Latest news with #OctoFinissimoUltraTourbillon
CNA
01-05-2025
- Entertainment
- CNA
Making history: These 5 timepieces set world records at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025
Records are meant to be broken and nowhere was that spirit more alive than at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025. While every maison brought its A-game, five timepieces stood out not just for their beauty or craftsmanship, but for pushing the boundaries of what's physically and technically possible in modern horology. Vacheron Constantin unveiled the world's most complicated wristwatch boasting 41 complications. Bvlgari reaffirmed its dominance in ultra-thin watchmaking with its 10th world record – the slimmest tourbillon ever made. Ulysse Nardin introduced the lightest mechanical dive watch in the world that weighs less than a tennis ball. Elsewhere, Parmigiani Fleurier made material history with the first watch to be rendered in the avant-garde alloy Cermet. And from Japan, Grand Seiko debuted what may be the most accurate mainspring-powered wristwatch ever, with an astonishing deviation of just ±20 seconds a year. Here are the five record-setting creations that are redefining the frontiers of the watchmaking world today. BVLGARI With the new Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, Bvlgari writes the 10th chapter in its record-breaking saga of ultra-thin marvels. Measuring a mere 1.85mm thin, the watch sets the world record for the thinnest tourbillon ever made. This 20-piece limited edition builds on the legacy of the Octo Finissimo line, which has consistently pushed horological boundaries for over 10 years – from the 1.95mm-thick tourbillon (2014) to the minute repeater (2016), tourbillon chronograph (2020), perpetual calendar (2021), and COSC-certified chronometer in 2024. Yet, this latest marvel is more than a numbers game; it's an extraordinary feat of modern engineering that carries with it a price tag of over S$1.1m. To achieve such radically thin proportions, Bvlgari had to completely rethink conventional watchmaking principles. Boasting a 42-hour power reserve, the BVF 900 calibre is integrated directly into the tungsten carbide caseback, which doubles up as the mainplate. This ultra-dense, highly rigid material is essential in supporting the delicate architecture of components packed into a movement just 1.5mm high. Central to this achievement is the flying tourbillon. Skeletonised and positioned for maximum visibility, it's driven by a patented differential gear system that separates winding and time-setting across two steel planar crowns at 3 and 8 o'clock. These innovations eliminate the need for vertical crown components and shave precious millimetres off the overall thickness. Aesthetically, the 40mm case stays true to the Octo Finissimo's signature monochromatic grey palette and distinctive geometric silhouette. A microbead-blasted titanium bezel, case middle, and lugs accentuate the geometric profile, while a circular-grained steel ratchet engraved with geometric motifs adds visual intrigue and depth. An integrated microbead-frosted titanium bracelet – just 1.5mm thick, including the clasp – seamlessly completes this masterpiece. GRAND SEIKO As watchmakers tirelessly pursue ever-greater precision, Grand Seiko quietly raises the bar with the Spring Drive U.F.A. (Ultra Fine Accuracy). According to the Japanese manufacture's own research, this could be the most accurate wristwatch movement powered by a mainspring today. Unveiled as part of the Evolution 9 Collection, the new calibre 9RB2 boasts an extraordinary annual rate of ±20 seconds accuracy. To put that into perspective, that's 20 seconds out of over 31 million seconds in a year. To achieve this milestone, the movement relies on a specially aged quartz oscillator and newly designed IC (integrated circuit), a critical component that regulates the movement's speed with high precision. Both are vacuum-sealed to minimise environmental disturbances like temperature shifts and static electricity. Thermo-compensation is calculated precisely for each oscillator, ensuring consistently reliable timekeeping. And for the first time in a Spring Drive movement, a regulation switch allows for accuracy corrections during after-sales servicing. Two ultra-refined 37mm models showcase this innovation: The High-Intensity Titanium (SLGB003) and 80-piece platinum boutique exclusive (SLGB001). Rendered in pale blue hues that vary in tone and depth, their dials reflect the frost-covered trees of the Kirigamine Highlands east of the Shinshu Watch Studio, where all Grand Seiko Spring Drives are produced. The titanium version features a silver-tinged blue dial and tempered blue seconds hand, evoking ice forests under crisp skies. The platinum edition's deeper blue dial offers a refined contrast to the smooth sweep of a silver-toned seconds hand. The Calibre 9RB2 is revealed in all its glory through a sapphire crystal caseback. Its bevelled, mirror-polished edges shimmer like frost, while the jewels gleam like stars in a Shinshu winter sky. Every surface reflects the seasonal beauty surrounding the watch's birthplace. Practicality is matched by comfort: The titanium model includes a newly developed three-step micro-adjustment clasp, operable without tools, for precise 2mm tweaks, while the platinum version is paired with a crocodile strap for classic elegance. PARMIGIANI FLEURIER The high-end Swiss watchmaker breaks new ground in luxury sports watchmaking with the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Ultra-Cermet, the world's first timepiece crafted entirely from Cermet. Known for its exceptional hardness, scratch resistance, and lightweight qualities, the cutting-edge alloy – a high-tech fusion of ceramic and titanium – has previously been reserved for aerospace and engineering applications. The Cermet used here undergoes an extreme selection of fine powders and boasts a unique cool-to-the-touch sensation, which introduces a new sensory dimension to high-end horology. A total of 72 components – from the case, fluted bezel, crown and pushers to even the pin buckle – are fashioned from this material that took three years to perfect. The dial is coated in Blackor, a 9k gold-nickel alloy that lends it a distinctive grey-black hue, which beautifully enhances the timepiece's metallic sophistication. Offered in two 42.5mm references of Milano Blue and London Grey, both chronographs feature matching subdials and textured rubber straps for a chic look. Powering the watch is Parmigiani Fleurier's COSC-certified PF070 integrated chronograph movement with a 65-hour power reserve. Adding to the technical allure are satin-finished openworked bridges, as well as a polished and sandblasted 22k rose gold rotor that are visible through the sapphire caseback. ULYSSE NARDIN The dive watch has long been the workhorse of the horological world, typically defined by its substantial heft, rugged construction, and commanding wrist presence. It's a formula that has remained largely unchanged since the 1950s – until now. Enter Ulysse Nardin, which has achieved the seemingly impossible with its game-changing Diver [AIR]. Weighing only 52g with its strap – and under 46g without – it holds the title of the world's lightest mechanical dive watch. Yet, in true Ulysse Nardin fashion, this radical lightness doesn't sacrifice its serious underwater credentials. With a 44mm case water resistant up to 200m, a movement capable of withstanding shocks up to 5,000G, and an impressive 90-hour power reserve, the Diver [AIR] delivers professional-grade specs in a watch that weighs less than a tennis ball. The secret lies in its skeletonised UN-374 manufacture calibre, which comprises 20 per cent material and 80 per cent air. When Ulysse Nardin designers removed material from the movement, they counterintuitively made it even stronger and more robust. This ingenious move was done by using the slender bridges to form triangles, a rigid shape often used in engineering and architecture to resist bending and warping. The bridges and other movement components are rendered in lightweight titanium that's 90 per cent recycled, while the escapement features an ultra-light, upcycled silicon wafer that further reduces weight while ensuring precision. The technological breakthroughs extend throughout the watch's construction. The modular case construction combines a water-resistant, recycled titanium core with sides made from Nylo-Foil, a hybrid material incorporating repurposed fishing nets and carbon fibre salvaged from IMOCA racing yachts. Even the CarbonFoil bezel insert features 100 per cent upcycled carbon fibres from IMOCA boats that are chopped and compressed into a distinctive marbled pattern. Despite all its technological innovation, the Diver [AIR] still feels like a proper tool watch on the wrist. The bezel rotates with satisfying clicks, while the lume is as bold as any traditional diver's watch. A final flourish: Two interchangeable straps (in orange and white) ensure versatility in any environment. VACHERON CONSTANTIN Vacheron Constantin once again defies the limits of haute horlogerie with the Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – La Premiere, a fitting tribute to the Swiss watchmaker's 270th anniversary. Housing an unprecedented 41 complications, this one-of-a-kind masterpiece is the result of eight years of dedicated research, development, and innovation. At the heart of the mechanical symphony beats the all-new Calibre 3655, a movement composed of 1,521 painstakingly miniaturised components, all housed within a 45mm white gold case that's 14.99mm thick. This double-sided marvel breaks new ground not only in mechanical sophistication, but also in terms of precision miniaturisation, pushing the limits of how much complexity can be achieved in a wearable watch. Its compact dimensions belie an intricate architecture achieved through revolutionary engineering techniques – most notably, an innovative plug-and-play modular system that neatly connects two intricately designed sections: A base calibre that integrates the time, chronograph, and chiming functions, and an additional module housing its rare astronomical displays. The Solaria occupies a special place in horology, notably for its five innovative astronomical complications, four of which are dedicated to tracking the Sun's position across the sky, including its altitude, culmination point, and angle of declination. A fifth complication marries a split-seconds chronograph with a representation of the celestial vault that enables the wearer to calculate precisely the length of time it will take for a selected star to reach the centre of his viewpoint. A previously unattained feat in mechanical watchmaking, it makes its world premiere on the Solaria. It's significant to note that these functions have never been featured on a single wristwatch. Equally remarkable is the watch's innovative chiming mechanism, a Westminster carillon minute repeater, widely regarded as the most sophisticated chime sequence in watchmaking. Featuring four gongs and four hammers, this acoustic complication alone demanded seven of the 13 patent applications filed for this timepiece. The challenge was integrating the mechanism into a dense movement without compromising resonance and clarity. Vacheron Constantin engineers developed rectangular-section gongs anchored directly to the case, complemented by steel and gold hammers to maximise acoustic purity. Despite its encyclopaedic complication count, the Solaria remains highly legible. Its front dial features four counters, two of which carry up to five functions each, arranged for clarity with a contrast-enhancing palette of black, white, and grey. The reverse side, which is dominated by the star chart and split-seconds chronograph, maintains visual balance through the thoughtful use of colour-coded indicators, notably red and green chronograph hands and a fuel gauge–style power reserve indicator. The sheer technical complexity of Solaria's Calibre 3655 is matched by its unparalleled finishing. Components are hand-decorated with no fewer than nine haute horlogerie techniques, including sunray brushing, circling, sandblasting, and brouillage. Even the smallest parts, such as the jewel sinks, barrel ratchets, and cam wheels, are finely polished.
Forbes
09-04-2025
- Business
- Forbes
Watches And Wonders 2025: How To Fight A Recession
The Van Cleef & Arpels's "Eveil du Cyclamène" is a masterpiece of horologery, high jewellery and functionality. Stéphane JG Girod The Swiss Watch industry which just gathered at its latest annual Watches and Wonders in Geneva, is in recession. Last year, exports fell by 2.8% compared to 2023, Luxury Tribune reported, which means that for many brands, including the most prestigious ones, the contraction was more severe. The pending tariffs just announced by Donald Trump, up to 31% on Swiss goods, threaten to make 2025 even more challenging, not only for direct U.S. sales but also through the wider global downturn they may trigger. So, for brands showcasing at the world's premier professional watch fair — also open to the public for its final days —, the stakes were high: how do you please collectors, entice a large majority of customers to buy perhaps a second watch, and win over first-time buyers? And the real question in everybody's mind, including at LVMH which just appointed one of its veterans to run its Watches Division, an indication of tougher times, will there be enough space for all these brands going forward? Insiders told me at the fair that consolidation is inevitable. Is the industry rising to the occasion? Not quite. Of course, the event was a feast for the senses — beauty, sophistication and unparalleled technical prowess were on display everywhere, and this is why Watches and Wonders is truly impressive. Take Vacheron Constantin's Les Cabinotiers Solara Ultra Grand Complication, which broke a world record, with its 41 complications helping its owner to track celestial objects. This single-piece edition, subject of 13 patent applications and the result of eight years of development, was already sold. It incorporated five astronomical functions never previously combined in watchmaking. Bulgari's Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, meanwhile, is also worth mentioning. Continuing to push the boundaries of ultra-thin, it is the worlds' thinnest tourbillon ever with its 1.85-millimeter thickness. This brilliance might explain why Ben Clymer posted on LinkedIn that Hodinkee's pre-fair posts and contents got 12 million views. However, most brands remain fixated on the past, leaning heavily on product-centric innovation. In times of uncertainty, nostalgia seems to be the fallback. The elegance of the gold Jaeger Le Coultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds with a Milanese link bracelet. Stéphane JG Girod Just look at Jaeger Le Coultre, whose display was, by and large, reinterpretations of the iconic Reverso, a watch invented in the 1930s, in various forms and shapes. At Cartier, the star launch was the 'Tank à Guichets,' originally designed for Duke Ellington in 1928. Hermès Horloger reintroduced its Time Suspended model from 2011, with CEO Laurent Dordet explaining the move as going 'back to the roots.' Even Rolex's first new family in over a decade, the Oyster Perpetual Land Dweller, is a reminiscence of the Oysterquartz of 1977, explained Kristian Haagen, founder of TimeGeeks. Why conservatism is an issue these days? The larger customer segment is composed of people who own one or two watches. Enticing them to buy more is therefore critical if the industry wants to continue to thrive. Thus, one might need to do more than bringing things they have already seen. Another very large segment is the first timers. At current entry price points, who will buy the 2025 marvels in today's market conditions? Reassuringly, some brands are starting to do more —and differently to be in tune with the times. Back during the COVID-19 crisis, I wrote that independent brands were poised to be the next big thing. I continue to think so for three reasons. The latest Deloitte Swiss Watch Industry Insights 2024, also notes that independents, just like the second hand market, are where the buzz is. First, their watches are rarer, and, by definition, they are closer to what true luxury is. As I wrote late last year big brands have over-stretched: they are too much present, everywhere, all the time, causing potentially saturation and commoditization. Second, independent break the mold. Take Trilobe, founded in Paris in 2018. It' s radically new watch concept flips tradition, letting the dials turn, as opposed to having the hands turn to indicate seconds, minutes and hours, as conventional watches do. It's not just technologically innovative, it's also elegant and funky. Brands like Gerald Charles, with their Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary, Louis Moinet with their Time to Race model, and Norqain all offer a welcome and refreshing boom of colors. In terms of colors, Hublot, a division of LVMH, also stands out, thanks to its patented mastery of coloured ceramic watches. The third differentiator for independents is that some are starting to innovate beyond the product itself, creating emotional resonance and added functionality. Cross X Studio, for instance, blends cutting edge mechanics with storytelling and artful packaging. This Swiss brand's collection thrives thanks to its floating tourbillon, which as my AI assistant describes it, is 'a complex, rotating escapement designed to minimize the effects of gravity on a watch's accuracy, that is mounted in a way that it appears to be suspended or floating above the movement, offering a unique perspective on its mechanics.' More importantly, through collaborations, it has started to design packaging as pieces of art. For example, the Kross Studio's Bat-Signal lamp illuminates, further immersing the collector into the universe of Gotham City and also conceals a dedicated space on his backside to safely store The Batman tourbillon or any other watch. Thinking innovation as an ecosystem, rather than just product, can be something tempting to attract new customers. Formula 1 was all the craze on the Tag Heuer booth in Geneva. Stéphane JG Girod In times of flux and structural change, grounding one's brand in consumers' and distributors' minds clearly and with consistency is crucial, although that should not be an excuse for focusing mostly on heritage-based innovation. Tag Heuer exemplifies this balance under the leadership of new CEO Antoine Pin. Known for its deep ties to motorsport, the brand has sharpened its positioning around performance and competitiveness with its new 'Designed to Win' strategy. Rejoining Formula 1 as its official timekeeper in 2025 is part of this version —but the message is broader: the brand is for those who push limits of high performance, competitiveness and accomplishment, in sports or life. In tougher economic times when one might have to fight harder, this could be smart as it will give a strong purpose to buy its products. No surprise then that Tag Heuer's booth was focused on F1, including a digitally enhanced F1 driving simulator. The brand's booth was the one that stood out the most; it was also one of the busiest and buzziest. The Trilobe "Temps Retrouvé" time sculpture is a one of a kind. Trilobe Being resilient also means finding new ways to be relevant for consumers who might have an abundant watch collection and might be, , much more difficult to tempt with new ones. Extending time pieces to the world of art clocks could be valuable, even if it is something brands have considered as secondary. Cartier, with its rock crystal table clocks and Jaeger le Coultre with Atmos were pioneers. At Watches and Wonders this year, two brands stood out. Van Cleef & Arpels and Trilobe. For the former, the Planetarium and the unique piece 'Eveil du Cyclamen' automaton were particularly striking. This treasure of horologery, jewellery and decorative art design is made of rose gold, yellow gold, white gold, emeralds, pink saphire, green aventurine, purple jade, lapis lazuli, diamonds, plique-à-jour enamel , lacquer, ebony, aluminium, steel and leather. The object contains a manual mechanical movement and can be fitted, on demand, with a carillon. In both pieces, different parts move. Trilobe on the other hand economized on jewels to focus on aesthetics and the movement for its 'Le Temps Retrouvé' sculpture, inspired by a Roman classical bust. The male bust is made of Carrara marble ceramic palladium-plated inside to reflect the movement when the two parts of the bust is open, and the movement is fully on display. The time is shown by opening petals on the two sides. The eyes form a second movement to give the minutes. The third movement is the respiration and only works when the bust is fully closed. This 'breathing mechanism' diffuses the perfume of your choice. In total, Trilobe used 2050 pieces and 3,000 hours of work to produce this piece of contemporary art. The captivating digital storytelling stand of Cartier mirror the design of the newly-launched "Tank à Guichets". Stéphane JG Girod The secondary market is booming. It's composed of three segments: vintage watches that pre-date 1990, neo-vintage (1991- 2004 period) and modern watches starting from 2005. According to the Deloitte study, in 10 years, the pre-owned market could be as big as the primary market thanks to the progress made by parties as regards certification (serviced and warrantied often with a digital passport attached) to build customers' trust. In tougher economic times, watch brands see the second-hand market as a new business opportunity to satisfy price points they have deserted (most buyers do so for cheaper prices and discounted opportunities), to attract and convert the Gen Z, and even to establish closer relationships with collectors and special customers. Most of the leading brands have launched their pre-owned certified program. At Watches and Wonders, David Jones - Chief Client & Digital Officer at Vacheron Constantin, explained that another motivation for entering this market was to create a better experience for customers to protect the luxury positioning, which is far from the case with lots of traders and digital platforms. At Vacheron Constantin, a world within a world (one of the window displays). Stéphane JG Girod To celebrate its 270th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin chose to display in its booth a series of their own collection models that were never shown before. The brand has started to buy back a lot of very rare watches to restore and resell them to some of their very close customers, the collectors (something that Zenith also initiated a few years ago). It's a personalized new business for this customer segment. Different actors occupy the market with different positioning. For example, Sotheby's sells pre-owned watches 'as-is' (i.e. without any kind of certification and repairs). Surprisingly, the auction house is emerging as a new channel by entering the retail space with both its online marketplace and through stores, Josh Pullan, Head of Sotheby's Global Luxury Division explained. The American Bezel, on the other hand, has built its leadership thanks largely to its effort to help the first timer find entry price products and then capture them to sell them much more expensive models. Citing Chrono24, a world leading watch market, Cartier had the largest neo-vintage revenue share of all brands with 37%, followed by Rolex and Omega (each 19%) and Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet (each at 16%). Why do consumers buy? Well behind pricing considerations, consumers are also interested in the immediate availability, on the back of the length of waiting lists, and even the opacity of star product allocations. In 2025 and 2026, this trend might decelerate, though, with a potentially looming recession that could further depress the demand for luxury watches. Sustainability reasons which have never accounted for much anyway among luxury buyers, has been in steady decline in this study. A lot of the clients buy both primary and secondary (collectors) or 20% are investors so for them, it is the resell opportunity. Watches & Wonders was reassuringly buzzy and busy. But as the industry is headed for tougher times, it must venture into bolder innovation territories. Luxury has risen to prominence thanks to remorseless future-looking innovation, never by recooking the creations of the past. For consumers who have seen and bought it all, this is the only path to continued relevance.
