02-08-2025
What to eat in a 19th century food market in Philadelphia
The first time I saw Philadelphia's Reading Terminal Market, it wasn't in person; it was on the TV series Cold Case. In one memorable episode, the detectives emerged from the market, cheesesteaks in hand, biting into the city's most iconic sandwich as they discussed clues and suspects. The scene and the cavernous market with neon signage stuck with me.
Years later, when I finally walked through Reading Terminal's historic iron-framed doors, it was exactly as I imagined: an aromatic, sensory overload of sizzling grills, baking bread, spiced stews, and rows of fresh produce.
But the historical market is much more than a culinary centre point. The crowded aisles and colourful counters are a showcase of the layered food story of Philadelphia.
More than cheesesteak
Philadelphia's culinary identity often begins with the cheesesteak: thinly sliced beef, sautéed onions, and a cascade of cheese (provolone, Cheez Whiz, or American, depending on your allegiance) tucked into an hoagie roll (type of bread roll). The loved dish often sparks best-of-all debates, with each Philadelphian defending their preferred vendor like a sports team.
But Philadelphia is also about roast pork sandwiches spiked with broccoli rabe (a green vegetable) and sharp provolone; its Nigerian jollof rice, Jewish deli classics, Korean barbecue tacos, and vegan soul food plates.
In a city shaped by waves of immigrants and working-class ambition, it's natural that cuisines are adapted and reimagined – and the Reading Terminal Market is where all flavours converge.
'The market was established in 1893 under the Reading Railroad terminal, and soon became a hub where farmers, butchers, and bakers sold their wares to the fast-growing industrial city," says Louisa Hernandez, at Old City Coffee where I choose a flat white and a batch of small batch, roasted on-site coffee to take home. 'Today, this is one of the oldest, continuously operating and diverse public markets in the US. You'll not see such variety anywhere else," she tells me.
I walk the aisles and realise the truth of her statement. Pennsylvania Dutch vendors sell apple dumplings and shoofly pie (made of molasses) next to halal butchers and Middle Eastern grocers. Cajun gumbo is being ladled out beside Thai papaya salad, and New England-style lobster rolls are available alongside Caribbean jerk chicken.
I stand in line Sweet T's Bakery, which opened in 2021 and made history as the market's first Black-owned bakery. Founded by Mark and Tia El, Sweet T's trains the spotlight on the humble sweet potato. 'We use Tia's grandmother's recipe, updated with a signature graham cracker crust, to make the pies. We also transform the tuber into mini pies, cheesecakes, pound cakes, and more," says Abiba Harris, as she packs boxes to go.
Not too far, Kamal's Middle Eastern Specialties has been dishing out family favourites since 1981. 'Our menu has everything from a quick shawarma lunch to a generous spread of mezze. People love our baba ghanoush, hummus, eggplant stew, Moroccan chicken, kibbeh, tabbouleh, and flaky spinach and feta pies," says Saami Ahmed, who's manning the till. 'So many people tell us the falafel and shawarma reminds them of home."
A space of shared stories
But Reading Terminal is more than a food hall; it's a marketplace anchored in memory and community. Many vendors are multigenerational family businesses; others are newcomers keen to live their dream. The blend of old-timers and first-timers creates a space where culinary traditions are honoured and experimented with.
As I walk around, I realise that in one lunch hour I could treat myself to a veritable variety: matzo ball soup, followed by a South Philly roast pork sandwich, a slice of Pennsylvania peach cobbler, and a cup of coffee.
At Beiler's Donuts, an Amish bakery that has been owned and operated by multiple generations of the same family and uses recipes that have been passed down for hundreds of years, I see people lined up.
'There are 50 different flavours which means that we can have one every day of the month and more," says Renee Campbell, a student buying a box to go. 'We have been eating these donuts since childhood," she reveals.
In a city where industrial decline led to numerous problems, places like Reading Terminal Market have offered continuity. They've also embraced change. The market has survived depressions, recessions, and even a brief closure in the 1970s. In recent years, it's weathered the challenges of COVID-19, adapting with online orders, contactless delivery, and expanded outdoor seating. But a walk through the aisles and a selfie with Philbert the Pig, a bronze statue created by sculptor Eric Berg and the mascot of the market, reveals that the spirit of the place is intact.
'Most people make plans to visit the many museums of Philadelphia. But I suggest they don't miss this market, a living, breathing space that offers a chance to savour the real Philly," Hernandez says.
Reading Terminal is the ubiquitous answer if you were to ask a Philadelphian for eating hotspots. Even today, it's where locals bring guests, where students gather for budget eats, and where families end up after weekend outings. It's also where you can uncover Philadelphia's culinary identity and its evolving, collaborative food culture shaped by centuries of migration and adaptation.
When I left Reading Terminal Market that day, laden down with a bag stuffed with berries, coffee, and cheesesteak (because, of course), I couldn't help but think back to that Cold Case scene. On TV, the market was a brief stopover in the search for answers. In real life, it felt like I'd found a small but delicious answer to the question of what makes Philadelphia tick.
Teja Lele writes on travel and lifestyle.
