Latest news with #Pachuco
Hypebeast
4 days ago
- Entertainment
- Hypebeast
Hypebeast Community Center：專訪墨西哥酷兒品牌 TANAMACHI
用電梯簡報形式向我們介紹 TANAMACHI。 TANAMACHI是來自墨西哥的酷兒品牌，靈感取材自 CDMX 日常生活中的善惡兩面。我們以本地 deadstock 布料打造易於穿著、無性別的服飾，讓衣服說故事 —— 說我們自己的故事。我們相信，時裝不只是一塊布，更是一種溝通與賦能的力量。 誰在買 TANAMACHI？ CDMX 那班最 in 的潮流頑童；懂的自然懂。 TANAMACHI 的核心訊息是什麼？ 一切關於「愛」與「可能性」：TANAMACHI 源於一對戀人 —— 負責創意的我（Toshiharu）與主理營運的 Mauricio。我們深信墨西哥毋須向外取經，也能講出自己的設計語言；在這片土地經營創意品牌，同樣可以闖出成績。 TANAMACHI 何時正式面世？ 首件縫上 TANAMACHI 標籤的作品誕生於 2018 年。起初我只做訂製西裝，直到疫情期間遇上 Mauricio；Mau 的商業腦把品牌帶向 ready-to-wear。 人們會在哪裡穿 TANAMACHI？ 任何場合！這正是我們單品的魅力 —— 真正實穿。由健身房、會議室、晚餐到夜蒲，都能自在又有型。 為何要創立 TANAMACHI？ 因為沒有人替我們把這段故事穿上身！再說，我對時裝的痴迷已無可救藥，想不到別的出路。 你的混血背景如何影響你的設計美學？ 這故事有點複雜。我的曾祖父母與祖父母為逃離二戰，從日本輾轉來到墨西哥。落腳沒多久，隨著戰事加劇，墨西哥政府將日、意、德裔移民拘禁長達 5 年。獲釋後，祖父母害怕再被標籤成日本人，於是告訴父親和一眾叔伯姑姨：「你們跟 taco 一樣地道墨西哥。」他們否認自己的血脈，只怕歷史重演。我和堂兄妹正在拼湊線索，重新連結祖源，但我想我終究還是更像墨西哥人。 在創立 TANAMACHI 之前，有哪些塑造你創意的啟蒙？ Stefani Joanne Angelina Germanotta（Lady Gaga）以及墨西哥流行文化：María Félix、Teresa Chávez、Thalía、Pedro Ramírez Vázquez，再到「Mexican Miracle」。 你的 Box 輪廓不斷出現在迷你短褲、長褲、裙裝等設計。為何拳擊成了品牌核心元素？ 我討厭運動，但熱愛復古運動裝。對於我這個同志又懶運動的人來說，一想到 Chilango 的運動就會浮現拳擊、lucha libre 和足球。傳統運動裝舒適卻欠美感，我們便想把兩邊優點結合 —— 既舒適又時髦。於是把拳擊腰帶元素放進任何下身款式，概念就此誕生。 可以多講講 CDMX 的創意圈嗎？ CDMX 一直都是創意熔爐，歷史離奇又悠長，任何事情都有可能發生。或許這裡就是真正的造夢工廠，而世人現在才開始注意。 在 CDMX，還有哪些品牌或設計師是你現在最愛的？ 這裡幾乎每種品味都找得到對應品牌，例如 Campillo、Cueva、Ppaayyss、ODIC、Barragán、Ditzy 等。 你與酷兒社群緊密相連 —— 這份身份如何影響品牌訊息與策略？ 在這個年代，毫無歉意地做自己、驕傲地 queer，本身就是力量。我們會一直在這裡。 為何決定在系列中全面使用 deadstock 布料？ 時裝是地球上最具污染性的行業之一；選用本地 deadstock 物料這個小舉動，也算為大局盡一分力。 使用 deadstock 設計時會遇到什麼挑戰？ 這確實是一把雙刃劍：每款只能做少量，利弊並存。設計時我們無法預先鎖定布料，因為不知道會淘到什麼。我們跑到 CDMX 市中心尋寶，也許能找到 10 米真絲，但下次就再也遇不到。 可以分享一下你們最新的 drop／系列嗎？ HOT PEOPLE FROM MY TEENS SS25是一封寫給 2000 年代末、在 CDMX 度過青春歲月的我們的情書，用漫畫式誇張去描繪那些早已成為回憶的典型角色：emo kid、Mirrey、Hi5 蛇蠍美人到 wannabe indie sleaze kid。系列歌頌那股「改變世界」的少年焦躁 —— 畢竟，有時感覺當年被承諾的未來根本沒有到來，甚至更糟。 歷來系列中，你最鍾愛哪件單品？ 首個系列的 Pachuco 西裝 —— 讓我們被市場看見；拳擊長褲 —— 它們幫我們交租；首場走秀的 quinceañera 拳擊裙 —— 最能濃縮我們的願景；還有 SS25 的銀色氣球裙 —— 可愛到瘋。 未來還想探索哪些主題或品類？ 我們想推出品牌首支標誌性香氛！我迷戀派對散場後香水混著煙味的氣息…… 又或者做鞋？我也想打造下一雙「it」級墨西哥鞋。 你怎樣看 chanclas／夾腳拖回歸成為潮流？ 此刻答題的我正穿著一雙可愛的皮涼鞋。終於，男人也肯 —— 字面意義上 —— 把腳趾塞進有趣的鞋子裡。不過如果你住在城市，回家洗腳可是必須。
Yahoo
21-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
How Willy Chavarria Is Redefining American Menswear Through Latinx Heritage
Craig Barritt/ Slaven Vlasic for The New School When Willy Chavarria's debut collection with adidas Originals was revealed earlier this month, fans were elated. In addition to having adoration for the designer who stands up for LGBTQIA+, immigrant, and human rights, his collaboration with the international sporting brand would elevate his storytelling to the larger market. Chavarria, a proud Mexican-American, infuses his cultural identity into all of his work and this latest project was a direct reflection of that connection. Previewed pieces from Willy Chavarría x Adidas Spring/Summer 25' had his signature black and red color palette with adidas' classic 3-striped sides. The collection also brings back to life the archival adidas Jabbar sneaker, created for Kareem Abdul Jabbar, one of the most celebrated basketball players of all time. The collection appeals to streetwear lovers but also shows Chavarria's extensive knowledge of Chicano history and visibility in fashion. The same could be said for when he showed up the 2025 Met Gala, themed after Black dandies. Maluma and Chavarria came to the event together wearing custom suits from Chavarria with shoes from Portuguese designer Carlos Santos. Chavarria, whose father is Mexican, referenced the Pachuco style of the 1930s for the vibrant suits. Pachucos and Pachucas were a subset of Mexican Americans who, in an attempt to defy xenophobic attacks on their community, wore their own versions of Zoot suits. 'The Pachuco, as we know, is the quintessential dandy from the 30s and 40s representing Latinos and Black (people) who dressed as a form of resistance to the beauty,' Chavarría told WWD, "I hope to encapsulate that.' Beyond the Met, Chavarria is a genius when it comes to cultural symbolism. His Chicano heritage shows up in his prints, silhouettes, casting, and runway music. He's shifting the conversations around luxury fashion inclusion in every garment he makes. He's intentional about the artists he works with like Kendrick Lamar, YG, Tokischa, and Becky G. And he's outwardly promoting credit being given where its due. Last night, the designer was honored at the 76th Annual Parsons Benefit. Chavarria accepted his award from Executive Deputy Director of the ACLU, AJ Hikes, who made a moving speech on the importance of diversity and inclusion. But before he took to the stage, he shared what he wished more people knew about his Chicano history. 'It really started [with] the Pachuco suit in the thirties and forties, which was, as we know, outlawed; Brown people could not wear the suit,' Chavarria says. 'But that evolved into a baggy look, which went from Pachuco into more modern age Cholo, which were gang related. And the gang relations were actually a way to claim territory that had been robbed. And unfortunately, it turned into drugs and violence, but that's the way the world built us." Adding, 'That influence in fashion, baggy clothes, has stayed around. It went from the Mexican influence to the skate culture, which immediately took that and profited off it. And we got all those brands that went to town with the baggy [clothing]. And now we see baggy everywhere. We see major luxury brands claiming it.' Every so often, the fashion industry gets a disruptor who challenges the status quo and creates a seat at the table for those left out. Chavarria's work is not only inspiring, it's paving a path for designers to be authentic about who they are. Originally Appeared on Teen Vogue
