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Boston Globe
a day ago
- Boston Globe
We ate our way through Lima, from street food to the world's best restaurants
We met Blanca Silva, a local resident and food guide, at the San Isidro Market, a bright and clean market filled with vendors offering local organic fruits and vegetables, as well as fish, meat, eggs, dairy products, and more. It's one of many markets in the city. There are 43 neighborhoods in Lima, and most have their own mercado. Get Winter Soup Club A six-week series featuring soup recipes and cozy vibes, plus side dishes and toppings, to get us all through the winter. Enter Email Sign Up 'Look at this!' Silva exclaimed with a sweep of her hand, pointing out stalls chock-full of mangos, avocados, bananas, berries, and more. 'From the Amazon and the Andes,' she said. We tasted a sweet and creamy lucuma fruit, called the Gold of the Andes, and often used to make ice cream. Next, we tasted a small glossy orange-colored cocona, dubbed the Tomato of the Amazon. It was tart and earthy. There were piles of peppers, corn, mangoes, avocados, and several types of berries. We tried an intensely sour limon, used in Peru's famous pisco sour drink, and maracuya used in juices and dessert. There were hanging racks and stacks of different kinds of bananas, and mounds of potatoes. Advertisement Peru has more than 4,000 types of potatoes. Pamela Wright 'We have more than 4,000 types of potatoes,' Silva said. 4,000! She pointed out the oblong-shaped bullhorn potato grown on high-altitude farms at 3,800 meters elevation, and tubers, like the oca, used for chips, and the mashua tuber, often used to aid in digestion. Peru, Silva said as we walked through the market, has 52 varieties of corn, about 350 varieties of chili peppers, and more than 600 varieties of native and continental fruits (though many are not commercially available). 'The Amazonian rivers, the Andes lakes and lagoons, and of course the Pacific Ocean also provide an overwhelming number of water species, more than 2,000,' she said. We checked out poultry, meat, egg, cheeses, and other local products, before heading into the bright Peruvian sunshine. The homemade sandwich de Chicharron, made of pork belly and served with homemade bread and sweet potato slices, is popular for breakfast in Lima. Pamela Wright 'Everybody knows this place. They don't advertise, but everyone talks about it, so we know,' said Silva. We were at El Chinito, a tiny spot, with a line outside the door. Known as huariques, these are small, family-run places found all over Lima, serving traditional Peruvian cuisine. According to the locals we met (including Silva), El Chinito is one of the best, known for its homemade sandwich de Chicharron, which Peruvians often eat for breakfast. It was 10 a.m., the perfect time for a fried pork belly sandwich! We grabbed a seat and minutes later were served fresh bread and a heap of crispy fried pork belly, with a side of cooked sweet potato slices. We made our own sandwiches, dressed with salsa criolla, a traditional Peruvian red onion salsa. Our other favorite huariques included La Lucha Sangucheria Criolla, which was much larger and more modern but good, and Kio's Chicharroneria, another small neighborhood joint serving an excellent pork sandwich. Advertisement The famous Isolina restaurant, named one of Latin America's 50 Best Restaurants, is known for its traditional Peruvian cuisine, like the massive, gooey stuffed pepper pictured here. Pamela Wright We were in Miraflores, one of Lima's most popular and upscale districts, known for its beaches, parks and shopping. We strolled through Parque Kennedy, nicknamed the 'cat park' for its dozens of well cared for street cats that live there, and bought picarones from a food cart. These Peruvian donuts made with sweet potato and squash, drizzled with chancaca syrup. Another day, we'd trek over to Dulces Limenos Anita, one of the best places for homemade picarones, arroz con leche (rice pudding) and mazamorra morada, a purple corn pudding. We strolled a section of the Malecon near the cliff of Lima, watching the surfers below and the paragliders above, and stopping at the Parque del Amor, famous for its large statue of a man and woman kissing. Along the way, we drank slushy cremoladas, made with fresh fruit. You'll need help eating this giant osso buco served at the famous Isolina restaurant in Lima. Pamela Wright After a few hours of exploring, we'd worked up just enough of an appetite for lunch at the famous Isolina restaurant, named one of Latin America's 50 Best Restaurants. Located in a historical mansion, the well-loved restaurant is known for its old-fashioned, authentic Peruvian dishes, once written in notebooks and handed down for generations. Dishes — including plenty of offal specialties — are served family-style in large portions. There was a group of us, and we shared cau cau, a traditional tripe stew, chaufa with lomo topped with fried eggs and bananas, a hot ceviche of boiled and fried duck with onions and pepper, a large rocoto relleno, tacu tacu, a large, richly flavored beans and rice patty, and the biggest serving of osso buco we've ever seen. We enjoyed purple corn pudding for dessert. Advertisement San Isidro Market, a bright and clean market filled with vendors offering local organic fruits and vegetables, as well as fish, meat, eggs, dairy products, and more. It's one of many markets in Lima. Pamela Wright We tried to get into dinner that evening at Maido, named one of the Top 50 Restaurants in the World. Maido specializes in Nikkei dishes, a fusion of Japanese and Peruvian cuisines. There are several Nikkei restaurants in Lima, as well as Chifa restaurants, a blend of Chinese and Peruvian cuisines. Maido was full, but we did get into Shizen, also a World's Best lister, serving Nikkei dishes. The space is contemporary, the food fabulous. We dined on robata Penshell, a slow-grilled mollusk with algae butter, dashi, and Peruvian chili kimchi; tusan maki with fried shrimp, torched with oyster sauce; and amai maki, with crabmeat, fried fish, and avocado torched with spicy garlic and eel sauce. We planned our next two days around food, according to advice from locals and Silva's best hit list. We had churros at Manolo, butifarra, a Peruvian ham sandwich with salsa ciolla, at San Antonio, and anticuchos, skewers of grilled beef heart, at Grimanesa Vargas. We dined on Amazonian dishes — like tacacho con Cecina, mashed plaintain balls, seasoned with pork rind and lard serviced with dried smoked pork — at the colorful Huambra restaurant. 'Did you try cuy?' our Peruvian friends asked, when we were saying our goodbyes. Well, no. We had them as pets growing up. Fluffy and Piglet. We just couldn't. Advertisement The historic Country Club Lima Hotel is an elegant and stately 1927 Spanish Colonial-style mansion in Lima's upscale San Isidro neighborhood. Pamela Wright If you go . . . Lima is a large city, covering more than 1,000 square miles in the metropolitan area, with 43 neighborhoods. Miraflores is Lima's most popular tourist neighborhood; we decided to stay in the quieter San Isidro neighborhood at the historic Other things to see and do include the Larco Museum, with an impressive collection of pre-Colombian art and artifacts, the Basillica de San Francisco and its underground catacombs, which served as the city's cemetery during colonial times, and Plaza Mayor, the public square in the city's historic center. For more information, visit Diane Bair and Pamela Wright can be reached at
Boston Globe
07-08-2025
- Lifestyle
- Boston Globe
A girlfriends' getaway to the best wine region you've never heard of
We took a girlfriend's trip to Get Starting Point A guide through the most important stories of the morning, delivered Monday through Friday. Enter Email Sign Up We checked into Advertisement Charles R Vineyards, located down a long, rural road, and tucked under a grove of massive oak trees has a lovely garden patio. Pamela Wright Advertisement 'Why can't we have a little bubbly every day to celebrate?' asked Kent as she poured glasses of her sparkling Gruner Veitliner. It was crisp and dry, and quite enjoyable. Yes, why not celebrate the day! The winery, stretching across 70 hillside acres is known for its hand-crafted, estate-grown wines. The setting is pretty, and the tasting room modern, showcasing Darcie's original artwork. There are also picnic areas, terraces, and the Highlands cannabis dispensary on the property, a bright shop with approachable staff, and a sunny outdoor deck. But we'd come for the wine. We sampled a Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, and a Cabernet Franc, while Kent and her daughter Amanda shared their history and passion for winemaking in Livermore. 'There's a real sense of community here, and a history of strong women in the valley, running businesses.' The Cheese Parlor in downtown Livermore is a sweet, little cheese shop, with a nice selection of artisanal cheeses and charcuterie. Pamela Wright Feeling a little lightheaded, and famished, we headed to the 'My parents had no background in winemaking. They had no idea what they were doing,' said Heather McGrail, president of McGrail Vineyards and Winery, our next stop on our DIY tour. The McGrail estate is also beautiful, a big yellow house surrounded by expansive green lawns, with cozy outdoor seating areas, stone terraces, and a stage for live music and special events. Advertisement McGrail explained that the family started making wine for fun. Lucky for them that they were friends with the Wente family, long-established and highly regarded winemakers (more on them later), who guided them. McGrail had moved away when her parents called her back home to run the winery. 'Everyone in the valley pitched in and helped me,' she said. 'I think that's what this region is about.' Today, they have 12 acres planted around the tasting room, and another 22 acres at their Lucky 8 vineyard. We tasted a lively, fragrant Sauvignon Blanc, a Cabernet Sauvignon, and an oak-y, creamy Chardonnay. 'Mom wanted a Chardonnay,' McGrail said. 'That's her style.' Heather McGrail, the president of McGrail Vineyards and Winery, proudly shows off one of their boutique wines. Pamela Wright That evening, we dined at the The next day, we headed to Advertisement We contemplated renting bikes from the local shop, Pedego, to explore nearby bike trails and tool around the countryside. Instead, we booked treatments at the Purple Orchid spa and hung around the pool and hot tub. We still had the two big Livermore wineries to visit: Advertisement It's a sprawling property with gardens, vineyards, a historic tasting room, wine caves, barrel room, and more. Wente showed us the oldest vines on the property, where they use falcons to chase away marauding, berry-eating birds. She led us to the wine cave, passing by the original barrel from the 1889 Paris Exposition, for a barrel tasting. 'Did you see this?!!' our friend Carroll shouted, as she waved a brochure in our faces. You Sip. We Ship. The brochure explained that if visitors stayed in a qualifying hotel (we did), they'd get reimbursed for shipping wine back home. Free shipping? 'How much time do we have before our plane takes off?' Carroll asked. Enough to select a few bottles to ship home. For more information, visit the Livermore Valley Wine Community,
Boston Globe
31-07-2025
- Climate
- Boston Globe
Looking to get outside this weekend? Here's your beach and mountain forecast around New England
Beaches On the southern coast of Cape Cod, Friday night rain is expected to clear up by Saturday, giving way to sunny skies with temperatures in the mid-70s for the rest of the weekend, according to the National Weather Service. In Nantucket, expect similar temperatures and similarly clear skies, with Friday night showers clearing up by Saturday morning, according to the National Weather Service. Nearer to the northern coast of Cape Cod, temperatures are expected to be in the high-70s all weekend, according to the National Weather Service. On the North Shore, temperatures are expected to be higher on Sunday, in the low-80s, according to the National Weather Service. Expect temperatures in the mid-70s on Saturday, with all rain clearing up by Friday night, according to the National Weather Service. New Hampshire beaches can expect sunny skies with temperatures in the mid-70s on Saturday and the low-80s on Sunday, according to the National Weather Service. Advertisement Rip tide risks are 'moderate' on Friday for many New England beaches, according to the National Weather Service. Results have not yet been released for the weekend. The appropriately named Mountain View Grand Resort & Spa has beautiful views White Mountains of New Hampshire. (Pamela Wright) Pamela Wright Mountains On New Hampshire's White Mountains, expect clear skies through the weekend, with Friday showers clearing up by Saturday morning, according to At ground level, temperatures will be in the low-60s, but nearer to the summit, temperatures will drop in the high-40s, according to Advertisement At Vermont's Green Mountains, expect similarly clear skies through the weekend, with no showers predicted for Friday. Temperatures are more temperate, with mid-60s expected at ground level, and low-50s nearer to the summit, according to Seas Ally Cat, the 34-foot boat the Wards sailed from Massachusetts to Grenada. Courtesy of Kimberly Ward Boaters in coastal waters off of Massachusetts and Rhode Island should expect 'sprawling' high pressure winds this weekend, with winds beginning to slacken Saturday afternoon, according to the National Weather Service. Truman Dickerson can be reached at
Boston Globe
12-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Boston Globe
Some other water park options in New England
Located in Saco, this is actually two parks; you can buy a combo ticket or waterpark only ($48 adults; $43 kids under 48' tall). This one has nine waterslides, including Amphitrite's Challenge, a 45-footer, a corkscrew, and a tube slide, plus a pirate-themed kiddie area with eight water slides and a wading pool. Massachusetts: Hurricane Harbor at Six Flags New England, Part of Six Flags New England in Agawam, Hurricane Harbor offers water slides, a 500,000-gallon wave pool, lazy rivers, a kids' lagoon, and a kiddie pirate ship-themed area. The Tornado (for big kids and adults) shoots you through a tunnel and a funnel — no lie — aboard a four-person raft. From $35 (online); $49 on weekends. Get Starting Point A guide through the most important stories of the morning, delivered Monday through Friday. Enter Email Sign Up Advertisement Wicked Waves Cape Cod, Opened in 2024 alongside Cape Cod Inflatable Park in West Yarmouth, Wicked Waves is a watery wonderland of water slides, a lazy river, a wave pool, a water coaster, and Devil's Drop, a trap-door slide that goes through an area of darkness. The Boomerang Slide gets you airborne. They've also got a Flow Rider (one of those surf-type pools), available for an extra fee. Pro tip: Arrive early on a weekend to snag parking. The Cape Cod Family Resort offers overnight packages. Day pass: From $48 (includes Inflatable Park.) New Hampshire: Kahuna Laguna, Advertisement Set in bustling North Conway, the state's largest indoor water park is a perfect rainy-day option, when you can't get your posse out on the hiking trails. Attractions include four high-speed tube slides, a three-story slide tower, a wave pool, water cannons, a tipping bucket, and a Little Kahuna play area. Unique elements here: a 25-person hot tub and water basketball. For stay-and-play packages, check out Birchmont Resort & Spa ( Diane Bair and Pamela Wright can be reached at
Boston Globe
30-05-2025
- Boston Globe
We avoided Atlantis for years. But with so many fans, what were we missing?
We know lots of friends, family, and acquaintances who have vacationed at the resort, returning with glowing reviews. So much to do! The kids are already asking to go back. Don't know why we didn't go sooner. Bucket list! Expensive, but worth it . Get Starting Point A guide through the most important stories of the morning, delivered Monday through Friday. Enter Email Sign Up The Mayan Temple has five slides, including the five-story corkscrew Serpent Slide, the Jungle Slide, through jungles and caves, and The Leap of Faith, with an almost 60-foot vertical drop into a clear tunnel submerged in a shark-filled lagoon. Pamela Wright Advertisement So, huh. Perhaps, it was time to lose our attitudes and check it out. We knew what we were getting into; this legendary resort is massive, spanning 151 acres with five separate lodging options, 20 swimming areas and 14 pools, more than 40 restaurants, bars, and lounges, a 141-acre waterpark, an 18-hole golf course, 5 miles of beaches, a world-class marina, full-service spa, and the world's largest open-air marine habitat. We were exhausted (and, OK, excited) just thinking about it. Caveat: We went in the fall, off-season, and the resort was blissfully uncrowded, but we've heard that it can get packed in high season, and lines and wait times can be long. Advertisement The seashell roof gazebo at Atlantis, Paradise Island Resort, keeps up with the resort's nautical, ocean theme. Pamela Wright Let me live that fantasy Your first decision is where to stay. Rooms and suites at The Royal Towers are most popular and have recently undergone major renovation (starting from $290). They're spacious, light and airy, with crisp nautical blue and white hues, and large modern bathrooms. It's the closest accommodation to the waterpark and home to the resort's casino, the Mandara Spa, seven restaurants, and several bars. Prefer a little less action? The Cove is arguably the most elegant place to stay, with 600 upscale suites, a quiet adults-only pool, 20 private cabanas, and a poolside lounge (starting from $430). It also had our favorite bar: The Sea Glass, with ocean views, an outdoor patio, and bartenders who know how to concoct and give hefty pours, albeit for a hefty price. (Our two martinis cost $45, including an automatically added 15 percent tip and 10 percent VAT.) Remember, another 25 percent is added to food and drinks! Harborside Resort, with one-, two-, and three-bedroom villas, located across from the marina, is a bit more secluded (starting from $270). It's a good choice if you don't plan on spending much time at the water park, or don't mind walking to the main attractions. (There's also an easy-to-use free shuttle bus that runs throughout the resort.) The Coral is popular with families and the resort's most economical place to stay, with a pool, lagoon with marine exhibits, theater, and casual restaurants (starting from $250). Here's where you can also snag one of the resort's recently opened Barbie rooms, decked out in hot pinks and themed décor. As a side note, Atlantis has gone all out with Barbie offerings, including special Barbie-themed dining events, Barbie pool cabanas, a Barbie-themed ice cream parlor, and the Barbie Boardwalk Adventure, a walk-through experience with a tattoo parlor, ball pit, bubble maze, and more. Advertisement We stayed at The Reef, a high-rise with studios and suites, with small kitchenettes or full kitchens (starting from $390). It's located next to the Cove and within easy walking distance of other attractions. We appreciated the facilities to prepare simple breakfasts, snacks, and beverages, which proved to be both convenient and money-saving. Pro tip: Make a quick shopping trip into Nassau for snacks and beverages, and you'll save a heap of money. Sea Glass Bar is a popular hangout for adults. Pamela Wright Living high on the hog There's no question about it, food and beverages are expensive, and one of the biggest complaints about the resort. But there are choices — 21 exactly — so if your food budget is a top concern, consider casual walk-up vendors, like Cascades (burger $12, pulled pork sandwich $16), Pita (falafel $12, chicken shawarma $19), Shark Bites (conch salad, crab cakes and chowder $18 each), and Shake Shack (cheeseburger $9.85). There are also several award-winning, fine dining establishments. And, what the heck? You're on vacation! There's internationally known Nobu by celebrated chef Nobu Matsuhisa, Silan by chef Alan Shaya, and Fieldtrip by chef JJ Johnson. We dined at Fish by Jose Andres, enjoying complimentary cheddar biscuits, an inventive shrimp mojo negro ($27), scorched conch with ghost peppers ($17), and striped bass ($59) and Caribbean grouper ($54) entrees. Another evening, we ate at chef Michael White's Italian restaurant, Paranza, dining on grilled octopus ($36), lamb ragu ($40), and a memorable seafood risotto ($46). If you're traveling with kids, we'd suggest the more casual, less expensive options. Maybe take the shuttle to Marina Pizza, where you can get takeout, sit at picnic tables, and ogle the mega-size luxury yachts docked at the marina. Advertisement There are artworks throughout Atlantis. Pamela Wright Water, water everywhere You could spend your days relaxing on the soft white sand beaches, lounging under the Bahamian sun, and swimming in the deep turquoise waters. But we didn't, and you probably won't either. Not when there's so much else to do. Top of the list is a visit to Aquaventure, the 141-acre, 20-million-gallon waterpark, with pools, rivers, and slides. Highlights include the 120-foot Power Tower with four slides; the Abyss, with a 50-foot plunge and a 200-foot-long body slide; the Surge with a drop through a cavern, and the infamous Mayan Temple, with five slides, including the five-story corkscrew Serpent Slide, the Jungle Slide, through jungles and caves, and the Leap of Faith, with an almost 60-foot vertical drop into a clear tunnel submerged in a shark-filled lagoon. Yes, you read that right. The Leap of Faith has an almost 60-foot vertical drop into a clear tunnel submerged in a shark-filled lagoon. GRAHAM DICKIE/NYT We opted for the Rapids River, a mile-long inner tube ride through waves and rapids and down drops, which was thrilling enough for us. Families with smaller kids congregate at Poseidon's Playzone, with slides, water cannons, fountains, buckets, bubbling jets, and a fort. There's water everywhere: pools, streams, waterfalls, lagoons, aquariums, and underwater tunnels filled with marine life. We appreciated the educational signage throughout the resort; just walking around was a feast for the eyes and mind. The dolphins at Dolphin Cay love to interact with trainers and guests. Pamela Wright Doing good Our favorite activity was a visit to Dolphin Cay, a 6-million-gallon open-air marine habitat, with pools, reefs, mangrove nurseries, lagoons, and sandy beaches. It opened in 2007, providing a safe and permanent home for dolphins and sea lions left stranded by Hurricane Katrina, and more than 30 other native species, including reef fish, sea stars, lobster, and conch. Dolphin Cay also serves as a marine rescue and rehabilitation center and has reintroduced more than 160 animals back to their natural habitats. Advertisement The dolphins looked exceptionally happy and healthy to us, and the trainers were passionate and caring. 'They're social animals, and we engage with them through play and positive interactions,' our trainer said during our Playtime with Dolphins experience. 'They don't do anything they don't want to.' You can sign up for a variety of Dolphin Cay activities, like snorkeling, kayaking, and paddleboarding with dolphins, swimming with sea lions and stingrays, and learning to be a vet for a day. Is it worth it? A mom and her young daughter dressed in identical Barbie outfits sat next to us at dinner on our last night at Atlantis. They were celebrating her 8th birthday, staying in one of the Barbie-themed rooms. They'd spent an afternoon at the waterpark, had play time with the dolphins, and were looking forward to a Barbie baking class the next day. 'She'll remember this trip forever,' her mom said, as she pulled a credit card out of her tiny pink Barbie clutch. 'I'll be paying for it forever, too,' she joked, 'but it's worth it.' 888-877-7525, Diane Bair and Pamela Wright can be reached at
