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The enduring legacy of Rolex's 70-year-old GMT-Master
The enduring legacy of Rolex's 70-year-old GMT-Master

South China Morning Post

time24-05-2025

  • South China Morning Post

The enduring legacy of Rolex's 70-year-old GMT-Master

Visitors to West Kowloon Cultural District's Freespace in Hong Kong between May 26 and June 8 can catch an exhibition on one of Rolex's most important models: the GMT-Master. The watch celebrates its 70th anniversary this year, an occasion that marks one of watchmaking's most elegant answers to the problem of tracking multiple time zones. The watch and its namesake GMT complication gain their name from the addition of an extra watch hand that tracks time on a 24-hour index. The GMT hand can be set to one's home time zone, or to Greenwich Mean Time – also referred to as UTC or Zulu Time. The Longines Zulu Time from the 1920s also allowed for multiple time zones, but the 24-hour index of these watches was located within the minute track rather than on a rotating outer bezel. Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition. Photo: Armin Strom The GMT complication was mainly seen on pilot's wrists in the mid-20th century – indeed, Rolex developed the GMT-Master together with the historic airline Pan American Airways. Today however, anyone who travels frequently might consider getting one. 'Nowadays, we are travelling on planes more than ever,' says Helbert Tsang, co-founder of watch community The Horology Club, 'and the GMT-Master still looks pretty much as it did when it was first launched in the 50s. What has changed since then is the reason people buy and wear watches. What used to be an essential tool (for fliers) is now a luxury item or a status symbol. People working in front of a screen all day may still imagine themselves as a globetrotter or a commercial pilot landing at different destinations every day, and a GMT watch is the perfect prop for them to live out that fantasy.' The GMT complication's history, combined with its surprisingly modern utility, has led to its consistent popularity. Unlike dive watches or chronographs – the functions of which have since been supplanted by computers – wearing a GMT watch means one can still use the complication to track time for loved ones in a different part of the world, or to recall important international meetings at a glance. Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante 2025. Photo: Handout Luxury brands now put design at the forefront of GMT watches to appeal to collectors. At Watches and Wonders in Geneva this year, manufacturers made their own efforts to show multiple time zones elegantly. Rolex interpreted their modern GMT-Master II with green Cerachrom and tiger iron dials. Panerai, Armin Strom and Parmigiani Fleurier chose to add additional complications with GMTs (respectively, perpetual calendar, simultaneous dual time display and rattrapante). Tag Heuer, known for its racing chronographs and divers, added a Twin-Time model, which tracks the second time zone along a two-coloured internal 24-hour index, to its Carrera pieces. Nomos Glashütte developed a new automatic movement and introduced a world time complication to their Club collection.•

The enduring legacy of Rolex's 70-year-old GMT-Master: it revolutionised time zone tracking and brands like Tudor and Panerai are adding extra complications with GMTs to appeal to collectors
The enduring legacy of Rolex's 70-year-old GMT-Master: it revolutionised time zone tracking and brands like Tudor and Panerai are adding extra complications with GMTs to appeal to collectors

South China Morning Post

time24-05-2025

  • South China Morning Post

The enduring legacy of Rolex's 70-year-old GMT-Master: it revolutionised time zone tracking and brands like Tudor and Panerai are adding extra complications with GMTs to appeal to collectors

Visitors to West Kowloon Cultural District's Freespace in Hong Kong between May 26 and June 8 can catch an exhibition on one of Rolex's most important models: the GMT-Master. The watch celebrates its 70th anniversary this year, an occasion that marks one of watchmaking's most elegant answers to the problem of tracking multiple time zones. The watch and its namesake GMT complication gain their name from the addition of an extra watch hand that tracks time on a 24-hour index. The GMT hand can be set to one's home time zone, or to Greenwich Mean Time – also referred to as UTC or Zulu Time. The Longines Zulu Time from the 1920s also allowed for multiple time zones, but the 24-hour index of these watches was located within the minute track rather than on a rotating outer bezel. Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition. Photo: Armin Strom Advertisement The GMT complication was mainly seen on pilot's wrists in the mid-20th century – indeed, Rolex developed the GMT-Master together with the historic airline Pan American Airways. Today however, anyone who travels frequently might consider getting one. 'Nowadays, we are travelling on planes more than ever,' says Helbert Tsang, co-founder of watch community The Horology Club, 'and the GMT-Master still looks pretty much as it did when it was first launched in the 50s. What has changed since then is the reason people buy and wear watches. What used to be an essential tool (for fliers) is now a luxury item or a status symbol. People working in front of a screen all day may still imagine themselves as a globetrotter or a commercial pilot landing at different destinations every day, and a GMT watch is the perfect prop for them to live out that fantasy.' The GMT complication's history, combined with its surprisingly modern utility, has led to its consistent popularity. Unlike dive watches or chronographs – the functions of which have since been supplanted by computers – wearing a GMT watch means one can still use the complication to track time for loved ones in a different part of the world, or to recall important international meetings at a glance. Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante 2025. Photo: Handout Luxury brands now put design at the forefront of GMT watches to appeal to collectors. At Watches and Wonders in Geneva this year, manufacturers made their own efforts to show multiple time zones elegantly. Rolex interpreted their modern GMT-Master II with green Cerachrom and tiger iron dials. Panerai, Armin Strom and Parmigiani Fleurier chose to add additional complications with GMTs (respectively, perpetual calendar, simultaneous dual time display and rattrapante). Tag Heuer, known for its racing chronographs and divers, added a Twin-Time model, which tracks the second time zone along a two-coloured internal 24-hour index, to its Carrera pieces. Nomos Glashütte developed a new automatic movement and introduced a world time complication to their Club collection.•

Eddie Marsan explains truth behind his 'Kentucky accent' in devastating BBC dram
Eddie Marsan explains truth behind his 'Kentucky accent' in devastating BBC dram

Metro

time18-05-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Metro

Eddie Marsan explains truth behind his 'Kentucky accent' in devastating BBC dram

Eddie Marsan has revealed the inspiration behind his Kentucky accent in the BBC's gripping drama about the Lockerbie disaster. On December 21, 1998, Pan American Airways flight 103 exploded over the small town of Lockerbie in south-west Scotland as it made its way from Frankfurt to Detroit via London Heathrow. All in all, 270 people – including 243 passengers, 16 crew members and 11 people on the ground – were killed as the plane fell from 30,000ft. Soon after, investigators discovered that the explosion was caused by a bomb, making it one of the deadliest attacks to ever hit the UK and, at the time, the largest crime scene in the world spanning 845 square miles. The horror of that crash and the efforts of individual law enforcement agencies to uncover what caused it is now the subject of a six-part drama on BBC One, called The Bombing of Pan Am 103, which stars Connor Swindells, Peter Mullan and Suits star Patrick J. Adams. Marsan, who plays real-life FBI explosives expert Tom Thurman, discussed his preparation for the role and what attracted him to the project. Speaking at the Curzon theatre in Soho after a screening of the BBC series, Marsan – who has played Amy Winehouse's father in last year's Back to Black – was adamant that this is not a story about 'one hero'. 'It's really not a story about just one hero, one lone person that solved all of this. It's about the work of a community. 'There's also a collective response to this trauma, that was one of the things that really interested me about this project. Touching upon the American accent he uses, Marsan added: 'Well, I didn't have any chance keep up with Peter Mullan doing a Scottish accent, so I thought I'd be the Kentucky detective with a twinkle in his eye. 'No, seriously, I hope I did the accent well. Really, it's like training to be a boxer. 'You do it for an hour or two, then you break and do it all again. The good thing was that I had my dialect coach with me on set, so it was easy really. I didn't have to think about it, I just did it and then she would tell me if I was doing anything wrong.' Following the release of Sky's Lockerbie: A Search For Truth, starring Colin Firth, which takes a look at the efforts of Dr. Jim Swire who searches for justice following the death of his daughter Flora, the new BBC series takes a different perspective on the crash. More Trending Written by Jonathan Lee and Gillian Roger Park, the series focuses on the never before seen efforts of US, British and Scottish law enforcement agencies working together to discover what happened. However, the story is one that continued to develop throughout the shooting of the series. In March it was revealed that the trial of Abu Agila Mas'ud Kheir Al-Marimi, known as Masud, who is accused of building the bomb that destroyed the plane will be postponed after it was originally planned for May 12. View More » The Bombing of Pan Am 103 airs on BBC One on Sunday May 18. Got a story? If you've got a celebrity story, video or pictures get in touch with the entertainment team by emailing us celebtips@ calling 020 3615 2145 or by visiting our Submit Stuff page – we'd love to hear from you. MORE: 'I'm 77 but Rose Ayling-Ellis' experiment has turned me into a big kid' MORE: Who came last in Eurovision 2025 as Austria secures victory for third time MORE: Graham Norton leaves Eurovision final viewers in stitches with 'brutal' Margaret Thatcher jibe

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