9 hours ago
The underrated Swiss lake town that's like Como without the crowds
On the northern shore of Lake Maggiore, where Italy rolls into Switzerland, life is beautiful. The skies are blue, the air is clean and the pace is so slow, it's practically horizontal.
A hidden jewel of this region is Ascona, a sun-kissed settlement of palms and piazzas, with a landscape every bit as breathtaking as it is in Como, its flashy Italian neighbour.
Nestled between alpine peaks and shimmering water, Switzerland's lowest lying town has winding cobbled streets, colourful lakeside cafés and a subtropical climate that gives it real Mediterranean flair.
But apart from a few linen-clad retirees, this pastel-hued enclave remains largely untapped by tourists. Even in high season, there's no fighting for sunbeds here.
Eight years ago, I spent a few months working in Lugano, a grandiose Swiss resort less than an hour from Ascona.
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On weekends, I explored many of the surrounding villages, but I never made it to the village known as the 'jewel of Lake Maggiore'. Neither, it seems, do the vast majority of tourists.
The town has no railway station, so anyone without a car arrives into neighbouring Locarno. From there, a bus or taxi will take you past golden fields to Ascona in less than 15 minutes.
When I visit in late May, I have no trouble getting a table at any of the waterfront restaurants. Ferries are only half full, and the pedestrianised promenade is quiet without being sleepy.
Glittering yachts bob on gentle waves and speedboats zip across the marina. It's elegant, alluring, and there's not a tour guide's umbrella in sight.
One hour south of the border in Como, the picture is different.
Over the past decade, the idyllic lake town has been engulfed by tourism. As many as 1.4 million visitors descend on its glitzy shores each year, and the overwhelming hordes have sparked calls for a Venice-style tourist tax.
It's difficult to put a figure on how many people visit Ascona each year, but estimates suggest it sees as little as 20,000 in the busiest summer period.
While Como is fighting tourism, Ascona is hungry for it.
Ascona is magnificent, but it's not cheap. An estimated 40 of the town's 5,000 residents are millionaires, and it has price tags to match.
A pint of local beer costs around £8, while a main course at a mid-range restaurant will set you back anywhere from £18 to £36 — before you've had a drink.
But, as the saying goes, here, the best things are free.
At least half a day should be devoted to exploring Ascona on foot, strolling the esplanade that hugs the lake and the hillside Old Town, which has both medieval and Renaissance history.
An artisan market runs daily in summer (free samples guaranteed), and narrow alleyways conceal glamorous boutiques that are great for window shopping.
For a budget-friendly treat, try the £5 cantucci (almond cookies) from Pasticceria Pinotti, or a scoop of sorbet from one of the quaint gelaterias.
On the edge of town is a lido and a free public beach, where families picnic and cool off in glacial water so pristine, you can see the minnows nipping at your toes.
The Ticino region is so genuinely breathtaking, you'll want to spend every waking minute outside, and the best views don't cost a penny.
Towering above Ascona is Monte Verità (the Hill of Truth), a spiritual refuge where hippies and alternative communities have flocked for decades. Just a 15-minute walk from the centre of town, it's an excellent perch to watch sunset over the lake.
Experienced hikers can climb the more challenging 6km trail to the prehistoric Castelliere ruins. The reward is a spectacular panorama that stretches as far as Italy.
Ascona may be small, but each summer, it's the unlikely home of one of the largest jazz festivals in Europe.
Now in its 40th year, Jazz Ascona celebrates all things New Orleans (Ascona's sister city). The festival runs from 26 June to 5 July, with over 200 free concerts of jazz, blues, swing and gospel injecting soul into the town. Hotel prices rocket in and around the event, so staying across the border in Italian resorts such as Verbania and Stresa is a good idea.
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Vista Lakefront Boutique is a budget hotel in a prime location. Set in the heart of the Old Town 30 metres from the lake, it has single rooms from £116 and doubles from £170, breakfast included.
Splash
A five-minute stroll along the water's edge from the Old Town is the ultra-luxurious Hotel Eden Roc.
Hidden behind sunshine-coloured walls and terracotta flower pots, it's the only five-star on the shore of Maggiore, and the location is only eclipsed by the impeccable service. Double rooms from £475, with a fabulous breakfast included.
One activity well worth paying for is a trip to the tiny Brissago Islands, home to a show-stopping botanical garden where 1,700 exotic species including lotus blossoms and even eucalyptus trees flourish.
In its heyday, the larger inhabited island, Isola Grande, attracted creatives from around the world, including legendary Irish writer, James Joyce.
After wandering the gardens, refuel with affogato or an Aperol Spritz on the terrace of the stately Villa Emden, before the boat takes you back to the mainland. The direct ferry takes 20 minutes and a round-trip costs around £20, plus £9 entry to the islands; I recommend spending at least three hours there.
If you're keen to go further, Switzerland's world-famous public transport system makes city-hopping a breeze.
Here, even the most remote villages are connected by a well-oiled network of buses, trains, boats and cable cars.
From Ascona, a 10-minute drive to Locarno opens a world of possibilities. This is where you'll find the start of the Centovalli Railway, a panoramic route through an unspoiled, verdant valley.
Trains run direct from Locarno to Lugano and Zurich, with stress-free connections to Geneva and Switzerland's federal city, Bern. For many of these routes, you don't even need to change platforms — simply hop off one train and wait for the next to roll up.
If you want to save money and nab a good seat, it's worth planning ahead. Fares booked in advance are considerably, and it always pays to book online through the SBB transport app rather than at the station. More Trending
The Swiss Travel Pass is pricey, but it's a good investment for anyone who plans to be on the move a lot. This gets you unlimited journeys on buses, trains and boats, plus free admission to more than 500 museums and some decent mountain excursions. The pass can be purchased for periods from three to 15 days, and the cheapest will set you back £220.
Getting to Ascona from the UK initially sounds daunting, but it's surprisingly straightforward.
The cheapest option is to fly to Italy into Milan Malpensa, which has direct routes from most of the UK's major airports (London Gatwick, Stansted and City, plus Manchester, Edinburgh and Birmingham).
From Malpensa Terminal 1, trains run hourly across the border to Lugano. Change here for the train to Locarno, which arrives on the same platform. You can reach Ascona in approximately 10 minutes by taxi.
Day 1
Explore the town, starting on the lakeside promenade. Markets are helddaily, with stalls selling everything from soap to handmade jewellery.
Catch the ferry to the Brissago Islands. Allow two hours to explore the gardens and refuel with pasta and an Aperol Spritz on the terrace at Villa Emden.
Swim and relax at the lido or on the public beach. For something swankier, pay to enter Crusoe, a private beach with boho sun loungers and hammocks.
Dinner at Restaurant Eden Roc, followed by a cocktail in the hotel piano bar where there is nightly live music in summer.
Day 2
Rent e-bikes and follow one of the many trails around the area. A good choice for beginners is the path to Locarno, Switzerland's 'film town'.
Stop for coffee at Muyu in Locarno, then head back for pastries at Pasticceria Pinotti in Ascona, known for its range of indulgent panettone.
Hike to the Castelliere Ruins for sunset. Moderate difficulty, a walk of just over four miles.
Dinner at Locanda Barbarossa at Hotel Castello del Sole, which recently received its first Michelin star.
End the night with a glass of wine at Sea Lounge in the Seven Hotel, right on the waterfront.
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