Latest news with #PatrickMcDowell
Telegraph
5 days ago
- Business
- Telegraph
Victoria Beckham has stolen Stella McCartney's fashion crown
When the Princess of Wales arrived at the industrial-chic surroundings of London's 180 Studios earlier this month to present a fashion design award to NEWGEN fashion designer Patrick McDowell, it felt rather like the passing of a baton. With the Queen Elizabeth II Award for Design – which recognises British designers who are leading the way in sustainable practices and making a positive impact on the environment – the Princess was promoting the future of luxury eco-conscious fashion. And what did she choose to wear to mark the occasion? Tailoring by Victoria Beckham. Catherine's appearance in her chic olive two-piece must have been a kick in the teeth for Stella McCartney, daughter of Sir Paul and the late Linda, whose label has been a bastion of not only British sustainable fashion but also a stalwart of Savile Row-style tailoring since the brand's inception in 2001. 'I'm sure it didn't go down well… That's a space that Stella really felt she owned,' says one source close to the brand. 'Her name's been a byword for sustainable luxury and British tailoring for more than two decades. But times have changed, what was her niche is now a crowded marketplace. The thing she was reliably known for, her tailoring, has gone off the boil with bizarre proportions and crazy shapes. When you've got the likes of Victoria Beckham, Gabriela Hearst and Phoebe Philo all inhabiting a similar space… You need to bring something really special.' Indeed, so far, 2025 has been something of an annus horribilis for brand Stella McCartney. In January, it was announced that minority shareholder Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy (LVMH, the biggest luxury conglomerate in the world, who also own Celine and Dior) were selling their 49 per cent stake in the business after five years. McCartney purchased the shares back for an undisclosed sum, making the house an independent entity once again. The separation marked the second time the Stella McCartney brand has been set adrift from a group – in 2018, the brand departed from the Kering stable (owners of Gucci, amongst others) after 17 years with the shares once again bought by McCartney herself. Moves like these leave McCartney wrestling with an upended supply chain, which needs to be rebuilt and higher costs, being that the brand no longer benefits from group discount rates on materials and services. Throw in Brexit and Covid, and it's easy to see why all's not well between the balance sheets either. Accounts filed in March (almost six months after the Companies House deadline) showed sales at the house fell by almost half in 2023. Turnover was slashed from £40 million to £21.9 million, and the brand's pre-tax loss went from £10 million to £25 million over the same period. In fact, Stella McCartney has not made a pre-tax profit since the £9 million it reported in 2017, instead accumulating a pre-tax loss of more than £143 million. Directors at the brand said this represented a 'material uncertainty that may cast significant doubt on the group's ability to continue as a going concern in the long term'. 'Sadly, since the pandemic, sustainability has taken a backseat to profits in the fashion business,' says Dana Thomas, author of Fashionopolis: The Price of Fast Fashion and the Future of Clothes and host of the pro-climate movement podcast The Green Dream. 'Maintaining your integrity can be costly – more costly than most C-suite executives and shareholders are willing to accommodate. It's a shame, because consumers… want to patronise brands with like-minded practices. Such brands are getting harder to find in the mainstream; start-ups are the core of the sustainable fashion movement now, and they are always financially precarious, because they are still so new and unproven, and many fail.' They say that bad news comes in threes, so perhaps, then, it's not surprising that earlier this month, news got out that the designer was leaving her beloved flagship store on Old Bond Street, nine years before the end of the lease. Stella McCartney moved into the Grade II-listed, 18th-century townhouse in June 2018 after spending four years overseeing its renovation. The opening night was a glitzy affair, with an interior decked out in designer furniture (including a £21,000 sofa) and the likes of Kate Moss, Kylie Minogue and Idris Elba waving Union Jacks from an upstairs balcony. 'Welcome to the House of Stella McCartney!' Stella told the press after cutting the shop's big red ribbon. 'I have been the architect in this process, creating this space.' The shop had been designed 'with bespoke personal experiences at its core' – a ball pit and climbing wall for kids on the ground floor and with art and sound installations throughout. Old Bond Street is 'probably one of the most prestigious retail locations in the world, it's an incredible honour for us [to be here],' The fashion designer said at the time: 'This store really tells the story of the world of Stella McCartney.' And like any good story, it features the rough and the smooth – decorative rocks sourced from the McCartney family farm in Scotland and a pink faux-fur-lined lift dubbed the 'Stellavator'. While the label is reportedly close to signing a new lease, they have yet to confirm where that will be (the brand did not respond to The Telegraph's request for comment). 'Stella McCartney is known for creating traditional luxury fashion, and traditional luxury fashion is expensive, and it needs certain codes - for example, fancy stores and amazing shows,' says sustainable fashion activist Orsola de Castro. 'A lot of money goes into these endeavours. A brand that also tries to be sustainable from a traditional luxury parameter has even more expenses than traditional luxury brands… So it is also not surprising that (in 2025), when brands are selling less, it would be one of the more sustainable brands that takes a hit.' Whether these changes symbolise a temporary setback or a more permanent problem for the brand – who are reportedly racing to cut costs citing 'significant pressure' from inflation on materials and salaries, plus the end of tax-free shopping in the UK, remains to be seen. Either way, it's a huge bump in the road for a brand that has blazed a trail within the fashion industry. 'Stella McCartney was the first designer showing in Paris to question the status quo of the luxury fashion market,' wrote The Telegraph's Lisa Armstrong in a review of her spring/summer 2025 show in Paris last September, which she declared 'notably thin on ideas'. 'She made vegan (synthetic, faux leather or whatever you want to call it) bags and shoes seem desirable. She used her hugely privileged position to champion the rights of animals when the rest of the fashion world didn't care… Through an advantageous position at LVMH, McCartney was able to invest in innovative, environmentally-friendly fabric startups and highlight their work at her shows. It doesn't hurt that she can always attract a stellar front row to lend glamour to her cause.' Stella has always had star power, from Kate Moss to Olivia Colman to Mary But, says luxury brand marketing consultant Gabriele Hackworthy, in today's fashion marketplace, a star-studded front row alone doesn't guarantee sales. 'In the early 2000s, the brand defined the 'cool girl' look with its sharp tailoring, effortless dresses, and the iconic Falabella bag…' Hackworthy notes. 'While the industry has shifted and evolved, it's a testament to [Stella McCartney's] creative vision that she has led the brand for over two decades – impressive in an era where top fashion houses are frequently rotating creative directors.' While Victoria Beckham may not boast such a starry front row, she is a huge star herself, living her brand, showcasing wares as diverse as a gown costing £900 to how to use her hit £30 eyeliner across both her and husband David's Instagram feeds (followed by over 120 million people combined) offering styling tips and glimpses into their 'private' world. Indeed, Victoria Beckham's eyeliner and fragrances have been credited by the star herself as helping her business go into profit for the first time in 15 years in 2022, with sales soaring by 52 per cent to £89 million in 2023. 'Fashion right now is deeply tied to cultural currency – and Victoria Beckham, paradoxically, has become more relevant by becoming more restrained, focused and even humble in her approach, repositioning herself from celebrity-designer to serious fashion entrepreneur…' adds Hackworthy, noting that LVMH brands (which Stella McCartney was until very recently) 'thrive by anchoring collections with hero accessories – they build worlds around their bags and shoes… Without a new must-have accessory, it's hard to build momentum. The Stella McCartney brand hasn't had that gravitational pull in years.' Then there are the prices. At £2000-plus, McCartney's off-the-peg trouser suits, renowned for being many career women's introduction to suiting, are more expensive than something similar at Victoria Beckham (£1,450). Newcomer brands such as the classic separates in Amy Powney's new venture Akyn will also challenge in this space. Dr Stine Hedegaard is the course leader for fashion, marketing and sustainability at London College of Fashion, UAL and an academic researcher in sustainable fashion strategy who explains that the UK luxury fashion sector faces a 'complex landscape, including evolving consumer attitudes, economic challenges and likely also consumer confusion about what constitutes sustainability'. 'From a luxury consumer perspective, research indicates there is a growing, but not dominant interest in sustainability. While awareness of sustainability issues is rising, the majority of shoppers don't prioritise sustainable brands when shopping… (sustainability) is not the primary driver for the majority of purchasing decisions in fashion, especially when compared to factors like price and quality. As such, you don't have an advantage from a consumer perspective if you are a luxury brand positioning yourself as sustainable, unless price and quality are key factors of your product offering.' 'For a long time, Stella proved that you could run a profit-making business while being environmentally responsible,' says Dana Thomas. 'She made 'conscious fashion' cool, and proved, for a time, that it was smart business. I hope she can right the course, and do so without sacrificing the good things she does. Fashion needs her.'
Grazia USA
19-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Grazia USA
Kate Middleton Just Wore Victoria Beckham — & You Can Shop Her Power Look Piece by Piece
LONDON, ENGLAND – MAY 13: Catherine, Princess of Wales tours design spaces with designer Patrick McDowell during a visit to the British Fashion Council to present the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design, at the British Fashion Council at 180 Studios on May 13, 2025 in London, England. (Photo by Aaron Chown –) Princess Catherine is making headlines once again for her timeless yet contemporary style — this time, thanks to an olive green pantsuit by none other than Victoria Beckham. The Princess of Wales presented the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design to sustainability-focused designer Patrick McDowell during a ceremony hosted by the British Fashion Council. Held at 180 Studios in London, the event celebrated the best in emerging British talent, with Kate serving as the elegant yet powerful embodiment of the industry's evolution. Her look? A commanding yet feminine ensemble by Victoria Beckham, featuring the Patch Pocket Jacket and Alina Trousers in the muted, earthy 'Willow' tone — a choice that subtly nodded to nature and renewal while reinforcing her commitment to British design. LONDON, ENGLAND – MAY 13: Catherine, Princess of Wales presenting Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design to designer Patrick McDowell at the British Fashion Council at 180 Studios in central London, where she will present the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British DesignStudios on May 13, 2025 in London, England. (Photo by Aaron Chown –) It was a moment packed with meaning. Kate, who has championed sustainable fashion throughout her royal career, presented the honor to McDowell, a designer known for his circular luxury approach. But her outfit spoke volumes, too: a British-made suit by a female designer, worn while supporting the next generation of innovators. And while the significance was clear, so was the style. The sharply tailored silhouette featured utilitarian pocketing, crisp pleats, and Beckham's signature minimalism. Paired with a ruffled ivory blouse and understated gold accessories, the look struck a perfect balance between formal and fashion-forward. Shop Kate Middleton's Exact Look Fashion fans and royal watchers alike can emulate the Princess of Wales' ensemble with these exact pieces: LONDON, UNITED KINGDOM – MAY 13: Catherine, Princess of Wales, arrives at British Fashion Council's British Design event to present Queen Elizabeth II award in central London, United Kingdom on May 13, 2025. (Photo by Ilyas Tayfun Salci/Anadolu via Getty Images) Blouse: Suit: Heels: A Fashion Moment With Meaning Kate Middleton's choice of Victoria Beckham was more than a stylish decision — it was a strategic one. While she's previously worn Beckham's designs on royal tours, choosing the British designer's suit for this high-profile occasion was a powerful endorsement, especially amid ongoing media chatter around the Beckham family's public dynamics. LONDON, ENGLAND – MAY 13: Catherine, Princess of Wales presenting Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design to designer Patrick McDowell (centre) accompanied by his mother (left) at the British Fashion Council at 180 Studios in central London, where she will present the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British DesignStudios on May 13, 2025 in London, England. (Photo by Aaron Chown –) It also marked a clear return to royal duties with purpose. By presenting the Queen Elizabeth II Award — which recognizes forward-thinking British designers — Kate not only celebrated sustainable fashion but also used her platform to uplift the creatives shaping its future. From the label she wore to the designer she honored, the Princess of Wales led by example. And with that, she reminded us that true style isn't just about what you wear. It's about the message it sends.
Daily Mail
14-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Daily Mail
After months of rewearing old favourites, the Princess of Wales has thrilled fans in a £1,340 suit: SHANE WATSON on how Kate got her fashion mojo back thanks to Victoria Beckham
Yesterday, the Princess of Wales presented the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design at an event held by the British Fashion Council. The recipient was rising star Patrick McDowell, who said he was delighted to receive the award from 'an amazing advocate of British fashion [who] flies the flag for British fashion. She also looks incredible and is a real style icon'. And so she did – and she is – but out of respect for the Princess, we're not rushing to tell you exactly what she was wearing. If you remember, Kensington Palace announced back in February that it would no longer reveal details of Kate's outfits, as it has done routinely in the past. This was to shift the focus away from what she wears to concentrate on the causes she supports. Still, this was a British fashion event, so . . . her outfit was a £1,340 willow green trouser suit from Victoria Beckham 's Spring/Summer collection, worn over a £565 Knatchbull cascade silk blouse. The shoes were £635 pumps by Ralph Lauren and the earrings were Bahrain pearl drops given to her by the late Queen – apt given the award was in her honour. We've seen a lot of the Princess dressing up in recent days (hooray!). There were all the VE Day celebrations, of course: the dark purple Emilia Wickstead coat dress for the military parade; the Alessandra Rich cream polka dot dress for the Service of Thanksgiving, both of them rewears. Before that, she arrived to celebrate her wedding anniversary on the Isle of Mull wearing her signature off-duty-in-the-country uniform of tweedy jacket, skinny jeans and walking boots – all familiar and previously worn. Kate Middleton seen arriving at 180 Strand on Tuesday wearing a £1,340 willow green trouser suit from Victoria Beckham's Spring/Summer collection Kate seen wearing the dark purple Emilia Wickstead coat dress in 2022 at the Horse Guards Parade (left) and again on VE Day earlier this month (right) The Princess of Wales pictured wearing the Alessandra Rich cream polka dot dress for the Order of the Garter Service in 2023 (left) and again for the Service of Thanksgiving in May (right) And on Monday, at the start of Mental Health Awareness Week, Kate posted a short film titled Spring, with her appearing to be in the same outfit. It was hard to tell – blink and you missed her – because the purpose of the video was to celebrate the benefits of nature for mental health. The message since her return to the royal front line after her cancer treatment has been: don't make me a clothes horse, never mind a fashion icon. Those days are gone. Kate is a young mother who has been through a lot in the past few years and we all understand that priorities shift. But that's not to say yesterday wasn't an air-punching moment for fashion fans. While agreeing to try not to obsess over Kate's choice of outfits, we can't help but be thrilled she's gone for something fresh off the rail of a home-grown, internationally lauded, slick and polished designer like Victoria Beckham. And we can't help hoping that Kate woke up yesterday after all the headlines about Brooklyn Beckham's estrangement from his family leaving Victoria brokenhearted and thought: I think I can do some good here. Spread a little joy, and put a spring in my step, too. I know how it feels to have a family member on the other side of the world giving you sleepless nights, so my support might have added meaning. Let's bring some fashion balm to this problem! Put away the Alexander McQueen trouser suit retread – I'm going full new season Brit glamour with Victoria Beckham. Even if the support for Victoria is pure fantasy, this was still a good day for fashion. It felt back to normal and almost a relief – because there are a couple of problems with Kate trying to blend into the fashion background. Princess Catherine pictured wearing the same black and white tartan dress at a visit to University College in 2021 and again during a visit to Corgi, a textiles manufacturer, in January First, since Diana came along, oozing star quality and looking as good as it gets, there's been a glaring vacancy for a beautiful princess with a figure to die for who can wear clothes that spark delight. Second, at 43, Kate looks too good to waste all that fashion-wearing potential. It's always a joy to see someone with natural poise and elegance carrying off clothes we civilians could only dream of wearing – and if that person happens to be the future queen, then tah dah! Is it wrong to want to copy Kate? Is it shallow to crane your neck to see what she's wearing? Does it stop us from paying attention to her good work? I would say 'no' to all of the above. If Kate's clothing choices caused a bump in the fortunes of a British designer, or a British high street label, and eager buyers could rewear them like Kate, that's a very satisfactory outcome.
Yahoo
13-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Princess of Wales stuns at the British Fashion Council
The Princess of Wales presented the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design to emerging designer Patrick McDowell at the British Fashion Council. Her Majesty looked glamorous as she celebrated young British fashion talent wearing a Victoria Beckham outfit.
Fashion Network
13-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Fashion Network
Patrick McDowell is latest Queen Elizabeth II Award recipient
Patrick McDowell is the latest recipient of the Queen Elizabeth II Award, with the designer receiving his honour from the Princess of Wales (in a surprise appearance) at a British Fashion Council event in London on Tuesday. Liverpool born and London-based, the Central Saint Martins graduate's label has sustainability as a key focus with items made to order and repair and refit also available. But his commitment to sustainability goes beyond his own label and he's known for being a sustainability promoter in the wider fashion industry as well as carrying that through in his work for the Pinko label. First presented by the late Queen (after whom it's named) in another even-more-of-a-surprise-appearance at London Fashion Week in 2018, the Award recognises the role of British design and fashion in the country's culture and trade. It's been presented every year since to an emerging British fashion designer 'who shows exceptional talent and originality, whilst demonstrating value to the community and strong sustainable policies'. Previous recipients include Richard Quinn, Bethany Williams, Rosh Mantani, Priya Ahluwalia, Saul Nash, Foday Dumbuya and Steven Stokey-Daley.
