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National Geographic
21-06-2025
- Entertainment
- National Geographic
Where to eat the best fish and chips in Cornwall
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). Come summer, nothing quite hits the spot like a generous serving of fish and chips eaten beside the Cornish coast. Whether wrapped in vinegar-soaked paper — perhaps enjoyed on a harbour wall — or served in a pub garden accompanied by a chilled local cider, this iconic British dish never fails to satisfy. Traditionally made with cod or haddock, deep-fried to a golden crisp and paired with thick-cut chips, tartare sauce and a liberal splash of vinegar, fish and chips is a meal steeped in nostalgia, often evoking childhood memories of summers spent by the coast. Although its exact origins are a source of debate, what seems clear is that the dish first emerged in 19th-century Britain as an affordable, hearty meal for the working classes not only in London's industrial East End but also in Northern English mill towns. Its large helpings and low cost made it a wartime staple, too — one of the few unrationed foods — and over time, it became a cherished Friday-night tradition, rooted in the Catholic culinary custom of meat-free meals on this sacred day. Today, Cornwall's fish and chip scene is more diverse than ever, thanks to greater access to fresh catch and a commitment to quality ingredients not just in beloved local chippies but in a host of restaurants, including Michelin-acclaimed kitchens. Furthermore, innovative chefs such as Benjamin Palmer, at The Sardine Factory in Looe, and Paul Ainsworth at The Mariners, in Rock, are honouring this classic meal while experimenting with creative new twists. To discover the best of Cornwall's fish and chips this summer, here are six must-visit spots. Harbour Lights, Falmouth For award-winning chips and community spirit Family-run and proudly Cornish, Harbour Lights, in Falmouth, isn't just another chippy — it's a local institution. Set above the harbour, this long-standing favourite was a top-10 finalist in the National Fish & Chip Awards 2019 and sources its fish daily from nearby Newlyn. A regular cod costs £17.95, and double-fried chips — made from Cornish potatoes — start at £4.85. Beyond the classics, the team encourages diners to try something new. The menu features Cornish hake and plaice alongside starters such as salt and pepper squid, crispy whitebait and breaded king prawns. Diners who eat in get unlimited chips with their main course. What sets Harbour Lights apart, though, is its strong community presence. The team supports causes such as the Fishermen's Mission through regular donations and hosts the Harbour Lights' Community Hero Awards to recognise civic-minded local residents. They've also taken to the stage with the Cornwall Good Seafood Guide at Falmouth's Oyster Festival and even offer an annual gift card providing 12 fish and chip meals for £170 for their most loyal customers. The Sardine Factory, Looe For Michelin-garlanded dishes At Michelin Bib Gourmand-awarded The Sardine Factory, the fish and chips is prepared with all the precision you'd expect of a fine dining establishment. Housed in a restored 19th-century sardine factory overlooking the harbour, this relaxed, award-winning restaurant is the passion project of local chef Benjamin Palmer, who returned home to celebrate Cornish seafood. Benjamin's take on traditional fish and chips (£20) — served with caramelised lemon and a selection of condiments — shares the menu with dishes such as dry-aged pollock ceviche, smoked haddock scotch egg and Cornish crab mac and cheese. The restaurant has a strong focus on local produce, with most ingredients sourced from the nearby Looe market and the surrounding area. Looe's Sardine Factory serves up not just traditional fish and chips, but also other Cornish-inspired dishes such as smoked haddock scotch egg and crab mac and cheese. Photograph by The Sardine Factory Harbour Chippy, Newquay For a classic menu with a modern twist Just a stone's throw from the fishing boats of Newquay's historic waterfront, Harbour Chippy serves succulent, flaky fish and chips with all the charm you'd expect from one of the best traditional seaside spots. Owned by Rob and Jen Randell, this family-run, takeout-only venue is located on one of the oldest roads in Newquay, offering the expected classics with refreshingly inclusive offerings. Alongside freshly cooked cod and chips (small portions from £6.10), there's a dedicated vegan selection — including battered sausages, pea fritters and nuggets — all fried in vegetable oil by the Chippy's vegan fryer. Plus, to cater to those with gluten sensitivities, a separate fryer is used for wheat-free batters and chips. This year, the couple also introduced a touchscreen ordering system, a nod to their forward-thinking ethos. If you've still got room for something sweet afterwards, pop next door to Newquay Waffle Shop, run by their son Matthew. The Mariners, Rock For an elevated, gastropub experience Michelin-recognised The Mariners serves a refined twist on pub classics, including traditional fish and chips. Relaunched in 2019 by Paul Ainsworth — one of Britain's top chefs and a leading name in Cornwall's food scene — alongside his wife Emma, this well-established spot has a terrace overlooking the beautiful Camel Estuary and puts a spotlight on Cornwall's finest produce. Under the direction of head chef Joe Rozier, who previously worked at Ainsworth's Michelin-starred No.6 in Padstow, the menu embraces bold, creative twists — from 'The Dog's Pollock', a pollock hot dog with pickled cucumber and parmesan, to Cornish monkfish served with cockle and clam butter. His elevated take on classic fish and chips (£25) includes line-caught cod, triple-cooked Yukon Gold chips, seaweed tartare, madras sauce and parsley peas. The Mariners is the vision of Paul Ainsworth, one of Britain's most celebrated chefs. Photograph by Chris Fynes (Top) (Left) and Photograph by @ (Bottom) (Right) Rick Stein's Fish & Chips, Padstow For old-time favourites with a premium edge It's hard to visit Cornwall these days without hearing Rick Stein's name — especially in Padstow, where his presence is particularly prominent. For a scenic day out, hire a bike in Wadebridge and follow the Camel Trail along the estuary into town, stopping for lunch at his popular fish and chip shop. Prices lean towards the higher end — with a standard cod costing £19 — but the quality and Stein's enduring reputation keep the crowds coming, so be prepared to queue. Fish such as haddock, hake, lemon sole and cod are fried in beef dripping for a golden, crunchy finish. Unlimited chips are available for an extra £3.95 when dining in, while a standard takeaway portion costs £3.50 and can be enjoyed by Padstow's picturesque harbourfront, just steps away. The menu also features small plates, including honey-drizzled halloumi saganaki, salt-and-pepper prawns and fish tacos. Argoe, Newlyn For a contemporary take that honours local roots Argoe offers a refined take on a fish supper — although not in the traditional sense. Frito misto with aioli is the closest thing this Cornish seafood spot gets to conventional fish and chips. Overlooking the town's busy working harbour, this intimate, wood-clad restaurant features contemporary interiors and a relaxed outdoor terrace. Owned by Richard Adams, a local, the restaurant honours Newlyn's rich fishing heritage with a daily-changing menu that's shaped by chef Angus Powell around the morning's catch. Sharing plates, including grilled piri piri monkfish, hand-dived scallops and smoked whiting roe flatbread, are served with chips or salad and a range of natural wines. Adding to the experience for diners, Angus can often be spotted heading down to the quay to collect fish straight off the boat — a fantastic way to see just how fresh the ingredients are. To accompany your meal, organic wines are poured from taps behind the bar. Since opening in 2021, Argoe has earned a Michelin Guide mention — a status reflected in the premium pricing, with grilled fish typically costing around £43 and chips available as a £6 side. To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
The Herald Scotland
08-06-2025
- The Herald Scotland
Padstow in Cornwall among Britain's best genteel seaside towns
Padstow was featured alongside nine others in a list from The Telegraph, which was highlighting coastal destinations that made for a refined trip. The publication said: "While there's a certain nostalgic joy to the type of coastal resort that's all candy floss, waltzers and slot machines, there's arguably greater pleasure in towns that have the seascapes and the golden sand but that are more cute than kitsch. "More sourdough than doughnut. More vibrant arts scene than end-of-the-pier innuendo. More artisanal ice cream than Mr Whippy." The full list of Britain's best genteel seaside towns can be found on The Telegraph website here. Why is Padstow among Britain's most genteel seaside towns? Padstow is obviously known for its variety of restaurants, which have made it a haven for diners and give it a refined quality. The Telegraph wrote: "Peaceful fishing village turned foodie phenomenon, Padstow is the British coast's tastiest choice. "Rick Stein is the main man about town, of course. His original Seafood Restaurant turns 50 this year, but has since been joined by a smorgasbord of other venues; for sociable platters served with Camel Valley sparkling, try his Seafood Bar & Fishmongers." For other options, try Paul Ainsworth at No.6 if you want to go "fancy", while BinTwo is a recommended wine bar/bottle shop. The publication adds: "Balance all this consumption with a walk along the cracking coast path and a ferry trip over to – even posher? – Rock, 'Britain's Saint-Tropez'." Another place to try out is the Padstow Kitchen Garden, which was created by former Rick Stein chef and seventh-generation farmer Ross Geach. You can gorge on "greenhouse dinners" here as part of 'feasts' that they run, or take part in a course learning how to cook nutritious meals using vegetables you've grown yourself. In terms of a place to stay, The Telegraph recommends Plum Cottage, which has only opened this year. It is said to be "an exquisitely restored, Grade-II listed, antique-filled hideaway". What else can you see and do around Padstow? As the Visit Cornwall website says, Padstow is more than "just great places to eat". It adds: "It's still a working harbour, it's surrounded by glorious beaches, and offers a base to explore the Camel estuary." The town is surrounded by "two breathtaking National Landscapes" in the Camel Estuary and Carnewas to Stepper Point. Recommended reading: It says: "This area is rich in natural beauty, home to rare plant species and one of the UK's most protected mammals, the otter. It's the perfect spot to slow down and enjoy the tranquillity of nature." Outside of the fine dining, there are plenty of cafes, bistros and pubs where people can enjoy some quality food and drink offerings. Some of these include The Harbour Inn, Old Custom House, The Shipwrights and The Golden Lion.
Telegraph
27-05-2025
- Automotive
- Telegraph
How the BMW X7 elevates everyday life for families
As most busy families will understand, a car isn't just about getting from one place to another. It's a moving extension of the family home. It has to be safe – a buffer between loved ones and the elements outside. But it also needs to be a place of calm, particularly for younger kids who might need to nap or mellow out. It should present distractions for longer trips, preserving parents' sanity as the miles clock up and also have the flexibility to accommodate the bulk of everyday life, be that buggies and food shops or surfboards and pedal bikes. Acclaimed chef and BMW 'friend of the brand' Paul Ainsworth knows this as well as any busy father. Based in Cornwall, where long drives are standard practice and the weather is unpredictable, his BMW X7 M60i has become the lynchpin of both family life and work logistics. First and foremost, the focus is on safety. 'My daughter's school is 30 miles away, so we're on the A30 a lot,' Ainsworth explains. 'You need to feel the car's solid, that it's got you covered – and the X7 gives you that. It feels strong and sturdy. You just know your family is secure.' The X7 is full to the brim with safety-first features, such as Lane Control Assistant, Frontal Collision Warning with City Collision Mitigation, and the optional Driving Assistant Professional, which includes steering and lane control support. For those who regularly drive longer distances, especially with children in the car, these features are invaluable. Add to those the Surround View and Parking Assistant Professional – letting you spot even the smallest obstacle and manoeuvre accordingly – and it's easy to see why the X7 offers peace of mind. Then there's the matter of keeping the screeching down and everyone entertained. 'In terms of how they travel, we definitely had them in the right order,' Paul laughs. 'CiCi, my elder daughter, is quite chilled and goes with the flow. She always has. Audrey, my younger one, is completely different. She's all about the routine. If that routine gets disrupted, you know about it.' Keeping the whole family happy on the road has never been so easy or pleasurable. The X7's third-row seating gives space for up to seven people in comfort, which is a boon for the Ainsworths. With two kids in the back, the rear entertainment screens are also a lifesaver. Plus, the four-zone climate control, the eight USB-C ports and generous storage compartments throughout means everyone can settle into their own comfort zone. The optional panoramic Sky Lounge sunroof is another road trip hero. On the A30 school run, it turns early morning drives into a visual experience. 'It's a long drive, and often we're doing it while it's still a bit dark, but we get sunrise over the moorland and that's a real favourite of Cici's,' Ainsworth says. And then, of course, there's the space. Living in Cornwall means loading up the car, which isn't just during a once-a-week grocery shop. 'I need a big boot,' says Ainsworth. 'You've got the wetsuits, the dog, Cici's skateboards, bikes, buckets – all the stuff. It just gets loaded in.' The BMW X7's electrically split tailgate and height-adjustable air suspension makes it easier to load heavy gear. The third row of seats folds away at the touch of a button, freeing up more than 750 litres of cargo space when needed. 'When I'm not filling the boot with produce for the restaurants, I'm filling it with all the stuff our life demands,' Ainsworth says. 'I think it's almost a prerequisite of living in Cornwall – you have to have hobbies that involve a lot of kit.' His wife Emma, he notes, is the only low-maintenance one in the household. 'She just needs a pair of fully charged AirPods and she's off for a long walk along the coast with her favourite podcasts.' His daughter CiCi, on the other hand, is constantly levelling up her interests. 'If it's not surfing, it's skateboarding. And now her surf coach has recommended surf-skateboarding, so adding yet another board to add to the pile.' The flexibility of the X7's boot space, combined with its thoughtful family-first features, makes it uniquely suited to this kind of lifestyle. Whether it's heading to school, the beach, or London for a work meeting, the car adapts seamlessly. What stands out about the BMW X7 is its ability to merge performance, space and comfort in one attractive package. 'It's really everything,' Ainsworth says. 'You've got the height, the views, the comfortable seats – but also that family-friendly flexibility. It doesn't feel like a compromise. It works for us.'
Telegraph
27-05-2025
- Automotive
- Telegraph
Why you don't have to sacrifice luxury when you choose an SUV
When it comes to family SUVs, it's sometimes hard to discern upfront if off-roading credentials will meet reality, but the BMW X7 meets every expectation. Built with the same attention to engineering precision as its performance-focused siblings, the X7 blends comfort, versatility and genuine off-road capability into one luxuriously appointed package. Chef Paul Ainsworth knows the value of this duality. Running a spread of successful businesses across Cornwall, he juggles the demands of his high-level hospitality venues with a lifestyle that pulls him away from paved roads almost daily. If he's not heading down muddy lanes to suppliers, he's loading the car up with all the kit required for a family day at the beach. 'Quite often my job takes me to places where I'm meeting farmers, fishermen and suppliers,' Ainsworth explains. 'You could be going down to a farm, onto a beach or into woodland – it's really important to have a vehicle that's just as good off-road as it is on the tarmac.' One of those locations is the Porthilly oyster farm. 'We're often pulling onto the beach, following the old tractor tracks,' he recalls. 'There are big rocks and silt if the tide has just gone out. But with the BMW X7, I've never once thought, 'We're going to get stuck here.' It just goes straight over it.' The X7 M60i xDrive is equipped with BMW's intelligent all-wheel drive system, but for those wanting a bit of extra off-road confidence, the optional xOffroad Package adds four specific driving modes: xSnow, xSand, xGravel, and xRocks. Each of them optimises traction, torque and stability based on the terrain. Ground clearance can also be increased, thanks to the height-adjustable air suspension, which is controlled via a physical button, rather than buried in menu screens. 'That's what I love,' Ainsworth says. 'You just press the button and lift it up – it's so simple.' The suspension system also includes Executive Drive Pro with active-roll stabilisation. This means the drive will still feel seriously smooth and safe even if the ground is uneven. Plus, the Integral Active Steering makes low-speed manoeuvring on tight trails a doddle. But the X7's off-road strengths aren't only about helping Ainsworth while he works. They're just as essential for his personal pursuits too. 'For me, going down onto the beach is really important,' he says. 'It's my happy place. When I first moved to Cornwall, I loved the landscape, but now, with my daughters, it's everything. That connection to the coast, the outdoors – that's where I feel most grounded.' A favourite family destination is Port Quin, a remote Cornish cove that's accessible either by Rib from the sea or by quite a challenging drive. It's worth it when you get there though. 'It's a real paddleboarding kind of place,' Ainsworth explains. 'You've got this amazing crystal-clear water, and it's like this secret, tucked-away spot. Getting there by car isn't easy as it's quite out of the way, but the X7 makes it completely doable.' If it's not beach days as a family, Ainsworth is taking off for a solo cycle. 'I'm a keen cyclist,' he says. 'Sometimes I start from home, but I've also driven to Dartmoor with the bike in the back to get a good starting point for a longer route. It's brilliant for that.' Dartmoor's varied terrain and remote tracks might present a challenge for the average car, but then, the X7 is anything but average. The xOffroad Package and adaptive suspension are perfectly designed for tackling unsealed roads and gravelled parking spots. 'There's a lot of stuff involved in cycling,' Ainsworth adds. 'Shoes, helmets, fixing kits… I'm quite organised with it all. It's all sorted in tubs, so the space and layout of the X7 really help.' For families who want a car that can genuinely keep up – on and off the beaten path – the BMW X7 is an impressive proposition. From ferrying produce back from a farm, navigating a soft-sand beach at low tide or pulling into a trailhead for a day in the saddle, it's adaptable. 'It just does everything,' Ainsworth says. 'You can go off-road, load up the back, take the dog, the kids, whatever. It looks beautiful, feels amazing to drive and it gets you where you need to be – no matter what the road looks like.'
Telegraph
06-05-2025
- Health
- Telegraph
How chefs stay slim and fit (despite long hours and leftovers)
Between the pace, the pressure, the rich food and the late nights, the life of a chef is not for the faint-hearted – or the health conscious. The 2021 film Boiling Point, set in London's hottest restaurant on the busiest night of the year, got its name for good reason. Around 41 per cent of UK chefs say their job impacts their wellbeing negatively and almost three-quarters admit to calling in sick because of stress, according to a survey. And we all know that regular stress plus irregular sleep plus high calorie foods is a recipe for obesity. The saying goes: 'If you can't stand the heat, get out the kitchen.' But now, as more chefs are looking at the longevity of the career they love, they're taking a new approach: a healthier one. Tom Kerridge is power-lifting. Gordon Ramsay has run 15 marathons and five ultras. Michel Roux Jr swears by yoga and Pilates. Here, the three top chefs explain how they are leading by example in their restaurants, prioritising their careers by looking after themselves and putting their health first. 'You only change when you're ready' Paul Ainsworth In the last two years, Michelin-starred Paul Ainsworth, 45, has overhauled his diet and become the fittest he's ever been. All while managing his restaurant empire in Cornwall. He's also a veteran judge on Great British Menu. He ran the London Marathon this year, having competed in Zurich Ironman last year. What did life look like before your health kick? I was always overweight as a child. I grew up surrounded by 1980s diet culture and I remember Mum packing me off to school with a Slim Fast. It probably wasn't the best thing to do, but I don't blame her. Then, in my 20s in London it was all 18-hour days and stubbies of lager. I wasn't overweight because I was working so much. I don't regret any of my path, but I'm not going to put that on younger chefs and say: 'That's what you need to do to get to the top.' People want to have a quality of life now and that's correct. When it comes to dieting to manage my weight, where I always went wrong was going to extremes. I'd say, 'Right, no carbs, I'm just eating meat.' It might work for some people, but then I find you crave bread and potatoes. With all the exercise I was doing to train for the London Marathon, if I didn't eat properly I would get horrible fatigue from the exercise. Last year I was 110kg and when I went into Iron Man I was 93kg. I'm currently 83kg, and I still enjoy a good pizza. I think for me, eating well comes down to making better choices, saying: 'I don't need that dessert.' When were you at your most unfit? In 2015, I had a lot going on. We were expanding the business and I'd taken on the restaurants Caffè Rojano and the Padstow Townhouse. My wife Emma was pregnant with our daughter Cici and I also found out my dad had been diagnosed with pancreatic cancer. When we got to the really horrible bit with Dad's cancer I was just in this rut of bad eating. I didn't want to cook. I was numb. I'd just order takeaways. Seeing pictures from back then is quite traumatic. I just look lost. I had one pair of jeans I felt comfortable in. What do you eat at home? Two years ago, my diet was completely different. But now, I wake up and have an electrolyte drink and a black coffee. I'm a big fan of intermittent fasting; I will try and stop eating at 8pm. I'll usually have my first meal at midday. I'll have four or five fried St Ewe eggs with good sourdough, which is just flour, water, and ferment. One of my favourite things growing up was my Granny Ainsworth making me eggs and soldiers and it reminds me of that. In the evenings it's steak, new potatoes – steamed and roasted in a bit of butter – and a feta salad. I will eat steak five or six times a week. We like the marinated roast chicken thighs our butcher Philip Warren does too. I only have two meals a day, apart from on Sunday when I get my run done nice and early and then make Cici pancakes. That's our day as a family. Tell us about your weekly exercise regimen and why it works My aim for the London Marathon was to be able to say I did it in sub four hours. As the weeks passed, I thought I could get near to 3.46 but I had to pivot on the day, the heat was brutal. At mile 21 I changed my plan and went back to sub 4. I was hurting and the places you go in your mind is extraordinary. I managed 3.56 officially, and 3.54 by my watch. Leading up to the marathon I was running 50k a week, doing one 2,000m swim and two indoor Zwift cycles. I also have a gym at home. After the London Marathon, I had a rest week then will start training for an Iron Man. I need goals so I'm not just training in the dark. Exercise is now my form of meditation. It has absolutely changed my life. I feel calmer, have more energy. I can work out problems better than I've ever done. I'm the fittest I've ever been in my life. What changed your attitude towards food and fitness? When I moved to Cornwall in 2005, I got into running and body boarding, but I just couldn't find the consistency with it. Work always came first. Even when I ran the marathon in 2019 to raise money for Pancreatic Cancer UK, training was going well until I got the call asking us to take on The Mariners restaurant. At that point it went out the window. As a result, at mile 18 the wheels came off. Then in 2022, I went to London and had a health MOT. The doctor said you do need to change your lifestyle. I had a good heart rate, but I was overweight. You only change when you're ready. In 2023, something just clicked and changed. I realised I was never going to be less busy with work and I was in my prime to change. Gordon Ramsey, whom I'd worked for and is a great friend, recommended Chris Dominey to me, an Iron Man and triathlon coach he trains with when he's in Cornwall. Chris did some reverse psychology on me. He said: 'I'm not a drill sergeant. If you don't turn up, that's your call.' That was like a red rag to a bull. I thought, 'After everything I've built, you think I can't commit to some sessions?' What is the most demanding aspect of your job? One lesson I was taught early on is that it's all about the people. The team builds the success of the business. We now employ over 250 people, and that's a massively demanding aspect. While I'm a chef at heart, I'm not on a section day in and day out now. I'm running a collection of businesses at the highest standard. I have to be my best. Now, I feel like I'm advocating looking after yourself for my whole team. That puts out good energy to look after yourself. 'I eat so clean in the week, I can eat what I want at the weekend' Tommy Banks Chef director Tommy Banks, 35, owns the The Black Swan, The Abbey Inn and Roots. He earned his first Michelin star at 24 and is a veteran judge on BBC's The Great British Menu, having won the competition in 2016, 2017, and 2020. A sporty child and a keen gym-goer, he has navigated a chronic illness, a back injury as well as a high-pressure job as a chef to find a health regime that works for him. What was life like before your health kick? I was actually really into cricket growing up and I played other sports as well. Then I was diagnosed with ulcerative colitis when I was 18 and needed major operations. My bowel was removed and my cricket career ended. I fell into cooking after that. Working ridiculously hard and working all hours kept me quite skinny. Then about five years ago I got really into the gym, until I got two herniated discs in my back. My wife was having to push me around on my office chair. I had a one-year-old daughter that I struggled to pick up. My diet was also not the greatest and I put on weight. I was probably 108kg. I got to a point where I was told I needed surgery. But then I went to see a physio who said I didn't need surgery, I just needed a proper rehab plan. He reckoned in 12 weeks I'd be pain-free. At that point I'd been in pain for 15 months; taking tramadol at night so I could sleep. My wife said I needed to treat it like work and put it into my calendar. It was an intense programme, building leg, core and glute strength. The majority of people get herniated discs because of wear and tear, what you need to do is make yourself strong in other areas so you're bullet proof. This was two years ago. I marked the one-year anniversary by doing a Hyrox. Since then, I've kept training, running and doing weights. I feel good. I'm now 96kg and have a lot more muscle. I'm in good shape, feel super healthy and use the InBody scales at the gym to measure my weight but also my fat and muscle. I've got the York Ten race coming up. I'd like to do another Hyrox event but I keep missing out on tickets. It's a really cool occasion. I love the fact that a fairly middling fit person like me can compete at the same time as some really high level guys What do you eat at home? I have eight eggs for breakfast in the morning and maybe a little bit of bacon. They could be scrambled, in an omelette or poached. That's 56 eggs a week. A lot of our businesses are spread across North Yorkshire and I spend a lot of time in the car, knowing I'm not going to eat very well. If I eat eight eggs in the morning I know I had something nutritionally perfect that fills me up and gives me energy. When I have carbs I crash and I can't concentrate. I don't see any value in counting calories because not all calories are equal. It's a rubbish metric. My thing is protein. I have over 200g of protein a day easily. My fat will be well over 100g but I will only have 30g of carbs. I use Chat GPT if I want to figure out where I'm at. It gives me a macro nutrient breakdown. I have a theory that I can have what I want for dinner. If I'm home, I'll have steak and veg. Every weekend we go out. I still love nothing more than going to our pubs and having a full Sunday roast, pints of beer or a pizza. Because I eat so clean in the week, I can eat what I want at the weekend. I get to enjoy the craft side because I'm looking after myself the rest of the time. Tell us about your weekly exercise regimen and why it works A typical exercise week is three strength gym sessions a week. Sometimes it's only two because that's life. I also run twice a week. If I'm away for a week with work I will train every day, because I'm away from my family. Previously I would have gone and got drunk. I like big movements like bench pressing, that's my favourite because you get to lie down. Blocks of weight training mean you might get a personal best. I find running training more frustrating. My personal trainer might say, 'I want you to do a really slow zone 2 run'. And I can't be bothered with that. I just want to always run as fast as I'm able to. Which isn't very fast. I'm quite a big guy so I don't really do distance; I like doing between 7-10km. I'd like to run a marathon at some point but I just think I find the training really boring. Exercise is part of my holistic approach to looking after myself. If you feel healthy and you're not hungover, overweight, or tired, you deal with the stress so much better. What is the most demanding aspect of your job? The hours and travel mean the lifestyle of hospitality and being fit and healthy are not always aligned. We do a lot of events that involve long days and sleeping in hotel rooms and that makes it hard to have a routine. Some nights I have tea with my family and the next night I'm working until 1am in the morning. I do think that if you'd talked about this five years ago it would have been very different, but younger chefs are more health conscious. We used to drink every night. Young chefs don't. They're more likely to finish work and go to a 24-hour gym. You see protein shakes in the kitchens all the time. The culture has changed a lot. How do you stay disciplined with food? The nature of being a senior chef means you have to try everything, which could mean a lot of desserts. There's no real pattern to your eating. Now on a typical day I try to eat very low carbs. I'll have my eggs for breakfast. Then if I'm on the go, I chuck something super convenient in my bag like a tin of fish, high fat cottage cheese or Greek yogurt with some nut butter. That will be my lunch. Now I only eat things that are really unhealthy if they're really good versions. I'm never going to eat a Kit Kat, but if you offered me an amazing piece of chocolate gâteau from a French patisserie, I'm going to eat it 100 times out of 100. It's not healthy but it will be absolutely delicious. That's my rule. I won't eat Domino's, but I'll have a beautiful Neapolitan-style pizza. The same with alcohol. Previously I would drink socially. If someone offered me a bottle of lager, I'd drink it, even though I don't really like lager. I drink a fraction of the wine I used to, but I drink better quality. 'It's easy to lose count of what you're eating as a chef' Jack Croft When Jack Croft, 32, opened London restaurant Fallow, he reached 'another level of unhealthy'. Then when the UK went into lockdown, the chef who also owns FOWL and Roe, as well as a viral cooking social platform @ took his health into his own hands. What was life like before your health kick? My dad was a chef so my whole childhood was around good quality food. It was amazing, our Sundays were filled with cooking and making desserts and french dishes like coq au vin and tarte tatin. But obviously, it was also not great for your health. When we opened Fallow that was another level of unhealthy. We were working 18-hour days until the early hours, six days a week. My wife and I say that was my ugly phase. There was a lot of Pret sandwiches, anything convenient really, for a solid year. I was only 29 and my posture was bad from work and my knees hurt. It was the lockdown that made things change. I'd always had an interest in fitness, but it was lying dormant. I'd been very into the gym when I was 17 and even did a personal training course before deciding that I did want to be a chef. When the lockdown happened, it came at a point when we'd been working so hard. Then suddenly I had this 30-minute window to exercise everyday. That period was important for my mental wellbeing. It became a daily release from work. I started off going to Barry's Bootcamp and slowly took my fitness up a level. I'm on a training plan at the moment. I'm putting a bit of weight on on purpose to strip it back down. That's why I've started counting calories. It's easy to lose count of what you're having as a chef. Monitoring my meals recently has been really eye opening. What's for breakfast? I get up at 6.45am, do my black coffee and all my vitamins and tablets then I usually cycle to work, so there's an element of fasted cardio. I'll have my breakfast, usually with a banana and 120g of oats and yogurt when I get to work. What does a normal day look like for you food-wise? On a normal day I'm pretty regimented. I take my lunch into the restaurant with me. Something like pasta and chicken or mince and sweet potato. I like to eat very plain for balance. I know during service I'm going to be tasting things with butter and olive oil or rib eye steak. When I get home in the evening I'll have some yogurt or a protein shake. My wife's a good cook but we still eat relatively plain. I'm not at home to eat a massive amount. I get two days off a week and usually one of those days we'll go out for a meal to a restaurant opening perhaps, even then I'll make healthy choices. Before I would have had three servings of the bread and 'keep the butter coming'. Or a cheeseboard. Now I actively move away from those things. I still enjoy a glass of champagne or a cocktail. It's all the little extras that I now try and avoid. Tell us about your weekly exercise regimen and why it works I cycle to work every day and have done for the last 15 years. I don't even class that as exercise, it's my commute and gives me a base line of fitness. Then in the afternoon I'll do more strength stuff in the gym. Right now I've parked endurance style work outs as I don't have enough time. I've got a second child on the way. I enjoy doing the exercise because it means I can eat more. You're not a chef if you don't love food. I still like to have a drink. So it's just about balance. I've developed my routine so it works for me. I wouldn't say I'm as fit as I have been. In the past I've done a couple of triathlons and a couple of half marathons. Right now, I'm putting more effort into being stronger. I'm at a stage where I'm trying to understand my body a bit more rather than pushing it to the limits. I want to understand how it puts on and loses weight. What is the most demanding aspect of your job? Balancing it with the family is always tricky. We're still in a period of growth as a business, opening three restaurants in three years. Being in the restaurants is my dream, but I also want to be at home as much as possible. The demands on you really depend on what kind of environment you're in. If you're in a kitchen where there is a nice healthy meal laid out for the staff and everyone talks about healthy things, like instead of going for a pint they go for a bike ride, then you're going to be influenced by that. I think being more health conscious is a shift in everyone. Half the restaurants now are filled with people wearing gym gear.
