5 days ago
I discovered a fascinating link between Scotland and the art of Siena
Siena, helped by its position on the Via Francigena, an important pilgrim and trade route to Rome, had risen as a centre of culture as well as of commerce after it defeated its rival Florence in 1260. Architecture and art in all forms flourished and Sienese painters, originally influenced by byzantine art, began to move away from stylized and devotional representations towards more secular, narrative portrayals. Some feature skilfully executed architecture, many are decorative and lyrical and others notable for the expressive and poetic faces.
For those not lucky enough to be able to visit Siena, the exhibition Siena: The Rise of Painting 1300 - 1350 running at the National Gallery, London until June 22 contains fine examples. The artists included the Lorenzetti brothers and Simone Martini but it was undoubtedly Duccio who was the master.
Fresco by Pinturicchio in the Piccolomini Library showing Aneas Silvius Piccolomino meeting King James I of Scotland (Image: unknown)
It was in recognition that he had created something superb that the procession of the Maestà was arranged. To show it off it did not however, take the direct route to the cathedral but a more circuitous one and I realised that by following it, even today I would discover much of the art and architecture for which Siena is famous.
The procession in fact headed straight down to the newly built Piazza del Campo which the year before had hosted the very first Palio, the horse race which still takes place every summer. It is a unique scallop-shaped space of great charm which, then as now, quickly established itself as the heart of Siena. Sheltered by tall imposing buildings and edged with cafes, there are fewer more pleasant places to sit and relax.
Within the piazza is the town hall, the Palazzo Pubblico, an impressive example of medieval/gothic civic architecture. This was commissioned by The Nine, the governing body of the city, together with a series of magnificent frescoes still to be found in almost every room. The most outstanding are the enormous Allegories of Good and Bad Government painted in 1338 by Ambrogio Lorenzetti, which not only reminded citizens of the importance of good governance and the potential consequences of bad decisions but also provide us today with an unparalleled glimpse of 14th century Tuscan life.
Piazza del Campo (Image: Visit Tuscany)
Here too in the Sala del Mappamondo is Simone Martini's Maestà painted just after Duccio's as well as his fresco portrait of the mounted warlord Giudoricco da Fogiano, between the castles he had conquered, resplendent in the same striking livery as his horse. This is one of the first truly secular paintings created with both realism and imagination.
From the Piazza the procession did not have far to travel to the cathedral but the followers may not have seen all its wonders as we do today because it took many years to complete. Conversely, if we want to see Duccio's Maestà now (many Sienese art works were lent to the London exhibition but this one remained firmly at home) we need to cross over to the Museo dell'Opera Metropolitana.
There I sat quietly and contemplated the glorious masterpiece which, although stripped of some predellas and smaller paintings, still finds itself 714 years later at (almost) its original location. It remained on the high altar for some years and was then moved around the cathedral several times before being dismembered and sections sold off in the eighteenth century. It was moved to its present location in 1878 and now some 33 of the smaller sections are found in 10 collections in I 5 countries.
Hotel Duomo in Siena (Image: Hotel Duomo)
Before leaving the cathedral complex, I entered the Piccolomini Library where I came upon a fascinating link between Siena and Scotland. Amongst the frescos painted by Pinturicchio around 1505 there is one depicting King James 1 of Scotland receiving Aeneas Silivius Piccolmini, the future Pope Pius II.
The king sits enthroned under a loggia surrounded by courtiers but there is nothing remotely Scottish about this rather enchanting scene. The style of the clothing is entirely Italian and the background, a lake on which a gondola-like boat sails, is as different from the Firth of Forth as one can imagine.
Yet such a meeting did occur. In 1335 Aenaes Silvius, aged 30, did go to meet the Scottish monarch in Edinburgh on a mysterious diplomatic mission. He had many adventures including a shipwreck - he also got a Sienese lady pregnant…Later, another famous Scotsman, James Boswell while ostensibly looking at art on his Grand Tour also had several dalliances in Siena and was in fact the love object of Girolama Piccolomino, a situation from which he apparently, 'beat a hasty retreat.'
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Of course Siena has much more to offer than art; there are numerous excellent restaurants: La Taverna del Capitano, Enoteca I Terzi, Ristorante il Particolare, Ristorante San Desidero and Ristorante il Tufo were amongst those wherein I enjoyed good local dishes.
There are also all the smart shops one expects from a thriving Italian city but why not take the opportunity in this city so imbued with art, to buy enduring treasures from local artist and crafts people? A complete list of artisans can be found at
For truly exquisite paintings ( expensive but worth it considering work involved) Chiara Perinetti Casoni together with her brother Paolo, use the old traditional techniques of wood, egg tempera and gilding to produce both copies and enchanting original works which capture the essence of the Sienese masters. Several other people including Marco Caratelli, offer similar works
Siena is not only a beautiful city in itself but the visitor will find within it a unique treasure trove of beautiful things to enjoy.
Duccio 's Maestà (Image: free) FACT BOX
Patricia Cleveland-Peck travelled to Florence courtesy of Vueling Airlines. Flights from Edinburgh connect via Barcelona.
She was hosted by Tuscany Official Tourism
She stayed at the Hotel Duomo, Siena
Thanks too to the Comune di Siena, Councillor Mrs Vanna Giunti and Veronika Wobbe. Also to the city guides, Giulia, Lucovica and Anna
