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Irish Independent
23-05-2025
- General
- Irish Independent
From ‘happy juice' to claret: the rise of dark rosés and pale reds
Our wine expert on the rise of the summery 'inbetweeners' At a recent tasting of wonderful wines from Poland, Hungary, Slovenia, Georgia and Greece, I got chatting to one of Hungary's most interesting young winemakers, whose wines I've previously recommended. Zoltan 'Zoli' Heimann Jr of Heimann & Fiai is building on the reputation of his parent's winery in Szekszárd, southern Hungary, but focusing his attention on modern, low-intervention, terroir-driven interpretations of indigenous grapes. His delicate Kadarka and richer Kekfrankos (aka Blaufrankisch) are as poised as ever, but I love his new addition, which is today's wine of the week: a very pale red wine which he describes as 'happy juice' to chill lightly for a refreshing summer's glass. He is proud of the low alcohol (not easy to achieve in a warm climate like Szekszárd), and juicy, well-balanced but restrained flavours achieved with gentle extraction and whole-bunch complexity. It's the perfect bottle to have chilling in your fridge, ready to take out about half an hour before pouring. There's been an uptick in wines described as a dark rosé or pale red — you decide: summer quaffers with the freshness and aromatic red fruits of rosé and the savoury character, weight and tannic structure of red wine, if delicate rather than dense. Wine writer Jamie Goode describes them (on as 'in-between' wines, and an emerging fifth category of still wines alongside red, white, rosé and skin-contact (aka amber or orange) wines. He includes 'vin gris' in this bracket: made from pink-skinned grapes typically used for white wines, like Pinot Gris/Grigio, but fermented in contact with their skins like a red wine. This arguably makes them an orange wine — except the pink ('gris') hues of the skin makes them look more like a rich pink-orange rosé. Bosinakis Aspela (MacCurtain's Wine Cellar, €40) is a charming Greek example made from Moschofilero grapes. Clarete is another in-between style with traditional roots enjoying a modern revival. This ancient pre-cursor to rosé sees white and red grapes co-planted, co-harvested and co-fermented like a red wine. Short maceration times keep things light, while ageing in large old barrels, often on the lees, develops complexity. They have a little (if light) tannic structure, unlike rosé, plus lots of freshness. Traditional to northern Spain's Ribera del Duero and Cigales, today's example is from Bierzo. Or try Albamar Clarete (€33, Lilith Wines), made from Mencia, Caino and Albarino grapes in coastal Rias Baixas, or clarete's Portuguese equivalent of 'palhete' from Folias de Baco's Uivo Renegado (€23, Wines of the week Heimann & Fiai Piros 2024, Szekszárd, Hungary, 11.5pc, €24 A light red so pale it's rosé, with herbal-floral red fruit notes (pomegranate, hibiscus and rosehip) drinking soft and easy with juicy, peppery moreishness, this 70:30 blend of Kekfrankos and Kadarka was direct pressed for gentle extraction of flavour, colour and tannin (rather than crushing the grapes and macerating the skins) and fermented and aged in concrete like a rosé but with whole berries and stems for complexity. Delicious chilled. BaRossa Wines, Blackrock Cellar, Cooper's Bottleshop, Clontarf Wines, Delgany Wine Cottage, Pinto Wines; Lavina Aladasturi 2023, Kakheti, Georgia, 11pc, €30-€33 ADVERTISEMENT A pale, light and chillable fruity red made from Aladasturi grapes, one of 500 varieties indigenous to Georgia, where winemaking production goes back at least 6,000 years. Expect red cherry, raspberry and pomegranate notes, with a herbal perfume and light tannins. BaRossa Wines, Lilith, Redmond's of Ranelagh, The Wine Pair, The Wine Buff, Blackrock Cellar; Casa Aurora Pepink Clarete 2022, Bierzo, Spain, 13pc, €23.80 A joyous, bright red field blend of Palomino (the neutral white grape in sherry) with 10pc red grapes (Mencia, Garnacha Tintorera, Garnacha, Trousseau), co-fermented like a red wine, aged in amphora under flor and large old barrels, as was the daily tipple of the winemaker's grandparents. Lilith Wines, Weninger Rózsa Petsovits MMXXII, Burgenland, European wine, 12.5pc, €25 Fragrant with vibrant redcurrant, raspberry and rosehip and savoury hints of balsamic and white pepper, this very pale yet fleshy red is an organic cross-border blend of Austrian-grown Blaufrankisch and Pinot Noir with Hungarian Syrah and Zweigelt. BaRossa Wines, Cooper's Bottleshop, Delgany Wine Cottage, Blackrock Cellar, Martins, Sweeney's D3, Pinto Wines; Foradori Lezer 2022, IGT Vigneti Delle Dolomiti Rosso, Italy, 12.5pc, €25.95 A pale dusky 'vin de soif' red from Trentino, blending Teroldego with Schiava, Merlot and Lagrein and offering heady wild hedgerow flowers and fruit, light tannins and gorgeous mountain freshness. Certified organic and biodynamic. Seagull Bakery (Waterford), Dodi Stockroom (Lahinch), L'Atitude 51 (Cork), Blackrock Cellars, Sweeney's D3, Lilith (all Dublin),
Edinburgh Reporter
11-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Edinburgh Reporter
From Michelin stars to home kitchens – Chef Alberto brings Italian magic to Edinburgh
There's something utterly delightful about watching a master at work, especially when that master is promising to simplify their craft for those of us whose culinary achievements typically peak at not burning the toast. So, when the Social Bitches invited me to meet Chef Alberto – sous chef at the Balmoral, no less – I initially suspected I'd been summoned for my knife skills rather than my sparkling wit. They're not exactly known for their kitchen prowess, and I've often found myself playing resident chef in their lovely kitchen. But this afternoon promised something different. Chef Alberto, with 20 years of Michelin-starred experience under his belt, has launched a new website aimed at bringing professional culinary techniques into home kitchens across Edinburgh and beyond. Originally from the foothills of the Italian Alps, Alberto's culinary journey began on his grandfather's farm, where meals weren't just sustenance but celebrations – vibrant gatherings centred around authentic, homemade Italian food. Those early experiences provided the foundation for what would become an illustrious career, and now, they're inspiring his latest venture. Rather than putting us all to work, Alberto was content to demonstrate every simple step involved in creating his masterpiece: a Caramelised Onion Tart that apparently became so popular when he put it on the menu that he 'couldn't take it off the menu anymore.' I watched, slightly mesmerised, as he slowly caramelised thick slices of onions in butter and oil, added fresh thyme, and prepared a maple syrup caramel that was spooned lovingly over the onions before topping with puff pastry. A mere 12 minutes in the oven, and while we waited, he created a heavenly goat cheese fondue using Elrik cheese, a splash of double cream, and a little heat. The result? A starter that 'awakes the palate and builds anticipation' as Alberto poetically puts it. We paired it with two Pinot Gris – one from New Zealand, and one from Austria – and a cheeky Lidl Reisling, creating the perfect afternoon of exceptional food shared among friends both old and new. I'm already planning to recreate this dish when entertaining friends of my 88-year-old Mum, who's living at home with dementia. Their last attempt to take her out for Christmas lunch ended with a fainting spell, vomiting, and an unwelcome visit to A&E. Cooking at home seems infinitely preferable, and Alberto's onion tart feels like the perfect way to thank them for their kindness and support. For those wondering if you too can create this deceptively simple showstopper, the answer is an emphatic yes. Alberto's website ( offers the complete recipe, along with others designed to bring Michelin-quality dishes to your dining table. Because as Chef Alberto clearly believes – and I'm rapidly coming around to the idea myself – exceptional food shouldn't be confined to luxury hotels. Sometimes the most memorable meals happen right in your own kitchen. Like this: Like Related
The Province
08-05-2025
- Entertainment
- The Province
Wine Guy: Wines crafted in B.C. get special attention
The 2024 vintage continues to show up on shelves and in tasting rooms. Photo by 5PH iStock / Getty Images Plus / Getty Images Reviews and recommendations are unbiased and products are independently selected. Postmedia may earn an affiliate commission from purchases made through links on this page. The new, 2024 vintage of crafted-in-B.C. wines continue to show up on shelves and in tasting rooms. And while these bottles will be incorporated into columns throughout the spring and summer, I thought it was worth one more focused look at a trio of bottles — and not to mention that now May has arrived, wine country touring season has kicked into full gear. This advertisement has not loaded yet, but your article continues below. THIS CONTENT IS RESERVED FOR SUBSCRIBERS ONLY Subscribe now to read the latest news in your city and across Canada. Exclusive articles by top sports columnists Patrick Johnston, Ben Kuzma, J.J. Abrams and others. Plus, Canucks Report, Sports and Headline News newsletters and events. Unlimited online access to The Province and 15 news sites with one account. The Province ePaper, an electronic replica of the print edition to view on any device, share and comment on. Daily puzzles and comics, including the New York Times Crossword. Support local journalism. SUBSCRIBE TO UNLOCK MORE ARTICLES Subscribe now to read the latest news in your city and across Canada. Exclusive articles by top sports columnists Patrick Johnston, Ben Kuzma, J.J. Abrams and others. Plus, Canucks Report, Sports and Headline News newsletters and events. Unlimited online access to The Province and 15 news sites with one account. The Province ePaper, an electronic replica of the print edition to view on any device, share and comment on. Daily puzzles and comics, including the New York Times Crossword. Support local journalism. REGISTER / SIGN IN TO UNLOCK MORE ARTICLES Create an account or sign in to continue with your reading experience. Access articles from across Canada with one account. Share your thoughts and join the conversation in the comments. Enjoy additional articles per month. Get email updates from your favourite authors. THIS ARTICLE IS FREE TO READ REGISTER TO UNLOCK. Create an account or sign in to continue with your reading experience. Access articles from across Canada with one account Share your thoughts and join the conversation in the comments Enjoy additional articles per month Get email updates from your favourite authors See Ya Later Ranch 2024 Pinot Gris ($19.99, #365633) A brief reminder: 'Crafted in BC' is the temporary program set up by the BC government to support the BC wine industry in overcoming the devastating 2024 vintage. It allows BC wineries to purchase grapes and grape juice from outside the province, to produce wines that can be sold in both stores and winery tasting rooms throughout BC. See Ya Later Ranch sourced grapes for their 2024 whites from Washington's Columbia Plateau, and their 2024 Pinot Gris maintains great, approachable fruitiness (all peach and orchard fruit) in a bright, fruit-forward and balanced style that calls to be served with impromptu gatherings and backyard BBQs. Bottom line: B, Get the grill ready. Stoneboat Vineyards 2024 Cascadia Series Pinot Blanc ($26.98, available at select private liquor stores) This advertisement has not loaded yet, but your article continues below. Oliver's Stoneboat Vineyards has dubbed their wines the Cascadia Series. Interestingly enough, so have a number of other B.C. wineries — not altogether surprising considering the shared bioregion. For their Pinot Blanc, the winery also headed to Washington State, specifically to the Yakima Valley. This is a fun, food- and crowd-pleasing wine. The aromas are austere, showing nuances of citrus, pith, and melon before an engaging core of ripe fruit. This lively white screams to be paired with fresh seafood, everything from scallops to grilled salmon. Bottom line: B+, Lively, patio-ready Blanc. Bartier Bros. 2024 Pristine Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé ($19.99, available through the winery and at select private wine stores) Washington was again the grape source for the Bartier Pristine lineup of wines, which clearly state on the label 'grown in Washington. Made in BC.' To be specific, the winery looked to the 40-year-old wines in the Soaring Eagle Vineyard located in Wahluke Slope AVA, or American Viticultural Area. Bartier actually produced a diverse number of limited-production Pristine wines, including this super fun, juicy Rosé made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon. Ample aromas of red berry, flowers, and melon kick off this generous rosé that finishes fruity and smooth. It makes for an easy food pairing partner, ready to serve with everything from tacos to grilled chicken. Bottom line: B+, Vibrant, fun Rosé. The Swirl: Langley Craft Beverage Week Time to get ready for the 3rd annual Langley craft beverage week. Running from May 9-18, the event will feature exclusive product launches, live music, and myriad activities hosted by members of the Langley Loop collaborative (comprised of independent breweries, a cider, a distillery, a tap house, and a university brewing program — all rooted in collaboration and community). There are both ticketed events and drop-in experiences, for complete details head to . Vancouver Canucks Vancouver Canucks National Columnists Local News
Forbes
30-04-2025
- Entertainment
- Forbes
The Surprising Impact Music Has On Wine Tasting
In a trial, about 2700 liters of Pinot Gris are to be exposed to classical music via a loudspeaker in an oak barrel. dpa/picture alliance via Getty Images After twenty years in the wine trade I've heard my fair share of sales propaganda. The idea that playing Bach or Brahms to the barrel improves its contents was up there with the best of it. Nevertheless, there's growing evidence that a steady flow of vibrations can help with a wine's gentle maturation and development. What's more, studies are also demonstrating that pairing music with wine can change, even improve, our perception of what's in the glass. So next time you find your Pinot Grigio too flat, or your Zinfandel too sweet, changing the playlist might help. In Puglia, Italy's heel-shaped peninsula, winemaker Pasquale Petrera has been applying what he calls 'music therapy' to his cellar. His goal is to 'emphasize the elegance, freshness and authenticity of Primitivo' by optimising the oxygenation process. This happens naturally through the wood, but he believes the additional sound waves that bounce off the cask help to move the wine particles around in a non invasive and ultimately beneficial way. Petrera plays bird song and the sound of running water, rustling leaves, wind, rain, thunder and rolling waves. Does this really make better wine? Intriguingly, his winery produces the best Primitivo in the country. Up in the north, on the shores of Lake Garda, the Olivini family have been using classical music in the cellar since its renovation in 2018. While the local white Turbiana grape doesn't require the same level of softening as a robust red, winemaker Juri Botti believes that this very subtle form of bâtonnage can create complexity and elegance, particularly for his sparkling wines that spend up to 60 months on the lees. 'When sound waves move through air, water, or earth, the vibrations affect how those molecules behave. We believe that having the yeast particles stimulated has a positive effect.' There are few scientific studies available that yield conclusive data, but on reflection, there is clearly some logic to it. In Chile's Colchagua valley, Montes has now been administering the rhythmic sounds of Gregorian chanting for 20 years. In recognition of the power of acoustics, Aurelio Montes has constructed his cellar in a semi circle to maximise the harmony imparted by these monastic tones. He has them reverberate day and night, 365 days a year. Skeptics can be skeptical, and file this pseudo Feng Shui under clever marketing, but the winery's flagship reds are frequently held up by critics as some of country's best wines. In Tuscany, Carlo Cignozzi has taken it a step further. Over 120 speakers have been installed on his Paradiso di Frassina estate in Montalcino in order to dispense those same musical vibrations over the vines themselves. Throughout the growing season he plays only Mozart, due to the composer's preference for lower frequencies. Not only do lower frequencies travel further, some believe they have natural healing capacities. In response, Cignozzi observes healthier vines and grapes with greater levels of anthocyanin. 'Not only does the music create a beneficial resonance for the plant, pathogens and pests are also put off by the sound. Mozart bothers them and they leave.' I know the feeling. Again though, gimmicks not required. Brunello almost sells itself these days. If music can move the particles in the air and meddle with vines and barrels, what effect can it have on our senses? No doubt background noise can interrupt our concentration, but the idea it can nudge, or even change our opinions is a fascinating topic. In a study titled 'Wine & Song: The Effect of Background Music on the Taste of Wine', Dr Adrian C. North of Heriot Watt University posed the question - can the thoughts primed by music influence what people actually taste? Now, as a professional wine writer and critic I'd like to think I can guard against emotional priming. Nevertheless, studies show that pairing music with wine can influence people's sensory judgements, for better or worse. North's work revealed that playing heavy music while tasting a white wine resulted in 32% more references to heavy than when tasting the same wine in silence. In the UK various experiments have been carried out on the commercial benefits of priming. In one supermarket, playing French music resulted in an increase in French wine sales. By contrast, classical music resulted in a higher average bottle price than did a random blast of the week's top 40. Susan R Lin, a Master of Wine who wrote her thesis on the influences of classical music on the perception of a Brut non-vintage Champagne, believes that depending on the definition of 'improvement', music can have a positive effect on the drinker. 'Different combinations of musical elements (pitch, tempo, articulation, timbre for example) have been shown to have effects on sensory perception. Therefore, if you are seeking to elevate the perception of certain sensory characteristics in a wine, say brightness and freshness, you might find music with faster tempo, higher pitch, dynamic articulation and bright timbre. These musical elements have been shown to be associated with these characteristics.' When it comes to tips on what to play, Lin's study suggests that playing your favourite music is enough. It's more about mood. If Metallica lifts your spirits, then that's likely to impact your perceived enjoyment just as much as Beethoven's 9th symphony. She says 'try different combinations of musical genres with wines, even if they are styles you might not normally listen to or drink! You might be surprised. The most important is to let yourself feel what your senses take in intuitively; that's where the magic begins.' The wine world is full of variables. We just love the complexity of it all. Giving credence to the role of music, both in winemaking and as we taste, expands that world further. It's only a matter of time before your next Californian Chardonnay label reads aged in oak and the rumbling sounds of the 101. Pair with sea urchin and punk rock.
Vancouver Sun
26-04-2025
- Business
- Vancouver Sun
Anthony Gismondi: White wine is on a roll, especially in France's Rhône Valley
Article content The push to white wines makes much sense to this writer, given the quality of white Rhône wines and the region's appeal globally to wine drinkers. Article content We are experiencing many of the same shifts here in B.C., and with any cooperation from the weather gods, we may be able to duplicate the success the Rhône is experiencing with most of the same grapes. Article content Marsanne, Roussanne, and Viognier are already established here. We only need a lighter, fresher white to complete the mix, giving us another blend option to join our success with Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, and Albarino. Laudun whites are few and far between currently, but other Rhône whites are available in government, private retail, and restaurant locations. Article content Article content We just tasted the '22, which was still fresh, but the '23 jumps from the glass. The blend is Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc and Roussanne. The result is pears and citrus winding through a floral opening and a mineral wet stone finish. Crisp and light, it is the perfect wine for West Coast seafood. It is listed in B.C. liquor stores and the price is a delight. Article content Gabriel Meffre Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc Cuvée Saint-Vincent 2023, Rhône Valley, France Article content We just tasted the '22, which was still fresh, but the '23 jumps from the glass. This is where the Grenache Blanc and Clairette show off, with some tempering and mouth feel from Roussanne, Marsanne, and Viognier. Look for bright floral blossoms and a dash of lees. The palate is equally finely tuned with spice and a balancing bitter note of minerality to offset the light pear, citrus and green fig fruit. Dry, elegant, and ready for spring and summer. Take your pick: scallops, soles, halibut, and sushi. They all work here. Article content Article content $23.49 I 88/100 Article content UPC: 696852145367 Article content The Poplar Grove Cascadia Series is part of the great B.C. replacement wine venture to fill the gap left by a near wipeout of the 2024 crop. This Pinot Gris came out of Washington early morning and was processed at Poplar Grove the same day. The nose is a mix of sweet nectarine and pear with a thread of red apple. The sweetness on the nose is toned down by a fresher palate with some bitter mineral notes that tie it all together in the finish. It is easy to sip and fun to drink on sunny patios all spring and summer. Article content Blue Grouse Estate Reserve Pinot Gris 2023, Cowichan Valley, Vancouver Island Article content B.C. Pinot Gris is emerging from years of fruit salad editions to something far more interesting. On Vancouver Island, that takes me to northern Italy's finest DOCs — tempered by the bitters that come with its wet stone and mineral finish. Wow, what an effort. Island seafood is the match. Complexity and length are the keys to this wine's attractiveness. This Reserve is the way forward.
