Anthony Gismondi: White wine is on a roll, especially in France's Rhône Valley
The push to white wines makes much sense to this writer, given the quality of white Rhône wines and the region's appeal globally to wine drinkers.
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We are experiencing many of the same shifts here in B.C., and with any cooperation from the weather gods, we may be able to duplicate the success the Rhône is experiencing with most of the same grapes.
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Marsanne, Roussanne, and Viognier are already established here. We only need a lighter, fresher white to complete the mix, giving us another blend option to join our success with Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, and Albarino. Laudun whites are few and far between currently, but other Rhône whites are available in government, private retail, and restaurant locations.
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We just tasted the '22, which was still fresh, but the '23 jumps from the glass. The blend is Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc and Roussanne. The result is pears and citrus winding through a floral opening and a mineral wet stone finish. Crisp and light, it is the perfect wine for West Coast seafood. It is listed in B.C. liquor stores and the price is a delight.
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Gabriel Meffre Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc Cuvée Saint-Vincent 2023, Rhône Valley, France
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We just tasted the '22, which was still fresh, but the '23 jumps from the glass. This is where the Grenache Blanc and Clairette show off, with some tempering and mouth feel from Roussanne, Marsanne, and Viognier. Look for bright floral blossoms and a dash of lees. The palate is equally finely tuned with spice and a balancing bitter note of minerality to offset the light pear, citrus and green fig fruit. Dry, elegant, and ready for spring and summer. Take your pick: scallops, soles, halibut, and sushi. They all work here.
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$23.49 I 88/100
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UPC: 696852145367
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The Poplar Grove Cascadia Series is part of the great B.C. replacement wine venture to fill the gap left by a near wipeout of the 2024 crop. This Pinot Gris came out of Washington early morning and was processed at Poplar Grove the same day. The nose is a mix of sweet nectarine and pear with a thread of red apple. The sweetness on the nose is toned down by a fresher palate with some bitter mineral notes that tie it all together in the finish. It is easy to sip and fun to drink on sunny patios all spring and summer.
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Blue Grouse Estate Reserve Pinot Gris 2023, Cowichan Valley, Vancouver Island
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B.C. Pinot Gris is emerging from years of fruit salad editions to something far more interesting. On Vancouver Island, that takes me to northern Italy's finest DOCs — tempered by the bitters that come with its wet stone and mineral finish. Wow, what an effort. Island seafood is the match. Complexity and length are the keys to this wine's attractiveness. This Reserve is the way forward.
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