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Forbes
01-04-2025
- Business
- Forbes
In Search Of A Gentler Tuscany: The Story Of Ampeleia Winery
Ampeleia's vineyards and winery afford stunning views of the nearby medieval town of Roccatederighi. Ampeleia From its hillside perch in the Colline Metallifere, Ampeleia Winery looks out over a patchwork of woodlands and olive groves. On early autumn mornings, fog gathers in the folds below the vineyards before lifting with the sun to reveal distant ridgelines. To anyone who has toured wineries in Tuscany, the setting rings of the Italian hinterland. The red-tiled rooftops of the medieval village of Roccatederighi, within view of the winery's terrace, a handy giveaway. Yet, Ampeleia, a biodynamic winery set in a lesser-traveled corner of Alta Maremma, doesn't operate by the region's expected playbook. Rather, it moves at the pace of its landscape: deliberate, adaptive, and closely attuned to its environment. Ampeleia's story begins not with a winery, but with an idea of rural life. In the 1960s, Swiss couple Erica and Peter Max Suter arrived in the hills above the village and purchased a span of abandoned land. They raised sheep and pigeons, and planted the estate's first vines, including Cabernet Franc and Merlot, long before those varieties had gained traction in the area. The estate started a new chapter in the early aughts when Elisabetta Foradori, Thomas Widmann, and Giovanni Podini acquired the property and renamed it Ampeleia. Foradori, well-known for her natural and sustainable winemaking in Alto Adige, notably with Teroldego, lent her brand of minimalism and experimentation to the project's cache. The terrace at Ampeleia Winery. Ampeleia Winery Seeing potential in Maremma's lesser-known mountains, the trio sought to create a model for thoughtful farming and expressive winemaking. In 2009, the group began the meticulous work of converting their largest vineyard holdings from organic to biodynamic farming, an effort that has since expanded to include nearly the entire estate. Today, the Podini family remain stewards of the property with Podini at the helm and Foradori serving on the board. Winemaker Marco Tait runs the cellar and calls his approach to crafting wines one of both "rigor and intuition,' which parallels their relationship with the land, which he calls both 'humble and ambitious." From the beginning, the mission was clear: to farm in a way that respected the land's complexity and create wines that spoke transparently about their origin. Tait attributes the decision to convert to biodynamics as one of practicality rather than ideology: "Biodynamics is not a philosophy for us, it's a method. Healthy soils yield vibrant vines, and vibrant vines make wines with life." The nearby medieval village of Roccatederighi. Ampeleia Winery While the estate comprises nearly 300 acres, only 86 are planted with vines. The remainder serves the flora and fauna, as well as the needs of biodynamic winegrowing through forest, pasture, and farmland. Ampeleia's location within the Colline Metallifere, a region once shaped by the mining industry, now recognized as a UNESCO Geopark, translates to mineral-rich soil. This lends a a distinct clarity to otherwise unfiltered wines. Terroir spans more than soil, however, and within Ampeleia's vineyards, altitude, slope, and aspect shift dramatically. The rumpled topography creates a range of microclimates and expressions. "Some vineyards express themselves best on their own, others when blended from the start," says Francesco Pascucci, the winery's export manager. "Each vintage teaches us something new." Sustainability efforts extend beyond the vineyard. The winery uses gravity flow in the cellar to reduce energy consumption, the viticulture team plants cover crops betweeen vines, and the entire operation runs largely on solar panels. "It's about always asking how we can do better—not just in the vineyard, but in packaging, water use, shipments, everything," says marketing manager Maria Giulia Songini. As for its wines? Cabernet Franc has become central to Ampeleia's identity, not by strategic design but through accumulated experience. "We recognized its potential early," says Tait. "It gives us layers of nuance and lets us understand how different soils shape its voice." In 2025, two single-vineyard Cabernet Francs will be released, each from a specific set of rows selected for their distinctive character. The summer garden thrives, providing ingredients for the agritourism offer. Ampeleia Winery Another key grape is Alicante Nero, which has grown in Maremma since the 1500s but was long overshadowed by higher-yielding varieties. The grape thrives in the region's Mediterranean climate, offering ripe fruit, bright acidity, and subtle spice. In the cellar, Tait gives his wines the oversight of a custodian. Fermentations begin spontaneously. Aging takes place primarily in concrete tanks. Some wines see a technqiue called infusion, where whole clusters float in the fermenting juice, releasing aroma and giving structure without force. The resulting wines are layered and expressive. Though rooted in Tuscany, Ampeleia's voice is distinct from regional tropes. "We are deeply Tuscan, but always in our own way," says Pascucci. That same ethos shapes their work abroad. Rather than adapting their wines to perceived market expectations, the team focuses on storytelling. Songini notes that Unlitro, their one-liter red blend, resonates in the U.S. because it suits a relaxed, convivial setting, whether between friends on an afternoon outing or for a family-style meal at night. "It's not about marketing. It's about sharing," says Songini. Hospitality has become an extension of this philosophy. The tasting room team welcomes visitors for seated lunches and dinners, casual bites, and wine flights or glasses on the terrace. There are several hospality experiences including a cooking class that teaches guests how to make fresh pasta and other dishes with seasonal ingredients from the garden. The tasting room sells organic soaps, olive oil, and other local, handmade products. These newer agritourism and slow-travel experiences invite guests to understand wine not just as a product, but as a medium for connection to time, place, and each other. "We don't offer tastings so much as conversations," Songini explains. "We want people to leave with a sense of why we do what we do." Making fresh pasta for the onsite restaurant and cooking classes. Ampeleia Winery Asked about the future, Tait says his winemaking will focus on refining the current portfolio rather than expanding it. Songini says they want 'to go deeper, not wider." In a region known for bold and showy gestures, this small winery offers something quieter — a gentler side to Tuscany that wine lovers in search of characterful restraint increasingly appreciate.
Forbes
31-03-2025
- Business
- Forbes
In Search Of A Gentler Tuscany: The Story Of Ampelaia Winery
Ampelaia's vineyards and winery afford stunning views of the nearby medieval town of Roccatederighi. Ampelaia Winery From its hillside perch in the Colline Metallifere, Ampelaia Winery looks out over a patchwork of woodlands and olive groves. On early autumn mornings, fog gathers in the folds below the vineyards before lifting with the sun to reveal distant ridgelines. To anyone who has toured wineries in Tuscany, the setting rings of the Italian hinterland. The red-tiled rooftops of the medieval village of Roccatederighi, within view of the winery's terrace, a handy giveaway. Yet, Ampelaia, a biodynamic winery set in a lesser-traveled corner of Alta Maremma, doesn't operate by the region's expected playbook. Rather, it moves at the pace of its landscape: deliberate, adaptive, and closely attuned to its environment. Ampelaia's story begins not with a winery, but with an idea of rural life. In the 1960s, Swiss couple Erica and Peter Max Suter arrived in the hills above the village and purchased a span of abandoned land. They raised sheep and pigeons, and planted the estate's first vines, including Cabernet Franc and Merlot, long before those varieties had gained traction in the area. The estate started a new chapter in the early aughts when Elisabetta Foradori, Thomas Widmann, and Giovanni Podini acquired the property and renamed it Ampelaia. Foradori, well-known for her natural and sustainable winemaking in Alto Adige, notably with Teroldego, lent her brand of minimalism and experimentation to the project's cache. The terrace at Ampelaia Winery. Ampelaia Winery Seeing potential in Maremma's lesser-known mountains, the trio sought to create a model for thoughtful farming and expressive winemaking. In 2009, the group began the meticulous work of converting their largest vineyard holdings from organic to biodynamic farming, an effort that has since expanded to include nearly the entire estate. Today, the Podini family remain stewards of the property with Podini at the helm and Foradori serving on the board. Winemaker Marco Tait runs the cellar and calls his approach to crafting wines one of both "rigor and intuition,' which parallels their relationship with the land, which he calls both 'humble and ambitious." From the beginning, the mission was clear: to farm in a way that respected the land's complexity and create wines that spoke transparently about their origin. Tait attributes the decision to convert to biodynamics as one of practicality rather than ideology: "Biodynamics is not a philosophy for us, it's a method. Healthy soils yield vibrant vines, and vibrant vines make wines with life." The nearby medieval village of Roccatederighi. Ampelaia Winery While the estate comprises nearly 300 acres, only 86 are planted with vines. The remainder serves the flora and fauna, as well as the needs of biodynamic winegrowing through forest, pasture, and farmland. Ampelaia's location within the Colline Metallifere, a region once shaped by the mining industry, now recognized as a UNESCO Geopark, translates to mineral-rich soil. This lends a a distinct clarity to otherwise unfiltered wines. Terroir spans more than soil, however, and within Ampelaia's vineyards, altitude, slope, and aspect shift dramatically. The rumpled topography creates a range of microclimates and expressions. "Some vineyards express themselves best on their own, others when blended from the start," says Francesco Pascucci, the winery's export manager. "Each vintage teaches us something new." Sustainability efforts extend beyond the vineyard. The winery uses gravity flow in the cellar to reduce energy consumption, the viticulture team plants cover crops betweeen vines, and the entire operation runs largely on solar panels. "It's about always asking how we can do better—not just in the vineyard, but in packaging, water use, shipments, everything," says marketing manager Maria Giulia Songini. As for its wines? Cabernet Franc has become central to Ampelaia's identity, not by strategic design but through accumulated experience. "We recognized its potential early," says Tait. "It gives us layers of nuance and lets us understand how different soils shape its voice." In 2025, two single-vineyard Cabernet Francs will be released, each from a specific set of rows selected for their distinctive character. The summer garden thrives, providing ingredients for the agritourism offer. Ampelaia Winery Another key grape is Alicante Nero, which has grown in Maremma since the 1500s but was long overshadowed by higher-yielding varieties. The grape thrives in the region's Mediterranean climate, offering ripe fruit, bright acidity, and subtle spice. In the cellar, Tait gives his wines the oversight of a custodian. Fermentations begin spontaneously. Aging takes place primarily in concrete tanks. Some wines see a technqiue called infusion, where whole clusters float in the fermenting juice, releasing aroma and giving structure without force. The resulting wines are layered and expressive. Though rooted in Tuscany, Ampelaia's voice is distinct from regional tropes. "We are deeply Tuscan, but always in our own way," says Pascucci. That same ethos shapes their work abroad. Rather than adapting their wines to perceived market expectations, the team focuses on storytelling. Songini notes that Unlitro, their one-liter red blend, resonates in the U.S. because it suits a relaxed, convivial setting, whether between friends on an afternoon outing or for a family-style meal at night. "It's not about marketing. It's about sharing," says Songini. Hospitality has become an extension of this philosophy. The tasting room team welcomes visitors for seated lunches and dinners, casual bites, and wine flights or glasses on the terrace. There are several hospality experiences including a cooking class that teaches guests how to make fresh pasta and other dishes with seasonal ingredients from the garden. The tasting room sells organic soaps, olive oil, and other local, handmade products. These newer agritourism and slow-travel experiences invite guests to understand wine not just as a product, but as a medium for connection to time, place, and each other. "We don't offer tastings so much as conversations," Songini explains. "We want people to leave with a sense of why we do what we do." Making fresh pasta for the onsite restaurant and cooking classes. Ampelaia Winery Asked about the future, Tait says his winemaking will focus on refining the current portfolio rather than expanding it. Songini says they want 'to go deeper, not wider." In a region known for bold and showy gestures, this small winery offers something quieter — a gentler side to Tuscany that wine lovers in search of characterful restraint increasingly appreciate.
Yahoo
31-03-2025
- Yahoo
Forest bathing and hay baths: 5 innovative wellness retreats in the Dolomites
At 95°F, the air is charged with a tangerine tang as a man twists and whirls a towel like a whip, unleashing blasts of hot air to the beat of jungle drums. This is Aufguss: a multi-sensory sauna ritual that's part purification, part fever-dream. Deep in the Dolomites — the UNESCO-capped mountains — wellness has long been part of the landscape itself. Here, ancient remedies are reimagined with a contemporary twist and a touch of the surreal, all infused with the rugged spirit of the Alps. The journey begins in Bolzano, capital of South Tyrol and gateway to the Dolomites. A melting pot of Italian and German culture, locals toast beer and wine in Piazza Walther, savor boiled dumplings at Batzen Häusl, and cycle down cobblestone streets beneath sweeping mountains. Its most famous resident, Ötzi the Iceman, can be seen in the Museum of Archaeology Bolzano, a 5,300-year-old glacier mummy who was discovered complete with a pair of prehistoric hiking boots. It all feels like a fairytale, particularly when approaching Hotel Castel Hörtenberg, a luxurious hotel-spa set in a former Renaissance castle complete with turrets and a coat of arms. Carefully restored by the Podini family owners, it's now a blend of luxury and history. Period frescoes and original stucco adorn the suites; guests can dine in their torch-lit dungeon restaurant, Le Segrete; and unwind in a spa complete with a Finnish sauna and hammam, overlooking an expansive outdoor pool nestled between jasmine and hydrangeas. It's the perfect Alpine launch pad. (Related: Why choose the Alps for your next summer adventure) The bus from Bolzano snakes along orchard-lined rivers and tight mountain switchbacks to Siusi, where a gondola whisks residents up to COMO Alpina Dolomites. There's a certain thrill the first time one catches sight of the snow, as mottled green turns to blinding white. This ski-in, ski-out resort has direct access to the slopes, with an elegant lounge showcasing magnificent views of Europe's highest Alpine plateau. The modernist building reflects its surroundings, with immense windows flooding the space with light; even the beds are turned down to form mountain peaks. Three restaurants offer refined takes on local classics, like the Tyrolean Gröstl — roasted potatoes, speck, eggs, and dried flowers — an indulgence well worth waking up for. Adventure-seekers will find incredible skiing, hiking, and more directly on their doorstep, but COMO is synonymous with spa treatments. Signature therapies include their Shambhala massage and the "traditional hay bath," described as an "ancient mountain wellness treatment." After warming themselves with a sip of ginger tea, guests are led into a dedicated space to be plunged into a bath of hot hay, a practice long hailed by South Tyrolean farmers as a cure for arthritis and aching muscles. The air hangs heavy with herbal flowers and balsamic scents, and feels like a pungent weighted blanket. This unique experience concludes with a rejuvenating goat milk cream facial, leaving participants refreshed and renewed. For the more daring, COMO offers nightly Aufguss sauna rituals, a sweltering show that pairs fierce steam, tribal music, and biting scents of lavender, mint, and citrus released from melting, essential-oil laden snowballs. It's a sensory experience that creates a profound sense of tranquility. Accessible only by gondola from nearby Lana, Vigilius Mountain Resort is a high-altitude, eco-friendly hideaway. With monastic solemnity, clients are compelled to pause and let the Alps work their restorative magic. Designed by architect Matteo Thun with nature at its core, Vigilius brings together clean lines, local larch wood, natural stone, and clay so that it appears as if the hotel completely disappears into the surrounding forest. The property features the authentic Stube Ida, open to visiting hikers, and a communal piazza that hosts nightly aperitivo. In an effort to encourage genuine disconnection, Wi-Fi is disabled at 11 p.m., leaving guests to enjoy a fire-lit library. At Vigilius, massages feel elemental: Delivered with heated wooden sticks and sculpted stones applied with warm pine oil. Guided woodland walks (complete with crampons) reveal the wavering rhythms and folkloric histories of every tree, rock, and fern. For those who want to venture higher still, an almost otherworldly single-seater chairlift transports visitors through the trees to San Vigilio Church, one of the highest in all of Tyrol, a place steeped in quiet, ancient mysticism. Further south in Pinzolo, Lefay Resort & SPA Dolomiti stands as a cathedral to wellness. Carved into the mountains, it feels effortlessly lavish, with stunning views at every turn and an enormous state-of-the-art spa with four distinct water areas. The temptation on arrival is to make a beeline for the heated indoor-outdoor pool, where a warm haze veils Trentino's pine-topped peaks. Lefay's philosophy is centered around harmonizing yin and yang: the Active and Balance program springs from movement and rest, taking you into the wild before back into relaxation. Inspired by traditional Chinese medicine, it merges the five elements with an Alpine sensibility and begins the moment you arrive. There's a consultation, a custom itinerary, and a tacit request to give yourself to the process. In the morning, balance takes on a new meaning: A guided snowshoe alpine ascent fills the lungs with crisp, mountain air. Upon reaching a frozen mountain lake, guests are invited to embrace the snow, be it face-first, shirt off, or a full immersion cold plunge. The shock is electric, inciting sharp breaths that reveal mental clarity. After a few moments standing in the blinding snow, heart bounding, sun blazing, it's time to descend back down to Lefay where warmth and stillness await. In the afternoon, it's a float in a saltwater pool, weightless and adrift with whatever epiphanies might surface. Perched atop of Merano, Miramonti Boutique Hotel feels like a cinematic world unto itself. It's no surprise that it's not far from where James Bond once dodged assassins on skis: This landscape was made for high drama. Born from the shared dream of Carmen and Klaus Alber, the hotel exudes a warm, Nordic aesthetic which mirrors its rugged surroundings. The Sky House sits at its peak, a suite anchored into the rock. Spanning three floors, it features an open fireplace and a secluded deck concealing a hot pot pool. Furnished with Fritz-Hansen furniture and centered around ineffable views, it's the pinnacle of Alpine relaxation. The spa feels like a constellation scattered across the wilderness, offering a network of timbered walkways leading to a steaming onsen, an infinity pool that hovers on the edge of the world, and a spacious Finnish sauna with floor-to-ceiling windows framing the Alps. At dinner, the panoramic restaurant is like looking at the world from an airplane, the lights of Merano valley twinkling distantly below. Among their many offerings, guests can experience the art of forest bathing with therapist Monika Laner, a practice which fosters a deep connection with nature by way of a mindful walk. There's a tree greeting ritual which involves shaking hands with a spruce, wrapping one's arms around its bark like an old friend, and communing deeply. Sipping pine needle tea in arboreal silence, participants find accord with the intimate acoustics of the surrounding snow. A small pine cone is offered as a memento as a reminder of the day's lesson. In the Dolomites, relaxation is something earned through transformative experiences. Be it sweated out in extreme heat, buried in steaming hay, or plunged face-first in the snow, the mountains strip everything away until only clarity remains. Balance isn't found, it's felt — in the heat, the cold, the silence. If you're lucky, you get to bring it home. (Related: Why this Austrian Alpine town is forever linked to James Bond) Rupert Clague is a director, producer, and writer drawn to extraordinary people in unexpected places. He's filmed with Indigenous Peruvian tribes and Vietnamese shamans, been on ride-alongs in Arizona and down a waterslide with Jeff Goldblum. Based in Paris, he's currently directing a feature documentary about transcendental pianist Lubomyr Melnyk.
