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Telegraph
6 days ago
- Telegraph
The perfect holiday in Goa, India's sun-soaked southern state
Think of India and the first image will likely be that of the Taj Mahal or one of Jaipur's grand palaces. But further south, consider Goa – a state that's unlike the rest of India, thanks to its charming 100-mile coastline, laid-back lifestyle, heritage mansions, unique Portuguese-influenced cuisine and verdant countryside. Goa is no stranger to international tourists, thanks to the influx of hippies in the Sixties and Seventies. Hollywood even made its mark here, with films, including The Bourne Supremacy and the lesser-known Roger Moore title The Sea Wolves being shot in the region. The international influence is deeply rooted among locals too, with many Goans bearing Portuguese – once the language of the elite and trade – names. Today, Goa retains its appeal as India's vibrant spiritual paradise. Beyond the sandy beaches, Goa's rich, eclectic past comes to life in the likes of Panjim's Latin Quarter, Fontainhas, where you walk past century-old bakeries, or, further east in Old Goa, home to the Basilica of Bom Jesus, a prominent Unesco-listed pilgrimage site. Here's how to explore. For more Goa inspiration, see our guides to the region's best hotels, restaurants, bars, beaches and things to do. In this guide: How to spend the perfect day Morning Choosing a place to base yourself in Goa can present a dilemma, as the north and south are distinctively different. Keeping Panjim (also known as Panaji), the capital, as your base, you can make short trips in both directions. Start with a walk in Fontainhas, Panjim's Latin Quarter – a charming neighbourhood dotted with old Portuguese, mustard-hued heritage homes, with bougainvillaea trees and terracotta-tiled rooftops. Note: Many display signs requesting visitors not to take photographs, to curb the number of visitors posing simply for social media. Through the labyrinth of narrow lanes, you'll come across kaleidoscopic murals and classic Goan tavernas, like Joseph Bar and century-old bakeries like Confeitaria 31 de Janeiro and Mr Baker 1922. Stop for breakfast at the former, where you can grab a Goan pork choris sandwich or one of the local cakes, such as dodol or bebinca, and dine al fresco on the patio. You may cross paths with poders – Goa's iconic bread sellers on bicycles, who carry an array of local bread in their baskets. Their distinct horn is well recognised across the state, and despite the rise in modern bakeries, these wood-fired breads are still popular in local households and restaurants.
The Guardian
14-05-2025
- General
- The Guardian
How to turn old bread into a classic Portuguese soup
Today's punchy and bright-green garlic and coriander soup is an intriguing Portuguese way to use up stale bread. The recipe is adapted from the traditional açorda of Alentejo, where it's thought of as the region's signature dish. Açorda is said to have been born from necessity, a waste-saving and resourceful soup that's transformed by olive oil, plentiful herbs and rich egg. I find this take on it particularly interesting because, instead of simmering the coriander, garlic and egg in hot broth, they are instead put in a bowl and the broth is poured over them. This enhances the powerful flavours of the garlic and coriander, and the whole lot is then ladled over stale bread. For a vegetarian version, just omit the fish. This is a chunky, fragrant and very flavourful soup. A fresh egg is gently cooked by the residual heat of the broth, and thickens the soup along with the bread, giving it a wonderful viscosity. Although a traditional Portuguese stock for açorda might be made with vegetables or bacalau (salt cod), in the spirit of this column, and because they are delicious and often free (or at least very cheap) from most fishmongers, I've chosen to make my version with cod's head. It's a humble cut, but deeply flavoured and ideal for stocks. Don't get me wrong, this is a delicious soup when it's vegetarian, but any omnivores who do add a cod's head will be rewarded by an extra-savoury, umami-rich and gelatinous fish broth. Serves 4–6 1kg cod's head, rinsed and gills removed1 bay leaf Vegetable scraps 5 eggs Salt and black pepper 100g bunch coriander4 garlic cloves, peeled100ml extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra to serve200g stale bread (for example, ciabatta, sourdough or pão alentejano), torn into pieces4 pieces of toast, to serve (optional) For a vegetarian take on this soup, simply omit the fish. Put the cleaned cod's head in a large saucepan with one and a half litres of water, the bay leaf and any vegetable scraps you have to hand. Bring to a boil, turn down the heat and simmer gently for 30 minutes, skimming off any foam that rises on the surface. After 25 minutes, drop in four unshelled eggs, cook for five minutes, then lift out the boiled eggs and the cod's head and put to one side. Strain the broth, then return it to the pan. Once the cod is cool enough to handle, pick off any good flakes of meat, add to the strained broth, season to taste and keep warm. Meanwhile, tear the stale bread into four bowls. Finely chop the coriander from stem to leaf, then put it in a large bowl. Finely chop the four garlic cloves, add to the coriander and pour in the extra-virgin olive oil. Crack in the remaining egg and beat until well combined. Pour the hot broth into the coriander bowl, stir, then ladle the soup over the torn bread and serve with the boiled eggs and optional toast on the side.
