Latest news with #Pucci
Business of Fashion
14-05-2025
- Business
- Business of Fashion
Mytheresa Reports Slower Sales Growth
Even online luxury's most stable force isn't immune to industry headwinds. Mytheresa's sales grew a paltry 4 percent to €243 million ($273 million) in the quarter that ended in March, down from the 13 percent growth it reported in the previous quarter and the 18 percent increase it saw during the same period last year. The slowdown was driven, in part, by a lower sales uptick in the US — previously one of the German e-tailer's strongest markets — which increased 4 percent during the quarter; revenue in the region rose 18 percent in the prior quarter. The results marked the end of a hot streak for the e-tailer, which generated more than 10 percent growth in three of its last four quarters despite a broader luxury slump. Still, the company's focus on wooing top spending clients with 'money-can't-buy' experiences like visits to Alaia's knitwear factory or intimate cocktails with Pucci's creative director, Camille Miceli, continues to pay off elsewhere in the business: its average spend per top customer grew 18 percent; and its average order value jumped 9 percent to €753 during the quarter. With top customers spending more per transaction, and returning less frequently, Mytheresa maintained a healthy 4 percent profit margin on its adjusted earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortisation. While Mytheresa's slower US growth predates the higher tariffs imposed by US President Donald Trump in April, it's a symptom of shifting consumer behaviour that was already underway. Consumer sentiment in the US dropped 18 percent year over year in the first three months of 2025 amid prolonged recession fears, according to the University of Michigan, which has only been exacerbated by tariff turmoil. Mytheresa now expects sales growth for its fiscal year, which ends in June, to land closer to 7 percent than the previous stretch goal of 13 percent, said Michael Kliger, the company's chief executive. 'I don't have any specific understanding of what will happen in the next two months other than uncertainty, and that is a problem,' Kliger said. 'What is really needed for companies to operate and for consumers to adapt to is stability.' Mytheresa's ability to retain profitable growth is more important than ever as it enters the most critical period in its history. In April, the company completed its acquisition of former rival Yoox Net-a-Porter. The combined quantity, now called LuxExperience, is expected to generate €4 billion in gross merchandise value by 2029, making it the biggest player in online luxury. To get there, LuxExperience has to recharge sales growth at YNAP — the company's sales dropped 15 percent in the quarter that ended last June. LuxExperience is enlisting the help of former employees for that turnaround: Toby Bateman and Jeremy Langmead — founding members at Mr Porter — are returning to the site as chief executive and brand director, respectively; Net-a-Porter's former vice president of global marketing and Mytheresa's North American president, Heather Kaminetsky, will succeed Alison Loehnis as CEO. LuxExperience will announce its post-acquisition plans to investors on Thursday. 'What [investors] want to know in regard to LuxExperience is not what will you do in the next three months,' Kliger said, 'they want to know what is the plan for the next three years.'
Forbes
14-04-2025
- Business
- Forbes
Christian Louboutin Launches Eyewear In Partnership With Marcolin
The brand that made feet sex symbols is now aiming for the same glammed-up vamp look for the eyes. Enter Christian Louboutin's newly launched eyewear and optical offerings in partnership with Marcolin, the Italian eyewear giant that also produces designer frames for Tom Ford and Pucci but also more mass brands such as Abercrombie & Fitch, Kenneth Cole and Adidas Originals. The launch comes as the firm appointed a new US CEO, Marco D'Acunzo, an executive in the automotive, sport, and hospitality industries who was most recently with Piaggio Italian scooters. The collection features a total of nine sunglass styles in various colorways and four optical styles; the brand will retail from approximately $625 to $875 with distribution on and select Christian Louboutin boutiques and at Saks Fifth Avenue stores, with the retailer erecting a special window display for the shades debut. According to a release, the offerings include women's and men's styles and draw inspiration from Christian Louboutin's work in pursuit of the 'perfect structural lines. 'The eyewear range includes new ZEISS lenses, which provide crystal-clear, comfortable vision thanks to anti-reflective coatings, glare reduction, and durability treatments. Described as a collection of 'modern luxury' according to a company spokesperson, the styles blend acetate and metal trims and mechanics. Brand codes are present as a row of teeny spikes on a pair of oversized Navigator frames; minuscule red sole hardware adorns the frames of Art-Deco cat and oval styles. Mesh patterns on bridges and temples recall the designer's fishnet-inspired styles on the Roller and So Kate styles. At the same time, red details appear as linear accents on the exterior and interiors of the frames, such as the Georges or Greggo 2 frames. Some styles take 'rose-colored' glasses to a new level with cherry red lenses, as seen on a version of the Miss Z. Many details also mimic the brand's beauty offerings. A new men's Christian Louboutin eyewear style. Photo Courtesy of Marcolin for Christian Louboutin eyewear "This collection is more than just an eyewear launch—it's the fusion of two creative worlds, bringing Christian Louboutin's signature artistry into a new category. It was born from a shared passion for design excellence and iconic luxury, combining Louboutin's unmistakable vision with Marcolin's ability to create a bold, elegant, and instantly recognizable collection," said Marcolin Group Style and Product Development Director Lara Marogne. To celebrate, the brand invited VIPs such as Diane Kruger, Olivia Palermo, Francesca Scorsese, Jeremy Pope, and Law Roach to downtown hot spot The Nines, which is bathed in red décor and lighting for sultry soirée. Guests were treated to the captivating song stylings of Chloe Flower, an American classical pianist who twists the music form but combines it with contemporary music. As guests stood around the baby grand piano where she performed, sipping champagne and specialty cocktails, Flower joked that she had never played piano in sunglasses but was a die-hard fan who wears Louboutin shoes to play in. Before and after the performance, DJ Isabella Massanet, daughter of Net-A-Porter founder Natalie Massenet, offered a smooth and groovy soundtrack while guests had the opportunity to try on the shades.
Yahoo
04-04-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Emilio Pucci Spring 2025: A Show With a View
PORTOFINO, Italy — Stocks globally may be tanking and the fashion industry may be coming to terms with the new wave of Trump tariffs, but leave it to Pucci and artistic director Camille Miceli to bring a whiff of much-needed respite with her joyful and colorful designs. Miceli chose the stunning La Cervara, a former abbey on the coastal road to Portofino, for her spring 2025 show. First erected in the 12th century, the abbey complex is a designated National Monument of Italy, with a breathtaking view of the Tigullio Gulf, an Italian Renaissance-style garden that directly faces the sea and a wisteria pergola. Miceli timed the show for around 230 guests shortly before sunset, leading to numerous Instagrammable moments. More from WWD How Much Will Hermès Birkins, Chanel Flap Bags and Fendi Baguettes Cost After Trump's Tariffs Hit European Imports? The Power of Flowers Celebrated in Paris New York Fashion Designer Kenny Bonavitacola Dies at 71 It was the ideal setting for her fashion show, centered on the Marmo, a marble-like print she revived since her first collection in 2022, and inspired by the reflection of the sun onto the sea. This season, the print was revisited in soft sorbet and powder pink hues, winding around black waves on flowing silk pants and shirts. It was also reproduced through printed sequins or metal eyelets and through black and white sea shells, hand-stitched by the Pucci artisans — still at work backstage, sewing one shell at a time on a blouson top or a fringed skirt. In fact, for this collection Miceli raised the bar on craftsmanship, for a sophisticated lineup that featured more black than in past lineups. Pucci's signature prints were recurring, but at times merely details on the hem of a sleeve of a little black dress or appearing through the fringes of a dress or a cape. The Stella print, an homage to the moon and the stars, and the Maddalena, or 'gocciolone,' reminiscent of an expanded drop, defined by sleek and graphic curves, appeared on a caftan or a minidress. Iride and Orchidee were also signature prints that Miceli revisited. 'I change the colors but never the names,' said the designer, who always pays tribute to founder Emilio Pucci. Miceli said she wanted her designs to look airy, with fluid shapes, and she worked with 'disproportions,' narrower skirts under larger 'balloon' blouses in poplin cotton. 'I like the idea of the trompe-l'oeil; they look like two pieces, but it's actually one dress,' she said. She also created silver bijoux that looked like tattoos on the skin, reproducing the marble print. 'I remember how Karl [Lagerfeld] said that when you wear Pucci, it's as if you have a tattoo,' remarked Miceli. The laces of the sandals also wove around the models' legs, looking like tattoos. Miceli staged her first runway show for Pucci in Florence in 2023, following up with Rome last year. Before that, she opted for multiday lifestyle 'experiences' in such jet-set destinations as Capri and Saint Moritz — resort towns that, like Portofino, have attracted European aristocracy and the international jet-set since the 1950s. Asked about this location, Miceli said she had wanted to stage a show in a home 'for some time' — although the estate, now privately owned, is not your average abode. 'I know this was an abbey, but for me, I see it as the house of the Pucci woman. The gardens, the view, what more do you want? And I love the small stones of the black and white floor.' Indeed, while reminiscent of the marble print, she said she does not design her collections with a location in mind. Reflecting on the changing habits of consumers, Miceli said 'we are very lucky because things are going very well — knock on wood — and I think women come to Pucci because when they wear the brand they want to feel special, they don't want to be part of a uniform crowd, and this is increasingly so compared with the past. And also because Pucci is synonymous with joy and femininity.' America continues to be a very strong market for Pucci, which will open a store in Houston this month. The Portofino boutique was just redesigned with the help of architect Pierre Passebon. Keeping prices in check and in line with the brand is also key for Miceli, targeting different women — which was reflected both in the casting that also included the likes of Kristen McMenamy, Karen Elson and Naomi Campbell, who closed the show — and in the pool of young influencers dancing in their seats to the the soundtrack by Nada. 'I like how Pucci has a very clear identity,' said Pierre-Emmanuel Angeloglou, who was named deputy chief executive officer of Christian Dior Couture last month. (Pucci is controlled by LVMH Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy). 'The challenge is to always bring novelty to the brand respecting its identity, maintaining its lightness, accessibility, joy, and sophisticated femininity that I find beautiful. And Camille transmits a laid back attitude and an energy that is contagious.' The executive, speaking ahead of the show, also talked about the see now, buy now format for Pucci, 'fitting for the brand, which has its own visibility outside the fashion weeks' schedule. And how perfect to be able to show when the days get sunnier, in a beautiful location and you can choose to wear these [summery] clothes right away.' Marisa Berenson also enthused about the show, 'beautiful and brilliant. Camille is so talented and creative, she modernized the brand but kept the Pucci DNA.' She was also happy about returning to Portofino. 'It brings back so many wonderful memories for me; I've been here many times in the past when I was young,' she mused. Wearing a stunning necklace in mother -of-pearl and crystals, she said it was part of her own namesake jewelry line. 'I live in Marrakech now so I make them there. I regenerate there, where I have a little corner of paradise but then I love being out in the world,' she said. Berenson next week will be in Milan as Michela Bruni Reichlin will be selling her jewelry in her showroom on Via Montenapoleone. She is also in the middle of filming between Paris and the south of France a movie she described as a 'psychological investigation.' Launch Gallery: Pucci Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection Best of WWD Windowsen RTW Spring 2022 Louis Shengtao Chen RTW Spring 2022 Vegan Fashion Week Returns to L.A. With Nous Etudions, Vegan Tiger on the Runway
