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Telegraph
24-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Telegraph
Fashion designer Norma Kamali: ‘I am completely smitten with AI'
Stories of lonely internet users striking up relationships with AI chatbots are not exactly uncommon these days. But a new kind of human-AI relationship is emerging, with the potential to revolutionise the way our clothes are designed and made. A study from Pusan National University in South Korea has found that generative AI – the kind that creates new content in response to human prompts – could help predict emerging fashion trends and improve design efficiency, although only with 'expert guidance'. Some designers are already harnessing generative AI during the design process, including fashion veteran Norma Kamali and Brazilian talent Patricia Bonaldi. Matthew Drinkwater, Head of the London College of Fashion's Innovation Agency, sees this as a 'profound technological shift', rather than a passing trend. 'Designers are experimenting with AI at every stage of creation,' he says. 'Text-to-image generators, for instance, are allowing them to visualise outfits, patterns, or fabrics simply by describing them. This generative process has become a new kind of sketching: an interactive dialogue between human and machine. Designers are using these tools as creative partners, bouncing ideas off algorithms and receiving unexpected silhouettes, cuts or colour combinations in return.' Kamali, who founded her eponymous brand in 1967, is vocal in her praise. 'I am completely smitten with AI,' she says. 'It's as seductive as a bad boyfriend: exciting to spend time with, doing things you never did before, and on the edge and threat of danger at the same time.' The designer, who is known for innovations including the 'Sleeping Bag Coat' as well as draped dresses whose fans include Sarah Jessica Parker, has recently created a custom AI programme with Maison Meta, a creative AI agency, to support her design process. The programme has been 'trained' exclusively on Kamali's archive and currently generates surreal, distorted images that the designer uses as a source of inspiration. She presented the initial results in an autumn 2025 collection installation called 'Fashion Hallucinations', and plans to train the programme further to conserve something of her process. 'I want to marry it to my business and the potential longevity of my brand beyond me,' she says. 'Not unlike Karl Lagerfeld and Chanel, where he used her archive respectfully and skilfully, carrying Chanel forward into newer times and for generations beyond her lifetime.' Lagerfeld himself was no luddite when it came to advancing technology. Lest we forget that a key source of inspiration for the 2016 Met Gala and accompanying exhibition Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology was a Chanel wedding ensemble from the house's autumn 2014 haute couture collection. It featured a 20-foot train that combined hand-painting and embroidery with machine-printed rhinestones. 'Perhaps it used to matter if a dress was handmade or machine-made, at least in the haute couture, but now things are completely different,' said Lagerfeld in the show's notes. 'The digital revolution has changed the world.' Long before the advent of AI, fashion was exploring the intersection between clothes crafted by hand and clothes made by machines, asking whether the two tools were really so discordant. Futuristic fashion has always held a unique allure for designers, from the retro futurism of the Sixties to memorable moments in contemporary catwalk shows. Perhaps the most famous of the latter came when model Shalom Harlow's white dress was spray-painted by robotic arms at the end of Alexander McQueen 's SS99 show. McQueen's catwalk stunts continued, from an LED dress suit at Givenchy to a Kate Moss hologram in 2006. Then there was the advent of 3D printing, with Dutch designer Iris van Herpern, known for cutting-edge designs, becoming the first to show printed garments on the catwalk in 2010. Fast forward to 2025 and we've seen a bionic baby crafted from Swarovski crystals and old flip phones at Schiaparelli, and flirtatious robotic dogs and a spray-on dress modelled by Bella Hadid at Coperni. Another designer embracing evolving technology is Patricia Bonaldi, founder and creative director of PatBo, a line of evening and beachwear that's been worn by glamorous figures including Beyoncé and Jennifer Lopez. Taught to sew by her mother and so invested in artisanal craft that she's opened a school for local women in her hometown of Uberlândia, Brazil, Bonaldi is the type of designer you'd expect to be resistant to the use of artificial intelligence in the creative process – but you'd be wrong. She is, in fact, a self-confessed 'AI nerd', who's become an expert on Midjourney, another generative AI programme that creates visual content from prompts. 'It's a co-creation,' she says, speaking to The Telegraph as her brand launched in Harrods earlier this summer. 'It's not that you type something in and then it will appear there for you like magic. If it were that easy, everybody would have their own brand. I'm using it to amplify my creativity and other people's skill.' Some projects are sacred, of course; Bonaldi didn't use AI when designing the fringed silver bodysuit Beyoncé wore during her Renaissance tour, which she says changed her life overnight. But she does create some digital designs on Midjourney, which are then transformed into fabric samples by hand. She also digitises existing patterns and tests out modifications to designs – patterns, cuts, materials – before committing to making them. This raises another compelling point in the case for AI: its potential to revolutionise production and supply chain. 'Through tools such as 3D design platforms and virtual try-ons, garments can be conceptualised, visualised, and tested on digital models long before they ever reach a cutting table,' says Drinkwater. 'This ability to pre-sample garments in virtual space doesn't just accelerate the creative cycle, it reduces waste dramatically.' Will this sustainability come at the expense of human jobs? It's a legitimate fear, felt by everyone from models and make-up artists to set designers and cutters. Among those proceeding with caution is Patrick McDowell, the emerging British designer who this year received the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design. 'Clothing is a very physical business, it relies on human touch – the complexity of the supply chain and material choice means, as yet, no machine can replicate master craftsmanship,' says McDowell. 'I think we have to see AI as an opportunity to further develop our creative vision, but as more intellectual processes are replaced by it, I feel that craft and the ability to be a master craftsperson will be the most coveted and desirable skill.' It seems likely that Kamali and Bonaldi, despite being 'smitten' with rapidly advancing technology, would agree with McDowell's sentiment. They're adamant that AI is an extension of and aid for human skill, rather than a replacement. 'The result isn't the erasure of originality, but an expansion of it,' says Drinkwater. 'It's not about automation, but augmentation.' Resisting this augmentation can seem as futile as it did when the internet made its rapid ascent to an integral part of everyday life. Proponents believe that the fashion industry is ready for another seismic shift. 'Fashion has always evolved through its ability to absorb new materials, methods and aesthetics,' says Drinkwater. 'AI is the next material, and the designers who learn to work with it, not around it, will be the ones who shape fashion's future.' A short history of futuristic fashion The relationship between AI and fashion may be in its infancy, but the industry's love affair with all things futuristic is longstanding. Some of these mould-breaking designs and memorable moments are more science fiction than science fact, but each has shaped the industry as it is at present.
Fibre2Fashion
24-07-2025
- Fibre2Fashion
Generative AI to revolutionise fashion design: Research
Generative artificial intelligence (AI) has the potential to revolutionise fashion design. By recognising patterns in data and generating new text and images, AI models powered by deep learning algorithms can help fashion designers develop new catalogues, expanding creativity and helping bring products to market faster, as per a study by Pusan National University. Large language models (LLMs) like ChatGPT and AI image generators like DALL-E have shown promising results across industries and popularised the use of AI. In fashion, LLMs can help designers and non-experts understand past styles and predict future fashion trends. These insights can then generate prompts for AI image generators to produce real fashion collections. As such, it is increasingly important to understand how AI can be effectively integrated into fashion. In a recent study, professor Yoon Kyung Lee and master's student Chaehi Ryu, from the Department of Clothing and Textiles at Pusan National University, South Korea, explored how generative AI can contribute to visualising seasonal fashion trends. "To use AI effectively in fashion, we must understand the characteristics of generative AI models and make informed judgements of where they can be applied," explained. Lee. "In this study, we studied how effective prompt engineering can be used to generate realistic fashion collection images through AI." A study by Pusan National University shows that generative AI, using tools like ChatGPT and DALL-E 3, can help visualise and predict fashion trends. By analysing past data and crafting precise prompts, AI generated realistic Fall/Winter 2024 men's fashion images. While effective, limitations remain, highlighting the need for expert input. Using ChatGPT-3.5 and ChatGPT-4, the researchers first analysed men's fashion trends, based on historical data up to September 2021. From this, they used ChatGPT to predict men's fashion trends for Fall/Winter 2024. Design elements from these predictions were classified as 'initial codes'. In addition, design elements from Vogue's 2024 Fall/Winter Men's Fashion Trend data were used as 'modified codes', and those from literature as 'codes from literature'. These were then regrouped into six final codes: trends, silhouette elements, materials, key items, garment details, and embellishments. Using these codes, they created 35 prompts for DALL-E 3, each describing a unique outfit. The prompts followed a consistent template featuring a male model walking down a runway at a 2024 Fall/Winter fashion show. The template allowed customisation of event details, including aspect ratios, events, camera angles, model appearance and height, runway design, background, and audience details, and moods. Each prompt was run three times, generating a total of 105 images. DALL-E 3 was able to perfectly implement the prompts 67.6 per cent of the time. Prompts with adjectives demonstrated a high implementation rate. Some generated images closely resembled actual 2024 Fall/Winter Men's fashion collections. However, there were errors—most leaned toward ready-to-wear fashion, and DALL-E struggled with trend elements like gender fluidity. Trend keywords alone were insufficient to generate accurate results, indicating a need for further learning. "Our results show that expertly worded prompts are necessary for accurate fashion design implementation of generative AI, highlighting the important role of fashion experts," added Lee. "With further learning and improvements, generative AI models like DALL-E 3 will help fashion designers create entire fashion collections more efficiently, while supporting their creativity, and also help non-experts understand fashion trends." The study shows that generative AI can be a powerful tool not just for professionals but also for the general public, making it easier than ever to explore, predict, and style the upcoming season's fashion with confidence. Fibre2Fashion News Desk (RR)
Yahoo
18-07-2025
- Science
- Yahoo
Safer, long-lasting lithium battery built with breakthrough method to boost EV efficiency
Scientists have developed a novel approach that can help create safer and long-lasting lithium-ion batteries. Combined with an automated reactor system, the mathematical x-framework allows unlimited customization of full concentration gradient (FCGs) with independent parameter control, leading to lithium-ion batteries (LIBs) with enhanced safety and stability."Unlike conventional methods, where adjusting one parameter affects the others, our approach allows independent and precise control over multiple descriptors, including average composition, slope, and curvature," said Hyun Deog Yoo, Associate Professor from the Department of Chemistry and the Institute for Future Earth at Pusan National University, Korea. Enhanced performance of lithium-ion batteries At a time when the demand for electric vehicles is on the rise, researchers are working to enhance the performance of lithium-ion batteries (LIBs).The performance and stability of LIBs largely depend on the cathode material, which can account for nearly 40–45% of the total battery cost. Among cutting-edge technologies, high-nickel cathodes stand out for their high energy density and cost efficiency. However, increasing the nickel content also intensifies side reactions, severely compromising interfacial robustness and mechanical integrity—factors that limit large-scale applications, according to researchers. Promising solution Scientists revealed that a promising solution is the use of full concentration gradient (FCG) or core–shell pointed out that traditionally, FCG cathodes are synthesized via a coprecipitation method involving two tanks of metal precursor first tank, rich in nickel (Ni), feeds directly into the reactor. The second tank, containing cobalt (Co) and manganese (Mn), is mixed into the first to reduce the Ni concentration over time. In conventional systems, the flow rate of this second tank is fixed, meaning only one specific gradient can be achieved for a given average composition, according to a press release. In the study, researchers revealed that they overcame this limitation by expressing the flow rate of the second tank as a time-dependent mathematical function. This innovation allows independent tuning of the average composition, slope, and curvature—enabling the generation of a virtually unlimited range of concentration gradients using just two tanks. Integrating approach with an automated reactor system By integrating this approach with an automated reactor system, the team successfully synthesized five FCG Ni0.8Co0.1Mn0.1(OH)2 precursors with finely tuned gradients, verified through two- and three-dimensional elemental mapping, according to the experiment. "For this purpose, we assembled an outstanding international research team, collaborating with laboratories at the University of Illinois Chicago, Argonne National Laboratory, and several institutes across Korea and the United States," said Dr. Yoo. "My lab focused on designing and synthesizing FCG cathodes, while most of the 2D and 3D imaging analyses were conducted by the groups of Prof. Jordi Cabana and Prof. Robert F. Klie. We feel truly privileged to have been part of such a remarkable collaboration." Solve the daily Crossword
Straits Times
14-07-2025
- Straits Times
Seoul's summer too hot to handle, even for mosquitoes
Sign up now: Get ST's newsletters delivered to your inbox The mosquito populations may rise in the fall however as temperatures drop. The number of mosquitoes in Seoul has more than halved over the past decade, with experts pointing to extreme heat and a shortened monsoon season as key factors behind the sharp decline in mosquito activity. According to statistics provided by the Seoul Metropolitan Government, up to 62,351 mosquitoes were collected through monitoring in June. The city government noted that this was a 56 per cent decrease compared to its data from 2015, as the city saw up to 139,928 mosquitoes in the same month. The recent figure is also lower than the mosquito count observed at the same time in 2024, which saw 68,462 mosquitoes. Between June 17 and 19 — when high temperatures hovered near 37 deg C in the capital city — mosquito monitoring devices set up at 55 sites collected 6,233 mosquitoes, roughly averaging 2,000 mosquitoes per day. According to the city government, this is a 20 per cent decrease compared to the same three-day period last year, which saw a daily average of up to 2,590. The decrease in mosquito numbers has been attributed to cutting-edge pest control technology. Top stories Swipe. Select. Stay informed. Singapore Singapore to train more aviation and maritime officials from around the world Singapore Special edition SG60 Nets card now on sale for $10 Singapore Same person, but different S'porean Chinese names? How have such naming practices evolved? Business Singapore's economy sees surprise expansion in Q2 despite US tariff uncertainty: Advance estimate Life Pioneer performance artist Amanda Heng to represent Singapore at 2026 Venice Biennale Singapore Jail for woman who opened bank accounts that received over $640.7m, including scam proceeds Singapore Driver assisting with police probe after e-bike rider injured in hit-and-run accident in Hougang Sport After Olympic heartbreak, Singaporean swimmer Chantal Liew turns pain into inspiration For example, in districts such as Gangnam-gu in southern Seoul and Nowon-gu in northern Seoul, drones have been used to spray insecticide in areas inaccessible to vehicles, such as parks. LED traps that attract insects, mosquito traps, as well as automatic repellent dispensers, have also been installed across Seoul to manage the summer pests. Besides advanced pest control strategies, experts say the biggest factor behind the decline is the sweltering heat. Seoul has consistently reported record-high summer temperatures in recent years, with each year surpassing temperature records set in the previous year. 'With high temperatures during the day hovering close to 37 deg C and tropical nights being consistently observed in Seoul, mosquitoes are finding it difficult to survive,' Professor Park Hyeon-cheol from Pusan National University's Department of Life Science and Environmental Biochemistry told The Korea Herald. 'Mosquitoes are normally active in temperatures ranging between 25 deg C to 28 deg C, and once such temperatures exceed 32 deg C, their survival becomes unlikely.' Prof Park added that fewer mosquitoes may be observed during this summer in particular, as the monsoon season was noted to be particularly 'dry.' The monsoon season has not been officially declared over in Seoul. However, according to the Korea Meteorological Administration, on Jeju Island and in the southern parts of the country, it lasted just 15 days and 13 days, respectively. This is less than half the duration recorded a decade ago, when monsoon seasons lasted for 30 days on Jeju Island and 36 days in the south. 'The lack of steady rainfall limits the formation of puddles, which are breeding grounds for mosquitoes,' said Prof Park. 'And even when it does rain, Korea also often sees sudden, intense downpours, which wash away mosquito eggs and larvae before they have a chance to hatch and develop.' While the number of mosquitoes may decline during the summer season, higher mosquito numbers could be seen in the fall. 'A decline in mosquito numbers may be observed in the summer due to high temperatures,' Prof Park explained. 'However, as temperatures get relatively cooler, mosquito populations may rise from beginning to mid-September, with some continuing to be active into early winter.' THE KOREA HERALD/ASIA NEWS NETWORK
Korea Herald
14-07-2025
- Science
- Korea Herald
Seoul's summer too hot to handle — even for mosquitoes
More mosquitoes could be seen in fall and early winter than in summer, due to high summer temperatures The number of mosquitoes in Seoul has more than halved over the past decade, with experts pointing to extreme heat and a shortened monsoon season as key factors behind the sharp decline in mosquito activity. According to statistics provided by the Seoul Metropolitan Government, up to 62,351 mosquitoes were collected through monitoring in June. The city government noted that this was a 56 percent decrease compared to its data from 2015, as the city saw up to 139,928 mosquitoes in the same month. The recent figure is also lower than the mosquito count observed at the same time in 2024, which saw 68,462 mosquitoes. Between June 17 and 19 — when high temperatures hovered near 37 degrees Celsius in the capital city — mosquito monitoring devices set up at 55 sites collected 6,233 mosquitoes, roughly averaging 2,000 mosquitoes per day. According to the city government, this is a 20 percent decrease compared to the same three-day period last year, which saw a daily average of up to 2,590. The decrease in mosquito numbers has been attributed to cutting-edge pest control technology. For example, in districts such as Gangnam-gu in southern Seoul and Nowon-gu in northern Seoul, drones have been used to spray insecticide in areas inaccessible to vehicles, such as parks. LED traps that attract insects, mosquito traps, as well as automatic repellent dispensers, have also been installed across Seoul to manage the summer pests. Besides advanced pest control strategies, experts say the biggest factor behind the decline is the sweltering heat. Seoul has consistently reported record-high summer temperatures in recent years, with each year surpassing temperature records set in the previous year. 'With high temperatures during the day hovering close to 37 C and tropical nights being consistently observed in Seoul, mosquitoes are finding it difficult to survive,' professor Park Hyeon-cheol from Pusan National University's Department of Life Science and Environmental Biochemistry told The Korea Herald. 'Mosquitoes are normally active in temperatures ranging between 25 C to 28 C, and once such temperatures exceed 32 C, their survival becomes unlikely." Park added that fewer mosquitoes may be observed during this summer in particular, as the monsoon season was noted to be particularly "dry." The monsoon season has not been officially declared over in Seoul. However, according to the Korea Meteorological Administration, on Jeju Island and in the southern parts of the country, it lasted just 15 days and 13 days, respectively. This is less than half the duration recorded a decade ago, when monsoon seasons lasted for 30 days on Jeju Island and 36 days in the south. 'The lack of steady rainfall limits the formation of puddles, which are breeding grounds for mosquitoes,' said Park. 'And even when it does rain, Korea also often sees sudden, intense downpours, which wash away mosquito eggs and larvae before they have a chance to hatch and develop.' While the number of mosquitoes may decline during the summer season, higher mosquito numbers could be seen in the fall. 'A decline in mosquito numbers may be observed in the summer due to high temperatures," Park explained. "However, as temperatures get relatively cooler, mosquito populations may rise from beginning to mid-September, with some continuing to be active into early winter."
