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Vancouver Sun
7 hours ago
- Entertainment
- Vancouver Sun
Cook This: 3 'reimagined' Jewish recipes from Arthurs, including challah French toast
Our cookbook of the week is Arthurs: Home of the Nosh by Raegan Steinberg and Alexander Cohen, co-owners of Montreal's Arthurs Nosh Bar, with writer Evelyne Eng. Jump to the recipes: challah French toast , smoked salmon panzanella salad and cheese blintzes . Raegan Steinberg paid homage to her late father, Arthur Steinberg, with a restaurant. She and her husband, executive chef Alexander Cohen, opened Arthurs Nosh Bar in 2016. Today, Montrealers (and the occasional visiting celebrity ) line up for a seat at their luncheonette. 'Reimagined' Jewish fare, including syrniki (Eastern European cottage cheese pancakes), latkes, challah French toast and ever-changing shakshuka, reflects their heritage: Raegan's 'Romanian-Russian-Ashkenazi' and Cohen's 'Moroccan-Spanish-Sephardic.' Discover the best of B.C.'s recipes, restaurants and wine. By signing up you consent to receive the above newsletter from Postmedia Network Inc. A welcome email is on its way. If you don't see it, please check your junk folder. The next issue of West Coast Table will soon be in your inbox. Please try again Interested in more newsletters? Browse here. Nine years after opening Arthurs' doors, with three restaurants — including American-style bistro Romies — Raegan and Cohen (with writer Evelyne Eng) carry on Arthur's legacy in a cookbook, Arthurs: Home of the Nosh (Appetite by Random House, 2025). 'I feel like maybe that was my life's purpose,' says Raegan. 'I never thought I would lose my dad, and that really shifted my whole life. And I'm so grateful that my husband was on board and willing to create this — conceptualize this whole thing we've done.' She explains that Arthur was a food lover well before the term 'foodie' took hold. Her family's life revolved around eating, the where and the what. 'From a young age, all of us were introduced to food in a way that I don't know necessarily all families were.' Raegan began her culinary career in Montreal at Mandy's Gourmet Salads . After attending culinary school at the Art Institute of Vancouver, she worked at celebrated restaurants such as the Blue Water Cafe and Joe Beef . Cooking professionally became entwined with processing the trauma of losing her father. 'It was such an easy way just to forget. You're working with your hands. You put your head down. You work.' Being a chef wasn't what Raegan had expected to be doing, but she embraced it. 'I loved meeting people from all walks of life, and we all came together for this one purpose, and I loved the energy of the service.' Today, she oversees business development at Arthurs Nosh Bar. 'I'll always love food, making food and being creative with food. To be the best chef you can be, you need to be 100 per cent focused, and I don't think I could do that wearing all the hats. I love doing the other parts. I love working on the marketing and the branding, and I love building something from scratch and conceptualizing it.' In the book, Raegan says it was important for them to share 'the realistic sacrifices' people make in the food industry as well as the dishes and style of cooking Arthurs is known for. 'To be a chef, to be an entrepreneur, to own a restaurant — it's really hard work, and it's not always super fruitful. Every day is a challenge. And I wanted people to know, and I wanted people to resonate with the humour and the humility of the relationships and the day-to-day.' Arthurs is a tribute, but it's also a celebration. The book features the stories behind the restaurant and more than 115 recipes, including menu mainstays, Raegan and Cohen's family favourites and 'dream' recipes that may not suit high-volume restaurant cooking (e.g., pierogi, chicken liver spread and desserts — besides the babka and cookies they offer) but are the perfect fit for the home kitchen. Chapters focus on breakfast and brunch, soups, salads and sandwiches, deli and nosh, Shabbat, drinks and desserts. Arthurs goes in-depth into making staples such as smoked salmon, gravlax and beef bacon from scratch. Cohen is the executive chef of Arthurs Nosh Bar, and the book's recipes reflect his creative and detailed approach. He 'cooks from his heart and his nostalgia,' says Raegan. Cohen's parents moved to Montreal from Morocco as teenagers, and he draws inspiration from his large family, heritage and research. 'The way Alex cooks and the methods he uses aren't basic,' says Raegan. 'I hope people love that because it's not one of those cookbooks where there's six ingredients, and then you have a salad.' Take Arthurs' granola recipe, for instance, which has three parts and comes with the warning, 'No, you cannot just combine all the ingredients together at the beginning: it doesn't turn out well.' This is a 'signature Alex move,' says Raegan. 'I hate to say it, but usually he's right. It doesn't come out the same when you skip the step. Maybe some of it, a regular person might not notice, but I think that's what elevated our simple food, was these little extra details.' Makes: 8 slices (serves 4) 8 (2-inch-thick) slices challah 3 egg yolks 1/2 cup (100 g) granulated sugar 3/4 cup + 2 tbsp (210 mL) whipping cream 1/2 cup + 1/3 cup (200 mL) whole milk 1 tbsp honey 1/2 tsp pure vanilla extract 1/2 cinnamon stick or 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon Clarified butter, for cooking Place the challah slices in one layer on a sheet tray and leave in the fridge overnight, uncovered, to stale. Alternatively, you can dry them in the oven at low heat for 30 minutes. When you're ready to make the French toast, preheat the oven to 325F (165C). In a bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and sugar until you reach the ribbon stage (when you lift up the whisk, the batter that falls from it should form a thick trail that rests on the surface of the batter for a few seconds before disappearing). In a saucepan, combine the whipping cream, milk, honey, vanilla and cinnamon stick (if using ground cinnamon, add it after the liquids have been reduced in the next step). Bring the mixture to a boil. Once it scalds, whisk down the bubbles and lower the heat. Reduce the mixture by 20 per cent, whisking often so it doesn't burn. (If it does burn, do not scratch at the bottom. Instead, transfer the mixture to a separate pot and continue.) Remove the cinnamon stick (or, if using ground cinnamon, stir it in now). Very, very slowly, stream the hot liquid into the egg and sugar mixture, whisking constantly so the eggs don't scramble. Allow to sit for 15 minutes so the air bubbles pop, then transfer to a large, shallow dish. Let cool slightly. Submerge the challah in the mixture. Let soak for about 3 minutes, flipping a few times (see note). You know it's done when some liquid comes out of the bread when you squeeze it. Slick a skillet, preferably cast iron, with clarified butter, and bring it to medium heat. Fry the challah on each side until golden brown. Finish the challah in the oven for 3 minutes. You'll know it's done when it looks fluffy and bounces back when you poke it. Note: The fresher the bread, the longer you soak it. The staler the bread, the shorter you soak it. If your bread is basically breadcrumbs, or if you've dried it in the oven, simply dunk it and take it out, otherwise it'll fall apart. Serves: 1 Butter, for toasting 1 sesame bagel 1 tsp sliced Cascabella pepper 1 tbsp Bulgarian feta 1 large pinch thinly sliced Vidalia onion 1/2 tsp Pickled Mustard Seeds ( recipe follows ) 1/4 avocado, diced 4 cherry tomatoes, halved 1/3 Lebanese cucumber, sliced into half-moons 1/4 white nectarine, diced 1/4 cup (60 mL) White Balsamic Vinaigrette ( recipe follows ) 14 per cent sour cream, for dolloping 3 slices (2.6 oz/75 g total) smoked salmon Fresh dill, for garnish Butter and toast the bagel. Cut it into 1/2-inch pieces. For one salad, use just a quarter of the bagel. In a bowl, combine the bagel pieces, Cascabella, feta, onion, Pickled Mustard Seeds, avocado, tomatoes, cucumber and nectarine. Drizzle everything with the White Balsamic Vinaigrette. Transfer to a serving dish and dollop the sour cream all over. Drape the smoked salmon slices over the salad so that it blankets everything. Season with salt, black pepper and a good pinch of dill. Makes: 2 cups 1 1/4 cups (300 mL) champagne vinegar Scant 1/2 cup (100 mL) apple juice 3 1/3 tbsp (50 mL) white balsamic vinegar 3 1/3 tbsp (50 mL) water 1/4 cup + 1 tbsp (60 g) granulated sugar 1 tbsp salt 1 1/2 tsp mustard powder Scant 1 cup (200 g) yellow mustard seeds 1 large French shallot, halved In a large bowl, stir together all ingredients, minus the mustard seeds and shallot. Place the mustard seeds in a medium pot and cover generously with water. Bring to a boil, then drain and discard the water. Repeat another six times. The repetitions are optional, but it will soften the bitter tannins of the mustard seeds and remove their gumminess. Stir the mustard seeds into the bowl with the other ingredients, then add the shallot. Cover and let sit overnight in the fridge before using. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 3 months. Keep the residual liquid to use, with or without the seeds (it works great as a vinaigrette ingredient). Makes: 1 1/2 cups 1/2 cup + 2 tbsp (150 mL) white balsamic vinegar 3/4 cup + 2 tbsp (210 mL) extra-virgin olive oil 2 tbsp (30 mL) water 1 generous tsp (5 mL) white vinegar 1/3 tsp salt Pour all ingredients in a bottle and shake it up. Store at room temperature until the day you die. Makes: 10 to 12 blintzes Cheese filling: 300 g (1 1/3 cups) high-quality ricotta 250 g (1 cup + 2 tbsp) full-fat cottage cheese 120 g (1/2 cup + 1 1/2 tsp) cream cheese (preferably Philadelphia) 1 egg 55 g (1/3 cup + 2 tbsp) powdered sugar Lemon zest (optional) Crêpes: 4 eggs, at room temperature 200 g (1/2 cup + 1/3 cup) whole milk, at room temperature 175 g (1 1/4 cups) flour 16 g (4 tsp) granulated sugar 2 g (1/2 tsp) salt 45 g (3 tbsp) 14 per cent sour cream 56 g (1/4 cup) butter, melted and cooled slightly 14 g (1 tbsp) neutral oil or melted coconut oil Clarified butter, for frying For serving: Jam Fresh fruit Sour cream mixed with granulated sugar Meringue, crumbled (optional) Place the ricotta in a cheesecloth-lined fine-mesh strainer set over a bowl. Let sit overnight in the fridge. In a separate bowl, use the same method to strain the cottage cheese. This step is common in restaurants, used to intensify flavour and attain a velvety texture by removing excess water. The next day, blend the strained cottage cheese in a blender until smooth. Transfer it to a large bowl, along with the strained ricotta, cream cheese, egg, powdered sugar and a bit of lemon zest. Stir to combine. In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs and milk until fully smooth. In a large bowl, mix together the flour, sugar and salt. Transfer one-third of the liquid mixture to a small bowl, and stir in the sour cream little by little until there are no lumps. Add the butter and oil and mix until incorporated. Transfer back into the original liquid mixture and whisk to combine. Pour half of the liquid mixture into the dry mixture. Using a large spatula, mix until no lumps remain. Add the rest and stir well to fully combine. Let rest for 20 minutes before using. Set an 8-inch nonstick skillet over medium-low, and lightly brush it with clarified butter. Tilt the pan toward you, then ladle about 1/3 cup of batter into the pan. Rotate the pan to evenly spread the batter in a circle. Cook just until the side facing up is cooked through (it will turn matte). Repeat the process for each crêpe, brushing the pan with clarified butter between each one. Lay one crêpe on a plate, browned side facing up. Place about 1/3 cup of Cheese Filling at the lower-middle part of the crêpe, leaving a bit of space around the edges. (As you go, you'll figure out what the best amount of filling is and where to place it.) Fold in the short ends and roll it, burrito style, making sure the closing seam faces down and is somewhat centred. If you don't get a perfect roll, it's not a huge deal, but it will help seal the blintz when you fry it. Add some more clarified butter to the nonstick skillet and set over medium heat. Place the blintzes, seam side down, in the pan. Fry until golden, then flip and repeat. Work in batches to avoid crowding. Serve immediately with jam, fresh fruit, sweetened sour cream, and crumbled meringue. If serving at a later time, reheat in a 300F (150C) oven for a few minutes, or gently resear in a pan. Recipes and images excerpted from Arthurs: Home of the Nosh by Raegan Steinberg, Alexander Cohen and Evelyne Eng. Copyright ©2025 Raegan Steinberg, Alexander Cohen and Evelyne Eng. Photographs by Karolina Jez. Published by Appetite by Random House®, a division of Penguin Random House Canada Limited. Reproduced by arrangement with the Publisher. All rights reserved. Our website is the place for the latest breaking news, exclusive scoops, longreads and provocative commentary. Please bookmark and sign up for our cookbook and recipe newsletter, Cook This, here .
National Post
7 hours ago
- Entertainment
- National Post
Cook This: 3 'reimagined' Jewish recipes from Arthurs, including challah French toast
Our cookbook of the week is Arthurs: Home of the Nosh by Raegan Steinberg and Alexander Cohen, co-owners of Montreal's Arthurs Nosh Bar, with writer Evelyne Eng. Article content Jump to the recipes: challah French toast, smoked salmon panzanella salad and cheese blintzes. Article content Article content Raegan Steinberg paid homage to her late father, Arthur Steinberg, with a restaurant. She and her husband, executive chef Alexander Cohen, opened Arthurs Nosh Bar in 2016. Today, Montrealers (and the occasional visiting celebrity) line up for a seat at their luncheonette. Article content Article content 'Reimagined' Jewish fare, including syrniki (Eastern European cottage cheese pancakes), latkes, challah French toast and ever-changing shakshuka, reflects their heritage: Raegan's 'Romanian-Russian-Ashkenazi' and Cohen's 'Moroccan-Spanish-Sephardic.' Article content Article content Nine years after opening Arthurs' doors, with three restaurants — including American-style bistro Romies — Raegan and Cohen (with writer Evelyne Eng) carry on Arthur's legacy in a cookbook, Arthurs: Home of the Nosh (Appetite by Random House, 2025). Article content 'I feel like maybe that was my life's purpose,' says Raegan. 'I never thought I would lose my dad, and that really shifted my whole life. And I'm so grateful that my husband was on board and willing to create this — conceptualize this whole thing we've done.' She explains that Arthur was a food lover well before the term 'foodie' took hold. Her family's life revolved around eating, the where and the what. 'From a young age, all of us were introduced to food in a way that I don't know necessarily all families were.' Article content Raegan began her culinary career in Montreal at Mandy's Gourmet Salads. After attending culinary school at the Art Institute of Vancouver, she worked at celebrated restaurants such as the Blue Water Cafe and Joe Beef. Cooking professionally became entwined with processing the trauma of losing her father. 'It was such an easy way just to forget. You're working with your hands. You put your head down. You work.' Being a chef wasn't what Raegan had expected to be doing, but she embraced it. Article content Article content Today, she oversees business development at Arthurs Nosh Bar. 'I'll always love food, making food and being creative with food. To be the best chef you can be, you need to be 100 per cent focused, and I don't think I could do that wearing all the hats. I love doing the other parts. I love working on the marketing and the branding, and I love building something from scratch and conceptualizing it.'
