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Indian Express
15 hours ago
- Entertainment
- Indian Express
Scandinavian scarf or a dupatta: What the TikTok trend reveals about cultural appropriation in fashion
Remember Kareena Kapoor Khan's iconic character Poo in Kabhi Khushi Kabhie Gham flaunting a black dupatta with her beige jacket and halter-neck top? Chic, classy and oh-so-elegant, Poo became a fashion icon in the 2000s, setting off a trend among college students and young millennials. Aishwarya Rai Bachchan, too, rocked a similar look in Bride and Prejudice, pairing a slinky dupatta with her Indo-Western ensembles. Now, decades later, TikTok has repackaged this dupatta-wearing '2000s baddie' look into a Western concept, calling it the 'Scandinavian scarf' trend. Harshita Srivastava, senior faculty of fashion styling at Pearl Academy, explained that the Scandinavian scarf refers to 'a soft piece of fabric resting on the front of the neck and shoulders, cascading down the back.' It's now being sported by celebrities, models, and pop culture influencers, and widely adopted by young Western fashion enthusiasts. The trend has sparked criticism on social media, as the so-called 'Scandinavian scarf' looks suspiciously similar to the South Asian dupatta. But the phenomenon of the West acknowledging and celebrating something only when they adopt it is hardly new. 'In 1498, Vasco da Gama 'discovered' India, they say, and paisley 'rose to popularity' in the 1800s because of Queen Victoria's taste. It raises the question: discovered for whom, and popular where?' asked Srivastava. 'The list of such trends is endless: yoga, chai tea lattes, turmeric milk, incense sticks, curry sauce, 'namaste', henna tattoos, naan bread, mango lassi… The point is, this isn't an isolated event, and certainly not the first time Europe has viewed itself as the centre of the world,' she said. We live in a world that has been tilted, one where no act of borrowing from another culture can exist without historical context. 'When a privileged community adopts from a marginalised one, especially one that has faced historic oppression, colonisation, etc., they trigger and repeat the original trauma. Imperialism, identity, and systemic erasure are linked,' said Srivastava. According to her, Eurocentric aesthetic preferences are how dominant cultures engage with a trend while actively shrinking the visibility of the culture and people they are adopting from, reinforcing unfair and oppressive structural dynamics. 'Cultural appropriation happens when patterns, symbols, silhouettes or designs are taken from an oppressed culture without context or consent. Especially when the dominant culture 'appreciates' things it once dismissed, or even punished,' Srivastava said. She raised an important concern –– who gets to profit from a culture and who is punished for it? Raghavendra Rathore, founder of Raghavendra Rathore Jodhpur, said that in the ever-shifting world of fashion, the line between inspiration and appropriation has grown even more difficult, and more critical. 'Inspiration comes from various periods and cultures and even the structures and textures of nature; creativity lives on references. For designers, this referencing is a means of storytelling, a process that revitalises classic forms, not an imitator strategy,' he explained. But when reverence becomes replication, the integrity is lost. 'Inspired work is legitimate when it's honest –– it acknowledges the source, respects the context, and adapts with purpose. It's about paying respect to history and the original creator, not just copying a look,' he said. That said, now, with social media, we have the tools and the power to question and disrupt a repressive cultural erasure with radical visibility. We get to take part in a trend while combating it at the same time. To wear, flaunt, and celebrate the dupatta without calling it a 'Scandinavian scarf'. The rise of artificial intelligence complicates the conversation further. 'AI recycles and redefines past work by scanning billions of images, designs and styles. While this enables rapid creation, it risks diluting originality, leading to a homogenised visual culture,' said Rathore, adding that today's idea of 'originality' is already shifting since almost everything we create is built on something that came before. This debate is especially relevant for Indian fashion, with its deep well of artisanal techniques, regional crafts, and visual diversity. As Indian designers reinterpret global influences and global houses borrow from Indian aesthetics, the question of inspired vs appropriated becomes a complex one. This dialogue is especially important for Indian fashion, which rests on a rich foundation of tradition, craftsmanship, and diverse regional aesthetics. The challenge, according to Rathore, is to move from surface-level borrowing to respectful cultural exchange. In fashion – as in all creative work – it comes down to the integrity of the process. 'If one finds inspiration in another's work, the garment must clearly deviate in form, function, or context,' said Rathore, who believes that paying respect to a source honestly marks intellectual and artistic strength rather than a sign of weakness. In a world becoming ever more transparent and algorithm-driven, Rathore believes the future of fashion belongs to those who can responsibly and honourably turn influence into innovation. If you are bored with the regular way of draping a dupatta and serving major traditional vibes, Srivastava shared some quick and easy ways to style this piece of fabric. 'You can either drape it like a dupatta from the same or a contrasting colour and fabric family, draped like a shawl around the shoulders or the head, as a 90s scarf to tie the hair on a hot summer day or you can even opt for a monochrome set, adding bindis, chudis and even some ribbons,' said the fashion expert. Ishika Roy is a is a Trainee Sub Editor for the lifestyle desk at The Indian Express. She shares a keen interest in reading, writing and researching on all things beauty, entertainment, pop culture and lifestyle. Ishika holds a Bachelor's degree in Sociology from Miranda House, Delhi and a Post-graduate degree in Journalism from Symbiosis Institute of Media and Communication, Pune. ... Read More
Time of India
28-04-2025
- Entertainment
- Time of India
'Classic is a timeless trend season after season': Raghavendra Rathore on men's fashion and changing trends
(Image Credits: Raghavendra Rathore Jodhpur-Official website) In the ever-evolving world of men's fashion , one thing remains constant: the enduring appeal of classic style. Renowned designer Raghavendra Rathore , known for his impeccable tailoring and elegant designs, believes that while trends may shift, the foundation of great style lies in timeless pieces. In this conversation, Rathore delves into the art of menswear, exploring how traditional elements continue to influence modern trends and why classic fashion is always in vogue. Excerpts from an exclusive interaction with him. Your designs, especially the Bandhgala and Jodhpur cuts , have modernized traditional Indian attire. What inspired you to reinvent these classic styles? Reinventing the Bandhgala, a symbol of Rajasthani regalia, the brand has seamlessly blended traditional elegance with modern tailoring for over three decades. By introducing contemporary cuts and unique details, the classic silhouettes have been redefined for today's fashion landscape. Personalization lies at the heart of our approach, crafting each piece to reflect individual style preferences. Collaborating with artisans ensures authenticity, as we reimagine traditional textiles with a modern palette. Emphasizing versatility, the Raghavendra Rathore Jodhpur(RRJ) Bandhgala transitions effortlessly between formal and casual settings, making it a timeless wardrobe essential. (Image Credits: Instagram) Can you share the philosophy behind your brand, Raghavendra Rathore Jodhpur, and how it reflects Indian heritage? Rooted in Indian heritage and the rich cultural legacy of Jodhpur are the very essence of the RRJ brand. With a strong emphasis on sustainability, craftsmanship, and tradition, the brand is committed to preserving age old techniques and the enduring charm of bygone eras. Classic is timeless and with this vision, our endeavour is to create heirloom-worthy pieces, not only to encourage a conscious investment in timeless luxury but also lasting memories. How do you balance preserving traditional craftsmanship with incorporating contemporary fashion trends in your collections? Storytelling through design is a key – it preserves traditions and honours the rich history of our country. At RRJ, we embrace the requirements of a global landscape by integrating technological innovation and modern tools, while balancing tradition i.e., creating heritage textiles reimagined for the modern gentleman. (Image Credits: Instagram) Having dressed various Indian royals and celebrities, how do you approach creating designs that honour individual legacies while maintaining modern appeal? A deep dive into the client's personal style and attention to detail is the essential approach. Each design is a mix of heritage and individuality—customized to reflect the client's narrative, lineage and modern sensibilities. We ensure every garment becomes a timeless expression of their legacy, tradition, comfort and quiet sophistication. What role do you believe designers play in reviving and sustaining India's traditional textiles and techniques? Fashion serves as a powerful medium to extend cultural heritage, seamlessly blending craftsmanship with lifestyle offerings. Designers can use it as a tool to revive the old world charm. Reviving, reinventing and by being able to offer sustainable solutions to preserve the rich techniques while collaborating with local artisans to ensure authenticity and quality, the design fraternity strives to offer a bridge between tradition and innovation. How do you approach designing for different generations of men while maintaining your brand's identity? The brand seamlessly balances tradition and modernity, designing for multiple generations while preserving its identity. By embracing fusion aesthetics and introducing contemporary lines like RR Blue, it appeals to younger audiences while retaining classic styles. Integrating design processes with technology enhances creativity and production efficiency, aligning with modern sensibilities. Versatile designs ensure adaptability across age groups, while a timeless aesthetic guarantees enduring brand relevance and continuity. Master The Classic 'Old Fashioned': A Step-by-Step Guide By International Malts Specialist James Cordiner How has men's fashion evolved over the years, and what trends do you foresee in the near future? It has transcended from pure functionality to a powerful form of self-expression, with a growing emphasis on personal style over fleeting trends. Today, men have access to a diverse range of styles, silhouettes, and fabrics, enabling greater sartorial freedom and individuality. With the growing emphasis on sustainability, how do you see the future of eco-conscious fashion in men's clothing? With a shift toward ethical sourcing, slow fashion, and circular design, quality will take precedence over quantity. Advancements in regenerative textiles and AI-driven customization will reduce waste while enhancing personalization. Sustainability will become an industry standard, merging heritage with modern responsibility for timeless, conscious luxury – in a nutshell, a blend of sustainability with luxury and innovation. (Image Credits: Instagram) What advice would you offer to emerging designers aiming to blend traditional elements with modern fashion sensibilities? Stay true to your brand identity and focus on storytelling through design. Can you share insights into your creative process when developing a new collection? Jodhpur is a constant inspiration…the process is a deep dive into the relics of the past and a reflection of heritage clothing that the brand is synonymous with. Classic is a timeless trend season after season, resonating the ethos of the brand's vision.
