06-08-2025
- Entertainment
- New Indian Express
New menu at The Piano Man: fish and spice, and everything nice
We start with soup. Every spoonful of the Reconstructed Tom Kha Chicken is smooth, artful and delicious. Unlike the traditional Tom Kha, in which the vegetables, chicken, and broth seem mashed into one soup, here the soup is poured around the vegetables so that in memory each of them remains separate; yet the experience of it is one of a single wholesomeness.
I next taste Heston's Fish & Chips. The flour, beer and vodka have been whisked well to make the batter, but the inside, where the batter meets the fish, feels a bit oily, and the accompaniment of Cajun chips feels like one oily item has been piled on another; it is not worth its price of Rs1,500.
On Chef Pandey's coaxing, I try things vegetarian. The Ratatouille with Raja Mirchi Corn Bread is decent. The Edamame and Truffle Dimsum, a symphony of velvety edamame and decadent truffle, wrapped in a delicate embrace of haute-cuisine indulgence, is truly delicious.