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Yahoo
05-05-2025
- Yahoo
Tromsø, Norway: the Capital of the Arctic
Tromsø may be remote, located on a small island 344 kilometres north of the Arctic Circle. But during the 19th century, visitors called it the Paris of the North. Finely dressed gentlemen strolled past grand townhouses. They owed their prosperity to the port, where merchant ships were loaded with fish, blubber and other wares. Nowadays you're more likely to see people in Tromsø wearing waterproof outdoor jackets. Hikers and skiers use the city as a base for exploring the region and climbing the mountains on the nearby island of Senja or in the Lyngen Alps, which reach heights of over 1,800 metres. Kayakers come to paddle through the Sommarøy archipelago. And during the peak winter season, tourists from all over the world, in particular East Asia, come to Tromsø to see the Northern Lights and whales, and to glide through the snow on dog sleds. What's Tromsø like outside of the winter season? It's a great destination for a city break - especially around mid-May, when the sun doesn't set and remains visible at night. Here are some recommendations for culture, gastronomy and outdoor activities: Culture: Tromsø's museums showcase the city's Arctic heritage The Polar Museum, located in a historic wooden house by Tromsø's harbour, may be rather stuffy and old-fashioned, but the photos, exhibits and anecdotes from Fridtjof Nansen's and Roald Amundsen's polar expeditions still fascinate to this day. The exhibition on the hunters who spent the winter on Svalbard and killed reindeer, seals, arctic foxes and polar bears spares no gory detail. The Polaria Arctic Experience Centre, located in a building modelled on ice floes, is much more than a museum. At the end of 2023, the exhibition was updated in line with recent findings on climate change. Displays include the teeth of a Greenland shark and a thecosomata or sea butterfly, whose calcified shell dissolves in the increasingly acidic sea. The panoramic cinema with a curved screen shows documentaries about the Northern Lights and the Svalbard archipelago. There is an open tank that's home to Northern species such as the spotted wolffish and halibut, while aquariums house starfish and translucent moon jellyfish. You can watch bearded seals and harbour seals as they hunt and pirouette through the green water. Feeding time is popular with the animals and visitors alike. Gastronomy: Nordic beer and computer games for afters Another landmark is Raketten Bar, the city's oldest kiosk located on Storgata, the main pedestrian street behind the harbour. Opened in 1911 by Margit Løkke, then 18, she sold newspapers, tobacco and fruit from the tiny pavilion for a quarter of a century. The kiosk survived a fire that burned down dozens of surrounding houses, as Siri Therese Lier, 51, a former tour guide and current owner of the Raketten Bar, explains. Lier wants to keep the famous snack stand exactly as it used to look. In the winter she sells 350 hot dogs on some days, with customers waiting in line for up to an hour. It's like the United Nations, Lier says. "People from all over the world come here and chat over food." Her bestseller is a reindeer and pork sausage, and there's also a vegan version. If you're feeling peckish, you can head to the tiny restaurant Burgr for great hamburgers with names like Super Mario and Bowser. One of the walls is covered with Nintendo and Atari video game posters, and on the Commodore 64 computer next to it, you can play an old game with a joystick. It's pure video game nostalgia for generation X and Y (millennials) in the Arctic. Tromsø is also home to some wonderful fish restaurants - you just have to be able to afford them. You can get a fish soup or fish and chips for a reasonable price at Dragøy, a restaurant inside Kystens Mathus, a modern addition to the Tromsø cityscape with a black facade. You can sit outside, directly at the water's edge. And if you're looking for a caffeine fix after your meal, stroll over to Kaffebønna, the city's oldest espresso café on the main square, Stortorget. If you fancy it, you can order a cinnamon bun from the adjoining bakery. From the outdoor tables you have a view of the harbour, the curved Tromsø Bridge and the Arctic Cathedral on the other side of the water. With its glass facade and white tiered roof, it's one of the city's most recognisable landmarks. You can also quench your thirst for beer. The Mack brewery, one of the northernmost in the world, was founded in 1877 by the German Ludwig Mack. At the Ølhallen pub next door, which features exposed brick walls and a vaulted wooden ceiling, historical photos on the walls and a stuffed polar bear, you can choose from 72 different beers. There are guided tours and brewing seminars which promise: "At the end of the course you'll know enough to be able to brew your own beer!" Outdoors: Hiking, paddling and a floating spa The best way to digest your meal and get a view of the city is to climb Tromsø's local mountain, Storsteinen. The 1,300 stone steps of the Sherpa trail take you to the mountain ledge, 421 metres above sea level. Alternatively, you can take the Fjellheisen cable car. Tromsø, the fjords and the mountain ranges on the horizon - you can see it all from the terrace of the mountain station. Follow the winding hills up the meadow slope and it's a half-hour walk to the next summit. Fløya mountain offers even more stunning views. At the top you're likely to meet mountain bikers who come up here to wind down after work. If you've worked up a sweat after your bike ride or hike, you might want to think twice about cooling off in Telegrafbukta (Telegraph Bay). Even in August, the warmest month of the year in Tromsø, the water in the popular bay in the southwest of the city never gets warmer than 10 degrees Celsius, and in May temperatures remain in the single digits. But the view of the bay, which you can reach by taking bus 33 or walking three kilometres from the city centre, is always beautiful. The water is clear, shimmering in turquoise. Beyond the fjord are the mountains, which are covered in snow all year round. You see students playing beach volleyball; Tromsø is the northernmost university town in the world. Families barbecue in the wooded area next to it. A visit during the period of the midnight sun, when the sun doesn't set between the May 20 and July 22, is an extra special experience. Everyone is full of energy and in party mode, cycling, hiking and going on picnics until late into the night. Or head out onto the fjord on the floating spa: On the former fishing boat "Vulkana" there is a sauna with a panorama window, a Turkish hammam with a cold pool and a wood-fired whirlpool on the deck. You can also book a midnight cruise that takes you through Tromsø's stunning fjords.


Chicago Tribune
23-04-2025
- Chicago Tribune
Retracing the snowy footsteps of my ancestors, who traveled to Antarctica before it became commonplace
The chance to travel to the farthest corner of the planet, the Antarctic continent, is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity for most people. It's the last frontier on Earth, a place where explorers such as Ernest Shackleton and Roald Amundsen became legends. But for me, the trip to Antarctica followed in the snowy footsteps of my relatives, who traveled there decades earlier, long before civilian travel became commonplace. 'We expect to be docking about noon. Here the Pacific, the Strait of Magellan, and the Atlantic will be surrounding the Tierra del Fuego area. We are sailing along snow-tipped mountain ranges toward Antarctica. Our first sightings have been spectacular.' These aren't my words, or even the diaries of a polar explorer, but those of my grandmother Sara Eubanks, who traveled to what is called the white continent in January 2003 in celebration of my grandfather Robert's 70th birthday. They traveled with Holland America, flying from our hometown of Atlanta to Miami and then on to Santiago and Valparaiso in Chile before boarding the ship that would take them to the ends of the earth. Even before that, my great-grandfather traveled to Antarctica in 1989, snapping photos at Palmer Station, the year-round United States research station. My grandparents are responsible for my love of travel. Some of my earliest memories were of picking them up at the airport with my father, eager to hear stories and see what souvenirs they brought my siblings and me. My grandparents didn't start traveling until their children had all left the nest; but then they hit the ground — and air — running, eventually reaching every continent. Visiting a place they traveled together is nothing new for me. In my decadelong career as a writer, I've followed their tracks across the globe, from the outback of Australia to the cathedrals of Germany. And in 2024, I was able to reach the seventh continent myself, alongside my sister Sammi, another generation to make the journey south. We flew to Ushuaia, Argentina, the southernmost city where most Antarctic cruises depart from. Then we traveled aboard the 148-passenger National Geographic Explorer with Lindblad Expeditions, named for Lars-Eric Lindblad, who in 1966 launched the Antarctic cruise industry. I carried my grandmother's journal alongside my own, feeling the importance of the experience through her words. She's still a consummate record keeper, just like me, with drawers full of notebooks like these. They became all the more treasured after my grandfather's death a few years ago. We both wrote about the majesty of the icebergs as they came into view from our cabin windows, some as big as buildings, and heard about the history of the continent from the people who studied at the various research stations. I wondered how much of what I was seeing matched up with her own experiences, despite the decades of climate change that have affected the icy region. Unlike on her trip, my sister and I were actually able to step foot on the carefully protected islands. Perhaps the best part of the trip was coming home and telling my grandmother all about it: the colonies of chinstrap and gentoo penguins we saw up close, the volcanic shores of the former whaling station at Deception Island, and the adrenaline-inducing polar plunge, followed by a warming Negroni from my favorite onboard bartender, Pete. A trip to the otherworldly deserts and icy landscapes of Antarctica is difficult to describe. You'll never see quite so much untouched wilderness or the range of fauna, including several species of penguins and whales. And you'll join a special club of people who have been there. I could say this club is small, but that's becoming less true with every passing year, especially since pandemic travel restrictions eased. According to the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators, the governing tourism body with 52 member operators, the past year saw over 40,000 cruise-only passengers, over 80,000 land visitors to land, and over 700 so-called deep field visitors who travel to the interior of the continent. And while my relatives waited until they were older, the demographics of visitors are also starting to change. On my trip, I was surrounded by people in their 30s and 40s, all crossing off the elusive seventh continent from their list. The cost remains fairly prohibitive but many travelers are looking to experience it at a younger age. My trip had the option to fly over the famously rough waters of the Drake Passage on DAP, the airline serving the continent since 1989, which allows more people to travel directly to King George Island in Antarctica. We opted for the flight on our return trip. There are also increasingly more land-based expeditions such as White Desert, a series of luxury glamping trips with private flights and fine dining, which start at about $16,000 for one night and run up to $110,000 for seven to eight nights. Another company, Runbuk Inc., holds an Ice Marathon on the continent. When it comes to choosing an operator, I suggest using IAATO members, who are required to follow strict protocols to protect the delicate ecosystem. Conditions in Antarctica are changing constantly and ship landings must be scheduled well in advance. A certain level of flexibility is required, especially for those prone to seasickness. Travelers can't be beholden to their bucket list as there are some experiences you won't even know to add to the list until you arrive. What's most important is to take it all in: the place, its majesty and its importance. Like my family, you will come away with a lifetime's worth of memories.


The Guardian
11-04-2025
- The Guardian
Experience: I was the youngest person to ski alone to the south pole
Growing up in Norway, I had heard a lot about polar exploration, including how Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen was the first person to reach the south pole in 1911. As a child I spent a lot of time outdoors – building bonfires, camping and skiing in the mountains. Aged 14, seven years before my south pole expedition, I decided I wanted to become the youngest woman to ski across Greenland. I'm just under 5ft tall, and people are still shocked that I'm a polar explorer. When I became interested in skiing across Greenland, several guiding companies were unwilling to take me because I was so young. Then I met Lars Ebbesen, an experienced polar guide. Straight away, I felt he respected my ambitions. I had to go on an expedition to Finnmark first – a county in northern Norway – to prove I was capable. It was dark and cold – temperatures dropped as low as -35C, but I fell in love with it. Crossing Greenland itself took 28 days because we had very bad weather. At one point, we couldn't leave our tent for three days. When our guide went outside to dig snow away from the tent walls, we had to hold him with a rope because the winds were so strong. I wasn't scared, which I think was a little naive. The others on the expedition have since told me that they were very afraid and wondering how to protect me if the tent blew away. I was 14; the next oldest person was the guide, who was 30. I really grew up during that time. My mum says she can't remember me being a teenager. It was on my 15th birthday that I decided to go to Antarctica. I didn't tell my mum about my plans at first. I just told my dad – he's like me, a big dreamer. My mum is more pragmatic. My dad and I contacted Lars to work out the logistics. When I told my mum, she realised I had already made up my mind. My parents are great role models – a lot of parents tell their children to wait until they're older to explore their dreams. But if you wait too long you'll have other commitments. When I began the expedition last November, I was 21. Pierre Hedan, the last person to break the record, was 26 when he arrived in January 2024. The journey is 1,130km: from Hercules Inlet, on the edge of the Antarctic continent, to the geographic south pole. I had to increase my body weight by 10% to be able to pull the supplies on my sledge, so I did a lot of strength training to gain muscle. In the two months before leaving, I often ate two dinners, lots of ice-cream and chocolate pudding. Because of my height, I found it hard to find expedition clothing that fitted me. But a company in London made a suit that was perfect. To prepare, I spoke to former polar explorers, watched documentaries and read every book on the subject. To keep me occupied on the trip, I had podcasts and music – my brother made me a playlist with everything from Norwegian house party music to the Beatles. But, the further I went, the more I enjoyed just experiencing the silence. Sign up to Inside Saturday The only way to get a look behind the scenes of the Saturday magazine. Sign up to get the inside story from our top writers as well as all the must-read articles and columns, delivered to your inbox every weekend. after newsletter promotion On the expedition itself, I was surprised that there was so much snowfall – the Antarctic is technically a desert because it doesn't typically experience much precipitation. On the hardest days, I was in fresh snow up to my knees and could only go 9.5km in 10 hours. That tested my resilience. Then, when I arrived on the plateau 2,800m above sea level, I really felt the thin and cold air affecting my lungs. Towards the end, my lungs were painful, and I struggled to breathe. Before finishing, I didn't allow myself to feel much, because I had to be focused. So when I arrived, 54 days after setting out, it was fantastic to revel in what I had achieved, though I also felt a slight emptiness because my life for so long had been about planning this project. In January, I received official accreditation from Antarctic Logistics & Expeditions confirming I had broken the record. When I crossed Greenland, Lars nicknamed me 'the polar egg'. The idea was that one day I would hatch and do a bigger expedition on my own. When I reached the south pole I sent him an emoji of a chick emerging from an egg. Though with everything I've experienced I feel much older than that. As told to Rachel Halliburton Do you have an experience to share? Email experience@


Telegraph
22-02-2025
- Telegraph
The secret to visiting the most enigmatic region on Earth
In September 2024, Le Commandant Charcot, bearing a complement of excited passengers, nudged through pack-ice to become the first cruiseship to reach the North Pole of Inaccessibility, the remotest point in the Arctic Ocean from land. Three days later, she reached the geographic North Pole. That they penetrated so far in five-star luxury, a far cry from the hardships endured by explorers such as Roald Amundsen and Sir John Franklin, might diminish the Arctic's chiselled aura of remoteness. As do rising sea temperatures, which are reshaping its geography and accessibility. By 2024 the Arctic Ocean's sea-ice coverage had reached a historic low by extent. Yet this evolution of the icescapes and wild tundra above the Arctic Circle – outside of out-of-bounds Russia, which encompasses half the region – have opened new doors to opportunities to explore it. Just a few decades ago, the centre of attention was Sweden's Icehotel, first conceived in 1989, and a Christmas wishlist to visit Santa in Lapland. Now, there are wildlife cruises to see polar bears in the increasingly popular Svalbard archipelago and Astro-tourism is booming, driven by the sunspot phenomena Solar Cycle 25, which will yield wondrous northern lights sightings well into winter 2025/26. You can dogsled with the Inuit and learn their secrets of survival – ' coolcations ' also offer ever more unique and remote accommodation immersed in the wilderness.


Telegraph
04-02-2025
- Telegraph
Sail on the ultimate Arctic adventure with an epic voyage to Svalbard
Turning into Kongsfjorden in the awesome wilderness of Svalbard, guests on the Hurtigruten ship MS Trollfjord will brush the latitude line of 79 degrees – joining an exclusive band to travel this far north. The destination on this day is Ny-Ålesund, a former coal mine that has blossomed into an Arctic research station. It is where pioneer Roald Amundsen started expeditions to the North Pole. Relics of Ny-Ålesund's industrial past often stand in contrast to Svalbard's dramatic landscapes Credit : Andrea Klaussner Wandering around this hyper-remote community, there are plenty of echoes of its industrial past – as well as the world's most northerly post office. In contrast, the spectacular natural surroundings of Kongsfjorden – King's Fjord – are impeccably untouched. Formidable glaciers girdle stark mountains, flowing down to meet the sea where piratical skuas chase delicate terns. From out on deck you may spy small icebergs, seals, reindeer or an Arctic fox – and if you are very lucky a walrus, beluga whale or the ultimate symbol of Svalbard, the polar bear. While Svalbard is home to dramatic glaciers and stark mountains, its greatest icon is the polar bear Credit : Getty Ny-Ålseund is a port of call on Hurtigruten's mesmerising Svalbard Line, a cruise that also encompasses a great swathe of Norway's incredible coastline. This 15-day adventure, a round-trip from colourful Bergen, is part of Hurtigruten's premium Signature collection. Unlike this famous company's Original Voyages, where the ships double as a vital link between isolated communities, these are more leisurely cruises. An emphasis on exploration is afforded by several hours spent in each port, and a large dedicated Coastal Experience Team on board who can offer additional guidance. The Svalbard Line's 15-day Arctic adventure begins and ends in colourful Bergen Credit : Getty Guests can indulge in some exceptional optional excursions and activities in each destination. How about a spellbinding ride on the Golden Train from Åndalsnes, gliding past tumbling rivers to Europe's highest vertical mountain wall, Trollveggen? The next day you could be island-hopping on a local boat around the Træna archipelago, then getting close-up views of one of the world's most beautiful places, the Lofoten Islands, where traditional red fisherman's cabins are set against dramatic rock backdrops. Between those last two destinations, you'll cross the Arctic Circle with a treasured ceremony on deck – just part of the enlightening experience on board MS Trollfjord. The Hurtigruten MS Trollfjord sails through some of Norway's most beautiful waters Credit : Espen Mills Comfortable cabins and suites, along with panoramic lounges, are complemented by all-inclusive meals and drinks. There are no gimmicks – the accent is on enjoying the passing scenery in the long hours of sparkling daylight, enhanced by expert lectures, musical entertainment and culinary demonstrations. Indeed, the food is a big part of this journey, with fresh regional ingredients carefully prepared by talented chefs, a concept called Norway's Coastal Kitchen. You will actually sail past the fjords and meadows from which much of the ship's produce is sourced. MS Trollfjord has three elegant restaurants and a welcoming bar. Imagine starting an evening with a cocktail inspired by mythical Valhalla, then feasting on carpaccio of clipfish (dried cod) and rosemary-roasted lamb from a daily-changing menu. Bustling Tromsø, boasting a striking modern cathedral as well as classic wooden buildings, is the next port, then there's the chance to drive a quad bike to the breathtaking North Cape settlement atop soaring cliffs. Tromsø is just one of the exciting Arctic port stops on the Svalbard Line Credit : Getty Heading ever northwards into the vast Barents Sea, the rarely-seen Bear Island looms on the horizon. On a sail-past, you'll learn about its rich population of seabirds. Many of those arriving at Svalbard will feel this is the closest they will get to leaving the planet, so remote are the landscapes. Longyearbyen – the other port visited in this archipelago – will therefore come as a surprise. This cosmopolitan town of about 1,000 people boasts two excellent museums, restaurants and appealing little shops. One exciting activity is to take your seat on a wheeled sled behind a team of eager huskies. Longyearbyen is home to charming little shops as well as exciting outdoor activities Credit : Getty On the way back south, there are plenty more memories to be made. At Senja island – dubbed the Caribbean of the North – a safari can be enjoyed among the turquoise waters and white-sand beaches. Perhaps you will opt to discover how the Vikings built their dwellings at Tromsø, or kayak on crystal backwaters during another call at the Lofoten Islands. Just make sure to book these excursions, which come at an additional cost, in advance. With white-sand beaches and glistening landscapes, it's no surprise Senja island is known as the Caribbean of the North Credit : Getty If you're short of time, it's possible to sail half the Svalbard Line route, north or south, flying to or back from Longyearbyen. Whichever option you choose, you'll have experienced a natural beauty that can only be described as otherworldly. Experience authentic Norway With more than 130 years of experience in Norwegian coastal cruising, Hurtigruten Cruises delivers an unparalleled experience with fascinating excursions, breathtaking views, and locally sourced dishes that offer a true taste of Norway. Book your voyage today at and save up to 25 per cent on Original Voyages and up to 15 per cent on Signature Voyages for departures until April 2026. Book by 3 March 2025.