18-07-2025
Wine with Leslie: Three bottles you won't find in a supermarket
Yes, I spoil the cat. Lucy is 12 now, and we are best buddies; she is asleep beside me as I write this.
The Engineer does not understand why we need five brands of cat food in the house, but I do: Lucy is like me, she gets bored easily and her palate needs constant stimulation.
How boring to live in a world of just Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay. So this week I have chosen three tasty whites made from lesser-known grapes that offer flavour, texture and character but are not likely to be found in a supermarket.
I was delighted to be sent a bottle of Angelo Gaja's 'Idda' from Carricante grapes grown on the slopes of Mount Etna recently and it was this that kicked off the idea.
Gaja's Piedmont wines are mainly found in the cellars of the world's best restaurants and are simply unaffordable, so Idda at €65 is almost a bargain (almost).
Also on the Sicily shelf watch out for Grillo, Catarratto and Inzolio and in red Nero d'Avola and Nerello Mascalese. I am due to visit Etna this September so I will have more to say on Sicily later in the year.
Italy in general is a treasure trove of indigenous grapes, watch also for Greco, Falanghina, Pecorino, Garganega (Soave) and Fiano (Lidl have a good one).
The entry level white below is from Godello, which has similar texture to Albarino but frequently more character. Also from Galicia watch for Treixadura (Ribeira), Loureira and Caiño Branco.
These Galician grapes are also found in Portugal where you should try Antão Vaz, Arinto, Roupeiro, Encruzado and Fernão Pires to name just a few.
Clio below is made with Assyrtiko which you may know but also Roditis and Savatino.
Also from Greece watch for Moschofilero, Malagousia, Robolo and many others. I will return to this subject in a couple of weeks.
Alma Godello, Monterrei, Spain €13.56
Alma Godello, Monterrei, Spain €13.56
O'Briens;
Normally €17 this is a solid intro to the joys of Godello, Galicia's other great white grape. Monterrei is in southern Galicia on the Minho river but this grape is at its finest in Valdeorras further north or in Bierzo to the east.
Baked pear and apple fruits with a hint of bitter lemon, creamy and layered with stony freshness and a bitter lemon zing.
Clio The White Muse, Viotia, Greece, €19
Clio The White Muse, Viotia, Greece, €19
Cavavin Limerick & Galway; The Carpenter; The Lep; Wine Pair; Sweeneys;
From just north of Thebes (home of Dionysis) in the Valley of the Muses beside Mount Helicon.
This is a blend of Assyrtiko, Roditis and Savatiano, three of Greece's best white grapes.
Lime, peach and pineapple aromas, sapid, fruity and juicy with delightful texture and balancing acidity; this worked brilliantly with barbecued pork chops.
Idda by Gaja & Graci, Etna Bianco, Sicily, €65.99
Idda by Gaja & Graci, Etna Bianco, Sicily, €65.99
The Parting Glass; Foleys; and in the likes of Bar Italia, Chapter One and Ballyfin.
Yes, it's expensive but it is a collab between Angelo Gaja & Alberto Graci.
From late-ripening Carricante, this has aromas of grapefruit, anise and a touch of heady jasmine flowers; pristine and vibrant on first sip with weight and complexity following immediately and a taut finish with lingering minerality and salinity.
Fascinating.
Spirit of the Week
Hawk's Rock 'Garavogue' 20 yr Single Malt, 47% ABV, €199
Hawk's Rock 'Garavogue' 20 yr Single Malt, 47% ABV, €199
World Wide Wines; CarryOut (e.g. Killarney); Celtic Whiskey; Matsons;
The debut release from Sligo's Hawk's Rock Distillery, the first under Sazerac. Master Blender Helen Mulholland has come out strong with this stunner.
Created from several cask finishes including Sauternes, Muscat, Rum and PX, yet they all melds seamlessly.
Floral, honey and peach aromas, supple and beautifully smooth, pepper and fresh fruits on the finish.
Whiskey of the year (so far!).
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Wine with Leslie: Keep it in the family with these wine selections
