26-07-2025
Everything you need to know about Austrian wine
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
I first came across Austrian wine around 30 years ago in San Francisco, of all places, at a restaurant called The Slanted Door that served Vietnamese food, with which I was equally unfamiliar. I was blown away by a fresh, peppery white called grüner veltliner — a wine made from a grape of the same name — along with how well it suited the dishes we'd ordered.
Since then, it's become hugely popular. Almost every supermarket has an own-label grüner and it's still my go-to with most Southeast Asian food. Although it accounts for a third of Austrian wine production — approximately 70% of of which is white — grüner is not the only type in town. Austria also produces world-class riesling, generally drier than those from Germany, along with some stunning sauvignon blancs and chardonnays, the latter known locally as morillon. Then there are some seductively soft, supple reds made mainly from zweigelt (the most widely planted red variety) and sumptuous, sweet blaufränkisch wines (Austria has its own protected designation of origin, Ruster Ausbruch). Add to this the sparkling wines, known in Germany as 'sekt', it's hard to avoid the conclusion that Austria has it all.
Not to mention it has one of the most alluring wine tourism destinations on the outskirts of Vienna. On a balmy summer evening, there's nothing better than heading up into the hills and sitting in one of the many heurigers. These taverns serve the local wiener gemischter satz, or 'Viennese field blend', the official term for the light, aromatic white wines made from grapes that are randomly intermingled in a vineyard — the traditional way of planting before vineyards were devoted to a single variety.
Other Austrian regions to look out for are Burgenland, traditionally the source of some of the best reds and sweet wines; Wachau, largely for grüner and riesling; and Styria, which has some of the most stunning full-flavoured sauvignon blancs.
Wherever you go in the country, it's hard to overstate Austrians' passion for wine. Which is why the 1980s scandal, during which a number of its wineries were found to have adulterated their wines with diethylene glycol (an ingredient used in antifreeze), must have cut them to the quick. However, nothing of the kind has happened since, and the quality consistently increases. Indeed, Austrian wines remain one of the most reliable options on restaurant wine lists.
A comparatively high proportion — as much as 24% — of the country's vineyards are certified organic or biodynamic, and you'll tend to find these wines in many of the capital's coolest restaurants and wine bars. But if a weekend away isn't on the cards, Newcomer Wines in Dalston, east London, specialises in Austrian varieties and runs tasting sessions. Five Austrian wines to try
Unearthed Gemischter Satz 2024
It's hugely enterprising of Aldi to have recently taken on this field blend of different white grape varieties. These combinations create a fresh, aromatic wine to sip as an aperitif or enjoy with dim sum or spicy snacks. £8.99.
Waitrose No 1 Grüner Veltliner 2023/4
Waitrose, an early adopter of grüner veltliner, has a classic peppery example in its No 1 range, made by the excellent Markus Huber (who features on other own-brand labels). Great with Vietnamese food but also perfect with schnitzel. £12.
The Society's Austrian Red 2023
This juicy and eminently affordable wine, based on the native zweigelt grape, is the perfect introduction to Austrian reds. Swig it at a barbecue, sip it with salami or enjoy it with pizza — it goes with practically anything. £9.50.
Weingut Bründlmayer Kamptal Riesling Terrassen 2022/3
Austria's rieslings are among its best and costliest wines. This organic example — fruity but piercingly sharp and intense — is well worth the price. Drink it with spiced Asian food or smoked salmon. £23.95.
Jurtschitsch Brut Rosé Klassik
Another wine based on zweigelt, this time a fruity sekt — the sparkling rosé that's Austria's answer to pink champagne. Have it outdoors on a summer evening, ideally in Vienna, and all will be right with the world. £34. Published in Issue 28 (summer 2025) of Food by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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