7 days ago
Champagne Palmer Offers Underrated Pleasures
Vineyards of Champagne Palmer, Verzenay, Montagne de Reims
So many Champagnes, so little time …
Chances are there are many Champagne houses you've never heard of. This is true everywhere, be in Napa Valley, Tuscany, Burgundy or several other famous wine regions. There are only so many producers in any particular region that receive sufficient attention; perhaps they're more famous, or have more money to spend, but whatever the reasons, many excellent wine producers the world over are consistently underrated.
You can easily put Champagne Palmer, located in Reims, one of the region's most famous cities, on a list of under appreciated producers. Founded in 1947 by seven growers with vineyards in the Montage de Reims area of Champagne, today the company is a cooperative with more than 200 members who farm more than 500 acres in several parts of Champagne, including the Côte des Blancs and the Montagne de Reims.
Rémi Vervier, Managing Director and Oenologist at Champagne Palmer
I recently met with Rémi Vervier, Managing Director at Champagne Palmer, and tasted out several new releases as well as one older vintage Champagne. Beginning with their non-vintage La Réserve, a blend of Chardonnay (50%), Pinot Noir (35%) and Meunier (15%), and continuing through the 2015 Grand Terroirs, he spoke about this last cuvée and the philosophy of the founders of Champagne Palmer in general. 'The first Champagne the founders produced was in that spirit,' he remarked. 'It's a combination of Chardonnay, even if all of the Chardonnay comes from the Montagne de Reims (unusual for the Champagne region), so it's very fresh, it's more Pinot-Noir oriented, and only Premier Cru and Grand Cru from the Montagne de Reims.'
For Vervier 2015 was, ' an interesting vintage, a warm vintage, with very fruity expression. 'But a very fragile expression of the vineyard which looks to the north. It conserves the freshness, the liveliness of the wine. Even in a warm year like 2015, you still have this freshness, the elegant bitterness that sustains the fruitiness that you have in a warm vintage. It's something that makes you salivate; there a sort of saltiness.' As far as that sharp edge, it's fine for Vervier; 'sometimes bitterness can frighten people, but it's really useful for the wines.'
As for one year being better than another based on too much heat, a phenomenon only recently occurring in Champagne, Verview comments; 'the best Champagnes are a combination of everything: the weather conditions, the location; it's very complex.'
Here are my notes on the Champagne Palmer cuvées I recently tasted in Chicago:
La Réserve (non-vintage): Light yeastiness on the nose; lemon essence perfumes; very well balanced with notable persistence. An impressive cuvée that is an ideal way to start a meal. Enjoy over the next four to six years. (92)
La Réserve Nature (non-vintage) - A blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier, this is similar to the wine above, except for the fact that this wine has zero dosage. This is quite dry and has a distinct note of minerality; there are lemon and candied fruit notes. This is among the finest non-vintage Champagnes available today. This will drink well over the next six to seven years. (94)
Blanc de Blancs 2018 - 100% Chardonnay from the Montagne de Reims. Lemon pulp aromas with a delicate nuttiness in the finish. Medium-full, this is quite elegant with very good acidity and impressive complexity; enjoy over the next five to seven years. (92)
Rosé Solera (non-vintage) - Here is a unique Rosé Champagne, a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier that uses eight percent of solera Pinot Noir started 40 years ago kept in stainless steel tanks as a perpetual reserve Champagne. Quite ripe, with flavors of red currant and strawberry, this displays impressive complexity; pair with steak or many red meats; enjoy over the next five to seven years. (91)
Grand Terroirs 2015 - A blend of Chardonnay (50%), Pinot Noir (38%) and Meunier (12%), this is an harmonious, complex Champagne that beautifully displays the house style of Champagne Palmer. Medium-full, with aromas of orange peel and yeast, this can stand up to roast veal or filet mignon equally well; enjoy over the next seven to ten years. (93)Older Vintage bottles (vintage 1996) stored "Sur pointe" in the cellars of Champagne Palmer
1997 Vintage Collection – Along with their current releases, Champagne Palmer also has older cuvées in their cellars, including such renowned recent vintages such as 1976, 1979, 1985 and 1989. I tasted the 1997, a blend of Chardonnay (53%), Pinot Noir (24%) and Meunier (23%)
Deep golden yellow; aromas of bread, dried pear, hazelnut and dried orange peel. Medium-full, with impressive richness, good acidity, impressive persistence and a powerful finish, with notes of stone fruit; there is a distinct minerality that completes the experience of this wine. How well you will enjoy this wine depends on your tastes – do you prefer younger Champagnes a year or two after release, or are seduced by older cuvées that are powerful and have a sensation of dried apples and baked bread? Regardless, this is a special wine that still have excellent character and freshness after 18 years, pair with veal roast or lobster roll. (94)
