01-08-2025
Visit Newcomer Peregrine for Bengali Chicken, Stay for the Red Bull Dessert
is an editor of Eater's South region, covering Atlanta, Nashville, Miami, New Orleans, and the Carolinas. She has been writing about the food scene in the Carolinas and Savannah for 12 years. Erin has resided in Charleston, South Carolina, for the past 20 years.
Welcome to the first installment of Scene Report in the Carolinas, a new column in which Eater captures the vibe of a notable North or South Carolina restaurants at a specific moment in time.
To describe Raleigh newcomer Peregrine as 'Southeast Asian' cuisine is too narrow, and to say 'global' is a bit broad (really, can any one restaurant represent the entire world?). Peregrine is chef Saif Rahman's life on a menu. He was born in Bangladesh, lived in Queens, married a woman from Mexico, and now lives in North Carolina. All of these cultures combine to make Peregrine, along with a handsome setting, thanks to co-owner Patrick Shanahan.
The vibe: Peregrine is located in the new mixed-use development the Exchange, but the sleek interiors and verdant surroundings do a good job of erasing the memory of a 20-minute Uber from downtown Raleigh, past several strip malls, and wondering if the driver is lost. (Note: This writer worked in Raleigh in the early aughts and doesn't remember anywhere being referred to as 'Midtown.') Inside are grand arches, Roman clay walls, Moroccan lime plaster, large pots of greenery, and recessed lighting to set the scene (Shanahan is a filmmaker after all).
The soundtrack is bouncy with house and disco music. The other diners are mostly couples on a date night and young professional friends out for a fancy evening.
Chicken skins and bubbles. Tim Waldron
What to drink: The Tokyo Highball is a refreshing start to the evening with a punch of lemon and ginger to even out the burn from the Japanese whisky. The sommelier/maitre d', Amy Ostrout, makes great recommendations. Follow whatever she tells you. The Nero d'Avola sparkling rosé ($16) is an artful pairing with the berbere-seasoned chicken skins with chicken fat aioli ($15).
On the menu: If you've been following Peregrine, you've probably seen the Bengali wedding chicken ($42) all over Instagram with its menacing claw hanging off the plate — order it. If you're squeamish, ask your date to break down the half chicken, and then have a good think about where your meat really comes from. The 'yummy sauce' (their words, not ours) is indeed 'yummy' with soft notes of baking spices and richness that elevate the humble bird.
The tallow-roasted carrots ($15) are a vegetarian's nightmare because the humble root vegetable is confited in beef fat. The salsa matcha (with chapulines) topping the dish is an homage to Rahman's wife's Mexican heritage. This bite will have you question: Is this really a carrot?
Don't skip dessert. Pastry chef Khoi Trong Ha puts out some really fun sweets, including a truffle inspired by the gas station Sheetz — spoiler alert, it's filled with Red Bull.
Go here for: An unexpected meal in an unexpected place, even if you have to tell your Uber driver, 'Yes, I'm sure this is where I'm supposed to be going.'
