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Boston Globe
13-05-2025
- General
- Boston Globe
Recipe: Celebrate spring with a super green soup of asparagus, spinach, leeks, and peas
Serves 6 The color and taste of spring are more than welcome right now. This soup is so green it's almost startling. The bright color comes from spinach, peas, and asparagus. Start by making a quick stock from the woody ends of the asparagus. Saute leeks in olive oil, add potatoes, and the stock, and simmer until tender. Then the colorful green trio goes into the pot, and it all winds up in a blender to turn it into a smooth, creamy soup without any cream. Sprinkle bowls with crunchy toasted almonds and a few snipped fresh herbs. ¼ cup sliced almonds 1½ pounds fresh asparagus, well rinsed 4 cups chicken stock 4 cups water Salt and pepper, to taste 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 large leeks, white and green parts, halved lengthwise, thinly sliced, and well rinsed to remove sand 2 medium Yukon Gold or other yellow potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks 3 ounces baby spinach 1 cup frozen peas Juice of 1/2 lemon, or more to taste Handful chives or dill fronds, snipped or coarsely chopped (for garnish) 1. Set the oven at 350 degrees. Have on hand a small baking sheet or pie pan. 2. Spread the almonds in the pan. Transfer to the oven and toast for 8 to 10 minutes, or until they are lightly browned. 3. Snap off the woody ends of the asparagus spears; set aside. Slice the trimmed spears into 2-inch pieces; set aside. 4. Slice the asparagus ends into 2-inch pieces. Transfer them to a large saucepan. Add the stock, water, and a large pinch of salt. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and partially cover the pan. Simmer for 25 minutes. 5. In a soup pot over medium heat, heat the oil. Add the leeks and cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes, or until they soften but do not brown. Set a colander over the pot. Pour the asparagus stock through the colander into the pot. Discard the woody ends. 6. Add the potatoes to the pot. Turn the heat to medium-high. Bring the liquid to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer for 12 to 15 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender when pierced with the tip of a knife. 7. Stir in the reserved asparagus tops. Return to a simmer and cook for 3 minutes, or until they are tender but still bright green. 8. Remove the pot from the heat. Add the spinach and peas. Stir for 1 minute, or until the spinach wilts. 9. In a blender, puree the soup in batches until smooth. Stir in the lemon juice, and a pinch each of salt and pepper. Return the soup to the pot and bring to a simmer. Taste for seasoning and add more lemon juice, salt, or pepper, if you like. 10. Ladle the soup into bowls and sprinkle with chives or dill and toasted almonds. Sally Pasley Vargas Serves 6 The color and taste of spring are more than welcome right now. This soup is so green it's almost startling. The bright color comes from spinach, peas, and asparagus. Start by making a quick stock from the woody ends of the asparagus. Saute leeks in olive oil, add potatoes, and the stock, and simmer until tender. Then the colorful green trio goes into the pot, and it all winds up in a blender to turn it into a smooth, creamy soup without any cream. Sprinkle bowls with crunchy toasted almonds and a few snipped fresh herbs. ¼ cup sliced almonds 1½ pounds fresh asparagus, well rinsed 4 cups chicken stock 4 cups water Salt and pepper, to taste 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 large leeks, white and green parts, halved lengthwise, thinly sliced, and well rinsed to remove sand 2 medium Yukon Gold or other yellow potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks 3 ounces baby spinach 1 cup frozen peas Juice of 1/2 lemon, or more to taste Handful chives or dill fronds, snipped or coarsely chopped (for garnish) 1. Set the oven at 350 degrees. Have on hand a small baking sheet or pie pan. 2. Spread the almonds in the pan. Transfer to the oven and toast for 8 to 10 minutes, or until they are lightly browned. 3. Snap off the woody ends of the asparagus spears; set aside. Slice the trimmed spears into 2-inch pieces; set aside. 4. Slice the asparagus ends into 2-inch pieces. Transfer them to a large saucepan. Add the stock, water, and a large pinch of salt. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and partially cover the pan. Simmer for 25 minutes. 5. In a soup pot over medium heat, heat the oil. Add the leeks and cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes, or until they soften but do not brown. Set a colander over the pot. Pour the asparagus stock through the colander into the pot. Discard the woody ends. 6. Add the potatoes to the pot. Turn the heat to medium-high. Bring the liquid to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer for 12 to 15 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender when pierced with the tip of a knife. 7. Stir in the reserved asparagus tops. Return to a simmer and cook for 3 minutes, or until they are tender but still bright green. 8. Remove the pot from the heat. Add the spinach and peas. Stir for 1 minute, or until the spinach wilts. 9. In a blender, puree the soup in batches until smooth. Stir in the lemon juice, and a pinch each of salt and pepper. Return the soup to the pot and bring to a simmer. Taste for seasoning and add more lemon juice, salt, or pepper, if you like. 10. Ladle the soup into bowls and sprinkle with chives or dill and toasted almonds. Sally Pasley Vargas
Boston Globe
22-04-2025
- General
- Boston Globe
Recipe: Roll pizza dough into thin, crunchy crackers and top with potato and prosciutto for aperitifs or dinner
Pizza Crackers with Potato and Prosciutto Sally Pasley Vargas for The Boston Globe Serves 4 as dinner or 8 cut into pieces These thin, elongated flatbreads, which we're calling pizza crackers, topped with potato and prosciutto, are inspired by Italian lingue pizzas (lingue means ''tongue'' in Italian). They're ideal for snacking, a light lunch, or serving with an aperitif. Although the pizzas are sometimes made with a simple dough of flour, water, and salt, and brushed with a light layer of tomato sauce, this homemade overnight pizza dough (with yeast) has a lot more flavor. Just mix the ingredients and set the dough aside at room temperature to rise for 8 to 12 hours. No kneading or heavy lifting necessary. You can also buy a one-pound piece of dough at the market. The keyword here is thin. Roll the dough thinly, slice potatoes and shallots thinly on a mandoline or take your time and slice them thinly with a sharp chef's knife. Prosciutto, of course, comes thinly sliced. They all go onto the long pieces of dough with a little olive oil, baked on a low shelf in the oven (you can use a pizza stone if you have one), and then briefly crisped under the broiler to char the edges a little. The crackly pizzas are crunchy, salty, and irresistible. DOUGH 2½ cups flour 1 teaspoon fine sea salt ¼ teaspoon instant yeast (not rapid rise) ¾ cup water 2 tablespoons olive oil 1. In a bowl, mix the flour, salt, and yeast until blended. Make a well in the center and add the water and olive oil. Mix with your hands or a rubber spatula until thoroughly combined. 2. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and set aside at room temperature to rise for 8 to 12 hours, or until at least doubled in bulk. TOPPING Extra flour (for sprinkling) ¼ cup olive oil, or more if needed 2 medium Yukon Gold or other yellow potatoes, thinly sliced on a mandoline or with a chef's knife (keep slices in a bowl of water) Flaky sea salt (for sprinkling) 2 large shallots, thinly sliced on a mandoline or with a chef's knife 4 ounces prosciutto, torn into pieces Black pepper, to taste 4 sprigs fresh rosemary, leaves removed 1. Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. Position an oven rack 6 inches from the broiler element. Set another oven rack at the lowest position. If you have a baking stone, place it on the bottom rack. Set the oven at 500 degrees. 2. Turn the dough out onto a floured work counter. Divide it into 4 equal pieces. Dimple the pieces with your fingertips to flatten them into an oblong shape. Cover with a kitchen towel and leave to rest for 10 minutes. 3. Use a rolling pin to roll each piece of dough into a 12-by-5-inch oblong. The dough should be almost transparent. If it snaps back, set it aside for a few minutes to rest, then roll again. Place 2 pieces on each baking sheet and brush with oil. 4. Spread a clean kitchen towel on the counter. With your hands, lift the potatoes out of the water and spread them on the towel. Cover them with another towel and pat dry. Divide the potatoes among the 4 pieces of dough, overlapping the slices. Sprinkle with olive oil and a few pinches of flaky salt. 5. Spread the shallots on top, then add the prosciutto. Sprinkle with more olive oil and sprinkle with black pepper. 6. Bake 1 sheet of the pizzas at a time. Place a sheet on the lowest oven rack. Bake for 15 minutes. Turn on the broiler. Set the sheet on the top oven rack and broil for 1 to 1 1/2 minutes, watching them carefully, or until the potato edges are a little charred and the prosciutto is crispy. Remove the pan from the oven. Turn the oven down to 500 degrees and bake the other sheet in the same way. 7. Sprinkle the pizzas with rosemary. Serve 1 per person or cut each pizza into 4 slices to serve 8 as an hors d'oeuvre or appetizer. Sally Pasley Vargas Serves 4 as dinner or 8 cut into pieces These thin, elongated flatbreads, which we're calling pizza crackers, topped with potato and prosciutto, are inspired by Italian lingue pizzas (lingue means ''tongue'' in Italian). They're ideal for snacking, a light lunch, or serving with an aperitif. Although the pizzas are sometimes made with a simple dough of flour, water, and salt, and brushed with a light layer of tomato sauce, this homemade overnight pizza dough (with yeast) has a lot more flavor. Just mix the ingredients and set the dough aside at room temperature to rise for 8 to 12 hours. No kneading or heavy lifting necessary. You can also buy a one-pound piece of dough at the market. The keyword here is thin. Roll the dough thinly, slice potatoes and shallots thinly on a mandoline or take your time and slice them thinly with a sharp chef's knife. Prosciutto, of course, comes thinly sliced. They all go onto the long pieces of dough with a little olive oil, baked on a low shelf in the oven (you can use a pizza stone if you have one), and then briefly crisped under the broiler to char the edges a little. The crackly pizzas are crunchy, salty, and irresistible. DOUGH 2½ cups flour 1 teaspoon fine sea salt ¼ teaspoon instant yeast (not rapid rise) ¾ cup water 2 tablespoons olive oil 1. In a bowl, mix the flour, salt, and yeast until blended. Make a well in the center and add the water and olive oil. Mix with your hands or a rubber spatula until thoroughly combined. 2. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and set aside at room temperature to rise for 8 to 12 hours, or until at least doubled in bulk. TOPPING Extra flour (for sprinkling) ¼ cup olive oil, or more if needed 2 medium Yukon Gold or other yellow potatoes, thinly sliced on a mandoline or with a chef's knife (keep slices in a bowl of water) Flaky sea salt (for sprinkling) 2 large shallots, thinly sliced on a mandoline or with a chef's knife 4 ounces prosciutto, torn into pieces Black pepper, to taste 4 sprigs fresh rosemary, leaves removed 1. Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. Position an oven rack 6 inches from the broiler element. Set another oven rack at the lowest position. If you have a baking stone, place it on the bottom rack. Set the oven at 500 degrees. 2. Turn the dough out onto a floured work counter. Divide it into 4 equal pieces. Dimple the pieces with your fingertips to flatten them into an oblong shape. Cover with a kitchen towel and leave to rest for 10 minutes. 3. Use a rolling pin to roll each piece of dough into a 12-by-5-inch oblong. The dough should be almost transparent. If it snaps back, set it aside for a few minutes to rest, then roll again. Place 2 pieces on each baking sheet and brush with oil. 4. Spread a clean kitchen towel on the counter. With your hands, lift the potatoes out of the water and spread them on the towel. Cover them with another towel and pat dry. Divide the potatoes among the 4 pieces of dough, overlapping the slices. Sprinkle with olive oil and a few pinches of flaky salt. 5. Spread the shallots on top, then add the prosciutto. Sprinkle with more olive oil and sprinkle with black pepper. 6. Bake 1 sheet of the pizzas at a time. Place a sheet on the lowest oven rack. Bake for 15 minutes. Turn on the broiler. Set the sheet on the top oven rack and broil for 1 to 1 1/2 minutes, watching them carefully, or until the potato edges are a little charred and the prosciutto is crispy. Remove the pan from the oven. Turn the oven down to 500 degrees and bake the other sheet in the same way. 7. Sprinkle the pizzas with rosemary. Serve 1 per person or cut each pizza into 4 slices to serve 8 as an hors d'oeuvre or appetizer. Sally Pasley Vargas
Boston Globe
08-04-2025
- General
- Boston Globe
Recipe: For Passover, roast chicken pieces on a bed of vegetables and tuck in asparagus at the last minute
Serves 6 A one-pan chicken dish for Passover begins with shallots, potatoes, fennel, and carrots roasted until almost tender. The vegetables are topped with chicken pieces (cut up a whole chicken or use parts) with some chicken stock and a touch of vinegar added to the pan. When they finish roasting, the delicious juices produce a flavorful sauce. Add short lengths of asparagus to the vegetables at the last minute. To keep the spears bright and appealing, steam them on the stovetop while the chicken roasts. Toss everything together and serve in a deep platter or straight from the pan garnished with pretty fennel fronds. That was easy! 1 lemon 8 shallots, halved or quartered, if large 8 baby potatoes, halved 1 bulb fresh fennel, stalks trimmed (save the fronds), bulb quartered, cored, and thickly sliced 6 slim carrots, cut into 3-inch lengths 4 cloves garlic, unpeeled and whole Salt and pepper, to taste 4 sprigs fresh thyme 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 cup chicken stock 1 tablespoon white balsamic vinegar or white wine vinegar 1 whole chicken cut into 8 pieces, or a combination of 2 bone-in, skin-on breasts and 4 bone-in, skin-on thighs Extra olive oil (for brushing) 10 spears fresh asparagus, woody ends removed, spears cut into 3-inch pieces Fennel fronds (for garnish) 1. Set the oven at 425 degrees. Have on hand a large roasting pan. 2. Cut four 1/4-inch-thick slices from the lemon and reserve the remaining lemon. 3. In the roasting pan, combine the lemon slices, shallots, potatoes, fennel, carrots, garlic, a generous pinch each of salt and pepper, and the thyme sprigs. Sprinkle with the 2 tablespoons olive oil and toss until coated all over. 4. Roast for 25 minutes, or until the vegetables start to soften and begin to char slightly at the edges. 5. Remove the pan from the oven. Stir the stock and vinegar into the vegetables. Place the chicken pieces, skin side up, on top. Brush the chicken skin with olive oil. Squeeze the juice from the reserved lemon over the chicken. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. 6. Return the pan to the oven. Continue roasting for 25 minutes, or until the chicken is golden brown and a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the chicken registers 165 degrees. 7. While the chicken roasts, fill a saucepan with 1 inch of water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the asparagus, cover the pan, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, or until the asparagus pieces are bright green and tender. Use a slotted spoon to remove them from the pan. 8. Transfer the chicken pieces to a bowl. Gently fold the asparagus into the vegetables. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper, if you like. Spoon the vegetables and sauce onto a deep platter, top with chicken, and garnish with fennel fronds. Sally Pasley Vargas Serves 6 A one-pan chicken dish for Passover begins with shallots, potatoes, fennel, and carrots roasted until almost tender. The vegetables are topped with chicken pieces (cut up a whole chicken or use parts) with some chicken stock and a touch of vinegar added to the pan. When they finish roasting, the delicious juices produce a flavorful sauce. Add short lengths of asparagus to the vegetables at the last minute. To keep the spears bright and appealing, steam them on the stovetop while the chicken roasts. Toss everything together and serve in a deep platter or straight from the pan garnished with pretty fennel fronds. That was easy! 1 lemon 8 shallots, halved or quartered, if large 8 baby potatoes, halved 1 bulb fresh fennel, stalks trimmed (save the fronds), bulb quartered, cored, and thickly sliced 6 slim carrots, cut into 3-inch lengths 4 cloves garlic, unpeeled and whole Salt and pepper, to taste 4 sprigs fresh thyme 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 cup chicken stock 1 tablespoon white balsamic vinegar or white wine vinegar 1 whole chicken cut into 8 pieces, or a combination of 2 bone-in, skin-on breasts and 4 bone-in, skin-on thighs Extra olive oil (for brushing) 10 spears fresh asparagus, woody ends removed, spears cut into 3-inch pieces Fennel fronds (for garnish) 1. Set the oven at 425 degrees. Have on hand a large roasting pan. 2. Cut four 1/4-inch-thick slices from the lemon and reserve the remaining lemon. 3. In the roasting pan, combine the lemon slices, shallots, potatoes, fennel, carrots, garlic, a generous pinch each of salt and pepper, and the thyme sprigs. Sprinkle with the 2 tablespoons olive oil and toss until coated all over. 4. Roast for 25 minutes, or until the vegetables start to soften and begin to char slightly at the edges. 5. Remove the pan from the oven. Stir the stock and vinegar into the vegetables. Place the chicken pieces, skin side up, on top. Brush the chicken skin with olive oil. Squeeze the juice from the reserved lemon over the chicken. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. 6. Return the pan to the oven. Continue roasting for 25 minutes, or until the chicken is golden brown and a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the chicken registers 165 degrees. 7. While the chicken roasts, fill a saucepan with 1 inch of water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the asparagus, cover the pan, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, or until the asparagus pieces are bright green and tender. Use a slotted spoon to remove them from the pan. 8. Transfer the chicken pieces to a bowl. Gently fold the asparagus into the vegetables. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper, if you like. Spoon the vegetables and sauce onto a deep platter, top with chicken, and garnish with fennel fronds. Sally Pasley Vargas
Boston Globe
11-03-2025
- General
- Boston Globe
Recipe: Sausages and lentils are humble ingredients that add up to big flavors in this hearty stew
Sausages and Lentils Sally Pasley Vargas for The Boston Globe Serves 4 A humble dish of sausages and lentils delivers a surprising amount of flavor with just a few ingredients. Tomato paste, smoked paprika, and a little vinegar merge with meaty sausages to create a dish for a weeknight supper or guests. There are many sausages in the market to choose from, made from either chicken or pork. If you're looking for chicken, you can find mild to spicy Italian sausages, sausages with feta, sausages with jalapenos. Pork offers just as many varieties: sweet or spicy Italian, Cajun-style andouille, even Irish bangers. Pick your favorite. Lentils here are green, which have a slightly peppery flavor and hold their shape better during than brown lentils. The dish is stewy and topped with soft breadcrumbs tossed with olive oil. Run the finished dish under the broiler briefly for an irresistibly crunchy crust. Don't forget crusty bread to soak up the juices. 6 fresh chicken or pork sausages (about 1 pound) 3 tablespoons olive oil 5 large shallots, peeled and quartered 4 carrots, cut into 1/2-inch-thick rounds 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 2 tablespoons tomato paste 1 rounded teaspoon smoked paprika Pinch of crushed red pepper, or more to taste 1¼ cups green lentils, rinsed in a strainer and drained 4 cups chicken stock 1 cup water 2 tablespoons sherry vinegar or white wine vinegar Salt, to taste 1 cup fresh white breadcrumbs 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley (for garnish) 1. Have on hand a large flameproof casserole, Dutch oven, or soup pot with a lid. 2. With the tip of a paring knife, prick each sausage in a few places. 3. Set the pan over medium-high heat. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil. Add the sausages and cook, turning often with tongs, for 5 minutes, or until they are browned all over. Transfer to a plate. 4. Add the shallots and carrots to the pan. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes, or until the vegetables are lightly browned in places. 5. Add the garlic, tomato paste, paprika, and red pepper. Cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes, or until the tomato paste darkens. 6. Stir in the lentils, stock, water, vinegar, and a generous pinch of salt. Place the sausages on top. Bring to a boil and set on the cover askew. Lower the heat to maintain a steady simmer. Simmer for 30 to 35 minutes, or until the lentils and vegetables are tender. 7. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, toss the breadcrumbs with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. Set a rack in the center position of the oven and turn on the broiler. 8. Remove the pan from the heat. Sprinkle the breadcrumbs on top. Slide the pan under the broiler. Broil for 1 to 2 minutes, or until the breadcrumbs brown. Watch carefully; this takes 1 to 2 minutes. Sprinkle with parsley. Serve in shallow bowls with crusty bread. Sally Pasley Vargas Serves 4 A humble dish of sausages and lentils delivers a surprising amount of flavor with just a few ingredients. Tomato paste, smoked paprika, and a little vinegar merge with meaty sausages to create a dish for a weeknight supper or guests. There are many sausages in the market to choose from, made from either chicken or pork. If you're looking for chicken, you can find mild to spicy Italian sausages, sausages with feta, sausages with jalapenos. Pork offers just as many varieties: sweet or spicy Italian, Cajun-style andouille, even Irish bangers. Pick your favorite. Lentils here are green, which have a slightly peppery flavor and hold their shape better during than brown lentils. The dish is stewy and topped with soft breadcrumbs tossed with olive oil. Run the finished dish under the broiler briefly for an irresistibly crunchy crust. Don't forget crusty bread to soak up the juices. 6 fresh chicken or pork sausages (about 1 pound) 3 tablespoons olive oil 5 large shallots, peeled and quartered 4 carrots, cut into 1/2-inch-thick rounds 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 2 tablespoons tomato paste 1 rounded teaspoon smoked paprika Pinch of crushed red pepper, or more to taste 1¼ cups green lentils, rinsed in a strainer and drained 4 cups chicken stock 1 cup water 2 tablespoons sherry vinegar or white wine vinegar Salt, to taste 1 cup fresh white breadcrumbs 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley (for garnish) 1. Have on hand a large flameproof casserole, Dutch oven, or soup pot with a lid. 2. With the tip of a paring knife, prick each sausage in a few places. 3. Set the pan over medium-high heat. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil. Add the sausages and cook, turning often with tongs, for 5 minutes, or until they are browned all over. Transfer to a plate. 4. Add the shallots and carrots to the pan. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes, or until the vegetables are lightly browned in places. 5. Add the garlic, tomato paste, paprika, and red pepper. Cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes, or until the tomato paste darkens. 6. Stir in the lentils, stock, water, vinegar, and a generous pinch of salt. Place the sausages on top. Bring to a boil and set on the cover askew. Lower the heat to maintain a steady simmer. Simmer for 30 to 35 minutes, or until the lentils and vegetables are tender. 7. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, toss the breadcrumbs with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. Set a rack in the center position of the oven and turn on the broiler. 8. Remove the pan from the heat. Sprinkle the breadcrumbs on top. Slide the pan under the broiler. Broil for 1 to 2 minutes, or until the breadcrumbs brown. Watch carefully; this takes 1 to 2 minutes. Sprinkle with parsley. Serve in shallow bowls with crusty bread. Sally Pasley Vargas
Boston Globe
18-02-2025
- General
- Boston Globe
Bucatini all'Amatriciana (pasta with spicy tomato sauce)
Serves 4 While often thought of as a Roman dish, Bucatini all'Amatriciana originated in the town of Amatrice, northeast of Rome. It's a dish made with a kind of thick spaghetti (bucatini's long strands are hollow), spicy tomato sauce, and guanciale (cured pork cheek). Before tomatoes were introduced to Italy in the 16th century, the dish was known as Pasta alla Gricia, made using only guanciale, pecorino Romano, and black pepper. Tomatoes and red pepper flakes came later. Today, the ingredients are still few, making this a quick and enticing supper. Guanciale is often hard to find, but diced pancetta, made from cured pork belly, is a good substitute. Don't be tempted to add garlic, onion, or butter to the dish, since they interfere with the essential flavors. Be sure to grate your own cheese. When a dish has only a few ingredients, every one counts. Salt and black pepper, to taste 1 tablespoon olive oil 6 ounces guanciale or pancetta, cut into 1/4-inch chunks ¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper, or more to taste ¼ cup white wine or water 1 can (28 ounces) whole peeled imported tomatoes, crushed in a bowl 1 pound bucatini pasta 1½ ounces pecorino Romano cheese, freshly grated (about 1 cup) Extra freshly grated pecorino Romano (for serving) 1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Turn the heat to low while you make the sauce. 2. In a large skillet over medium heat, heat the olive oil. Add the guanciale or pancetta and cook, stirring often, for 4 to 5 minutes, or until it is golden brown. Add the red pepper and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds. 3. Add the wine or water to the skillet. Cook, stirring with a rubber spatula to scrape up the brown bits on the bottom of the pan, for 1 minute. 4. Add the tomatoes and a pinch each of salt and black pepper. Turn down the heat and let the mixture simmer, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes. Taste for seasoning and add more salt or red pepper, if you like. 5. Meanwhile, return the large pot of water to a boil. Add the bucatini and cook, stirring occasionally for 9 minutes, or 1 minute less than the package directions. The pasta should be slightly undercooked; it cooks a little more in the sauce. With a heatproof measuring cup, scoop out 1 cup of the pasta water. 6. With tongs, remove the pasta from the pot and transfer to the sauce. Add about 1/4 cup of the pasta cooking water. Cook, stirring constantly, for about 1 minute, or until the sauce thickens and coats the pasta. If needed, add more pasta water, a few tablespoons at a time, to keep the sauce from drying out. 7. Remove the pan from the heat. Stir in the cheese. Divide the pasta and sauce among 4 shallow bowls. Serve with extra cheese. Sally Pasley Vargas Serves 4 While often thought of as a Roman dish, Bucatini all'Amatriciana originated in the town of Amatrice, northeast of Rome. It's a dish made with a kind of thick spaghetti (bucatini's long strands are hollow), spicy tomato sauce, and guanciale (cured pork cheek). Before tomatoes were introduced to Italy in the 16th century, the dish was known as Pasta alla Gricia, made using only guanciale, pecorino Romano, and black pepper. Tomatoes and red pepper flakes came later. Today, the ingredients are still few, making this a quick and enticing supper. Guanciale is often hard to find, but diced pancetta, made from cured pork belly, is a good substitute. Don't be tempted to add garlic, onion, or butter to the dish, since they interfere with the essential flavors. Be sure to grate your own cheese. When a dish has only a few ingredients, every one counts. Salt and black pepper, to taste 1 tablespoon olive oil 6 ounces guanciale or pancetta, cut into 1/4-inch chunks ¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper, or more to taste ¼ cup white wine or water 1 can (28 ounces) whole peeled imported tomatoes, crushed in a bowl 1 pound bucatini pasta 1½ ounces pecorino Romano cheese, freshly grated (about 1 cup) Extra freshly grated pecorino Romano (for serving) 1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Turn the heat to low while you make the sauce. 2. In a large skillet over medium heat, heat the olive oil. Add the guanciale or pancetta and cook, stirring often, for 4 to 5 minutes, or until it is golden brown. Add the red pepper and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds. 3. Add the wine or water to the skillet. Cook, stirring with a rubber spatula to scrape up the brown bits on the bottom of the pan, for 1 minute. 4. Add the tomatoes and a pinch each of salt and black pepper. Turn down the heat and let the mixture simmer, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes. Taste for seasoning and add more salt or red pepper, if you like. 5. Meanwhile, return the large pot of water to a boil. Add the bucatini and cook, stirring occasionally for 9 minutes, or 1 minute less than the package directions. The pasta should be slightly undercooked; it cooks a little more in the sauce. With a heatproof measuring cup, scoop out 1 cup of the pasta water. 6. With tongs, remove the pasta from the pot and transfer to the sauce. Add about 1/4 cup of the pasta cooking water. Cook, stirring constantly, for about 1 minute, or until the sauce thickens and coats the pasta. If needed, add more pasta water, a few tablespoons at a time, to keep the sauce from drying out. 7. Remove the pan from the heat. Stir in the cheese. Divide the pasta and sauce among 4 shallow bowls. Serve with extra cheese. Sally Pasley Vargas
