11 hours ago
Skip Florida's rollercoasters & instead opt for swim with gentle giant manatees or kayak along west coast Crystal River
Crystal River has recently been recognised as the manatee capital of the world
A CRYSTAL BALL Skip Florida's rollercoasters & instead opt for swim with gentle giant manatees or kayak along west coast Crystal River
IRISH tourists' love affair with Florida is a long-running romance which shows no sign of abating.
It is, of course, our grá for the gargantuan theme parks that draw so many of us there - but there is so much more to the Sunshine State if you're willing to travel a little further, and dig a little deeper.
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Karl enjoyed a trip to the Crystal River in Florida
Credit: Not , clear with picture desk
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The area is home to the West Indian manatee
Credit: ©CGrant13/
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The Old Courthouse had him thinking of Doc and Marty
Our small group had the chance to visit Crystal River in Citrus County, which is tucked away along with the towns of Inverness, Homosassa and Floral City on Florida's west coast and straddling the Gulf of Mexico – and it is a total joy to visit.
One of the main reasons this area — often called 'Florida's Soul', about an hour's drive from Tampa — is hugely popular with both US and international tourists is because it's the home of the West Indian manatee.
And yes, you get to swim with them.
These gentle giants are slow-moving herbivores that while away their days munching on the sea grasses so abundant in the shallow, crystal-clear springs in the area.
These cuties can reach 3.5 metres in length, sport unique paddle-shaped tails, and have many nicknames — we'll start with Sea Cows for now. There is no doubt they are the undisputed rock star attraction of the area.
So much so, in fact, that Crystal River has recently been recognised as the manatee capital of the world.
Swimming with these 'Chubby Mermaids' (nickname No.2) is a true bucket-list experience, so we donned our wetsuits, boarded our boat with Salty Siren Tours and entered the shallow water to carefully attempt to find them.
Before we knew it, there she was — a huge, grey, plump mass floating gracefully and serenely below me, nudging off my belly as she sauntered about the river bed below, seemingly unconcerned with my presence.
My first encounter with a 'Floaty Potato' (the nicknames are endless, I assure you) took my breath away, but as she was joined by more, including what appeared to be her young calf, I almost reached a state of Zen — staying as still and passive as possible and just enjoying the languor of being in their Yoda-like presence.
You can learn endless titbits of information about this curious creature and all the other species that call these springs home, and how the ecosystem of the entire area was revived in the National Wildlife Refuge close by.
'FULL ON SUMMER VIBES'
Crystal River has full-on summer vibes oozing from its pores, and although off the beach, sand-lovers can still enjoy that experience at Hunter Springs Park — where the man-made white sandy beach on the edge of the spring attracts locals in spades.
You can even spy the manatees while dipping your toes or relaxing on your sun bed there.
Also highly recommended is kayaking or paddleboarding around Kings Bay, a 600-acre natural wonder which boasts over 70 crystal clear springs.
With the fun-loving and knowledgeable Scotty and Lena of Water's Edge Adventures as our guides, we opted for a leisurely paddle around Three Sisters Springs — hopping out of the kayak for a refreshing dip at the halfway stage of our saunter.
Apart from being where the manatees like to hang out, the towns around Crystal River are also draped in stunning, colourful murals at various spots, and the architecture is classic small-town USA.
The bars, restaurants and colourful little stores in the area's towns evoke the Hollywood-tinted image of what I imagined these hamlets always looked like in small-town America.
No more so than in Inverness, and the Old Courthouse had me thinking of Doc and Marty scorching a trail along the main street in a DeLorean in Back To The Future.
EXCITED INNER CHILD
While in Inverness, you can hire a bike from the super-helpful Trek Bikes and cycle the 47-mile Withlacoochee State Trail — named as one of the most beautiful greenways in Florida — or perhaps do the shortened version (that I did) which still takes in the Depot District and the downtown area as you glide along the purpose-built trail.
The flat ride was both energetic and relaxing, eye-catching and good for body and soul.
No trip to Florida would be complete without a ride on an airboat — a mode of transport synonymous with the area for as long as I can remember.
Variously called a fan boat, plane boat, swamp boat and bayou boat — these things are seriously fast and nimble (as well as incredibly noisy, but fear not — ear protectors are provided).
I was again in touch with my excited inner child as we boarded our vessel with Ozello Boats and blazed along the mangrove islands and shallow flats of the Gulf of Mexico, keeping a sharp eye out for the dolphins, juvenile sea turtles and variety of exotic birds and fish that call the Gulf home.
A full-on thrill-ride, no doubt.
Something that would surely delight the small ones is a jaunt around Ellie Schiller Homosassa Springs Wildlife State Park — one of Florida's most visited state parks.
Showcasing a huge variety of the local fauna, the 'animal ambassadors' here were all rescued somewhere in the state after being orphaned or injured, and it gives you and up-close look at American eagles, Florida panthers, bobcats, whooping cranes, alligators and, yes, manatees, among a host of others.
TOP QUALITY HOOCH
Afterwards, why not repair for a tincture to the neighbouring Homosassa Distillery, where you can sample the exquisite spirits made on site in their unique cocktail lounge.
To say the owner is passionate about his work is putting it mildly, and I doff my cap to any man this enthusiastic about his endeavours — especially when it comes to making top-quality hooch.
Our base for our stay was The Paddletail Lodge, named after the manatees which you can often spot floating by from the hotel's waterfront Tiki Bar & Grill, which ticks all the boxes for a relaxing stay in this unique location.
As for food — well, you know America isn't going to leave you wanting. Excellent breakfast choices in Crystal River are The Breakfast Station (make sure you're hungry!) or the boutique Amy's on the Avenue, while lunch overlooking the marina in Bayside Kraft Kitchen is hard to beat.
Another option is Seafood Seller & Cafe — there's a good reason why this place is always busy.
The cool vibes of KC Wine & Bistro and the views of Kings Bay at Waterfront Social should definitely be on your shortlist for dinner here.
BANG FOR YOUR BUCK
In Inverness, java lovers should head to Cattle Dog Coffee Roasters in the morning and try Twysted Vyne for lunch or dinner, where you might even get to hear the next big thing playing tunes in this Florida favourite.
Crump's Landing on the water's edge in Homosassa provides another excellent choice for dinner — and the sunsets are spectacular.
But an absolute must-visit for lunch is Wild Sassa — you'll enjoy some of the finest seafood tacos imaginable and a spectacular wild shrimp quesadilla at this famous and colourful food shack, and get plenty of bang for your buck, too.
But it's all about those manatees here, so next time you visit Florida maybe skip the rollercoasters and spend time with these roly-poly cuties instead.
And when you get to swim with a Sea Potato, tell them I said 'hi'.
Their closest relation is the elephant, so there's a good chance they might remember me.
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No trip to Florida would be complete without a ride on an airboat
Credit:
FACTBOX
GO: Crystal River, Florida
FLY: Several airlines, including Aer Lingus, fly to Tampa from Dublin.
DO: Swim with the manatees with Salty Sirens Tours, Hire a kayak with Race through the mangroves on an air boat with
EAT: There are so many great places to eat, but some highlights are Wild Sassa ( Crump's Landing ( and Bayside Kraft Kitchen (
STAY: The Paddletail Lodge (
For more, visit
