26-05-2025
This secluded North Yorkshire fishing village is perfect for a summer break
Back in the 80s, when the great British holiday was at its peak, I would spend my summers on Sandsend Beach with my sunburnt, trunk-clad father – who looked, then, like a young George Harrison (complete with prolific sideburns) – and mother, more charismatic than Sophia Loren.
We were the cool, working-class family, camped out on the golden sand, with warm sarnies, half-melted ice-creams and a Thermos. We'd competitively build sandcastles, bury each other in the sand and chase the waves.
As we were in Yorkshire, the sea was always 'refreshing'; there was a steady supply of blankets at hand; and raincoats were as obligatory as salty fish and chips wrapped in newspaper. Now, my children are the ones writing their names in this sand.
But this year – as a full-time working mum in need of some peace and quiet – I decided to go it alone, checking into Sandsend's new luxury wellness retreat, Saltmoore, where I walked, spa-ed, ate well, and slept like a baby on crisp Egyptian cotton sheets.
There's something a bit magical about this sleepy, romantically named coastal spot – and visiting feels a bit like walking into a Hayao Miyazaki animation. Here are all the reasons I think you'll like it too.
It's easy to relax
Why do I love Sandsend? For the most part – and despite its many attributes – it's for its chilled-out, family-friendly energy. There's not a lot to do apart from relaxing at the beachside, which makes it easy to switch off.
There are cottage rentals, a couple of beachside cafés (one aptly named for modern times: Wits End Café), a fish and chip shop, and a pub. It's a place to tune out to the soundtrack of the sea.
The petite, three-mile-long sweep of sand sits between tourist favourites Whitby and the tiny village of Lythe, in the Scarborough district of North Yorkshire and the civil parish of Lythe. The latter, set atop a steep hill, is not for the vertically challenged – but it does have a nice array of endearing little village characteristics: a grocery shop, a pub, a school and rows of pretty honey-stone cottages.
Sandsend, meanwhile, is utterly unfussy – with traditional fishing village appeal, a secluded and peaceful sandy shoreline, sublime coastal walks, and a calm inlet perfectly designed for little ones who want to paddle.
The food is unfussy, too. Just across the road, there's The Fish Cottage, a local fish and chip shop (well worth visiting for the terrace and the fish tacos), while a 12-minute drive brings you to the excellent Restaurant Number 20, in nearby Port Mulgrave.
There's plenty to do outdoors
Being on the coastal part of the Cleveland Way, there are various spectacular coastal hikes within easy reach. My family often goes to beautiful Runswick Bay, from where it's a ten-minute drive or just over two hours' to walk the incredible clifftop route from Sandsend to Runswick. Hop on the X4 bus back, or book The High Chapel for the night if you'd like to linger.
You can also join part of The Cinder Track (21.7 miles) in Sandsend, a stunning coastal walking or cycling route from Scarborough to Whitby. It follows the old railway line, which closed in 1965. With Sandsend being on the fringe of the North York Moors National Park, allocate some days to go to the moors or forest – 8,000-acre Dalby Forest is a family favourite for walking, or cycling. In summer, the purple heather-draped moorland close to Sandsend is especially beautiful.
…and convincing reasons to stay indoors, too
If bolting about the wind-whipped countryside isn't your cup of tea, Sandsend offers plenty in the way of comfortable indoor options, too – not least at its newly opened wellness retreat, Saltmoore. Formerly the sprawling Raithwaite Estate, the hotel sits in 85 acres of woodland, sandwiched between the wild moors and the sea. Nature and wildlife are par for the course here; on arrival, I was greeted by a friendly deer, and woke to birdsong each morning. It's a soul-soothing place.
It is, in fact, not one hotel but two – Saltmoore House and The Beach House, and The Sanctuary – a glassy spa and health suite with herbaceous Wildsmith treatments (which will soon include wild swimming), and three restaurants.
At Saltmoore House, there are nods to the sea and moors throughout the design (the handiwork of Sapin Studio and its founder, Madeleine Sadler), while The Beach House is geared more towards families, with coastal design elements and outdoor tubs – great for when you've all just dashed back from the beach.
The three restaurants (overseen by head chef, Adam Maddox, and chef consultant, Tommy Banks) make for another good reason to stay indoors (or reward yourself after one of the aforementioned hikes). There's the outstanding The Brasserie (where I had a superlative Whitby crab tart), a Wellness Café, and Calluna, an immersive fine-dining restaurant (which is not yet open, but I'm assured will be soon).
The staff are all local (their knowledge of the area and wry Yorkshire humour made this immediately plain), and it's the sort of place you could happily book for a week without ever getting itchy feet.
Essentials
Rachel Everett was a guest of Saltmoore (01947 661 661), which has doubles from £300 per night, at both Saltmoore House and The Beach House, including breakfast. In late 2025, seven two- and three-bed lodges will also be opening.
