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Yahoo
4 days ago
- Yahoo
9 Rome restaurants locals swear by
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). In Rome, where every other restaurant promises a 'true' carbonara or 'classic' pizza, the pursuit of authenticity can feel elusive. Travellers often stay within the confines of the historical centre and rely on the greatest hits served in well-worn trattorias offering English-language menus. But do as the locals do and seek out culinary quality in Rome's quieter corners and you'll really get a flavour of the city. From contemporary trattorias to wine kiosks, here are nine of the best places to eat in Rome — trusted spots that locals return to time after time. Best for: classic dishes with modern flairSince opening in 2017, Santo Palato has carved out a reputation as one of the capital's most exciting trattorias — a place where Roman classics are revered alongside inventive dishes. In March, it changed location from a small venue in San Giovanni to a larger space in Porta Metronia, unveiling a sharper, more design-forward look with bright orange surfaces, sleek pendant lighting and a glass-walled kitchen. But despite the contemporary look, the spirit of the place remains the same. Wood chairs and comfy tables lend it a cosy, old-school feel, while the menu leans heavily on the Roman canon. Start with one of the best iterations of trippa alla romana in town — Rome-style tripe braised in a rich tomato sauce with pecorino — and don't miss the decadent house carbonara. The daily specials are always worth a glance, too, with dishes such as chitarra pasta with a duck ragu and fried veal brain with a punchy mullet-liver mayo. Best for: small platesTucked down a quiet backstreet in Trastevere, this small enoteca (wine bar) offers a low-lit, intimate setting behind hefty double doors marked with large letters 'VI' and 'NO'— 'vino'. Inside, just 16 guests get to try plenty of it, sitting at bar-height tables or at the counter, while a carefully curated collection of vinyl plays out softly. The restaurant's loyal regulars pop in to greet the young chef Mirko Pelosi at the bar before settling in for dinner. Pelosi's experiences in Europe's top Michelin-starred and avant-garde restaurants have been translated into a menu of inventive small plates and a natural-leaning wine list. While the dishes have a clear grounding in Italian cuisine, they do stray beyond its confines. A Japanese-inspired raw tuna dish, for example, sees sashimi slices draped over a vignerola — a Roman spring veggie stew — while a lamb ragu is accompanied by thick Middle Eastern grilled pitas. And don't miss the smoked bottarga (cured fish roe), which is sliced and topped with pickled raw almonds. Best for: cool ambianceFor many, Rome conjures images of rustic trattorias rather than the minimalist venues tipped for Michelin stars. But the latter is exactly the offering at this spot next to the Pantheon. Expect moody corridors and spotlit chefs working behind red, semi-translucent curtains in what is one of the city's most exciting kitchens. Here, the menu combines a few mainstays — including the oxtail terrine or green spaghetti — with additional specials taking in the likes of eel and black garlic risotto and a glorious artichoke katsu sando. With a list of more than 90 wines, all available by the glass and mostly Italian, but with a handful of international picks, the restaurant is a real draw for discerning drinkers. For a more relaxed setting, head to Retrovino, the venue's wine bar, tucked out the back. Sit at the counter or linger streetside, glass in hand — with dishes from the main restaurant also available to order there, too. Best for: a casual drinkLocated next to a faded funfair, Fischio is a kiosk-style bar popular for its laid-back atmosphere. Part pavement hangout, part neighbourhood secret, it serves some of the best coffee in the city, thanks in part to its recent hire: the star barista from nearby LOVE, a bakery renowned city-wide for its coffee and pastries. Come late afternoon, the mood at Fischio shifts to a la dolce vita vibe. With a tight, well thought-through wine list and a front-row view of local life drifting past, it's an ideal spot for a glass of sparkling natural wine and a bit of people-watching as the Roman evening sets in. Best for: slices of pizzaThere's no shortage of tourists lining up for pizza by the slice in Rome — and luckily, the city has more than enough quality spots to go round. Skip the queues at the famous Forno Roscioli, and head instead to Circo Massimo to try Fratelli Trecca's thinner, crispier, but equally satisfying slices, with standouts including the rossa con l'erbetta (marinara with parsley sauce) or the cipolle e cipolle, a white base topped with two types of thinly sliced onions, roasted until just shy of caramelised. Come the lunch or dinner rush, the menu expands to include classic Italian charcuterie toppings or other pizza specials like beef tongue with salsa verde or the rustic coppa di testa (pig's head brawn) with chicory. At €2.50 (£2) a slice, it's an affordable, flavour-packed bite that pairs nicely with a pint of the Puglian beer, Raffo, that's served on tap or a glass of natural wine. Best for: outdoor seatingOnce a humble, working-class neighbourhood, Pigneto has become the go-to for weekend drinks among young Romans seeking a break from the hurly-burly of more established areas like Trastevere. At its heart is Necci, a laid-back bar-cafe that's ideal for an al fresco aperitivo. In its gravel-strewn garden with walls draped in jasmine, Necci serves a solid wine list, house cocktails and a menu that blends Italian staples like bucatini all'amatriciana (a simple pork and tomato pasta dish) with international comfort food like chicken schnitzel and forest berry cheesecakes. On sunny Sundays, it's a welcome refuge for a slow brunch — cappuccinos sipped beneath its mature trees are paired with cornetti pastries oozing with apricot jam or pear and chocolate chip almond cakes. Best for: local cheeseJust at the entrance to the Jewish Quarter, this shrine to cheese is home to just few small tables facing a long glass counter stacked high with produce. There are golden shards of Parmigiano Reggiano, wheels of Alpine tommes and lesser-known regional treats including blu dolce di capra — a blue goat's cheese with a sweet creaminess and a tangy bite. Browse from a shelved wall of wine, with plenty of low-intervention varieties and ask the staff to put an accompanying cheeseboard together for you. Simply tell them how much cheese you're after — 200g, 300g or more — and they'll build a board with different options to suit your tastes, and your chosen wine. If looking for a souvenir to take home, a wedge of their well-aged pecorino Romano is the perfect choice. Best for: food market haulJust a few blocks north of the Vatican, at the city's largest and most exciting food market you'll find locals doing their shopping, rather than tourists seeking a photo op. This deeply Roman neighbourhood bazaar has stalls that generally sell ingredients rather than snacks — everything from neatly packaged handmade ravioli and tubs of fresh ricotta to ropes of plaited garlic strung above parades of picky shoppers. One exception would be Il Pescatorio, an unassuming seafood stall by the Via Andrea Doria exit, where you can settle at a bar stool and pick from paper plates piled high with zingy octopus salads, swordfish parmigiana di melanzane and tuna sashimi. Look out for the maretozzos, Il Pescatorio's seafood spin on Rome's famous whipped cream-filled bun maritozzo. Best for: gelato and coffeeOtaleg has long been celebrated for its wildly inventive gelato — the kind that blends seasonal ingredients with a mad genius chef's precision. While most come for a scoop, Otaleg's secret is behind the coffee counter. At the Monteverde branch, award-winning barista Gianni Olimpo — crowned Italy's best in 2022 and 2023 — serves deeply aromatic brews made with meticulously sourced beans. Whether it's a pour-over, Chemex or a textbook espresso, every cup is crafted with care. Pair the perfectly foamed cappuccino with a decadent zabaione-filled cornetto for a morning ritual that rivals any in the city. This Relais & Châteaux hotel, a few steps away from Piazza del Popolo, is housed in a renovated 17th-century building that was once an educational facility for orphaned girls. Rooms are decorated in colourful velvets and contemporary Italian furniture, while the hotel's public spaces carry modern artworks by the likes of Andy Warhol and sculptor Arnaldo Pomodoro. But the food offerings are the showstopper. The breakfast spread includes generous charcuterie — soft morsels of mortadella and indulgently fatty prosciutto — alongside a pastry table piled with Italian staples such as cream-filled maritozzi. San Baylon, the hotel's fine dining restaurant, helmed by chef Christian Spalvieri and featured in the Michelin Guide, offers a refined take on Italian cuisine with a focus on produce — including olive oil pressed from Palazzo Ripetta's own groves in the volcanic Alban Hills southeast of Rome. There's also the chance to dine in the hotel's lush garden piazzetta and enjoy an aperitivo with a view over Rome's homes and domes at the rooftop bar, Etere. Double rooms from €550 (£463) B&B. To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
National Geographic
4 days ago
- National Geographic
Where to eat in Rome like a local
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). In Rome, where every other restaurant promises a 'true' carbonara or 'classic' pizza, the pursuit of authenticity can feel elusive. Travellers often stay within the confines of the historical centre and rely on the greatest hits served in well-worn trattorias offering English-language menus. But do as the locals do and seek out culinary quality in Rome's quieter corners and you'll really get a flavour of the city. From contemporary trattorias to wine kiosks, here are nine of the best places to eat in Rome — trusted spots that locals return to time after time. Duck ragù clings to strands of chitarra pasta in this deeply flavourful primo at Santo Palato. Photograph by Berkok Yüksel Santo Palato's tiramisu comes unapologetically tall, with generous layers of rich cream. Photograph by Berkok Yüksel Santo Palato Best for: classic dishes with modern flair Since opening in 2017, Santo Palato has carved out a reputation as one of the capital's most exciting trattorias — a place where Roman classics are revered alongside inventive dishes. In March, it changed location from a small venue in San Giovanni to a larger space in Porta Metronia, unveiling a sharper, more design-forward look with bright orange surfaces, sleek pendant lighting and a glass-walled kitchen. But despite the contemporary look, the spirit of the place remains the same. Wood chairs and comfy tables lend it a cosy, old-school feel, while the menu leans heavily on the Roman canon. Start with one of the best iterations of trippa alla romana in town — Rome-style tripe braised in a rich tomato sauce with pecorino — and don't miss the decadent house carbonara. The daily specials are always worth a glance, too, with dishes such as chitarra pasta with a duck ragu and fried veal brain with a punchy mullet-liver mayo. A standout plate at L'Antidoto: white asparagus with black mulberries, olives and a fermented asparagus sauce. Photograph by Simone Proietti Marcellini At L'Antidoto, chef Mirko Pelosi runs the kitchen solo, crafting inventive small plates with precision and flair. Photograph by Simone Proietti Marcellini Enoteca L'Antidoto Best for: small plates Tucked down a quiet backstreet in Trastevere, this small enoteca (wine bar) offers a low-lit, intimate setting behind hefty double doors marked with large letters 'VI' and 'NO'— 'vino'. Inside, just 16 guests get to try plenty of it, sitting at bar-height tables or at the counter, while a carefully curated collection of vinyl plays out softly. The restaurant's loyal regulars pop in to greet the young chef Mirko Pelosi at the bar before settling in for dinner. Pelosi's experiences in Europe's top Michelin-starred and avant-garde restaurants have been translated into a menu of inventive small plates and a natural-leaning wine list. While the dishes have a clear grounding in Italian cuisine, they do stray beyond its confines. A Japanese-inspired raw tuna dish, for example, sees sashimi slices draped over a vignerola — a Roman spring veggie stew — while a lamb ragu is accompanied by thick Middle Eastern grilled pitas. And don't miss the smoked bottarga (cured fish roe), which is sliced and topped with pickled raw almonds. At Retrobottega, signature plates like wild garlic spaghetti sit alongside seasonal indulgences like the artichoke katsu sando. Photographs by Berkok Yüksel Retrobottega Best for: cool ambiance For many, Rome conjures images of rustic trattorias rather than the minimalist venues tipped for Michelin stars. But the latter is exactly the offering at this spot next to the Pantheon. Expect moody corridors and spotlit chefs working behind red, semi-translucent curtains in what is one of the city's most exciting kitchens. Here, the menu combines a few mainstays — including the oxtail terrine or green spaghetti — with additional specials taking in the likes of eel and black garlic risotto and a glorious artichoke katsu sando. With a list of more than 90 wines, all available by the glass and mostly Italian, but with a handful of international picks, the restaurant is a real draw for discerning drinkers. For a more relaxed setting, head to Retrovino, the venue's wine bar, tucked out the back. Sit at the counter or linger streetside, glass in hand — with dishes from the main restaurant also available to order there, too. At Fischio, the crowd often spills beyond the tables — locals linger around the kiosk with a glass in hand as evening sets in. Fischio Best for: a casual drink Located next to a faded funfair, Fischio is a kiosk-style bar popular for its laid-back atmosphere. Part pavement hangout, part neighbourhood secret, it serves some of the best coffee in the city, thanks in part to its recent hire: the star barista from nearby LOVE, a bakery renowned city-wide for its coffee and pastries. Come late afternoon, the mood at Fischio shifts to a la dolce vita vibe. With a tight, well thought-through wine list and a front-row view of local life drifting past, it's an ideal spot for a glass of sparkling natural wine and a bit of people-watching as the Roman evening sets in. Fratelli Trecca Best for: slices of pizza There's no shortage of tourists lining up for pizza by the slice in Rome — and luckily, the city has more than enough quality spots to go round. Skip the queues at the famous Forno Roscioli, and head instead to Circo Massimo to try Fratelli Trecca's thinner, crispier, but equally satisfying slices, with standouts including the rossa con l'erbetta (marinara with parsley sauce) or the cipolle e cipolle, a white base topped with two types of thinly sliced onions, roasted until just shy of caramelised. Come the lunch or dinner rush, the menu expands to include classic Italian charcuterie toppings or other pizza specials like beef tongue with salsa verde or the rustic coppa di testa (pig's head brawn) with chicory. At €2.50 (£2) a slice, it's an affordable, flavour-packed bite that pairs nicely with a pint of the Puglian beer, Raffo, that's served on tap or a glass of natural wine. Necci dal 1924 Best for: outdoor seating Once a humble, working-class neighbourhood, Pigneto has become the go-to for weekend drinks among young Romans seeking a break from the hurly-burly of more established areas like Trastevere. At its heart is Necci, a laid-back bar-cafe that's ideal for an al fresco aperitivo. In its gravel-strewn garden with walls draped in jasmine, Necci serves a solid wine list, house cocktails and a menu that blends Italian staples like bucatini all'amatriciana (a simple pork and tomato pasta dish) with international comfort food like chicken schnitzel and forest berry cheesecakes. On sunny Sundays, it's a welcome refuge for a slow brunch — cappuccinos sipped beneath its mature trees are paired with cornetti pastries oozing with apricot jam or pear and chocolate chip almond cakes. At Beppe e i suoi formaggi, cheeseboards are built to order from a counter stacked with raw-milk wheels and Alpine specialities. Photograph by Andrea Di Lorenzo Beppe e i suoi formaggi Best for: local cheese Just at the entrance to the Jewish Quarter, this shrine to cheese is home to just few small tables facing a long glass counter stacked high with produce. There are golden shards of Parmigiano Reggiano, wheels of Alpine tommes and lesser-known regional treats including blu dolce di capra — a blue goat's cheese with a sweet creaminess and a tangy bite. Browse from a shelved wall of wine, with plenty of low-intervention varieties and ask the staff to put an accompanying cheeseboard together for you. Simply tell them how much cheese you're after — 200g, 300g or more — and they'll build a board with different options to suit your tastes, and your chosen wine. If looking for a souvenir to take home, a wedge of their well-aged pecorino Romano is the perfect choice. Mercato Trionfale Best for: food market haul Just a few blocks north of the Vatican, at the city's largest and most exciting food market you'll find locals doing their shopping, rather than tourists seeking a photo op. This deeply Roman neighbourhood bazaar has stalls that generally sell ingredients rather than snacks — everything from neatly packaged handmade ravioli and tubs of fresh ricotta to ropes of plaited garlic strung above parades of picky shoppers. One exception would be Il Pescatorio, an unassuming seafood stall by the Via Andrea Doria exit, where you can settle at a bar stool and pick from paper plates piled high with zingy octopus salads, swordfish parmigiana di melanzane and tuna sashimi. Look out for the maretozzos, Il Pescatorio's seafood spin on Rome's famous whipped cream-filled bun maritozzo. Since 2012, Marco Radicioni's Otaleg has redefined Roman gelato with unexpected, chef-driven flavours. Otaleg Best for: gelato and coffee Otaleg has long been celebrated for its wildly inventive gelato — the kind that blends seasonal ingredients with a mad genius chef's precision. While most come for a scoop, Otaleg's secret is behind the coffee counter. At the Monteverde branch, award-winning barista Gianni Olimpo — crowned Italy's best in 2022 and 2023 — serves deeply aromatic brews made with meticulously sourced beans. Whether it's a pour-over, Chemex or a textbook espresso, every cup is crafted with care. Pair the perfectly foamed cappuccino with a decadent zabaione-filled cornetto for a morning ritual that rivals any in the city. The courtyard at Palazzo Ripetta offers a tranquil setting for aperitivi and all-day dining beneath the Roman sky. Photograph by Palazzo Ripetta Where to stay: Palazzo Ripetta This Relais & Châteaux hotel, a few steps away from Piazza del Popolo, is housed in a renovated 17th-century building that was once an educational facility for orphaned girls. Rooms are decorated in colourful velvets and contemporary Italian furniture, while the hotel's public spaces carry modern artworks by the likes of Andy Warhol and sculptor Arnaldo Pomodoro. But the food offerings are the showstopper. The breakfast spread includes generous charcuterie — soft morsels of mortadella and indulgently fatty prosciutto — alongside a pastry table piled with Italian staples such as cream-filled maritozzi. San Baylon, the hotel's fine dining restaurant, helmed by chef Christian Spalvieri and featured in the Michelin Guide, offers a refined take on Italian cuisine with a focus on produce — including olive oil pressed from Palazzo Ripetta's own groves in the volcanic Alban Hills southeast of Rome. There's also the chance to dine in the hotel's lush garden piazzetta and enjoy an aperitivo with a view over Rome's homes and domes at the rooftop bar, Etere. Double rooms from €550 (£463) B&B. To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
Telegraph
22-04-2025
- Entertainment
- Telegraph
The 39 best restaurants in Rome
Romans take their food and wine seriously, and you will never be stuck for somewhere to enjoy a good meal in the city. Aside from the ubiquitous takeaway pizza and tramezzini (sandwiches), snack culture is a more recent phenomenon – but it has been spurred on by the recession, and there are now places where you can grab a decent stand-up or carry-out meal for €10 (£8.80). And then, of course, there are the classics, from cacio e pepe to involtini di manzo al sugo (rolled beef in tomato sauce). When you are planning ahead just remember: Romans rarely turn up for dinner before 8pm. Read on for our experts' pick of the best places to eat right around the city. Find out more below, or for further Rome planning inspiration, check out our guides to the city's hotels, nightlife, shopping, attractions and free things to do, plus how to spend a weekend there. Find a restaurant by type: Best all-rounders Best for cheap eats Best for families Best for walk ins Best for fine dining Best for innovation Best all-rounders Santo Palato With the soul of a traditional Roman trattoria leavened by a touch of hipster flair, this casual eatery is popular both among the city's epicurean crowd and those who simply love its straightforward Roman classics taken to the next level. Headed by chef Sara Cicolini, one of the city's most promising rising stars, the restaurant honours Rome's storied 'quinto quarto' cuisine with an offal-heavy menu; those who are not fans of innards will be more than pleased with perfectly turned out blockbusters such as carbonara and amatriciana. The small wine list includes an interesting choice of natural wines and artisanal beers. Armando al Pantheon This friendly and delicious family-run trattoria is within shouting distance of the Pantheon. Its single room has been sympathetically modernised, keeping original details such as the stained-glass vestibule. Roman classics like spaghetti alla carbonara or juicy sweetbreads rub alongside lighter fare (in spring and summer, don't miss the asparagus tagliolini). Unusually for a Roman trattoria, they also have several vegetarian and gluten-free options. The wine list is another revelation, offering a serious panorama of some of Italy's best small- and medium-scale producers, and the mark-ups are reasonable. Da Francesco In a picturesque cobbled lane not far from Piazza Navona, this elbow-to-elbow trattoria/pizzeria is an institution worth a visit for the atmosphere alone. It's always full and always loud, especially in summer, when tables spill out onto the pavement. Food is traditional: decent pasta dishes like spaghetti alla carbonara, thin-crust pizza every which way, the usual Roman meaty mains. In 2010, they added a chic upstairs space, with a more refined menu; tables here can and should be booked. Downstairs is also bookable in theory but they have a habit of giving tables away, so try to turn up before 8pm. Area/neighbourhood: North Centro Contact: Prices: ££ Reservations: Essential Da Gino al Parlamento (also known as Dal Cavalier Gino) A rock amid the shifting sands of the Roman dining scene, the venerable trattoria of Luigi del Grosso, aka Gino, opened in 1963 in this little alley by the parliament and little has changed since then. It's got the same kitsch murals, the same reliable versions of Roman classics like tonnarelli cacio e pepe (pasta strands with tangy, melting sheep's cheese and black pepper), involtini alla romana (veal rolls wrapped up with sage) and, of course, trippa (tripe). The clientele is more upscale than the rustic ambience would suggest, with plenty of politicians and lobbyists at lunchtime. Area/neighbourhood: North Centro Contact: Prices: ££ Reservations: Recommended La Campana The oldest restaurant in the capital, with more than 500 years under its belt. La Campana is the kind of smart Sunday-best place your Roman grandmother might take you. With its staid but timeless trattoria décor and reliable, old-fashioned service, 'The Bell' is a great place to sample refined versions of ultra-traditional Roman dishes such as coda alla vacinara (braised oxtail) and carciofi alla giudia (crispy, deep-fried artichokes). Their tiramisù is legendary. In season, don't miss the vignarola, a traditional Roman spring vegetable stew. Reservations are essential for Sunday lunch. Area/neighbourhood: North Centro Address: Vicolo della Campana 18 Contact: 00 39 06 686 7820 Prices: ££ Reservations: Recommended Matricianella A traditional trattoria close to chic piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina, with informal checked-tablecloth ambience but better than usual food and service, Matricianella is the place to try carciofi alla giudia – whole artichokes, deep-fried Roman-Jewish style. Follow with traditional Roman staples like spaghetti all'amatriciana and the excellent saltimbocca (veal rolled up with prosciutto and sage). Featuring around 600 labels, the wine list is a cut above the usual trattoria standard. Reservations recommended for dinner, not necessary for lunch. Tables spill onto the pavement in the summer. Cesare al Pellegrino Romans mourned the closure of Settimio al Pellegrino in 2022, a beloved landmark trattoria near Campo de' Fiori. Luckily, its doors have been opened once again by the husband-and-wife team Leonardo Vignoli and Maria Pia Cicconi behind Cesare al Casaletto, another go-to for lovers of old-school Roman cuisine. Buzz the doorbell to enter and tuck into a revived version of the eatery's iconic meatballs, plus no-nonsense classics like baccalà alla romana (Roman-style cod) and spaghetti tossed with the leftover sauce from the involtini, just like any frugal nonna romana would serve. La Pace del Palato Renato and Francesco Pesce embody both two different generations and the eternal struggle of Rome itself to strike a delicate balance between tradition and innovation. The city sometimes misses the mark, but the Pesce father-and-son team can do no wrong according to their devoted fans that come from across the city (and across Italy) to sigh in delight over fresh pasta stuffed with taleggio and speck, chicken souffle, and zucchini and truffle flan. The disarmingly friendly atmosphere and carefully curated wine list are just the cherry on the Roman torta. Roscioli As Rome's ultimate deli restaurant, Roscioli is all about top notch ingredients. A display case laden with exquisite Italian and foreign delicacies dominates the entrance. It's not just for show: outside of meal times, Roscioli is a shop, and many of the specialities served here can be bought to take away. Simple combinations abound, such as a perfect starter of mozzarella with Cantabrian anchovies, or a classic spaghetti all'amatriciana made with artisanal bacon and pecorino romano cheese. Tables are close together in the brick and bottle-lined interior, and the atmosphere is serious foodie concentration rather than romantic dalliance. The wine list is superb. Da Cesare al Casaletto Take tram 8 to the end of the line to visit this in-the-know trattoria which has been garnering rave reviews since it was turned around by current owner Leonardo Vignoli. Inside is trattoria trad – echoey and brightly lit – but you can book a table on the pretty terrace instead. Try the signature polpette di bollito (meat croquettes in basil sauce), and classics such as abbacchio a scottadito (grilled lamb chops). Food is excellent and good value, and the wine list has some stellar bottles at reasonable mark-ups. There are fish dishes too, and off-menu daily specials rarely disappoint. Da Felice The heirs of old-school neighbourhood restaurateur Felice have turned this place into one of Rome's most buzzy trattorias. The exposed-brick décor may be new but the food is still downhome romano, centred on classics like spaghetti all'amatriciana or involtini di manzo al sugo (rolled beef in tomato sauce) and some daily-changing specials. Veggies will be pretty much limited to the tonnarelli cacio e pepe (pasta strands with sheep's cheese and black pepper), but it's no sacrifice - they're among the best in town. Service is brisk but professional, and the wine list surprisingly extensive for a family-run trattoria. L'Arcangelo This Prati restaurant, with its retro wood-panelled décor, was one of the first in Rome to take the fresh-and-local trattoria formula and give it a Cordon Bleu twist. To sample what they do best, order the rigatoni alla carbonara – a classic Roman trattoria dish, given wings by the quality of the ingredients and the perfection of the technique. At the end of the meal they offer free, homemade Vov – a zabaglione liqueur – with sweet biscuits for dipping. Well spaced tables and unobtrusive service make this a pleasant spot for a romantic tête-à-tête. Del Frate This attractive urban-chic wine bar near the Vatican has been in the Del Frate family for almost a century, and is a great spot to recover energies after a visit to the Sistine Chapel. Little cherrywood tables laid out between exposed brick walls and towering wine racks make it more suited to a tête-à-tête than a big group. The menu is lighter than the Roman norm, split between cold deli plates like beef tartare with ginger, and four or five daily hot primi and secondi. The wine list is spectacular, including a good by-the-glass selection. Back to index Best for cheap eats Romanè Chef Stefano Callegari has been a pillar of the Roman dining scene for decades, best known for his innovative pizzas and invention of the 'Trapizzino', a now ubiquitous Roman street food. In 2021, he opened his first trattoria in the Trionfale district just north of the Vatican to champion timeless Roman specialties from artichokes to offal. Diners are treated to faithful versions of carbonara and amatriciana, meatballs stewed in tomato sauce, and chicken alla cacciatora, plus get a souvenir hand-painted ceramic dish to take home (only included with some menù items). Area/neighbourhood: Trionfale Contact: Prices: £ Reservations: Recommended Passaguai After a visit to the Vatican head for Passaguai and its nearby sister wine bar Sorpasso. Both are Prati guarantees for a light meal at a good price, and are open throughout the day. Both locations offer a bit of everything, from salads and cold cuts to pasta dishes, risottos, steaks and yummy desserts. Passaguai's interior is a cosy cellar: windowless, but warm in winter and cool in summer, and there are pavement tables outside. Area/neighbourhood: Prati Contact: Prices: £ Reservations: Recommended Bar della Pace After being closed for almost a decade, the historic Bar della Pace near Piazza Navona has reopened following extensive renovations. An iconic Roman bar for centuries – once frequented by artists, writers, and the international jet set – has been returned to its former glory. The interiors maintain that Old-World flair but are lighter and brighter with dramatic archways, marble columns and restored patterned floors. The new all-day menu has something for everyone, from morning coffee to a light lunch of salad or pinsa pizzas all the way to hearty dinner fare with classic Roman pastas or meat dishes. The tables outside allow for prime centro-storico people watching. Area/neighbourhood: North Centro Contact: Prices: £ Reservations: Recommended Bonci Rome's best takeaway pizza is served up at this tiny outlet (with no seating) not far from the entrance to the Vatican Museums. Bear-like dough maestro Gabriele Bonci has been called 'the Michelangelo of pizza', and his slow-rise product – made from specially selected organic flours – ranges from tried-and-tested classics like margherita (tomato and mozzarella) to Bonci creations like ricotta, black pepper and courgettes, or vignarola (his pizza version of a Roman spring soup). Avoid the peak lunchtime rush by arriving early or late. If you're planning a picnic, pick up some of Bonci's delicious bread. Area/neighbourhood: Prati Contact: Prices: £ Reservations: Walk-ins only Fatamorgana With flavours like wasabi, black forest gateau and chocolate infused with lapsang souchong, this mini-chain is one of the city's more creative ice cream emporiums. But it's also militantly natural and organic. Owner Maria Agnese Spagnuolo uses no additives or artificial colouring agents, and her ice cream is rigorously gluten-free. Flavours change according to seasonal availability. In late summer and autumn, don't miss the uva fragola e zenzero (strawberry grape and ginger). Other central branches are on Piazza dei Zingari in Monti, Via Laurina (off Via del Corso) and Via dei Chiavari in the centro storico. Back to index Best for families Gelateria del Teatro Once the main pilgrim route to the Vatican, Via dei Coronari now leads into gelato temptation. Eternal salvation is no match for Stefano Marcotulli's inventive flavours including sage and raspberry, ricotta, almond and fig, and 'vecchia Roma' (a gelato version of Roman-Jewish ricotta and wild cherry pie). All ingredients are natural, flavours vary with the seasons, and all the ice cream is made from scratch on-site. There's a second branch at Lungotevere dei Vallati 25, not far from the Ponte Sisto pedestrian bridge. The owners run Cucina del Teatro next door, a relaxed pizza and pasta takeaway. Pizzeria Remo To see a Roman pizzeria at its most enjoyably lively, head for the down-to-earth Testaccio district. Remo serves up good Roman-style flat pizzas on a corner overlooking a small park, with all the classic toppings, to a loud and appreciative audience. Beer, water or soft drinks are the liquids of choice; they do also have wine, but it's pretty rough. To secure one of the few coveted outside tables you'll need to come early, or wait your turn, as they don't take bookings. Service is brisk – this isn't the place to linger over a romantic supper. Area/neighbourhood: Testaccio Contact: 00 39 06 574 6270 Prices: £ Reservations: Walk-ins only Neve di Latte Right behind Zaha Hadid's angular MAXXI is a less showy masterpiece. This 'Slow Food' style gelateria does a few fancy flavours (like barrel-aged balsamic vinegar – unmissable), but is more focused on perfecting classics like chocolate or hazelnut. Few ice cream makers use such maniacally sourced ingredients; we're talking Bavarian biodynamic milk, eggs from free-range Tuscan hens fed partly on goat milk, and four different varieties of organic brown sugar for starters. The shop's spacious interior is pared back, with stools for perching (all the better to focus on the ice cream). Area/neighbourhood: Flaminio Contact: Prices: £ Reservations: Walk-ins only Torcè Claudio Torcè's divine ice creams are among the best in Rome. There are eight different chocolate flavours alone, plus savoury forays like gorgonzola. The Torcè HQ is in the suburb of EUR, just a three-minute walk from the Laurentina stop at the end of the B line. However their tiny Viale Aventino shop is more central – just a five-minute walk from the Via di San Gregorio entrance of the Forum and Palatine hill, and eight minutes from the Colosseum. But rest assured: all the ices come direct from the Torcè mothership. La Pratolina This buzzing, loud and cheerful evening-only pizzeria is just the thing after a long day at the Vatican. Their oval pinsa apparently derives from an ancient Roman style of focaccia. It's not just the special flour mix, the slow, temperature-controlled dough rising time and the lavastone, wood-fired oven that this heritage pizza stand out from the crowd. It's the toppings as well – like the mozzarella, pesto, Pachino tomatoes and Parma ham that adorn the Genovese. There are some good wines and beers on the list, plus a few decent salads if you're not in a doughy mood. Back to index Best for walk ins Antica Birreria Peroni Roll out the barrel at this vintage Roman-style bierkeller a stone's throw from the Trevi fountain. Crowds of appreciative locals and tourists pack in to dine on filling carb and meat fare, washed down with draught Peroni. The food, served by hale and hefty waiters, consists of three or four daily-changing pasta dishes, plus sausages, steaks, goulash, grilled scamorza cheese and a few salads. The place stays open all afternoon – handy if you need to eat between 3pm and 7pm when it's hard to find a decent sit-down meal in Rome. Enoteca Corsi In the morning and afternoon it's an old-fashioned wine shop, but come lunchtime (and on Thursday and Friday evenings) this bottiglieria, brilliantly placed halfway between Piazza Venezia and the Pantheon, morphs into a packed local trattoria. In a warren of barrel-vaulted rooms, hungry office workers, tourists, local aristocrats and Vatican apparatchiks tuck into dishes like pasta e ceci (a warming soup of pasta and chickpeas) or pollo alla diavola (grilled spicy chicken), washed down with the house white or red (the red's better). Should you need something a little more serious, there are more than 300 wines by the bottle. Forno Conti & Co. Rome's gritty, multi-cultural Esquilino is quickly becoming the city's hottest spot for dining and imbibing, and the chic, Nordic-inspired Forno Conti & Co. artisanal bakery is riding the culinary wave. Shelves are stocked each morning with fresh breads, croissants and other simple pastries to enjoy with espresso made from locally roasted Faro-brand coffee, or patrons can dig into something more filling like buns (with butter and jam or cheese and prosciutto) or a soft-boiled egg. Come lunchtime, an array of quiches, baguette sandwiches and savory pies appear, alongside a selection of organic sodas and juices and natural wines. Area/neighbourhood: Esquilino Contact: Prices: £ Reservations: Not necessary Nunu Rome's international food scene made huge leaps forward during the past few decades, and the city has moved past tired pan-Asian eateries and opened a wave of modern yet authentic regional restaurants of late. This sun-washed Vietnamese bistro just steps from the bustling Termini train station is a perfect example, serving up light and flavorful goi cuon, pho, lao thap cam and other crowd-pleasers for lunch and dinner. End your meal right with a ca phe da iced coffee laced with sweetened condensed milk. Supplizio Deep-fried rice balls are a staple of Italian street food from Rome all the way south to Sicily. Rome's twist on this satisfying specialty is called a 'supplì', and it's one of the most ubiquitous and authentic street foods in the capital. Oval-shaped and breaded, classic 'supplì' feature rice mixed with a bit of tomato sauce and ground beef or pork packed around a central chunk of mozzarella, which melts as the whole thing is deep-fried. The best 'supplì' in town are found at Supplizio, a tiny corner fry shop just a few blocks from the Tiber River in the heart of the 'centro storico'. In addition to classic 'supplì', you can try updated—but still quintessentially Roman—flavors like 'cacio e pepe', 'amatriciana', and 'carbonara'. There are a few tables and bar seating, or you can take your piping-hot treasure to go. Area/neighbourhood: South Centro Contact: Prices: £ Reservations: Walk-ins only Back to index Best for fine dining Il Pagliaccio Anthony Genovese is a strong contender for Rome's most talented chef. A major plus point of the serenely welcoming restaurant he presides over is that it's in the heart of the Centro Storico and not attached to a hotel. Genovese has worked in the Far East and on the Amalfi Coast, and there are influences of both in his playful but technically impeccable cuisine. Tortelli filled with anchovies and broad beans arrive on the table – three jaunty little boats on a foamy green sea. To eat here at a (relative) discount, come at lunch, when there's a €75 tasting menu. Per Me – Giulio Terrinoni Giulio Terrinoni's den just off Via Giulia wears its Michelin star lightly. In an intimate, warmly minimalist space behind a lovely ivy-draped exterior, Terrinoni's market-fresh Italian cuisine is more about flavour than showmanship. Service is affable yet attentive, the wine list excellent. And this is one of the few restaurants in this league with a real eye on value – especially at lunchtime, when for €44 (£39) a head you can graze on a selection of five snack-sized tappi, such as roast octopus with lime and raspberry, or an oyster with red onion sorbet. In summer, book one of the three cute little tables for two in the ivy-covered lane outside. Satiro Vino e Cucina Traditional Roman fare is so heavy on meat (and offal) that it's easy to forget that Italy's capital city sits less than half an hour from the Tyrrenhian coastline. This Monti eatery is a reminder of the proximity of the sea's bounty, with creative fish and seafood dishes that channel classic go-tos and culinary trends. Octopus putanesca and cacio e pepe with tuna look to the past while kataifi-encrusted shrimp and a fish tartare of the day keep the menu fresh and contemporary. The ample wine list highlights Italian producers and includes options by the bottle or by the glass. Area/neighbourhood: South Centro Contact: Prices: ££ Reservations: Recommended All'Oro Riccardo Di Giacinto and his wife Ramona's Michelin-starrred restaurant occupies an Art Nouveau villa just a five-minute walk from Piazza del Popolo. The interior has a nightclubby aesthetic, while for fine weather there is an airy veranda. Di Giacinto is a master of culinary camouflage, favouring inventive tweaks to Roman tradition – a signature dish is coda alla vaccinara (oxtail) disguised as Ferrero Rocher. Tasting menus (one vegan) offer substantial savings on à la carte prices; newcomers are advised to try the All'Origine menu, a compilation of the chef's 'greatest hits'. Upstairs, 14-room H'All is a fresh design hotel. Area/neighbourhood: Flaminio Contact: Prices: £££ Reservations: Recommended Glass Hostaria It's not easy to find a good place to eat in Trastevere so hats off to Cristina Bowerman's Michelin-starred culinary fiefdom, which strikes a blow for quality and research in an area dominated by tourist trattorias. In this aggressively modern reign of glass and steel, first timers should opt for one of the tasting menus, which showcase Bowerman's fancy but convincing Mediterranean fusion approach. The ravioli stuffed with Parmesan (which has been aged for five years) and served with a sauce of Isigny butter is legendary. Area/neighbourhood: Trastevere Contact: Prices: £££ Reservations: Essential La Pergola Dinner at La Pergola is a must if expense is no object. Rome's only three-starred Michelin establishment pulls out all the stops, and has a spectacular view over the city. Chef Heinz Beck is German but his love of Italian food and work ethic (you'll find him in the kitchen, not on television) have endeared him to local gourmets. He can do theatrical showpieces (as in a mushroom, truffle and foie gras composition he calls 'woodland garden') but is also a master of simplicity. Head sommelier Marco Reitano is an excellent guide to the exhaustive wine list. Antico Arco It's been going for almost 20 years now, but this relaxed, contemporary Italian restaurant on the Gianicolo hill above Trastevere continues to deliver. The interior is warmly minimalist; the very few outside tables – a novelty in the recently pedestrianised piazza – should be booked well ahead. Risotto with Castelmagno cheese in Nebbiolo sauce is an Antico Arco classic; meat, fish and game share the credits, and there are even a few veggie dishes. The sommelier is a great source of inspiration – and the mark-ups on bottles are reasonable. Back to index Best for innovation Il Margutta On a gallery-packed side street just around the corner from Piazza del Popolo, artsy Il Margutta is that rare Roman find: an upscale vegetarian restaurant. The weekday lunchtime 'Green Brunch' has 50-plus dishes ranging from soups to pasta, pizza and mountains of fresh organic vegetables, and is one of the best lunch deals in town. The weekend version is more elaborate (and only a little more expensive). There's live jazz at Sunday brunch and sometimes in the evenings too, when the menu is à la carte, the atmosphere a little more romantico, and prices substantially higher. Ginger This health-oriented diner is a pleasant place to refuel when the pasta and pizza carbs starts to take their toll. Open all day, it has a panoply of interesting salads (rare in Rome), gourmet sandwiches, fruit platters and smoothies, as well as pasta dishes and mains like grilled red prawns or fillet steak with pumpkin and pistacchios. They do breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea, aperitivo and dinner, and though prices for proper meals are on the high side, most of the dishes (including the appetisers) are intended as mains. What's more, the place is vegan-friendly. Area/neighbourhood: North Centro Contact: Prices: ££ Reservations: Not necessary Pulejo Experimental contemporary dining has swept over Italy's capital, with varying levels of success. Many of these Michelin-aspiring restaurants confound diners with their overly fussy—yet often bland—concoctions, but Pulejo stands apart for creative plates that simultaneously surprise and soothe. Chef Davide Puleio earned his stripes at celebrity outposts like Noma in Copenhagen before opening his namesake restaurant near the Vatican in 2022, and diners looking for Michelin heft with the familiar flavors of a corner trattoria have been flocking to his haute-cuisine outpost every since to enjoy traditional Roman animelle (sweetbreads) updated with smoked oyster sauce and chard or tortello pasta stuffed with wild boar, rhubarb and toasted pine nuts. Enoteca L'Antidoto Don't expect to find wines by the glass in this small enoteca in Trastevere serving up a wide array of natural vini along with Brutalist cuisine by Italian chef Mirko Pelosi, fresh off of experiences in a variety of experimental kitchens around Europe. Settle in with a whole bottle of wine and enjoy some of the most cutting-edge dishes being offered up in Rome these days. The menu changes daily based on what's in season. Tuck into marinated mackerel with green olives, cucumber, sesame and onions or smoked pork cheek with curried pickled pumpkin and preserved citrus. As much a foodie mecca as it is a draw for oenophiles. Back to index How we choose Every restaurant in this curated list has been tried and tested by our destination expert, who has visited to provide you with their insider perspective. We cover a range of budgets, from neighbourhood favourites to Michelin-starred restaurants – to best suit every type of traveller's taste – and consider the food, service, best tables, atmosphere and price in our recommendations. We update this list regularly to keep up with the latest opening and provide up to date recommendations. About our expert Rebecca Winke's first visit to Rome was a coup de foudre, and her affection for the Eternal City has only grown over 25 years of living in Italy. She has mastered the art of navigating the city's sampietrini cobblestones in heels but has yet to come away from a plate of bucatini all'amatriciana with an unsullied blouse.
