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The Guardian
11 hours ago
- Entertainment
- The Guardian
Muckle Flugga by Michael Pedersen review – anything can happen on this remote Scottish island
Often thought of as the northernmost point of the British Isles, the Scottish island Muckle Flugga lies on the outer reaches of the Shetland archipelago. Norse legend has it that this craggy and almost uninhabitable place was created by two warring giants, obsessed with the same mermaid. While throwing boulders at each other, one of the rivalrous giants' missiles accidentally plopped into the sea: and so the island was born. A version of this mythic tussle is central to Michael Pedersen's debut novel. When the narrative opens, delivered in a lively present tense sprinkled with Scots, The Father and his 19-year-old son Ouse are the only residents on the island. The Father mans Muckle's lighthouse, and is as volatile as the waves he illuminates. A gossip from a neighbouring island describes him as irascible, with 'a viper in his throat and … a broken soldier's thirst for whisky'. Ouse, meanwhile, is 'a queer sort' 'who sounds as if he's been sooking helium out of party balloons … always staring off into the distance'. He's famed in the area for being an 'artiste', a dab hand at needlework with a reputation for producing beautiful handmade textiles. What unites father and son is that they take their stewardship of the island seriously. They are devoted to the extraordinarily various wildlife – puffins, gannets, sea otters, peacock butterflies – and hypnotised by the thrillingly chimeric weather. Unspoken grief for The Mother, who drowned two years before the story begins, also binds the two together. The Father assumes his only heir will eventually take over the family business. Enter Firth, a foppish twentysomething failed writer from Edinburgh with griefs of his own. Racked with self-loathing, he has vowed to kill himself after fulfilling a promise: to visit the enchanted isle of Muckle Flugga, much loved by his late grandfather. Almost as soon as he arrives, Firth is entranced by Ouse's mercurial demeanour, as he parses landscapes and seascapes alien to Firth's urban eyes. Firth is struck, too, by the blazing potential of Ouse's artistic talent. He wants to whisk him away to the mainland and make him a star. Thus begins the tug of war for Ouse's allegiance: The Father, familiarity and tradition yank one way, but Firth, possibility and the seductive unknown pull just as hard. This perhaps presents the plot as neat and fairly recognisable: a narrative of masculine archetypes vying for one-upmanship, with notes of The Tempest. But Pedersen introduces wild cards – spooky visions of religious zealots, a pumpkin-punching contest – that emphasise the strangeness of this remote place, so far away from the norms of the mainland that anything might be possible. Significant among these zany additions is the ghost of Scottish writer Robert Louis Stevenson. Stevenson – who came from a family of lighthouse engineers – acts as imaginary friend and confidant to Ouse. He counsels Ouse for his maternal loss and guides him through the decision about where his future might lie. Pedersen threads the apparition's dialogue with aphorisms from the real Stevenson's work and correspondence. The novel's most memorable feature, and perhaps most potentially divisive one, is its loudness. The characterisation of the villainous but vulnerable father, of the hapless city type and of the ethereal innocent is bold and broad – sometimes cartoonish. The setting, rich with images of the aurora borealis and storm-lashed shores, is almost psychedelic. But the narrative voice is loudest of all: constantly baroque, with the linguistic and emotional dials turned up high. Firth receives an unexpected letter, and the missive is 'a Pandora's box, a bete noire, a curse, a lifeline, an arch nemesis, a fairy godmother … a gift from the gods'. A flurry of snow after an exchange between the protagonists is 'a divine offering, the impetus for reconciliation under the auspices of a natural phenomenon'. Pedersen is known as a poet, and his wonder at the magic of language is evident in this self-consciously high style. In places, the linguistic busyness occludes the plot's more interesting undertones: the queer desire between Ouse and Firth, considerations about our place in and responsibilities to the natural world. But there is, ultimately, something immensely charming about this novel. It is weird, rambunctious and repeatedly demands the reader surrender to its particular wildness. Its generosity of spirit, its unrestrained warmth and humour – the brilliantly kinetic description of a surprise ceilidh is a case in point – steadily worked away at my scepticism. Like Ouse's flamboyant designs, inspired by the spectacular landscape around him, it is 'garishly alive'. Muckle Flugga by Michael Pedersen is published by Faber (£16.99). To support the Guardian, order your copy at Delivery charges may apply.
The Irish Sun
02-05-2025
- The Irish Sun
I've explored over 100 Scottish islands and these are my top five that rival Skye – one has 14 distilleries
DID you know Scotland boasts over 800 islands? I've been travelling the globe for over two decades and hand on tartan heart, Scotland remains my favourite country and its islands unbeatable. 6 There are so many islands to explore and the best way is by ferry Credit: Robin McKelvie 6 I popped into a distillery in Ardbeg on the isle of Islay Credit: Robin Mckelvie I love Skye gets ridiculously busy with campervans clogging narrow roads and hordes fighting to the bar in Portree's pubs. The good news is that there are other Scottish isles just as beautiful. I've explored over 100 of them and found many rival Skye – I reckon some isles are even more rewarding for a holiday. Read More on Scottish Islands Here are five crackers so that you too can dodge the Skye-bound hordes. Arran – 'Scotland in Miniature' Scotland's seventh largest island reclines a stone's throw from Glasgow. The journey is a joy on the swanky new Glen Sannox ferry. Arran is a stunner – mountains soar in the north, rolling hills and sandy beaches charm in the south. A literal Stonesthrow is the new sauna. I've just returned to Arran and it's brilliant fun steaming away with sea views, then plunging into the water. Most read in Family I also went out with the lovely Zoe from Wild Food Arran, who showed me a forest can be a wild supermarket with free food. The food was great at the Drift Inn, with epic views of Holy Isle. Superb too at the Corrie Hotel, a trendy boutique bolthole run by a couple who swapped Manhattan for Arran. Exploring UK Islands: A Journey Through Beautiful Isles (1) 6 The views on Eigg are unbeatable Credit: Robin Mckelvie 6 Islay is the home of great whiskey - and lots of distilleries Credit: Robin McKelvie After a few days on Arran – the only isle with all of Scotland's 'Big Five' wildlife - you'll see why they chose Arran. Islay – Whisky Galore Skye is a whisky amateur compared to gorgeous Islay, slated to soon celebrate its 14th distillery. My favourites – Ardbeg, Lagavulin and Laphroaig (try spelling those after dramming) – are connected by a walking trail along the rugged wildlife-rich southern coast. Splash out on more expensive tours to discover drams you won't find in the supermarket. They all have lovely bars too. Islay trumps Skye on beaches. Of the necklace of epic sands Machir Bay is my tip for a life-affirming stroll savouring big skies and huge Atlantic breakers. There is of course, a distillery – Kilchoman. E-bikes are a great way to get around and explore Islay's wee whitewashed villages. You'll see why she is hailed the 'Queen of Hebrides'. Eigg – A community-owned oasis Skye's wee southern sister shows what happens when you entrust islanders to run their own affairs. The opposite of Lord of the Flies, the community buy-out in 1997 on Eigg has been a roaring success, bucking the Hebridean trend by significantly growing the population and attracting young families. This real life They even became the world's first island to generate all their own energy from green sources. Even the bikes rented out by Eigg Adventures are run on green electricity. As do the spotless (contactless) showers, part of the impressive new An Laimhrig community centre, which houses a shop selling local venison and a cafe alive with local produce. Eigg is jaw-dropping with volcanoes, craggy coast and sweeping beaches (one even 'sings'). Eigg also cannily steals Skye's most impressive mountains as a dramatic backdrop. My kids love Eigg and I love the different ways of living that it readily shares with them. 6 Barra is the best for hiking and incredible views Credit: Robin McKelvie Barra – the Outer Hebrides in Miniature My favourite archipelago on the planet, a 130-mile chain of spirit-soaring isles that ensures you won't miss Skye just across the Minch. If you only have time for one make it Barra, an Outer Hebridean greatest hits. It's all here, from chunky hills and the sort of beaches you thought only existed in brochures, through to a castle on its own islet (Kisimul) and world-class wildlife. Barra charms with the brilliant Bùth Bharraigh , a community info hub that surges to the heart of Barra and waits for you if the last ferry is late. Come by plane to thrill at the world's only scheduled beach landing. Don't miss the Vatersay Boys – if you're lucky they'll be careering through a chaotic session at the Castlebay – and Café Kisimul's delicious local king scallop pakoras. Sanday – Bountiful beaches and welcoming islanders I could give you a dozen Northern Isles to rival Skye, but we've only space for one. The name gives Orkney's Sanday's community could scarcely be more welcoming. Meet them at the community craft hub and buy art from local creatives. Or maybe meet over a delicious pizza at the UK's most northerly wood-fired pizzeria . Sanday also offers a mysterious broch (an ancient Scottish fortified tower) and prehistoric sites. Hiring a bike is a great way to explore. Kids love poodling around choosing which paradise beach to stop off at next to swim with the seals. 6 You can even go kayaking off the coast of Barra Credit: Robin Mckelvie
