4 days ago
The game changing item that transformed my makeup game forever - but surprisingly most people never use it: POLISHED with Elise Wilson
Welcome to Polished with Elise Wilson, where FEMAIL's qualified makeup artist and hair stylist answers your questions, shares advice and trials the up-and-coming beauty and skincare trends so you don't have to.
If you're anything like me, you've probably stared down the barrel of your makeup bag, clutching your fifth bottle of foundation, wondering why your flawless finish turns into a flaky façade by lunchtime.
Let me re-introduce to you the often dismissed, misunderstood, and criminally underrated superhero of our beauty routines, the humble primer.
I get it, adding a primer can feel like 'just another step' in an already chaotic a.m. routine that involves wrestling with a Dyson Airwrap and choosing between winged liner or being on time.
But, according to Australia's go-to glam king, celebrity makeup artist Shannon JJ Williams (who's painted the faces of Sophie Monk, Jesinta Franklin, Tammy Hembrow and even makeup guru Huda Kattan herself!), primer isn't optional, it's essential. And as a long-time makeup artist myself, I wholeheartedly agree.
'Primers are like secret weapons in my kit,' he told me. 'When humidity kicks in or I'm working with oily skin, a good primer can be a game-changer.'
Shannon also agreed that skin prep with a great serum, moisturiser and eye cream is essential, but a primer is there to perfect our complexions and give everything else something to grip onto.
And here's where it gets a little confusing for most, because primer isn't a one-size-fits-all tube of silicone anymore. There's now a full buffet of options designed for your skin's every mood, suited to every skin-type, tone, texture and concern.
Thankfully, I've broken down the who's, what's and why's of which base-stars you might want to invest in so you can prime like a pro – and finally have a stunning face of makeup that hasn't completely slid off by midday.
What are all these priming 'textures'?
According to Shannon, your primer's texture really does matter. 'It can be the difference between a flawless, all-day look and a makeup meltdown by lunchtime.'
It might sound simple, but there are some rules to follow especially if you're mixing textures in your makeup to stop pilling or a patchy mess.
'Think of it like matchmaking for your makeup - gel with gel, cream with cream, serum with light formulas,' Shannon said. 'When textures play nicely together, your makeup not only looks better, but lasts way longer too.'
It's also of note, that picking a primer based on your event and also your skin's needs (i.e. if it's feeling particularly dry, oily, or enflamed etc that day), employing a few textures is encouraged. Think of it like a primer wardrobe.
Hydrating Primers - For thirsty complexions try priming formulas packed with hyaluronic acid and glycerin, or you could adopt every make-up artist hack and just use Weleda Skin Food ($17.95).
(Everyone from Molly-Mae Hague to Victoria Beckham loves Skin Food as a make-up base – and this is one I always had in my professional kit for any clients with parched skin).
Blurring Primers – Kind of like a Kris Jenner Instagram filter IRL. These feather-light formulas work to smooth out texture and fill in fine lines and pores without feeling heavy.
They're more silicone-based (lots come silicone free too, btw) and act as a sort-of Polyfilla to level-over any bumpy texture you have. I love using mine just down my T-zone.
TRY: Huda Beauty Easy Blur Silicon-Free Smoothing Primer ($52) – Shannon's go-to product!
Mattifying Primers - Your answer to the 3pm T-zone meltdown. These shine-controlling primers keep oil in check, especially useful if you like a matte finish without looking flat or cakey.
You can slather these all over the face, or dot-prime in the shiny areas you think you need it.
TRY: Paula's Choice SHINE STOPPER Instant Matte Finish Oil Control Primer ($42)
Illuminating Primers – Great for a no-makeup-makeup look, these are infused with light-reflecting particles to give dull skin a little boost.
TRY: Holme Beauty Base Primer ($70)
Colour-Correcting Primers - Whether you're battling redness or just some rogue breakouts, there's a pastel-hued primer to neutralise it before foundation hits your face.
TRY: Stila One Step Correct ($63)
Silky Primers - These are your luxe-feeling, velvet-finish formulas that blur everything with a whisper-soft touch.
Shannon told me he loves using these on clients with mature or textured skin, as they sit beautifully without creasing, and can be used on all skin types.
So, what about make-up sprays?
If you want your make-up game to be elevated to an even higher level, makeup sprays work harmoniously to either lock in your makeup or give it that flawless, skin-like finish.
So, a primer (as listed above) goes on top of your skincare and under your makeup, and a make-up spray is the final step before you head out the door.
But here's where most people go wrong - they use the wrong spray for the job.
To make matters simple, my very talented make-up artist friend Claire Bridgett, recently explained in a video (below) exactly what the difference is between a setting spray and a finishing spray. Absolutely great for novices, and worth a watch like the rest of her videos.
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Setting sprays
It's in the name guys. These set your makeup no matter what, with a mist that forms a lightweight film over your makeup to make sure it doesn't melt, fade or budge.
Formulas often include polymers that bind your foundation, concealer and powder together.
'They help prevent creasing, stopping transfer, and keeping makeup set all day,' said Claire.
Charlotte Tilbury Airbrush Flawless Setting Sprays ($54) – This makes your skin look like you have a filter on it. It sets it and hydrates with a unique formula that creates a film over your skin to make it transfer resistant. Definitely a more dewy finish.
Urban Decay All Nighter ($66) – With a temperature control it apparently makes your skin stay cool. This version adds a satin finish to skin.
L'Oreal Paris Infallible 3-Second Setting Mist ($29.99) – The fine nozzle sprays the product like hairspray. 'This stuff is heavy duty and means our makeup will not move at all,' said Claire.
Clarins Fix' Make-Up Spray ($52) – Spotted in Rhianna's makeup artist Priscilla Ono's kit, she said 'I actually love Clarins... it makes your skin look like skin again!'
Hydrating finishing sprays
I should preface by saying that these don't really prolong your makeup as such, but they do help 'melt' it together and are best suited to dryer skin-types or those who love a dewy finish.
'It takes away cakiness and adds hydration,' said Claire. You can apply them under, over or between your makeup layers to enhance that sought after glass-skin glow.
These sprays are usually water or glycerin-based and sometimes even include shimmer or light-reflecting particles for that 'I woke up like this' radiance.
MAC Cosmetics Fix+ ($54) - a makeup artists favourite for a reason, it melts together all your makeup for a dewy finish.
Rare Beauty Always An Optimist 4-In-1 Mist ($50) - Gently shake the bi-phase mist and spritz in between layers of makeup to soften and hydrate product into the complexion for an instantly refreshed appearance.
Glow-getters with sun protection
We all know that SPF everyday is a non-negotiable, so I'm ecstatic to report that some of my favourite brands have combined a key makeup step and skin protection in one.
A new wave of multitasking bronzing drops and tinted serums are now here to give your skin a golden-hour glow, skincare benefits and sun protection of SPF50+ too.
I'd say these are most appealing to all the lazy, low-maintenance makeup users as their formulas add just the right amount of tint to fake a 'week in Byron' with minimal other base products needed on top.
On your more off-duty days, think of these as your primer, bronzer, sunscreen and skin tint in one. Blend a few drops into your daily SPF or layer under makeup for that 'your-skin-but-better' bronze.
I've just started using Emma Lewisham's brand new Sunceutical SPF50 Mineral Glow Serum ($83), and it's almost replaced my foundation entirely.
This one's quite dark, so those with fairer complexions I'd recommend using less and spreading it out a bit thinner (a little goes a very long way, btw) or mixing it will another, lighter consistency SPF formula.
It's also includes an ingredient called Palmitoyl Oligopeptide which helps protect against daily environmental stressors and sun damage while you're wearing it.
I then go in with a blurring primer just down my T-zone (I've been reaching for the Mecca Max Skin Filter Blurring Primer $25 recently, and I really rate it), then a concealer to dot any blemishes, redness and under my eyes – blended out with a damp sponge.
Naked Sundays CabanaGlow™ SPF50 Mineral Glow Serum Drops in Bronze ($45) – the fact that Dakota Johnson's makeup artist Georgie Eisdell just used this on her at Cannes is what initially sold me.
'To bring subtle warmth and definition to the face, I applied the CabanaGlow Drops along the jawline, cheekbones, and forehead. This added a soft, sun-kissed dimension,' she said of Dakota's red carpet glow.
Ultra Violette Queen Screen Super Glow Drops Bronzing SPF50 ($45) – I like that these can be tailored to your preference. Either mix a few drops into your SPF, layer on top of your SPF for a hit of radiance, or blend over make-up as a highlighter or bronzer on the high points of your face.
(DISCLAIMER: ALWAYS READ THE LABEL AND FOLLOW DIRECTS FOR USE)
So, the next time you think of skipping primer or settling for one-size-fits-all base products, please think again.
Between your perfect match in primers, these skin-perfecting SPF drops and set-all-day sprays, your face will be smoother, glowier, and infinitely more smug as you walk past a mirror at 3:37pm and see your perfect makeup still intact.
All opinions expressed in this article are entirely my own and reflect my genuine thoughts and experiences. They are not influenced by any external parties or sponsors.
