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CNA
3 days ago
- Lifestyle
- CNA
How this Japanese man went from pilgrim to sushi chef
The men lower their net, taut with thrashing fish, into the water. Most of them bolt into the deep, save for a handful of sea bream that nestle contentedly against the nylon threads. 'Why aren't they moving?' a young Taku Ashino asked his older companion. 'Those are fish that escaped from a farm,' came the reply. 'They're used to being carried in and out of the water by nets.' The answer struck Ashino like a lightning bolt. It dawned on him that like the farmed fish, he too had been sheltered and shaped by the safety of routine, reluctant to leave the comforts of home. There was only one thing to do. 'I decided to drop out of university and become a pilgrim to face my true self,' he said as we sat in his restaurant along Club Street. 'I didn't know what I wanted to be, but I knew I could find my way if I was true to myself.' Ashino spent the next two years walking the Shikoku Henro, a 1,207-km pilgrimage that links 88 temples across Shikoku Island's four prefectures. Following in the footsteps of generations of spiritual seekers before him, he roamed the remote trails, discovering not only a different side of his home country but also unknown facets of himself. In solitude, he found clarity. He discovered he could talk to the birds and the butterflies, and as the distinction between self and surroundings dissolved, became attuned to the rhythms of nature and the interconnectedness of all life. When he completed the pilgrimage, he briefly considered becoming a monk. 'But monks are also caught in a net,' he added. 'That net is called Buddhism. So I decided to come back to university and study very hard.' To fund his post-graduate studies in religious philosophy, Ashino took a job at a restaurant where he encountered another figure who would alter the course of his life. 'The chef's name is Sekine. He was the sous chef and a sushi chef at the izakaya where I worked. I immediately knew I wanted to be like him.' SUSHI IS LIFE Two decades on and the tenets of religious philosophy and the belief in nature's divinity remain a core part of Ashino. They guide the way he works and how he deals with the living creatures he uses for his food. In the 10 years since he opened Sushi Ashino in Singapore, he has made aged sashimi or jukusei a hallmark of his offerings. This, he said, is his way of respecting each life he takes in the service of feeding his diners well. 'This is my respect. I am not just cutting fresh fish. I use the best ingredients and enhance each flavour and texture.' Under his charge, silvery-skinned gizzard shad is cured in salt and vinegar, and tusk fish carefully aged between briny sheets of kombu. The longest he's aged a fish is five months. At three months, the flesh of a Spanish mackerel was firm and chewy, with a dryness that intensifies the dab of wasabi which fills my mouth with a persistent warmth. Another aspect of honouring his catches is shinkejime, a method of dispatching fish he picked up from Hiroki Hasegawa, a well-known fish broker in Japan. The technique involves holding the fish in a particular spot to keep it calm and the swift severing of its spinal cord, which purportedly causes the animal little stress and slows the degeneration process. For practice, Ashino fishes in local waters. 'I do many (shinkejime) practice on the Singapore fish. Sometimes, I do shinkejime on one fish and not on another of the same type of fish to compare. And definitely, without shinkejime, there is a smell,' he said. Not everyone is excited about the prospect of dining on sashimi cut from local fish, but it's a prejudice Ashino hopes to debunk over time. 'Singapore fish is just as good as Japan fish,' he explained. 'Of course, the sea temperature is higher than Japan, so the fish is leaner, but I think it's very creamy and even better for freshness,' he said. He offers these local fish — snappers, horse mackerel, trevally and the like — as a complimentary surprise for regulars. He remarked that Japanese diners are more appreciative of this service because of its uniqueness and the effort and skill required. Singaporean diners, on the other hand, need some persuasion. 'So what I want for the coming decade is just continuing to supply the local fish as much as I could. And also, that could be the uniqueness for my restaurant, because nobody serves the Singaporean fish with the shinkejime method,' he explained. Another evolution at Ashino is a structural change to his menu. Inspired by a recent experience at the vaunted Sushi Sho in New York City, Ashino now offers a hybrid experience: A short omakase followed by an okonomi (a la carte) menu. '[Sushi Sho owner] Keiji Nakazawa is the one who created omakase about 40 years ago. But now he feels that younger chefs simply rely on the omakase menu. Omakase, you just serve, that's all. Okonomi menu requires skill.' An okonomi menu, he continued, calls for adaptability. It means cooking dishes or making sushi on the fly, without the predictability of the omakase format. In turn, the experience is more personal for the diner. Today, Ashino continues to draw on the clarity that set him on the Shikoku Henro all those years ago. His deep belief in the interconnectedness of all life isn't something he talks about openly, but is instead channelled to the thoughtful, exacting food he serves.
Japan Times
24-05-2025
- General
- Japan Times
As spring unfolds, sea bream turns into a prized catch
A quintessential fish that is in season now is madai or simply tai (red sea bream) that is highly prized as a luxury fish and served on festive occasions, such as birthdays, weddings and New Year holidays. One of the tastiest ways to enjoy tai is as taimeshi, sea bream with rice. Originating as a fishermen's meal in Ehime Prefecture in Shikoku, taimeshi is now a staple in Japan and at its most popular when fresh tai is available. Every part of the fish is prized for its refined umami and delicate flavor, which is why it is often served grilled whole and sprinkled with salt. Even when it's cut up and filleted, none of the fish is wasted: The ara (bones left after filleting) and head are used for making dashi. The recipe below is a simplified version of tai that can be made in a rice cooker or a relatively small donabe (Japanese claypot) or heavy-bottomed cast-iron pot. A whole fish can be difficult to deal with, so purchase the ara and fish filets separately. The fish is often served grilled whole and sprinkled with salt to complement its delicate taste. | MAKIKO ITOH Serves 2 to 3 Prep time: 40 minutes Cook time: 40 minutes Ingredients: 300 grams (2 rice cooker cups) uncooked white rice 160 grams (2 pieces) boned, skin-on tai filets 1 packet tai ara Salt 1 10-centimeter square piece of kombu 2 tablespoons light soy sauce 1 tablespoon sake Kinome (sanshō pepper leaves) for garnish Directions: 1. Rinse the rice in four to five rounds of water. Drain the grains into a fine-meshed colander and set them aside for 30 minutes. 2. Cut the fish filets into bite-size pieces. Salt the filets and ara on both sides well. Preheat an oven to 250 degrees Celsius and line a baking sheet with kitchen parchment paper. 3. Soak the kombu in 500 milliliters of water for 20 to 30 minutes. In the meantime, put the ara on the lined baking sheet in the oven and grill for 10 minutes until they turn lightly browned but not burned. (Alternatively, grill the ara on a fish grill until lightly browned.) 4. Remove the kombu from the water, add the browned ara and cook over medium heat. When the water starts to bubble gently, turn the heat down to low and skim off any scum. Simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, then remove the ara. 5. Put the rice in a rice cooker and add the dashi from step 4, plus your soy sauce and sake. Top with the fish filets and cook on a regular setting until done. If using a pot, place the ingredients in a similar fashion. Cook with the lid on over high heat before turning it down to low and cooking for 15 minutes. Let it steam for 20 minutes. 6. Fluff up the rice gently with a rice paddle, taking care not to mash the fish filets too much. Garnish the rice with kinome. Any leftover rice can also make tasty onigiri (rice balls).
NHK
24-05-2025
- Climate
- NHK
Heavy rainfall warning for Sunday in eastern Japan
Downpours hit parts of the Shikoku and Tokai regions from Saturday evening to early Sunday. Weather officials are urging caution against mudslides mainly on the Pacific coast side of eastern Japan. The Meteorological Agency says a low-pressure system accompanied by a front brought extremely heavy rainfall to Shikoku and Tokai on Saturday evening. Rain clouds developed over the Tokai and Kanto-Koshin regions through early Sunday. In one hour through 1 a.m., 71 millimeters of rain fell in Toba city in Mie Prefecture. In Shizuoka Prefecture, 31.5 millimeters of rain fell in Omaezaki City in the one-hour period through 3 a.m. Landslide warnings were in place for a brief period in Tokushima and Mie prefectures. Eastern Japan, particularly on the Pacific side, may get heavy rainfall in the morning hours as the front and low-pressure system pass over the region. Weather officials are calling on people to be on high alert for possible landslides, flooding in low-lying areas, swollen rivers, lightning strikes and gusty winds including tornadoes.
NHK
24-05-2025
- Climate
- NHK
Heavy rain forecast in western and eastern Japan along Pacific coast on Sunday
Weather officials are warning of torrential rain on the Pacific side of western and eastern Japan through Sunday morning. They are calling on people to be on high alert for possible landslides, flooding in low-lying areas, swollen rivers, lightning strikes and gusty winds including tornadoes. The Meteorological Agency says a low-pressure system accompanied by a front brought rain to western Japan and elsewhere on Saturday morning. In one hour before and after noon on Saturday, more than 50 millimeters of rain fell in Kagoshima Prefecture. Rain clouds also developed over the Shikoku region. In Kochi Prefecture, 63 millimeters of rain fell in Tosashimizu City in the one-hour period through 5 p.m. Kuroshio Town, also in the prefecture, had 46 millimeters of rain between 5 p.m. and 6 p.m. The low-pressure system is expected to pass over western Japan to eastern Japan through Sunday. A warm, humid air mass will flow in toward the low and the front, making atmospheric conditions extremely unstable. Some parts of western and eastern Japan, especially along the Pacific coast, may see hourly rainfall of more than 50 millimeters accompanied by localized thunder through Sunday morning. In the 24 hours through Sunday evening, the Kinki and Tokai regions can expect up to 180 millimeters of rain, and Shikoku will get up to 150 millimeters. Kanto-Koshin will have up to 120 millimeters.
Yahoo
17-05-2025
- Yahoo
These 6 coastal activities are on the rise—here's how to try them
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). The coast has always held a magnetic pull. It's where we walk for clarity, drawn by the hypnotic crash of waves; where we plunge into saltwater, emerging recharged; and where we linger at sunset, captivated by the endless horizon. Research shows that being near water can lower stress and enhance wellbeing — a feeling many travellers are now actively seeking. Fortunately, there's no shortage of coastal activities on offer, from adrenaline-fuelled coasteering in Australia to foraging for sea greens along South Africa's shores. The trend: The boost of an electric motor is transforming two-wheeled adventures, making steep climbs effortless and longer coastal routes more accessible. This low-impact, high-reward travel style is surging in popularity, especially in scenic coastal regions like Portugal's rugged Algarve and California's sun-drenched shores. Where to do it: E-bike your way along the Shimanami Kaido, a 43.5-mile route that links Japan's main island, Honshu, to Shikoku, crossing the Seto Inland Sea via seven dramatic suspension bridges. 'Gliding from bridge to island and island to bridge, with the Seto Inland Sea stretching endlessly around you, is a truly unforgettable experience,' says Miho Ogura, co-founder of Hidden Japan Travel, a tour operator specialising in outdoor experiences in Shikoku. Hidden Japan Travel's three-day self-guided tour is the ultimate coastal escape, winding through serene fishing villages, citrus-scented islands, white sandy beaches and seafood-rich shores. The trend: Those with an appetite for adventure are searching for new ways to test their grit and, with much of the world's land so well-trodden, solitude seekers have found an intrepid solution: kayak camping. This growing pursuit blends the freedom of kayaking with the raw beauty of wild camping, unlocking access to remote coastlines — from the rugged fringes of the US to the forested islands of Scandinavia. Where to do it: Scattered across the Baltic Sea, the Stockholm Archipelago is a vast sprawl of more than 30,000 islands, many of which are uninhabited. 'I spent my childhood summers sailing the archipelago,' says Jakob Rudberg, co-founder of The Kayak Trail, a boutique company specialising in guided kayak and wild camping adventures across the Stockholm Archipelago. 'There are no tides, currents or big swells to worry about, and the weather is often stable and fair.' Adventurers can paddle late into sunlit summer nights, spot Baltic seals and moose, plunge into refreshing waters and sleep on serene island shores. Plus, a right of public access provides the sweeping freedom to roam — and even set up camp — almost anywhere in the great outdoors. The trend: While saunas have long been a Nordic staple, they're now making serious waves in the UK. According to the British Sauna Society, Finnish-style public saunas have seen a scorching 63% year-on-year rise nationwide from 2024 to 2025, with coastal regions like Wales leading the charge. 'People are increasingly seeking new ways to improve their health, de-stress and connect with others,' explains Scott Chalmers, co-founder of Wildwater Sauna, a luxury, wood-fired sauna in Pembrokeshire, Wales. 'Not only does our circulation, heart, lungs and skin respond positively to hot and cold exposure, it also has a profound effect on our immune system, metabolism and mental health.' Where to try it: Wildwater's magic lies in its movement. This roaming hot box glides along Pembrokeshire's coastline each month, setting up in stunning spots like the secluded cove of Nolton Haven and the sweeping sands of Whitesands Bay. 'Each location offers a fresh perspective and a bracing post-sauna plunge into the icy Atlantic,' Scott says. 'We want to give our guests an ever-changing experience that deepens their connection with nature.' The trend: Foraging is enjoying a renaissance, driven by a growing desire for self-sufficiency and mindful consumption in the wake of climate change. The coast is a particular draw, as it's where a nutrient-rich larder can be found across intertidal areas, like the UK, Scandinavia, the Pacific Northwest and South Africa. Where to try it: Explore the intertidal wonders of dune-fringed Scarborough Beach with Veld and Sea's summer coastal foraging experiences. This briny banquet of biodiversity features everything from nutrient-rich kelp and nori to shellfish, sea urchins, sour figs and samphire. 'With the warm Indian Ocean on the east coast and the icy Atlantic on the west, the biodiversity is incredibly rich,' says Roushanna Gray, founder of Veld and Sea, a South African company offering wild food foraging workshops and unique nature experiences. A half-day workshop takes you through rock pools, sustainable harvesting techniques and the art of preparing and preserving your wild finds. The experience culminates in a seasonal, ocean-inspired feast served in Veld and Sea's enchanting glasshouse. The trend: Born on the rugged Welsh coast around 40 years ago, coasteering has since made a splash worldwide, from the chilly cliffs of Cornwall to the sun-drenched shores of the Mediterranean and Australia. A fusion of 'coast' and 'mountaineering', this adrenaline-fuelled adventure combines swell-riding, rock jumping, sea-cliff scrambling and even wildlife-spotting, unlocking coastlines once thought unreachable. Where to do it: Western Australia's Margaret River region is a coasteering paradise, says Jaydn Woosnam, owner-operator of Margaret River Adventure Co, a coasteering operator in Western Australia: 'With more than 62 miles of untouched rugged coastline, we're spoiled with stunning beaches, towering granite formations and an ocean teeming with wildlife.' Suit up in a wetsuit, life jacket and helmet, then take the plunge — scramble through natural sea canals, ride surging swells, leap from cliffs and keep an eye out for seals or migrating whales along the way. The trend: As coastal communities increasingly prioritise the protection of their fragile natural habitats, educational tours have gained popularity. Family-friendly tide pool tours are among the most sought-after experiences in regions rich with marine life, such as the UK, Pacific Northwest and New Zealand. These tours offer a unique opportunity to explore intertidal ecosystems and observe the fascinating creatures that live there. Where to do it: The rugged Oregon coastline, stretching from Yachats to Heceta Head, is home to one of the Pacific Coast's most biodiverse ecosystems. 'The rocky basalt cliffs create the perfect environment for extraordinary tide pools,' says Jamie Kish, a field guide and tide pool ambassador at Oregon's Cape Perpetua Collaborative, a conservation group within the Cape Perpetua Marine Reserve. 'Incredible life thrives in the countless nooks and crannies, enduring the harsh elements along the rugged edge of the world's largest ocean.' On a tour (available by donation from late May to August), discover a kaleidoscope of vibrant species, including purple urchins, giant green anemones, striped shore crabs, ochre sea stars and colourful sea slugs. Published in the Coastal Collection 2025 by National Geographic Traveller (UK).To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
