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Tokyo Weekender
7 days ago
- Tokyo Weekender
Koyasan Pilgrimage: Exploring Japan's Holiest Buddhist Sanctuary
This article appeared in Tokyo Weekender Vol. 2, 2025. To read the entire issue, click here . Almost 1,200 years ago, one of the most famous Japanese monks, Kukai, entered his eternal meditation on the eastern peak of Mount Koya. The monk, known posthumously as Kobo Daishi, slipped into death mid-prayer. Shingon belief states that though his physical body perished, his spirit still remains on Mount Koya, awaiting Miroku Nyorai, Buddha of the Future, and watching over one of Japan's holiest mountains. To this day, two shojin ryori (traditional Buddhist vegetarian cuisine) meals are brought to Kobo Daishi's mausoleum every day to sustain the monk's spirit. In the late summer of 2023, along with my mother and grandmother, I visited Mount Koya — or Koyasan in Japanese, which is how I prefer to refer to it. My grandmother had walked the Shikoku pilgrimage, a route connecting 88 temples said to have been visited by Kobo Daishi in the ninth century. Although not officially part of the circuit, Koyasan is considered its spiritual beginning and end, as it's the revered monk's final resting place. She wanted to complete the journey while her legs were still strong enough to make the trek. Holy Pilgrimage Koyasan refers to a mountain basin and its surrounding peaks, as well as the temple complex that spans the area. Found in Kansai's Wakayama Prefecture, it's a tremendously important site in Japanese Buddhism. The birthplace and spiritual center of Shingon Buddhism, the mountainous area was home to over 2,000 temples in the Edo period, 117 of which remain. These 117 temples are still open to visitors today. It's possible to take a cable car or bus to the top, but the spiritually or athletically inclined can ascend to the peak using ancient pilgrimage trails. Among these is Choishi Michi, the original main trail, a 23.5-kilometer hike that winds through the forest. 'After climbing a steep mountain path, a religious city suddenly appears, lined with temples and monastic lodgings. The air is clear, and a solemn atmosphere filled with tradition surrounds you,' Nobuhiro Tamura, the former chief administrator of a temple on Koyasan and current head operator of a Koyasan tour company, explains. 'It is a place where you can get a glimpse into the original landscape of Japan, where many people with deep faith in Kobo Daishi still live.' It might have simply been the temperature drop and the misty weather, but Koyasan's ambience left me feeling chilled and mystified on my journey there. Visitors enter the complex through Daimon, a 25-meter-tall gate flanked by guardian statues, marking the symbolic threshold between the secular world and the sacred mountain temple town. As we passed through, our guide pointed out the route that would lead to Fudozaka-guchi Nyonin-do, the only surviving women's hall of the seven that once stood on the perimeter of the temple complex. Women weren't allowed to enter the holy grounds until 1872, and even then, they faced strict restrictions and resistance. It wasn't until the early 20th century that they received full and equal access. Instead, female pilgrims would hike the perimeter of Koyasan and go to surrounding sanctuaries with direct ties to Kobo Daishi in order to experience a fraction of the area's holy energy. The difficult and even dangerous route became known as Nyonin Michi, now a symbol of devout, resilient female worship. I looked to my grandmother and mother, the three of us comprising three generations of women, casually visiting a mountain we would have once been barred from. I suddenly felt a rush of pride and appreciation. I stood a little taller and tilted my head up, beckoning the energy around me. Kobo Daishi's Resting Place Some of Koyasan's main highlights include the Danjo Garan, the central temple complex; the Tokugawa mausoleum enshrining Ieyasu and his son Hidetada; and, of course, Okunoin, the site of the mausoleum of Kobo Daishi and the largest cemetery in Japan. The cemetery is home to over 200,000 tombstones, including a rocket-shaped tombstone modeled after Apollo 11 and a Yakult-shaped tombstone. To enter the site of Kobo Daishi's mausoleum, visitors must cross Gobyobashi Bridge, beyond which food and photography are not allowed and talking must be kept to a minimum. The tour guide asked us to bow to Kobo Daishi and meditatively cross the bridge, one wooden plank at a time. My gaze zeroed in on the planks as if one misstep would reveal me to be careless or disrespectful. On the other side of the bridge awaits Torodo Hall, a sanctuary illuminated by 20,000 lanterns. Guests aren't permitted to enter the mausoleum itself, but may instead pay respect from outside of the monk's eternal meditative place. As soon as I crossed the bridge, a whole-body shudder coursed through me. I held my breath instinctively and felt an all-encompassing presence around me, understanding me, protecting me. I looked over to my mother, and she returned a quick, wide-eyed nod. 'Iru ne,' she said. He's here . Temple Lodgings at Koysasan For those looking to deepen their spiritual experience even further, Koyasan also presents guests with the opportunity to stay at a temple lodging, called shukubo. 'There are around 50 shukubo, and many of them can be booked easily online,' Tamura notes. For visitors coming between March and November, he advises booking far in advance. 'On the other hand, if you prefer a quieter experience, winter is a peaceful season with crisp, clear air — just make sure to come prepared for the cold.' Staying at a temple makes for a wholly new level of immersion in the culture of Koyasan. Shukubo experiences offer spiritual understanding through lived experience and actual religious practice, allowing guests to eat, pray and sleep like a monk on temple grounds. A shukubo experience provides the chance to slow down and find profound meaning in quiet, everyday moments: walking through the temple's impeccably polished wooden corridors, trying thoughtfully prepared shojin ryori meals, engaging in rituals such as gongyo (daily sutra chanting) and goma (a fire ritual prayer) and admiring carefully maintained gardens. Staying at a shukubo also allows guests to explore Koyasan at night; the red temple buildings of Danjo Garan have a completely different ambience when illuminated in the evening. There's something to be said for experiencing the entire 24-hour cycle in Koyasan, watching the sun dip in the evening and welcoming the sunrise the next day, practicing gratitude and reflection for the things we take for granted, guided by the spirit of Kobo Daishi. More Info Book your own trip to Koyasan here . Related Posts Nachi Falls: Where Nature Meets Spirituality in Wakayama Staying Overnight in a Japanese Temple: A Day at Tokei-in Temple The World of Japanese Buddhism: The Major Schools and Sects
Tokyo Weekender
7 days ago
- Tokyo Weekender
6 Temples in Kyoto and Nara Famous for Their Seasonal Flowers
This article appeared in Tokyo Weekender Vol. 2, 2025. To read the entire issue, click here . As old capitals of Japan, Kyoto and Nara have long been centers of faith and tradition, the mountains around them revered as sacred spaces bridging the natural and the divine. Scattered throughout this topography are isolated temples and shrines, each with its own deep history and profound beauty. Among these secluded mountain temples, a few are known among locals for the way they come alive when flowers bloom — cherry blossom petals drifting through the air in spring, hydrangeas blooming in quiet clusters come early summer or spider lilies and cosmos carpeting the ground as autumn approaches. Though these places are a wonder to visit year-round, they take on an even more otherworldly feeling when their signature flowers bloom. Tsubosaka-dera: Takatori, Nara Tucked in the mountains of Nara Prefecture, not far from Mount Yoshino, sits Tsubosaka-dera . Though it's not as well known as Yoshino for its cherry blossoms, anyone who visits during this season can witness the temple's large seated Buddha statue floating in a cloud of sakura — a quiet spectacle all its own. The temple is also beloved for its pale pink pagoda, which makes for stunning springtime photos. The name 'Tsubosaka-dera' means 'jar on a hillside temple.' According to legend, the temple was founded in 703 by the monk Benki, who apparently had a beloved glass jar. While practicing asceticism on the mountain, a vision of Kannon, the goddess of mercy, appeared inside it, and so he placed the jar in a hermitage on top of the mountain. This is said to be the temple's origin. A few centuries later, Sei Shonagon mentioned Tsubosaka-dera in The Pillow Book , where it's included in her list of temples with miraculous powers. Gansenji: Kizugawa, Kyoto Deep in the forested mountains of southern Kyoto Prefecture, an isolated pagoda rises from the greenery. This three-story wooden pagoda is part of Gansenji , which, according to the temple's documents, was founded in 729 by the celebrated Buddhist priest Gyoki. Mystically serene in every season, Gansenji is a great spot for viewing both cherry blossoms and autumn colors, but early summer is when Gansenji really comes alive. Every June, when the hydrangeas bloom, the temple grounds are filled with white, pink, blue and purple tiny clouds against the lush green of the surrounding forest, and lotus flowers fill the pond. Hasedera: Sakurai, Nara Nestled in the mountains near the ancient town of Sakurai in Nara Prefecture lies the sprawling temple complex of Hasedera . Founded in 686, Hasedera is the center of the Bunzan school of Shingon Buddhism, and the temple complex consists of 30 buildings dotted around the hillside. Leading up to the main hall is the temple's famous covered wooden staircase of 399 steps, which is lined with peonies in the early spring and leads to an outdoor staircase decorated with hydrangeas in early summer. The main hall at the top offers a spectacular view of the temple complex and its surroundings, particularly during the cherry blossom season and when the leaves change in the autumn. Shojuin: Ujitawara, Kyoto During the summer, more than 2,000 wind chimes adorn this remote temple in southern Kyoto. The soft clinking of the decorated wind chimes, heard from the beginning of July until mid-September, is the origin of Shojuin's nickname, Furinji — the Wind Chime Temple . Though the Wind Chime Festival is a summer event, the temple offers seasonal beauty year-round, best viewed through the reception hall's heart-shaped window looking out onto the garden. The hall's ceiling is also decorated with 160 colorful paintings of flowers and other Japanese art, creating a splendid scene overhead. Butsuryu-ji: Uda, Nara Situated in Nara Prefecture, Butsuryu-ji has become well known for the spider lilies that turn the temple grounds into a carpet of vibrant red every year in early autumn. The temple is also popular locally as a sakura viewing spot due to its famous 900-year-old resident, Sennen-Zakura, a huge cherry tree that greets visitors along the entrance path. Butsuryu-ji was founded in 850 by the monk Kenne, a disciple of Kobo Daishi. Behind the main temple buildings, carved into the mountainside, is an ancient-looking stone chamber, which is generally accepted to be Kenne's grave. Hannya-ji: Nara City, Nara Every year in early autumn, a meadow of cosmos blooms around this temple on the outskirts of Nara city. The 'Hannya' of the temple's name is a transliteration of the Sanskrit word for 'wisdom,' but today, Hannya-ji is more often associated with these flowers, and is nicknamed the Cosmos Temple. Hannya-ji is rumored to have been founded in 629 by the monk Ekan, who came to Japan from one of the three kingdoms of ancient Korea. Many of the buildings and artifacts at the temple have been designated Important Cultural Properties, in particular the gate entrance, a National Treasure dating to the 13th century. Related Posts Stunning Flower Festivals in Japan To Visit This Spring Ashikaga Flower Park: A Dreamy Destination in Any Season List of 7: Recommended Japanese Flower Parks
