Latest news with #Shishapangma
The National
16 hours ago
- Health
- The National
Dubai adventurer tells how tragedy and 'toxic' climbing culture made her question historic mountain quest
Fierce competition among elite climbers at the rooftop of the world forced one Dubai climber to reconsider her challenge to become the first Pakistani woman to summit the 14 highest peaks on the planet. Former banker Naila Kiani thought long and hard about resuming her challenge before taking on Mount Kanchenjunga (8,586 metres), the third-highest mountain in the world, on May 23, almost two years since her last climb. With 11 mountain climbs in the bag in 2023, Ms Kiani looked set to achieve her goal before tragedy struck during a competitive climb of Shishapangma that claimed the lives of four of her colleagues. An avalanche at 7,800 metres cost the lives of Anna Gutu and Gina Rzucidlo, who were racing to become the first American women to achieve the feat of scaling 14 mountains above 8,000 metres. Their Sherpa guides Migmar Sherpa and Tenjen Lama also perished during the climb on October 7. Mount Shishapangma was the final peak left for both women to complete the big 14. Those tragedies caused Ms Kiani to reflect on her own attempt to join an elite band of 16 women to compete the mountaineering endeavour. 'At the time of the accident there was a toxic competition among climbers to achieve their goals, but the mountain wasn't ready,' Ms Kiani, a mother of two, told The National after arriving back in Dubai from Nepal. 'There was fresh snow, which can be dangerous, but everybody still went ahead because there were two women competing to be the first American to climb the 14 peaks. That year, I had already climbed eight mountains in less than six months. I wanted to complete this challenge as soon as possible, but last year, after everything that happened, I nearly gave up." One climb at a time As she returned to training early this year, and after much soul-searching, Ms Kiani refocused on first scaling Kanchenjunga – the highest mountain in India. Before completing her expedition to the peak, she endured a crucial phase of acclimatisation at a 6,400-metre base camp to adapt her body to the extreme altitude. This process underscores the physical and mental discipline required for such a treacherous climb, and is a critical aspect of every climb at altitude. Having already successfully summited 11 of the 14 highest mountains on Earth, including Everest, K2, Annapurna, Lhotse and Makalu, Ms Kiani hopes that by resuming her challenge, she can inspire others. 'Unfortunately the last few years for climbing has turned into this competition to be the best, rather than an opportunity to use the mountains to develop yourself, learn and become a better person,' she said. 'What happened in Shishapangma is a really good example of how the mountain conditions were ignored because people got complacent and thought they were invincible after climbing 13 mountains. 'We never imagined for a second there could be an accident. Bad weather conditions are ignored just because of this competitive mindset. Most Pakistani women, especially after getting married and having kids, 95 per cent of them don't follow their passion. I had a lot of messages from around the world encouraging me to continue, which I found inspiring. I have a bigger purpose to carry on, but definitely the incident put me off for many months.' Before looking towards revisiting the challenge of climbing Shishapangma later this year, Ms Kiani faces weeks of preparation. Summer training That will now take place in September, before she plans to complete the set of mountain peaks by climbing the 8,167-metre Dhaulagiri in Nepal in April 2026. Until then, she will spend the summer in Dubai, and use the mountains of Ras Al Khaimah and Fujairah as training grounds. 'Living in Dubai, all I can do is go hiking and get in the gym to focus on my strength training and cardio,' said Ms Kiani. 'Sometimes I hike during peak summer hours because in the mountain when the sun is out, the UV rays get reflected and we are wearing down suits which makes it really hot, so the training environment is very useful. 'Of course we need to keep in mind the dehydration, and not to put ourselves on risk. I once got hit by a rock in the UAE and I got stuck in a flash flood, so anything can happen, even here. 'Whether it's a small mountain or a big mountain, safety is always priority, but I'm confident I will come back safely to my children. On every mountain, I keep praying for a safe summit.'
Gulf Today
19-05-2025
- Sport
- Gulf Today
Pakistan's Sirbaz scales 14 world's highest peaks without oxygen
In a moment of great pride for Pakistan, renowned mountaineer Sirbaz Khan became the first person from Pakistan to summit all 14 of the world's highest peaks without supplemental oxygen, completing the milestone by reaching the top of Kangchenjunga. This remarkable feat was accomplished in Nepal, according to Karrar Haidri, Secretary of the Alpine Club of Pakistan. The final milestone came on Sunday when Sirbaz reached the summit of Kangchenjunga (8,586 metres) at 11:50am local time. A native of Hunza Valley, Sirbaz began his journey in 2017 with the ascent of Nanga Parbat. 'When I started this journey after summiting Nanga Parbat, my goal was clear: all 14×8000m peaks without supplemental oxygen,' he had said earlier during his Annapurna climb. Globally, fewer than 25 climbers have achieved this feat without oxygen, placing Sirbaz in one of the most elite circles in mountaineering history. Kanchenjunga, the third-highest mountain in the world, was scaled by Sirbaz in full alpine style-a method marked by complete independence and minimal support, without fixed camps or external oxygen. Haidri emphasised that Sirbaz Khan's incredible journey is a decade-long tale of passion, sacrifice, and endurance, adding that he climbed all the eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen and without using pre-established camps. This achievement not only places Sirbaz Khan among the elite ranks of the world's greatest climbers but also illuminates Pakistan's name on the global mountaineering stage. The Alpine Club of Pakistan has officially declared Sirbaz Khan a national hero, with Haidri noting that this son of Gilgit-Baltistan has etched his place among the finest climbers in mountaineering history. 'Sirbaz Khan's success,' said Haidri, 'is a glowing torch of inspiration for the new generation.' Sirbaz has consistently broken ground for Pakistani climbers. He became the first Pakistani to scale Lhotse in 2019, followed by Annapurna and Dhaulagiri in 2021, and Makalu in 2022—all without bottled oxygen. In 2023, he summited Cho Oyu, and in October 2024, he completed Shishapangma—his 14th and final peak. He also led all-Pakistani expeditions to Gasherbrum I and II, helping elevate Pakistan's profile in high-altitude mountaineering. By re-climbing the two previously oxygen-assisted peaks, Sirbaz Khan has not only met his personal goal but also set a new national benchmark in mountaineering excellence. Agencies
