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The Star
03-08-2025
- Entertainment
- The Star
The enduring allure of Pucci: A print-fuelled takeover with staying power
First came Hot Girl Summer. Then Sad Girl Autumn, Tomato Girl Summer and Short King Spring. If the law of any vibe-defining term is that it must spawn its own aesthetic genealogy, it was only a matter of time before the designation of the season became clear. As to what that may be… well, 'It's a Pucci girl summer,' one TikTok trend-watcher summed up. 'A Pucci girl summer,' another echoed. 'The Pucci woman is taking over my summer moodboard,' British Vogue stated. The brand, founded by Marchese Emilio Pucci di Barsento in 1947 and known for its swirling, sunlight-on-the-Med prints and Cote D'Azur colours, is now located not just in the stable of the luxury group LVMH, but also in the resort of the mind. It has captured both the imagination of the social media sphere, where buzz can act as a sort of mirage, and the retail moment. 'Pucci is currently our number one resort brand, with sales more than doubling year-on-year,' said Heather Kaminsky, the CEO of Net-a-Porter. This is true among customers in the US and Europe, she said: 'Especially our frequently traveling EIPs' (extremely important people)." Read more: Victoria Beckham's fashion brand turns a corner, so does she with a documentary Pucci has captured both the imagination of the social media sphere, where buzz can act as a sort of mirage, and the retail moment. Photo: Instagram/Pucci A spokesperson for Mytheresa, which introduced a Pucci capsule collection in April, said 'basically everything is a bestseller'. According to Katy Lubin, the vice president of brand and communications for Lyst, an e-commerce aggregator, searches for Pucci are up 81% year on year, and 96% quarter on quarter. It's such a notable jump that, for the first time, Pucci will be included as one of the Moving Fast brands in Lyst's next hotness report. Google Trends has interest in Pucci at a 20-year high in the US. Sidney Toledano, who oversees the LVMH Fashion Group, which includes Pucci as well as Celine, Givenchy and Kenzo, said sales at the brand's stores had grown 50% to 60% over the past year. It's 'amazing', he said with some surprise. At a time when luxury in general is experiencing a widespread downturn, with sales falling almost across the board, Luca Solca, a luxury analyst at Bernstein, called Pucci 'a rare success story'. Another way to think of it, however, is as a happiness story. Also as an escape story and an accessible fantasy, all rolled into a sarong or a pareo, halter-neck top, bucket hat or bikini. Given the current political and social climate, who wouldn't want some of that, right about now? 'These aren't just outfits, they're summer declarations,' Kaminsky said. The current Pucci revival can be traced back to the somewhat left-field appointment of Camille Miceli as artistic director in 2021. Miceli was not a trained designer. She began her career as a de facto muse to Marc Jacobs and Nicolas Ghesquiere, channeling a certain, very insouciant Frenchness before trying her hand at accessories for Dior and Louis Vuitton. She was handed the top job at Pucci, Toledano said, as much for her 'energy' as her ability to reinvent a silhouette, her ability to make dancing on tables until dawn in high heels and no makeup seem like the most fabulous fun in the world. That was the essence of Pucci, from the first ski suit Emilio Pucci designed for a girlfriend to his first shop in Capri, and it's what the clothes represent. And yet the attitude had been out of fashion for a while. Ever since LVMH bought Pucci in 2000, it had been trying to shoehorn the brand into its high fashion model, appointing a series of celebrated designers – Christian Lacroix, Matthew Williamson, Peter Dundas – to reinvent the aesthetic for the runway, all to no particular avail. 'People were saying maybe the problem was the print,' Toledano said. That the designs needed more black, more solids; that the market was saturated with all those stale swirls. Read more: Phoebe Philo's take on fashion's new 'New Look': Chic, clever, boldly weird Miceli had a different idea. The print was not the problem, she thought. The print was the solution. The problem was Pucci pretending to be what it was not (directional, conceptual) and taking itself too seriously. So she did away with all that, offering once-a-year destination shows off the fashion schedule (but just before Resort season) in glamorous beachy places. They functioned less as fashion shows than as getaway weekends, complete with yoga classes, poolside soirees and see-now-buy-now clothes. Anyone feeling the urge could Puccify themselves pretty much immediately. Rather than focusing on numerous store openings, she focused on pop-ups in places like Portofino and Saint-Tropez. And she enlisted ambassadors like Amelia Gray for ad campaigns that featured the model chomping on a cake made to look like a Pucci handbag. People were laughing and crying 'inappropriate' in equal measure. The result was, Lubin said, 'the ultimate lifestyle flex'. All those Pucci prints are essentially a Rorschach test in which viewers see sunsets on the Croisette and yachts moored off the Amalfi coast – whether or not they are actually in any of those places or feel any sea breeze in their hair. The prints, Lubin said, 'are totally recognisable to those who know, but still have some insider credibility'. This article originally appeared in The New York Times.


New York Times
24-07-2025
- Entertainment
- New York Times
The Allure of a Pucci Girl Summer
First came Hot Girl Summer. Then Sad Girl Autumn, Tomato Girl Summer and Short King Spring. If the law of any vibe-defining term is that it must spawn its own aesthetic genealogy, it was only a matter of time before the designation of the season became clear. As to what that may be … well, 'It's a Pucci girl summer,' one TikTok trend-watcher summed up. 'A Pucci girl summer,' another echoed. 'The Pucci Woman Is Taking Over My Summer Moodboard,' British Vogue stated. The brand, founded by Marchese Emilio Pucci di Barsento in 1947 and known for its swirling, sunlight-on-the-Med prints and Côte d'Azur colors, is now located not just in the stable of the luxury group LVMH but also in the resort of the mind. It has captured both the imagination of the influencer sphere, where buzz can act as a sort of mirage, and the retail moment. 'Pucci is currently our No. 1 resort brand, with sales more than doubling year-on-year,' said Heather Kaminsky, the chief executive of Net-a-Porter. This is true among customers in the United States and Europe, she said, 'especially our frequently traveling E.I.P.s' (extremely important people). A spokesman for Mytheresa, which introduced a Pucci capsule collection in April, said 'basically everything is a best seller.' Want all of The Times? Subscribe.
Yahoo
06-04-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Quotes of the Week: Elsbeth, Grey's, White Lotus, The Rookie and More
Short King Spring is in full swing, but there's nothing slight about our latest Quotes of the Week column. In the list below — which features our picks for TV's most memorable sound bites of the past seven days — you'll find more than a dozen shows represented, including Ghosts, The White Lotus, The Cleaning Lady, FBI, The Voice, Elsbeth, Happy Face and more. More from TVLine Quotes of the Week: I May Destroy You, Greenleaf, Yellowstone and More Quotes of the Week: Stargirl, Blindspot, Penny Dreadful, S.H.I.E.L.D. and More Quotes of the Week: The Twilight Zone, Search Party, Yellowstone and More Also featured in this week's roundup: The Rookie falls for an April Fools' prank, Yellowjackets demands answers to important questions and The Real Housewives of Atlanta's Shamea Morton gets playful in a confessional. Plus, we've got double doses of Grey's Anatomy and Abbott Elementary. Scroll through the list below to see all of our picks for the week, then hit the comments and tell us if we missed any of your faves! (With contributions from Vlada Gelman, Rebecca Luther, Charlie Mason, Matt Webb Mitovich, Dave Nemetz and Kimberly Roots) 'Did Mulder and Scully get together?!' Van (Liv Hewson) asks the truly important questions about what's happened in the world while the girls have been stranded in the woods 'What have you directed, may I ask?' 'Uh, what haven't I directed, you know what I mean? Mostly action films. The Enforcer. The Executor. The Notary. That was a trilogy.' The fake movies Frank (Sam Rockwell) lists off for Sritala (Lek Patravadi) sound pretty good, actually 'Hey, I made some changes to the North Pole rom-com script based on your earlier thoughts. After the man turns into a reindeer at the top of the second act —' 'Honey, honey, listen to me, OK? Just call it Polar Opposites, OK? And make sure the guy gets the girl.' Sam (Rose McIver) gets some advice from 1940s screenwriter Joan (Taylor Ortega) about her Christmas movie (which we would totally watch) 'I was a smooth criminal for tellin' her she looked like LaToya Jackson. Now how the hell am I gonna moonwalk my way outta this?' Shamea admits calling out Angela's ''99 nose' was not cool 'You can take the patient in bed 2. He's been constipated for weeks.' '[Under her breath] How long have you been constipated?' Thony (Élodie Yung) assesses her prickly new attending, Dr. Dupont (Daniel Bonjour) 'You two have fun. What happens in Vegas stays in Vegas.' 'We're going to Oakland.' Bailey (Chandra Wilson) isn't impressed by the sendoff Owen (Kevin McKidd) gives her and Teddy 'I'll buy you a drink when you and Griffith break up. [Beat] So… never.' Simone's glare quickly convinces Jules (Adelaide Kane) to amend her offer to Lucas 'Is it weird I gave her Adam's number?' Michael Bublé cracks wise after giving eliminated contestant Simone Marijic his number… or maybe Adam Levine's 'One, two, three, four tote bags. Why are you carrying around so much? Are you worried you're not enough?' 'People usually say I'm too much.' Decluttering expert Freya (Mary-Louise Parker) assesses Elsbeth's (Carrie Preston) plethora of handbags 'What?' 'Nothing! It's just… I noticed your hand touch Tim's at roll call.' 'Is that how you think sex works?' Celina (Lisseth Chavez) falls hook, line and sinker for Lucy (Melissa O'Neil) and Tim's April Fool's Day 'prank' ''Ben Dover'…?' 'Yes, sir. Dover is a real person with an unfortunate name.' Angela (Alyssa Diaz) and Nyla bring Grey (Richard T. Jones) up to speed on their case 'He's a complex, emotional being.' 'Who killed eight women.' 'Nine.' Gillian (Jenn Lyon) has no illusions about Mel's (Annaleigh Ashford) serial-killer dad, who happens to be her boyfriend 'I do have to say, if you are considering a career as an eco-terrorist, you can pull off the look.' 'Watch it.' OA (Zeeko Zaki) pokes fun at… whatever is going on there with Maggie's (Missy Peregrym) undercover hair 'It is a highly suggested donation, OK, and by 'highly suggested,' I mean you hold that tip jar right up into their face until it gets uncomfortable… which also works with divorce papers, too.' Melissa (Lisa Ann Walter) preps Jacob for the school's car wash fundraiser 'I know I prayed for a good turnout, but these hands were made for praying, not for spraying.' Barbara (Sheryl Lee Ralph) isn't about to get wet at the school's car wash fundraiser '[Mickey] is really good at dealing with bad guys.' 'Never let them see you sweat, you know. You gotta stay calm.' 'Well, that's not gonna happen with this one.' Vince (Billy Burke) meant it with love, Sharon! 'It's a classic pop star reinvention cycle. They all have 'eras' now.' 'Oh, like how Johnny Cougar became John Cougar, and then John Cougar Mellencamp becomes Mellencamp, and then back to John Mellencamp. Yeah? '[DeShawn, sarcastically] Yeah, just like that.' J.D. (Todd Lasance) almost gets it Best of TVLine Weirdest TV Crossovers: Always Sunny Meets Abbott, Family Guy vs. Simpsons, Nine-Nine Recruits New Girl and More ER Turns 30: See the Original County General Crew, Then and Now The Best Streaming Services in 2024: Disney+, Hulu, Max and More