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Fashion Value Chain
a day ago
- Business
- Fashion Value Chain
Reviving Indian Handlooms: Market Trends, Export Potential, and the Global Consumer Shift Towards Ethical Fashion
Milind Khangan, Marketing Manager, Vertex Market Research India Handloom Industry: Celebrating a Legacy at Crossroads India's handloom industry can be described as one of the oldest textile traditions still in existence. It goes beyond just cultural symbolism. It acts as an economic engine that supports millions of livelihoods, empowers rural artisans, and encourages sustainable craftsmanship. As we celebrate National Handloom Day on 7th August, we should pay attention to this lively but often neglected industry. In today's fashion market, which is shaped by environmental concerns and sustainable shopping habits, the handloom industry is not only preserving tradition but also adapting to changing market demands. The Indian handloom industry employs over 3.5 million weavers and other related workers. It is the second-largest source of rural jobs in the country, after agriculture. This industry makes nearly 15% of India's total fabric output. It also produces more than 70% of the world's handwoven cloth. The sector has about 70% women workers, which reflects the contribution that the sector plays in ensuring rural growth and inclusiveness. Also discussed are clusters including Varanasi (Uttar Pradesh), Bhagalpur (Bihar), Chanderi (Madhya Pradesh), Pochampally (Telangana), and Kannur (Kerala), which are world famous for their intricate weaving patterns and craftsmanship. Though socially and economically significant, Indian handloom exports are low at US$140 million in 2024 as compared to US$350 million in 2019. The total exports of cotton yarn, fabrics, finished textile articles, and handloom products, among others, were valued at around US$10 billion in 2024. This indicates there is plenty of untapped value to be created in foreign markets. Market Trends Reshaping the Handloom Industry Rise of Conscious Consumerism and Sustainable Fashion There is a growing demand for sustainable and ethically made textile products worldwide, particularly in North America, Europe, and East Asia. Indian handlooms produced with organic fibres and natural dyes and minimal carbon inputs are gaining popularity among green product consumers. Markings such as the Handloom Mark, Silk Mark, and GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) are also picking up steam. Particularly for Gen Z and millennials who desire to know the origin of products and the effects they have on the environment. Digital D2C Boom and Platform-Led Access Online platforms such as GoCoop, Okhai, Jaypore, and Amazon Karigar enabled weavers to reach consumers directly. The Indian online handloom industry saw significant expansion, spurred mostly by social commerce growth, influencer campaigns, and widening cross-border e-commerce channels. Many emerging D2C brands are using Instagram and Etsy to reach niche buyers who value authenticity, craftsmanship, and limited-edition collections. Urban Premiumization and Designer Integration India's urban luxury market is experiencing a revival of handloom as 'fashion-forward artisanal couture.' Designers are adding traditional weaving to high-fashion outfits, creating a premium identity for handlooms. This shift has increased domestic visibility and helped Indian textiles find a place in global luxury markets. Global Demand and Export Growth Potential As per Vertex Market Research, India's handloom exports in 2024 stood at around US$140 million, falling from US$350 million in 2019, with key markets including: United States (30%) United Kingdom (6%) United Arab Emirates (11%) Spain (7%) France (5%) Product categories such as fashion fabrics, bed linens, bedsheets, cushion covers, drapes, kitchen linen, western dresses, decorative furnishings, rug durries, mats, mattings, carpets, rugs, and other handloom items make up most export volumes. There is a noticeable interest in bamboo-cotton blends, wool-linen mixes, and heritage designs within European boutique collections and Japan's ethical retail stores. The upcoming Free Trade Agreements are expected to improve market access by lowering tariffs, increasing product certifications, and making it easier to source handloom goods across borders. Even with positive macro trends, India's handloom industry continues to grapple with enduring structural issues. Production is still fragmented, with the majority of weavers in small units who have limited exposure to quality raw materials and advanced equipment. Successive generations are increasingly disengaged, discouraged by poor incomes and traditional methods, which results in a slow decline in traditional skills. Financial inclusion is low, with minimal weavers having access to formal credit or MSME finance. Design innovation is also absent, with the majority of artisans being isolated from emerging consumer trends, lowering competitiveness both in the city and export markets. Weak digital infrastructure and low digital literacy in weaving clusters also remain in the way of the sector's integration into e-commerce and online marketplaces. Grassroots Innovation and Impact Models Grassroots innovations are transforming India's handloom sector. They do this by using collaborative, technology-based, and market-driven methods. The rise of Producer Companies and Self-Help Groups (SHGs) has significantly empowered weaver communities. These groups have improved access to raw materials, reduced reliance on middlemen, and allowed direct communication with buyers. Dastkar Andhra is one such model case, which supports cooperatives with equitable pricing, design contributions, and skill enhancement. Likewise, micro-enterprises such as Radhakanta Handloom in Odisha, facilitated by Swakalpa and Flipkart Samarth, have effectively turned traditional local artisans into sustainable micro-entrepreneurs with scalable business models. Designer-artisan partnerships are becoming popular. By merging modern design with traditional craftsmanship, these collaborations boost product value and create steady income for weavers. Social enterprises such as Bunavat and Anuprerna have built sustainable, transparent supply chains that offer fair pay, timely payments, and access to online marketplaces. Selective technology uptake is also accelerating the impact. While basic weaving is manually performed, computer programs for design, stock, and promotion are raising efficiency. Blockchain platforms such as Kosha AI are helping to authenticate original handloom products, in opposition to the growing menace of counterfeit goods. The Road Ahead: Strategic Recommendations for Revitalising Indian Handlooms Unlocking the true potential of India's handloom industry requires a focused approach. This approach must centre on modernisation, digital inclusion, skill improvement, and policy implementation. Upgrading infrastructure through cluster modernisation, which includes setting up dyeing units, CAD laboratories, and e-commerce centres under the Mega Cluster Scheme, will improve productivity and market readiness. At the same time, digital empowerment through subsidised smartphones, e-commerce training, and better platform access can significantly increase weavers' outreach. Skill gap needs to be bridged by greater interaction between clusters of weavers and institutions such as NIFT and international design schools. The collaboration can bring in modern aesthetics and market-oriented design thinking. Blockchain and QR-code systems can enhance supply chain integrity, guaranteeing authenticity and honest remuneration. Extension of RoDTEP coverage and conforming with international standards of exports will also enhance international competitiveness. Policy implementation needs to be tightened, especially with the successful enforcement of the Handlooms (Reservation of Articles for Production) Act, 1985. This will help check powerloom imitations and spurious goods. Moreover, protecting traditional designs with formal IP protection mechanisms will save cultural heritage and ensure artisan rights. Additional expansion of access to online markets is needed. Moving more weavers into e-commerce platforms, along with training in product photography, storytelling, and branding, will get them noticed. International trade promotion, branding 'India Handloom' and Handloom Mark abroad, will foster global consumer trust. Additional Urban Haats and direct-to-consumer models enabling can connect artisans further with consumers. Skill upgradation, design creativity, and artisan welfare require investment. Initiatives such as the Hathkargha Samvardhan Sahayata (HSS) and Weaver MUDRA Scheme need increased reach and publicity so that more artisan communities adopt them. Offering decent remuneration, social security via HWCWS, and workplace safety will attract youth to pursue the craft. Handloom Hackathon 2025-like programs foster innovation in design and sustainability. Finally, bringing together weaver-controlled collectives and producer firms is important to address sector fragmentation. These systems improve negotiating power, support bulk purchasing, and ease market entry. Ongoing government and NGO support in mentoring, training, and funding will be vital for building strong, independent handloom enterprises.
Time of India
6 days ago
- Lifestyle
- Time of India
The ultimate festive guide to genuine Indian weaves
Rekha's love affair with Kanjeevaram is widely known Chanderi (Madhya Pradesh) Is it authentic? Karisma Kapoor in a teal green Chanderi weave Look for Silk Mark and traditional motifs like mehendi lagey hath, Ashrafi buti and chatai border n Burn test: pure silk threads turns to ash; polyester curls n One of the most popular handloom Chanderi blends is made of silk warp, cotton weft (Sico) Powerlooms banned in Chanderi town, so it has to be handwoven n Chanderi saris are GI‑tagged Expert speak: Md Iqbal, a Chanderi sari manufacturer from Chanderi says, 'Chanderi has been woven here for over 80 years. The burn test tells the truth.' Ajrakh (Gujarat) Is it authentic? Look for subtle variations in natural dye tones n Block printed edges may be slightly misaligned – a proof of hand printing n Usually printed on cotton, silk, mashru, modal and linen n Traditional hues include indigo, turmeric yellow, and alizarin, a natural dye found in the roots of the madder plant n GI-tag certified Machine-printed saris will have perfectly symmetrical design Expert speak: 'In hand-block printing, you'll see slight gaps between blocks and inconsistency in the dye,' says Hardik Vadilal Mehta, an Ajrakh artisan from Bhuj. Kanjeevaram (Tamil Nadu) Is it authentic? Made from pure mulberry silk with minimum 4-ply threads n Saris feel heavy and smooth, not slippery Zari types: tested zari, silk fast zari, and real gold zari n Real Kanjeevaram saris start from ₹5,000 and can go up to lakhs n Silk Mark is essential n Kanjeevaram saris are GI-tagged too Expert speak: Ashish Kumar, a Kanjeevaram dealer from Bangalore says, 'Look for the Silk Mark and four-ply or higher thread count when shopping for Kanjeevaram.' by Taboola by Taboola Sponsored Links Sponsored Links Promoted Links Promoted Links You May Like These Are The Most Beautiful Women In The World Undo Malaika Arora stuns in Ikat Pochampally Ikat (Telengana and Andhra Pradesh) Is it authentic? True Ikat is handwoven and hand-dyed n Look for slight irregularities in the weaving n Made from mulberry silk n Traditional designs are Narikunj and Patanpatola n Starts at ₹7,000+ n It is GI-tagged Expert speak: Kashi Viswanadh, a Ikat manufacturer from Hyderabad says, 'In single ikat, either the warp or the weft is dyed, while in double ikat, both the warp & weft are dyed.' Bomkai (Odisha) Is it authentic? Silk versions feel rich to touch while polyester variations are slippery and shiny n Authentic Bomkai weaves have contrast-coloured borders n The butas are made from thicker thread, hence have a raised texture Handloom Bomkai saris start at ₹9,000 Look for GI-tag marks and Silk Marks Expert speak: 'You can tell by touch. Authentic Bomkai butis have a raised texture. One can tell if its silk or polyester by looking at it minutely,' says Radhesham Meher, a Bomkai manufacturer from Bhubaneswar. Banarasi (UP) Is it authentic? Authentic Banarasi silk is heavier and cooler to the touch n Look for the GI tag and Silk Mark n Types of zari used: plastic (low-end), flora (art zari, not pure), gauti (premium range zari) and gold zari (gilded zari, used only in custom-made orders) Expert speak: Amit Khanna, a Banarasi manufacturer from Varanasi says, 'Even a ₹10,000 sari can be real if it has a Silk Mark. Pull a thread and burn it - ash means real silk and zari.' Alia Bhatt looks pristine in a white Jamdani Jamdani (West Bengal) Is it authentic? Uneven threads on the reverse side confirm it's handwoven Machine-made versions are perfectly uniform and multicoloured n Cotton jamdanis have 84, 92 or 100 thread counts n Muslin jamdanis are costlier; fake versions called 'bumper' are more slippery and transparent Expert speak: Pratik Basak, a Jamdani wholesaler from Kolkata says, 'Dhakai Jamdani is GI‑tagged in Bangladesh (2016), but WB Jamdani is still awaiting GI registration.' Technical terms to know: Tana-bana: Tana-bana means the warp and weft – the crisscrossed threads that form the structure and soul of a woven fabric Thread count: Thread count refers to the number of threads woven into one square inch of fabric. Higher thread count means finer, detailed and delicate weaving What does 'ply' mean in silk? A'Ply' refers to the number of filaments twisted together to form a stronger strand of silk yarn. 2-ply, 4-ply, and 6-ply silk refer to the number of threads twisted together – higher ply means thicker and more luxurious fabric. 8-ply and even 10-ply silk also exist. Always look for the Silk Mark issued by the Silk Board of India to certify purity of silk.
News18
6 days ago
- Business
- News18
World Handloom Day 2025: Woven in Legacy, Draped in Relevance: The Handloom Revival
On World Handloom Day, we celebrate India's textile legacy reimagined for the modern age through innovation, craftsmanship, and cultural pride. There's something quietly poetic about a handloom textile. The rhythm of the loom. The calloused fingers that dance over warp and weft. The soft rustle of fabric that carries within it stories of ancestry, artistry, and identity. On World Handloom Day 2025, we pause to reflect on this enduring craft not as a relic of the past, but as a living, breathing expression of India's cultural renaissance. Once tucked away in heirloom trunks or reserved for festivals, handlooms are now finding their place in everyday wardrobes not out of nostalgia, but out of choice. A choice that blends tradition with individualism, heritage with style. And at the centre of this powerful shift is a collective revival, one led by designers, artisans, and a growing tribe of conscious consumers. 'The story of handloom in India is one of quiet revival and powerful evolution," says Ambuj Narayan, CEO, Taneira, the Tata-backed brand that has emerged as a custodian of India's textile traditions. 'From being perceived as occasion wear or a symbol of nostalgia, it has today evolved into a meaningful expression of everyday style and cultural pride." Taneira's work goes beyond curating saris. It is a movement in itself. Through its Weavershala initiative, the brand collaborates closely with weaving clusters across the country, offering design and skill-building support to ensure the ecosystem thrives. Their commitment extends to transparency and traceability with every garment backed by certifications such as the Handloom Mark, Silk Mark, Zari Certification, and Khadi and Pashmina Certificates. In a landmark move, Taneira also became one of the early adopters of GI tagging for iconic weaving clusters starting with Banarasi, Chanderi, and Maheshwari safeguarding their geographical identity and ensuring that due credit reaches the communities that carry these legacies forward. 'It's incredibly heartening to see more women choosing handloom for what it truly represents authenticity, craftsmanship, and a deep connection to our roots," adds Narayan. It's this very philosophy that also informs the work of Asha Gautam, a luxury label that has championed Indian textiles for over 25 years. To them, handloom is not just a material it is a language. One that they speak fluently, whether in the fluid grace of a Paithani dupatta or the structured elegance of a brocade blazer. 'For us, working with handloom is more than design it is a responsibility toward sustaining heritage crafts. Paithani, Double Ikat, and Banarasi are masterpieces of Indian weaving, and our role is to ensure these art forms remain relevant for future generations while respecting the hands that create them," says Gautam Gupta, Designer and Creative Director, Asha Gautam. Their design vision blends legacy with experimentation. From Banarasi, Patola, and Bandhani to Kanjivaram and Double Ikat, their collections reimagine classic weaves through inventive silhouettes creating hybrid styles that resonate with the modern Indian aesthetic. 'We don't just preserve, we reimagine," the brand affirms. 'Our design philosophy blends craftsmanship with creativity through appliqué, embroidery, and mixed techniques, we breathe new life into traditional weaves, making them relevant for today and resilient for tomorrow." This year, Asha Gautam marks Handloom Day with a special curation of lehengas and dupattas timeless yet contemporary, rooted yet radical. Each piece becomes a bridge between generations, proving that heritage, when nurtured with imagination, can become a force of modern elegance. Fueling this revival is a new generation of consumers aware, intentional, and value-driven. They are not just buying garments; they are investing in stories, livelihoods, and a slower, more meaningful approach to fashion. Their preferences are shaping a new future — one where sustainability and culture coexist. Handloom, in that sense, is no longer just a product. It is a philosophy. A return to roots. A celebration of human hands in a machine-led world. So today, as we celebrate World Handloom Day, let's honour the ones behind the loom, the weavers who spin stories into every thread, the artisans who carry generations of wisdom in their fingertips, and the visionaries who believe that craft is the future of fashion. Because in every handloom textile lies more than a pattern, there lies a pulse. One that beats with identity, resilience, and grace. And that, truly, is India woven. view comments First Published: Disclaimer: Comments reflect users' views, not News18's. Please keep discussions respectful and constructive. Abusive, defamatory, or illegal comments will be removed. News18 may disable any comment at its discretion. By posting, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy.
India Today
22-04-2025
- General
- India Today
5 Easy Ways to Identify Authentic Kanjivaram Silk
5 Easy Ways to Identify Authentic Kanjivaram Silk By Smarica Pant Kanjivaram silk is one of India's finest weaves. But with so many copies in the market, knowing what's real is important. Let us guide you! Rub the fabric gently. Real Kanjivaram silk feels smooth yet crisp to the touch. Fake ones often feel too soft, slippery, or synthetic. 1. Check the Silk Texture Original Kanjivaram sarees use pure silver or gold zari threads. In fakes, the zari is usually plastic or dull-colored threads. 2. Look at the Zari Work Burn a loose silk thread carefully. Real silk smells like burnt hair and turns to ash. Fake silk smells like plastic and melts into a lump. 3. Burn Test (Only if you can spare a tiny thread!) Real Kanjivaram sarees are woven by joining body and border separately. If you see fine, zig-zag lines where body meets border, it's authentic. 4. Observe the Weaving Technique Original Kanjivaram sarees often carry a 'Silk Mark' certification. This mark proves it's made from 100% pure natural silk. 5. Always Check the Silk Mark Label
