Latest news with #SimonRogan
The Independent
04-07-2025
- The Independent
How much a ride on the UK's new luxury sleeper train will cost you
Belmond, known for its Royal Scotsman, is launching the Britannic Explorer, a new luxury sleeper train for England and Wales. The Britannic Explorer is set to make its maiden journey on 21 July, offering three-night itineraries from London to Cornwall, the Lake District, and Wales. The train features 18 luxury suites, fine dining by multi-Michelin-starred chef Simon Rogan, an onboard spa, and a botanically-inspired bar. Passengers can enjoy optional guided excursions at each destination, including coastal activities in Cornwall, wild swimming in the Lake District, and lavender farm visits in Wales. A trip on the Britannic Explorer starts from £11,000 for a double cabin, which includes the three-night itinerary, excursions, meals, and alcoholic beverages.
The Independent
04-07-2025
- The Independent
Inside the Britannic Explorer: New luxury sleeper train coming to England and Wales in July
The first luxury sleeper train in England and Wales is set to make its maiden journey later this month as it rolls out of London and into the British countryside. Known for its popular luxury sleeper train in the Scottish Highlands, the Royal Scotsman, hospitality operator Belmond has now unveiled a new sleeper that will journey through England and Wales: the Britannic Explorer. The new luxury train, complete with fine dining cars, 18 sleeper cabin suites and spa treatments onboard, is set to make its first journey on 21 July, bringing luxury sleeper experiences to England and Wales. Within its cabins are three grand suites and 15 standard suites, where guests can spend three nights travelling from the capital to three different locations, Cornwall, the Lake District and Wales, on journeys aimed at paying homage to the British tradition of touring and celebrating the art of slow travel. Passengers on the Britannic Explorer can take optional off-train guided excursions to immerse themselves in each destination's natural landscapes, cultural offerings and history. This includes coastal sailing and yoga sessions by the sea in Cornwall, wild swimming in the Lake District, and lavender farm visits and wood-fired saunas in Wales. On board guests will indulge in British gastronomy designed by multi-Michelin-starred chef Simon Rogan as the hills roll by. Rogan's fine dining menu will feature locally sourced ingredients, in line with his British farm-to-fork movement, with seasonal menus rotating across the three routes. Speaking about the collaboration with the luxury sleeper, Rogan said last year: 'I am very excited to bring this approach to the launch of the Britannic Explorer, where each plate will reflect Britain's diverse landscapes. 'I hope every passenger not only enjoys the flavours but also feels a connection between the dishes and the journey, making their time on board truly memorable.' Passengers will also have access to the train's botanically-inspired bar in their observation car for a cocktail or a craft beer, or perhaps relax while receiving a treatment or two in the train's onboard spa room. The luxury train's all-British experience extends into the interiors of the train, with designs and colour palettes taking inspiration from the countryside and coastlines created through bespoke commissions from leading designers and artists. Gary Franklin, vice president of trains and cruises at Belmond, said: "I am incredibly proud to launch this revolutionary new train, which further enhances Belmond's global portfolio of market-leading luxury rail experiences. 'The Britannic Explorer offers something truly unique; an opportunity to discover the rugged Cornish coastline to Snowdonia's untamed National Park and the vast expanses of the Lake District like never before. 'We are especially delighted to welcome the esteemed Chef Simon Rogan to helm the culinary direction. His vision brings a gastronomic journey that complements the train's spirit of adventure, celebrating British produce and highlighting the finest local specialities along the route.' A trip aboard the Britannic Explorer in a double cabin starts from £11,000, including a three-night itinerary, excursions, meals, wine and other alcoholic beverages on board.
Sydney Morning Herald
27-06-2025
- Sydney Morning Herald
Michelin meals on trains, in-flight sleeping pod rentals: Fancy travel's next stops
This story is part of the June 28 edition of Good Weekend. See all 21 stories. Let the good times roll Love the thought of rolling through Great Britain's bucolic beauty without the petrol stops? Belmond's Britannic Explorer will take luxury on British tracks to the next level when it launches in July with 18 sleeper suites. The train will offer three-night itineraries across three destinations – Cornwall, the Lake District and Wales. Expect lots of tea, and modern British cuisine overseen by Michelin-starred chef Simon Rogan. Three nights all-inclusive starts from £11,000 ($22,900) per person, based on twin-share accommodation. If you want the Rolls-Royce of trains, go for the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express – another one from Belmond. Its new Paris-to-Tuscany route launched in May, departing Paris Gare d'Austerlitz to arrive in Castello di Casole three nights later. It's priced from £9350 per person. This train also recently unveiled the L'Observatoire – a luxury sleeper carriage with interiors by artist JR – priced from, wait for it, £80,000 ($167,000) a night for double occupancy. Closer to home, in April next year, Journey Beyond will release its 'next-level platinum' cabin class on select trains. The Aurora and Australis suites (which you can find on The Ghan and the Indian Pacific) will be the Adelaide-based brand's most luxurious offering yet. The Aurora Suite is priced from $7990 per person ($11,890 per person for the slightly larger Australis Suite) on the two-night, three-day Adelaide-to-Darwin trip aboard The Ghan in November 2026. Take me to the river Along with expeditions, river cruising is the fastest-growing sector in the cruising category. Australian Pacific Touring started out doing local bus tours before branching out into overseas cruises. In April this year, APT launched Solara, followed by Ostara in June. The near-identical ships have 77 suites across three cabin categories, and hold 154 passengers and 60 crew. The sweet spot is the Balcony Suites, offering full-length, electric slide-down windows opening onto a French-style deck. Choosing APT means you'll never have to explain a flat white, or ask for the Vegemite while sailing on the Rhine, the Main or the Danube. An eight-day cruise from Munich to Amsterdam starts from $7645 per person in a Balcony Suite. Viking River Cruises began in 1997 with just four river ships; today, it's a juggernaut with about 80, mainly in Europe but also on the Mississippi and the Mekong. But the most immediate growth is scheduled for Portugal – with ships planned for the Douro River – and Egypt, where Viking plans to have 10 ships on the Nile by the close of 2026. These include Thoth, from October this year, hot on the heels of Amun, which is set to debut in September. Both cater for 82 guests and 48 crew. Our value pick is the 22-square-metre Veranda Stateroom, where, for $14,795 per person, you can book the 12-day 'Pharaohs & Pyramids' cruise. Loading Talking of next-generation river ships, Tauck is preparing to debut MS Serene in early 2026. The ship holds 124 guests and 41 crew, and will focus on the River Seine. A sibling, the slightly longer MS Lumière (for 130 guests and 44 crew), will be released at the same time. Both ships feature a large sundeck with a pool and bar area, plus The Retreat – a fitness centre, massage room and lounge area encased by floor-to-ceiling windows. An 11-day Bordeaux, Paris and The Seine cruise sailing in 2026 is priced from $10,990 per person on MS Serene. The pointy end Cathay Pacific became one of the few airlines to offer the privacy of a sliding door on its airline's business-class seats from late last year. While it's more of a sliding screen (you can see over the top), it still creates a 'cocoon in the sky' vibe. Each of Cathay's refurbished B777-300ERs has 45 business- class Aria Suites in a 1-2-1 configuration, with all-aisle access. The seat is 53.3 centimetres wide, with a bed length of 190.5 centimetres when it reclines to fully flat. But it's the ultra-high-definition screen that has the biggest 'wow' factor. At a whopping 60.9 centimetres, it's perfect for film buffs. The Aria Suites are only on Cathay's refitted 777s and to date, only a handful have been refreshed. Cathay flies daily between Hong Kong and Sydney, London and Beijing. Business class is always expensive, but Webjet data for 2024 shows the airline was one of the most competitively priced options. Emirates has refitted 19 of its 120 B777-300ERs from nose to tail. Earlier this year, it began flying its refurbished four-class 777s between Dubai and Melbourne, putting its new 'Game Changer' first-class suites, with fully enclosed floor-to-ceiling sliding doors, on an Australian route. There are three flights daily between Melbourne and Dubai: two on refurbished A380s, and one on the refurbished 777 (flight number EK405). The 42 business-class seats are set out as 1-2-1, and are 52.6 centimetres wide, stretching to 199.6 centimetres when flat, and there's a 58.4-centimetre entertainment screen. Air New Zealand unveiled its first refurbished 787-9 Dreamliner last month and it flies between Auckland and Brisbane, Rarotonga, Vancouver and San Francisco. The airline has gone from having among the worst business-class seats to an acclaimed product across two pointy-end options – Business Premier (22 seats) and Business Premier Luxe (four seats) that come with sliding privacy doors. Seats in both areas are 54 centimetres wide, reclining to 203 centimetres when flat. An option to look out for 2026 is Air NZ's innovative SkyNest, which will only be available for economy passengers. SkyNest is the airline's bunk-bed-style sleeping pod, where you can book a four-hour session to lie down for considerably less than you'd pay for a business-class seat.
The Age
27-06-2025
- The Age
Michelin meals on trains, in-flight sleeping pod rentals: Fancy travel's next stops
This story is part of the June 28 edition of Good Weekend. See all 21 stories. Let the good times roll Love the thought of rolling through Great Britain's bucolic beauty without the petrol stops? Belmond's Britannic Explorer will take luxury on British tracks to the next level when it launches in July with 18 sleeper suites. The train will offer three-night itineraries across three destinations – Cornwall, the Lake District and Wales. Expect lots of tea, and modern British cuisine overseen by Michelin-starred chef Simon Rogan. Three nights all-inclusive starts from £11,000 ($22,900) per person, based on twin-share accommodation. If you want the Rolls-Royce of trains, go for the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express – another one from Belmond. Its new Paris-to-Tuscany route launched in May, departing Paris Gare d'Austerlitz to arrive in Castello di Casole three nights later. It's priced from £9350 per person. This train also recently unveiled the L'Observatoire – a luxury sleeper carriage with interiors by artist JR – priced from, wait for it, £80,000 ($167,000) a night for double occupancy. Closer to home, in April next year, Journey Beyond will release its 'next-level platinum' cabin class on select trains. The Aurora and Australis suites (which you can find on The Ghan and the Indian Pacific) will be the Adelaide-based brand's most luxurious offering yet. The Aurora Suite is priced from $7990 per person ($11,890 per person for the slightly larger Australis Suite) on the two-night, three-day Adelaide-to-Darwin trip aboard The Ghan in November 2026. Take me to the river Along with expeditions, river cruising is the fastest-growing sector in the cruising category. Australian Pacific Touring started out doing local bus tours before branching out into overseas cruises. In April this year, APT launched Solara, followed by Ostara in June. The near-identical ships have 77 suites across three cabin categories, and hold 154 passengers and 60 crew. The sweet spot is the Balcony Suites, offering full-length, electric slide-down windows opening onto a French-style deck. Choosing APT means you'll never have to explain a flat white, or ask for the Vegemite while sailing on the Rhine, the Main or the Danube. An eight-day cruise from Munich to Amsterdam starts from $7645 per person in a Balcony Suite. Viking River Cruises began in 1997 with just four river ships; today, it's a juggernaut with about 80, mainly in Europe but also on the Mississippi and the Mekong. But the most immediate growth is scheduled for Portugal – with ships planned for the Douro River – and Egypt, where Viking plans to have 10 ships on the Nile by the close of 2026. These include Thoth, from October this year, hot on the heels of Amun, which is set to debut in September. Both cater for 82 guests and 48 crew. Our value pick is the 22-square-metre Veranda Stateroom, where, for $14,795 per person, you can book the 12-day 'Pharaohs & Pyramids' cruise. Loading Talking of next-generation river ships, Tauck is preparing to debut MS Serene in early 2026. The ship holds 124 guests and 41 crew, and will focus on the River Seine. A sibling, the slightly longer MS Lumière (for 130 guests and 44 crew), will be released at the same time. Both ships feature a large sundeck with a pool and bar area, plus The Retreat – a fitness centre, massage room and lounge area encased by floor-to-ceiling windows. An 11-day Bordeaux, Paris and The Seine cruise sailing in 2026 is priced from $10,990 per person on MS Serene. The pointy end Cathay Pacific became one of the few airlines to offer the privacy of a sliding door on its airline's business-class seats from late last year. While it's more of a sliding screen (you can see over the top), it still creates a 'cocoon in the sky' vibe. Each of Cathay's refurbished B777-300ERs has 45 business- class Aria Suites in a 1-2-1 configuration, with all-aisle access. The seat is 53.3 centimetres wide, with a bed length of 190.5 centimetres when it reclines to fully flat. But it's the ultra-high-definition screen that has the biggest 'wow' factor. At a whopping 60.9 centimetres, it's perfect for film buffs. The Aria Suites are only on Cathay's refitted 777s and to date, only a handful have been refreshed. Cathay flies daily between Hong Kong and Sydney, London and Beijing. Business class is always expensive, but Webjet data for 2024 shows the airline was one of the most competitively priced options. Emirates has refitted 19 of its 120 B777-300ERs from nose to tail. Earlier this year, it began flying its refurbished four-class 777s between Dubai and Melbourne, putting its new 'Game Changer' first-class suites, with fully enclosed floor-to-ceiling sliding doors, on an Australian route. There are three flights daily between Melbourne and Dubai: two on refurbished A380s, and one on the refurbished 777 (flight number EK405). The 42 business-class seats are set out as 1-2-1, and are 52.6 centimetres wide, stretching to 199.6 centimetres when flat, and there's a 58.4-centimetre entertainment screen. Air New Zealand unveiled its first refurbished 787-9 Dreamliner last month and it flies between Auckland and Brisbane, Rarotonga, Vancouver and San Francisco. The airline has gone from having among the worst business-class seats to an acclaimed product across two pointy-end options – Business Premier (22 seats) and Business Premier Luxe (four seats) that come with sliding privacy doors. Seats in both areas are 54 centimetres wide, reclining to 203 centimetres when flat. An option to look out for 2026 is Air NZ's innovative SkyNest, which will only be available for economy passengers. SkyNest is the airline's bunk-bed-style sleeping pod, where you can book a four-hour session to lie down for considerably less than you'd pay for a business-class seat.
The Independent
23-06-2025
- Entertainment
- The Independent
Aulis vs Gorse: When does a Michelin star really earn its keep?
I started this column with one question: when is it really worth it? Restaurants have never been shy about separating you from your money, and lately it feels like they'd charge for air if they could get away with it. Some meals, though, make you glad you handed over your card at the end. So I try them for you – the splashy openings, the whisper-quiet gems, the big-ego tasting menus and the surprise bargains – and report back so you can decide if your wallet (and your patience) can take it. This time, I did the unthinkable: I left London. Not that you'd know it from the evidence. The martini still arrived before anything else, the bump of roe was suspiciously large and I'm fairly sure someone was paid to whisper 'foraged' every fifteen minutes just to keep the Londoners calm. Some habits die hard. But the comparison was too tempting to resist. Two restaurants. Two chefs with big ideas about what 'local' should taste like. Both with one Michelin star pinned to their chests – but worlds apart in attitude, setting and cost. Aulis is a trick door to Cumbria hidden behind a nondescript Soho side street: the city version of Simon Rogan's Lake District empire, where everything is farm-first and the plates make you dream of damp hedgerows and soft sheep's wool. Gorse, meanwhile, sits on a sleepy corner in Cardiff 's Pontcanna, in what used to be a coffee shop – and, frankly, still looks like it might do an oat milk flat white if you asked nicely. Chef Tom Waters earned the capital's first ever Michelin star here, but there's no mood lighting, no moodiness, no fuss. There's just 22 seats, a team in Birkenstocks and a menu that reads like a sightseeing bus tour turned poetry recital: salt marsh lamb, Pembrokeshire crab, seaweed stock in your martini. One will cost you nearly £500 if you lean into the wine list (and you will, because you're only human). The other can be yours for £60 if you turn up at lunch and behave yourself. Both, in their own ways, make a compelling case for what 'fine dining' can be when it means something more than just fireworks and fillet steak. Sometimes you don't need bells and whistles – just a table, an idea and enough trust in the kitchen to let you taste the place for what it is. Aulis, London: Cumbria on the plate, Soho on the bill, but worth every penny Farm-first, fuss-free and so good you'll forgive the bill – proof there's still magic to be found in the capital's big-money tasting menus. Aulis London is the culinary equivalent of a trick door in a fantasy novel – you slip down a side street in Soho and suddenly find yourself somewhere else entirely: Cartmel, perhaps, or a damp hedgerow in Cumbria. You're still in Zone 1, but the air feels cleaner. The food certainly does. That's the whole point. Aulis is Simon Rogan's chef's table, a 12-seat offshoot of his Lake District HQ, where everything – the milk, the trout, the chlorophyll-sticky herbs – comes from 'Our Farm' up north. Provenance is the headline here. And if you spend any time in restaurants, you'll know that telling diners where their food comes from has become both obligatory and exhausting. Peas plucked at dawn. Lamb that did pilates. Trout with an origin story. It's enough to make you root for margarine. Aulis, London Good to know And yet, somehow, Aulis gets away with it. Maybe because Rogan more or less invented the genre – farm-first cooking as doctrine rather than decoration. It's as much part of his personality as marathons are to the over-30s. Maybe because when your plate is this dialled in, you want to know about Trevor who grew the carrots. Or maybe because the food is just… joyous. Canapés arrive first and, to be honest, could be the whole meal. One-bite marvels that prove restraint doesn't have to mean minimalism. Someone should open a restaurant with a one-bite tasting menu. Call it Nibble. Get a Michelin star. Retire. A tartlet of Chalk Stream trout with a sashimi-style sliver of its own flesh – both elegant, one rich and precise, the other cool and clean. A 'truffle pudding' that's mille-feuille by way of Greggs: buttery, starchy, savoury, layered and laced with truffle, not like a luxury tax but an aromatic thread. Galloway beef tartare, no sludge or theatrics, tucked into crisp little shot-sized shells. It's tartare without the usual drag: no egg yolk sludge, no chilli bravado. A chickpea wafer, topped with peas, kombu and fresh curds, is almost absurd in its economy. A square inch of cracker, yet somehow it contains spring, salt, sea and cream in a single snap. I could've stopped there and been thrilled. But this is Aulis, and there are more riffs to play. A scallop, formed into a firm little puck, sits in a pool of buttermilk, with roe that pops like savoury boba. A slab of hispi cabbage is charred and dressed with the kind of intensity usually reserved for ribeye, all smoke and crunch and savoury swagger. Turbot gets the Michelin-starred treatment, which is to say, it's poached and then politely drowned in smoked roe cream alongside asparagus. Do chefs believe there's an asparagus quota that must be filled before the season ends in June? I'm certain I've eaten an entire field of the stuff in the last week. No one – not even Rogan – can convince me we need this much of it. There's also lamb: just a single, blushing fillet, not the usual intimidating trio of loin, belly, confit shoulder or whatever other sacrificial offering is trendy this week, finished with fig leaf vinegar and wet garlic. No flourishes, no drama. Just food that remembers what it's for. The beetroot – salt-baked, pink and purple and blackened – looks like a painter's palette once scraped clean, with blackberries and smoked eel swirled like oil paint. I stared at the bowl longer than I care to admit. If I had wall space, I'd hang it. Dessert is usually when I start looking for an Uber, but the frozen Tunworth cheese, a L'Enclume classic that has not so much haunted me since I first tried it as gently followed me home, returns here with cobnuts and spelt grains. Clever, confident. Like Rogan is saying: 'I know you think you don't want cheese ice cream, but trust me.' And I do. Just not with asparagus. All of which makes the price feel… tolerable, somehow. Not cheap, obviously – nothing in this genre is. You'll part with £195 before drinks, or closer to £500 per person if you succumb to the full-whack wine pairing (yes, you can just order a bottle, or tap water, like a normal person). It's getting harder to recommend restaurants at this level with a straight face. Countless tasting menus in London hover around this price – most with the same farm-to-somewhere shtick, some with more fuss, others with bigger names – but few feel quite so worth it. I can't fully explain why Aulis still does. Maybe it's nostalgia; I peeked behind the curtain in Cartmel once, saw the farm, listened to the staff talk about turnips with the fervour of newly minted cult members and let myself be indoctrinated. Maybe it's because Rogan's flavour logic has never strayed into ego or gimmick. Maybe it's because, unlike so many other fine-dining flagships and spin-offs, there are no near-misses here. Every mouthful feels like it has a point to make. There are tasting menus you book because you want to say you've eaten the chef's name (Ducasse, Ramsay, Smyth). There are ones you go to to mark an occasion, or because your mum heard it was nice on TripAdvisor. And then there's Aulis – which is the tasting menu as show home for what this style of eating should be. It's as much about the cooking as it is the concept; a meal first, a flex second. It doesn't try to reinvent the wheel. It just smooths it out, oils it and rolls you somewhere quieter. It's expensive, yes. It's a bit wishy-washy in places, sure. But somehow they never make you feel like you're paying to be dazzled. You're just paying for good food, handled with care, which, in this city, is rarer than it should be. I still long for L'Enclume – the original, the farm, the whole damp Cumbrian dream of it – but Aulis London gets me most of the way there without leaving Zone 1. Which is, really, the magic of the place: that trick door at the edge of Soho that, for three hours or so, whisks you somewhere with softer edges and more hedgerows – then deposits you gently back on St Anne's Court, blinking at the noise, wondering if you dreamt it. 16 St Anne's Ct, London, W1F 0BF Open: Tuesday to Saturday for dinner from 7pm, Friday and Saturday lunch from 12.30pm. The experience usually takes around three and a half hours. Price: Tasting menu £195, wine pairings from £95 to £295, non-alcoholic pairing £79 (wines by the bottle available) Bookings released on the first Tuesday of each month for two months in advance. | 020 3948 9665 | aulislondon@ Gorse: The tiny Cardiff star showing Wales was always more punk rock than pastoral No techno, no tweezers, no £400 bill – just Welsh soul, smart cooking and a bill that won't make you weep. Meanwhile, over in Cardiff, a restaurant is doing the opposite – not transporting you somewhere else, but insisting you stay right where you are. Well, after a three-hour train and a brisk walk, obviously. Gorse, with chef Tom Waters at the helm, sits on a quiet corner in Pontcanna, in what used to be a coffee shop (and actually what still looks like a coffee shop). It's now home to the city's first-ever Michelin star, earned less than a year after opening. That fact alone should be enough to tell you how overdue this is. Wales has always had the good stuff, like the country's larder everyone borrows from but rarely celebrates properly until there's a feast to impress the neighbours. Salt marsh lamb, crab plucked from Pembrokeshire, seaweed thick on the tide. A national bounty hidden in plain sight. Still, there's no fanfare at Gorse. Just 22 seats, a small team in Birkenstock clogs who move with the calm efficiency of a ballet company, and a menu that doesn't so much perform as it does reflect. If Ynyshir is Welsh dining on a nightclub bender – techno, tweezers, £390 price tag – then Gorse is the morning after. Not in a bacon sandwich and Berocca kind of way, but in the sense of clarity that comes when the noise fades. Waters takes the raw materials of Welsh cooking – mutton, seaweed, oats – and does what Rogan does for Cumbria at Aulis: refines them, sharpens them, lets them speak for themselves. Transformed not beyond recognition, but into something cleaner and quietly sure of itself. If you're looking for theatre, you won't find it here. What you will find is an excellent martini that gives the capital a run for its money. Gorse's house version has been on since day one, a gentle wink that they knew exactly how to coax in Londoners, even this far west of Paddington. It's made with seaweed stock, Dà Mhìle gin and local vermouth, and it's as saline and elegant as the coastline it conjures. A coastal dirty martini, if you will, but one that washes your sins away instead of compounding them. The first thing you eat, or rather the second thing you drink, is a seaweed broth – the kind influencers try to sell you as a miracle detox elixir, only this one isn't part of a green juice pyramid scheme. It's briny, mushroomy and served in a handmade mug that looks like it's been prized off a rock pool. Welsh seaweed, and indeed the Welsh coast, is a lot like the Japanese, just treated differently. They dry theirs into nori sheets. The Welsh boil theirs for 10 hours and turn it into a thick black sludge called laverbread. Because here in the British Isles, we like to cook things until they forget what they used to be. And yet, this one is delicious. Not quite Tokyo, not quite Tenby, but a compelling case for the in between. Maybe I'll start flogging it myself. And so it goes. The meal builds like a memory. A disc of celeriac in a slick of buttermilk-laverbread sauce does its best impression of that scallop dish you've clocked a hundred times on other tasting menus but is entirely of itself: earthy, saline, oddly nostalgic. There's crab from Solva, pureed with horseradish into a smooth, orby blob somewhere between quenelle and custard, topped with a bump of roe so generous it might start a rumour in Soho. Between that and the martini, it feels just like home. It's a menu that starts like a sightseeing bus tour (but with better snacks) and ends like a whispered folk story – Waters uses Welsh ingredients the way a poet uses dialect: familiar but reborn in your mouth. There's Pembrokeshire mackerel under another slap of horseradish, apple and lovage giving bite and brightness. Mutton from the Gower arrives robust and just a little feral, with wild garlic and a neat fillet of neck on the side – no nonsense, just the good stuff. But for all his respectful nods to the land, Waters isn't shy about bending its rules. A mushroom and pickled juniper cone – basically a miniature forest disguised as a Cornetto – lands in one bite: earthy, creamy and weird in all the best ways. Mushroom ice cream is surely just one plucky investor away. I'd buy the six-pack. Dessert, once again, does the heavy lifting. This time it's sucan – or llymru, or flummery, depending on how deep you want to dig into Welsh culinary trivia. Once a humble, tangy oat pudding for labourers, now a slick, silken finale with apple caramel and smoked raspberry jam, all subtle sourness and deep comfort. It'd look perfectly at home behind a polished glass counter in a Parisian patisserie, but feels truer here, on a quiet Cardiff corner, exactly where it belongs. It's not the kind of pudding you expect from a Michelin-starred kitchen, but then again, that's sort of the point. The wines follow the same rhythm – unfussy, quietly interesting but well worth paying attention to. A glass of Grüner Veltliner from Loimer starts things off with just the right amount of zip: crisp, citrusy, faintly peppery, like it's been designed to wake up your palate without elbowing the food out of the way. The 'Ava Marie' Chardonnay from Restless River comes in later – cool, elegant, lightly oaked, with that chalky sort of backbone that makes mackerel taste even more like mackerel. And with the mutton, a natural Anjou Rouge from Domaine des Brumes, all juicy red and gentle grip, with enough dirt under its nails to meet the wild garlic head-on but still feel light on its feet. There's a four-course lunch at Gorse for £60. The seven-course is £95. Go all in with 10 at £125 and you're still, somehow, paying less than at most London restaurants trying to sell you a story half as well told. Because that's what Gorse does so elegantly: it roots you in Wales not with fanfare or flag-waving, but through the slow build of ingredients, rhythms, rituals. You come expecting polite heritage. You leave realising Wales was always more punk rock than pastoral. If Aulis is the tasting menu as magic trick, a rabbit pulled from a Cumbrian hat in central London, then Gorse is the tasting menu as map. Not the shouty kind with arrows and landmarks, but the sort you fold into your pocket and keep, just in case. One experience is imported, the other is homegrown. One bends place to the plate; the other lets place speak for itself. And that, perhaps, is the joy of this column: not just finding where the food is good – and, crucially, where it's worth the price tag – but where it means something. Sometimes it's a sleek Soho counter conjuring the Lake District in 10 courses. Other times it's a former coffee shop in Cardiff, whispering stories of seaweed, oats and salt marsh lamb. Different destinations, same principle. And dining, when done right, doesn't need to travel far to take you somewhere. 186-188 Kings Rd, Cardiff, CF11 9DF Open: Tuesday to Thursday 18.30-20.00, Friday and Saturday 12.00-14.00 and 18.30-20.00
