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The Guardian
25-02-2025
- Entertainment
- The Guardian
Sex shops, hairy legs and McDonald's merch: street style at London fashion week
What are you wearing? A vintage Dries Van Noten suit, Saint Laurent boots from a couple of seasons back and vintage Tom Ford glasses. What are you most looking forward to? It's all about Chet Lo for me! I just think he does London fashion week so well, blending pop culture with his own culture effortlessly. Chet is always dressing really exciting people and every season I learn something new from him. What are you wearing? The latex hood is from a sex shop and the yellow bag is Puma x Ottolinger. The corset was something I designed for my DJ friend when she did a Boiler Room in 2023. We are both from Ciarraí [County Kerry] in Ireland and this is my brother's jersey – he plays football for the local team. We love to give it as much life as we possibly can, it has so many stories behind it. What are you most looking forward to? I love supporting the up-and-coming talent here in London. I am really excited for the Abigail Ajobi show today. What are you wearing? The coat and trousers are both from Denzil Patrick's spring 2024 menswear collection. The hat is from Advisry, a brand out of New York and the jewellery is mostly from Vitaly. I'm obsessed with these blue sneakers, which are Adidas boxing shoes. What are you most looking forward to? I've done Paris and New York, but I've never been to London fashion week before, so I'm very excited to see the Denzil Patrick show today. I have always been a big Vivienne Westwood fan, so anything that has that kind of punk DNA really draws me in. What are you wearing? The layered skirts and pearl necklaces are from charity shops. I love secondhand shopping all over the world. My boots are from an environmentally conscious footwear brands called Ancuta Sarca and the silver dog bag is from a boutique in Shoreditch. My leather jacket is from Topshop and the white shirt is by Toga. What are you most looking forward to? I've just come from the Toga show. Every single look down the runway I just wanted to eat up. I also loved Sinead Gorey, because her clothes are very reminiscent of my own personal style. What are you wearing? I am wearing this amazing hat from Keburia that says 'the unshaven leg society' on it, which is why I've got the legs out today in the freezing cold. This whole outfit is by designer Owen Edward Snaith who grew up in a Scottish fishing town, so all of his clothes are very referential to that. The bag is by Labienhecha, handmade by a small team of women in Málaga. What are you most looking forward to? My top three would probably have to be Keburia, Maximilian Raynor and Sinead Gorey. What are you wearing? My Bottega Veneta bag, McQueen skull scarf and Prada shoes are all from Vestiaire Collective: I am obsessed with shopping on there. The coat is Ninamounah and the trench style bodysuit is from Coperni. For accessories, the leather tie is SRVC and my sunglasses are from Gentle Monster. What are you most looking forward to? The two shows I was most excited for happened yesterday: Richard Quinn and Dilara Findıkoğlu. I'm can't stop obsessing over garments made of hair, so Dilara's collection was chef's kiss for me. What are you wearing? This floral coat is Preen by Thornton Bregazzi and the skirt is Comme des Garçons. These embellished shoes are CDG Noir Kei Ninomiya X Instapump and my two bags are Prada and Ashley Williams. What are you most looking forward to? It is definitely Simone Rocha for me, she is one of my favourite designers here in London. From the way she is able to combine fairytale with a touch of darkness to the way she celebrates motherhood, I love her. What are you wearing? I'll start off with my Yeti Moon Boots because they inspired me to make these fluffy gloves and trousers to match. My bag is from my own personal brand, Bhumi, which creates accessories using 3D printing technology. What are you most looking forward to? Yesterday I saw the Di Petsa show, which was beautiful, and today I am excited for Sinéad O'Dwyer. Sinéad is one of the few brands across London, Milan, Paris and New York that shows true inclusivity when it comes to its casting and designs. What are you wearing? I am wearing more or less head to toe Toga today. The hat is from Majestic Filatures and the glasses are Victoria Beckham sunglasses that my local optician added my prescription lenses to because I adore the shape so much. What are you most looking forward to? I am based in Paris and have come over to London specifically to watch the Toga show, I have been a fan of the brand for several years now. What are you wearing? I am wearing a McDonald's merch Birthday cap and a tie from WWF. The jacket is MM6 Maison Margiela and the shirt is from an Australian beachwear brands called Alémais. The basket bag is Marni, jeans are Diesel and the shoes are Alexander McQueen. What are you most looking forward to? London has a different feeling from Paris and Milan, the way people dress here is more rebellious. My favourite shows thus far have been Mark Fast, Bora Aksu and Huishan Zhang. What are you wearing? The polkadot dress and padded jacket are both from Marni. The yellow kitten heels are from Prada and my spotted tights and leather bag are H&M Studio. What are you most looking forward to? I own a fashion showroom here in London and act as a liaison between the brands and stores, so it is always important for me to come to fashion week. I'd say that the two shows I am most excited for are Roksanda and Richard Quinn, you know that they are always going to do something extra special. What are you wearing? I am wearing vintage Ferragamo boots and a pre-loved Roberto Cavalli dress. The coat is from H&M and my bag is Louis Vuitton. The scarf is a handmade Argentine piece from Buenos Aires and my friend bought the belt from a flea market in Bolivia. What are you most looking forward to? What I love most about London fashion week is definitely the street style and the people watching. Everybody is so creative and inspiring here.


The Independent
24-02-2025
- Entertainment
- The Independent
Cigarettes and KFC on the catwalk: How London Fashion Week is cashing in on hangover chic
Nothing is less fashionable than a walk of shame. Chances are, your hair is in disarray and smells like an ashtray. On top of that, you've not slept a wink. Think hooded, tired eyes with an overall visage that's at best pallid and at worst severely sunken. Then there's your outfit: laddered tights, someone else's jacket, and a slinky top that's completely at odds with 7am commuter attire. Suffice to say, it's not the most obvious aesthetic to serve as inspiration for designers at London Fashion Week. And yet, it was exactly that for Sinead Gorey, whose A/W2025 collection was an homage to the morning after the night before; it was literally titled: 'Walk of Shame'. According to the show notes, it proposed 'a way of dressing that only surfaces during the wee hours' defined by 'accidental elegance' and looks that are more thrown together than carefully assembled. This was clear from the offset, as guests sat down to find bespoke KFC bags on their seats, each filled with a £10 'chicken cheque'. Taking place in the depths of a car park beneath Oxford Circus with a thrumming soundtrack spearheaded by electronic duo, Bicep, the mood was instantly one of underground – and after-hours – subversion. Models didn't so much as walk down the runway as they did swagger, stopping at various points to make eyes with those on the front row and wearing an array of what Gorey calls 'siren staples' like studded leather one-pieces, tartan co-ords, and scarlet chainmail gowns. Tights were worn over knickers and while knee-high stockings were paired with retro Converse stilettos and bug-eyed sunglasses hid hungover eyes. Playfulness was amplified by way of the red lipstick kiss marks several models had dotted across their chests. As for hemlines, well, they were ludicrously high, sometimes wedged halfway up bottoms, meaning skin was very much on show. At one point, the chaos was such that a model took a tumble and it was unclear whether or not this was intentional. The morning-after mood felt most potent, though, when some models strutted down the runway while puffing on what smelled like real cigarettes; others did so while taking bites out of KFC burgers. 'The decision to work with KFC came from the idea of the journey home from a night out, KFC cup in hand just having finished a burger,' Gorey tells The Independent. 'I think it's something everyone can relate to in one way or another, and I just wanted to have fun with it.' As for the smoking, the southeast Londoner says it was less of a statement than it was a character portrayal. 'I think things are taken too seriously in this industry,' she adds. 'I wanted to add some drama to the runway.' It was a joyful paean to teenage hedonism, evoking a reckless spirit that served as a refreshing antidote to some of the other more quotidian runways elsewhere in the capital. That said, Gorey's themes percolated elsewhere. The faux fur coats that models wore slung down their arms made appearances the following morning at Toga; some were belted while others came with matching hats. Meanwhile, a chaotic mood was conveyed through back-to-front jackets, which were worn by several of the models. Rather than seeming stuffy and prim, as faux fur coats and tailoring sometimes can, here these pieces were worn more subversively: think less Jackie Kennedy and more Carrie Bradshaw. 'I wanted to express provocation,' explained Toga's designer, Yasuko Furuta, in the show notes, which went on to explain that this collection 'takes formalwear and represents it as informal. As anti-form.' Overall, it offered a unique twist on sophisticated style. Speaking of classic elegance, this too was turned on its head at Emilia Wickstead, whose usual tone of demurity was traded for a twitchier, more haunting collection inspired by Alfred Hitchcock's 1963 classic, The Birds, with character-driven design led by the film's costume designer, Edith Head. Models walked the runway in an array of tailored pistachio two-pieces with lingerie-inspired necklines providing a more feminine edge. But with arms crossed, jumpers slung over their shoulders, and black leather gloves held tightly in their hands, the models' demeanours lent themselves to the same teenage angst we saw at Gorey's show. The mood was fraught and deliciously deviant. Simone Rocha also served up a nostalgic collection inspired by her school days complete with chunky knitted cardigans, duffle coats fitted with fur linings and striped rugby shirts. Faux fur found its way onto glamorous floor-length jackets but also onto hot pants as well as belts and bralettes. Then there were the teddy bear-shaped handbags and scarves, as well as tiny pearl tortoises. The show notes, which referred to The Tortoise and the Hare fable, stated simply: 'School days haze. Twisted twin sets. Behind the bike shed.' It's that last line that seems to capture the overall mood from the aforementioned shows, one that is fundamentally about a youthful spirit defined by debauchery, escapism, and the pursuit of hidden pleasures. Bring it on.