Latest news with #Sino-Portuguese
West Australian
24-05-2025
- West Australian
Italian flavours add to Penang's famed street food variety
What can you tell me, an Italian, about our street food, that's not the typical square cuts of pizza you may have enjoyed at any of the panettieri (bread shops) you found while travelling to Rome, Florence, Venice or Milan? That's all good — it's delicious. But let me tell you, as a northern man from Lombardy, that the yummiest street food in my native Italy is found south of Rome — for example in Apulia, a beautiful region of cerulean seas and white-tinged cities like Lecce and Bari, which however still remains incredibly under the radar. I wouldn't be surprised if you admitted that you know nothing about its yummiest quick bite, the panzerotto. A bit like a mini calzone but deep-fried, not baked, panzerotti are divinely fried half moons that may remind you of an Argentinian empanada, but softer and filled with delights ranging from a classic pizza-like tomato and mozzarella to more elaborated concoctions spanning anything from seafood to sliced nuts and boiled eggplant. Dismissed in the gourmet menus of Italy, the panzerotto decided to travel to shores that are oceans away from mamma Apulia: believe it or not, you can now taste this southern Italian treat in Penang, Malaysia, thanks to Gianluca (Luca) De Biasi, a long-time resident and former restaurant manager at Java Tree, the classy bistro of the island's historic Eastern & Oriental Hotel opened in 1884. 'The panzerotto is new to Malaysians, but they appreciate it,' says Luca as I meet him inside Luca's Panzerotti, his new venture on the northern end of Carnarvon Street, set right on the busy corner of George Town's main tourist thoroughfare, Chulia Street. 'In Malaysia, roti means bread, and I tell my customers that this is simply a bread with a panza, which is Italian for a belly,' quips Luca. Assisted by his Penang-born wife Phoebe, after taking a much-deserved break to travel back to Italy and southern Europe to check out the local street foods, Gianluca and wife decided to return to the local hospitality game by opening this mom-and-pop store on the ground floor of a central Sino-Portuguese shophouse. Compared to his lush former employer Eastern & Oriental Hotel, small Luca's Panzerotti is a homey bistro with a shiny red Vespa parked out front and only a handful of wooden tables and stools set against the walls — a very casual and different set-up from the rest of Penang's Italian restaurants such as Il Bacaro, Via Pre and Nero Nero, which focus on the gourmet, high-end spectrum of Italian cuisine. 'Let's say that Penang is famous for street food — Chulia Street's hawker stalls are right in front of our door — and I wanted to do something different on my own terms, not be the umpteenth typical Italian running yet another general Italian restaurant,' says Luca as he passes a hot Panzerotto Classico — the Apulian staple fried pouch filled with melt-in-your-mouth mozzarella and fresh, lava-like tomato — from the frying pan onto the plate in front of me. I know better, but a poster on the wall candidly instructs how to best enjoy the Apulian fried dough: by biting off the top corner, letting the steam come out and inclining the head and torso forward to avoid spilling the hot insides of the belly bread on yourself. An technique born standing on the street, stuffing the mouth with panzerotti while traipsing down an alley. Luca's Panzerotti has a simple yet varied menu on offer. Besides closed staple panzerotti like the Classico — priced at a very affordable $3.60, 'cheaper than Italy,' says Luca — there's mushrooms and potatoes, the tuna and eggplant-based taras and the Luca, a deliciousness of smoked tomato, mozzarella, fried eggplant, basil and aged goat cheese. There are also gourmet panzerotti prepared open on one side like a fried sandwich, or a Belizean fry jack. I try the smoked salmon, garnished with Atlantic salmon, melted mozzarella burrata (a creamy specialty of Apulia) and sprinkled with fresh arugula. It's as authentic as those I tried on the sunny streets of southern Italy. I top my lunch with a slice of focaccia with dried tomatoes, a thick yet soft slab of bread that Luca prepares with masterful skills. Luca Panzerotti's also has a few sweet-tooth treats that go down especially well with their homemade, slow pressed juices that infuse tropical fruit like mango, coconut and nutmeg, a local spice. Besides sweet panzerotti filled with chocolate and a homemade dried fig jam, 80 per cent dark chocolate and nut crumble, there are hearty little boxes of Italian-style tiramisu. It's served either halal style for local Muslims, or drenched in a thick layer of rum, which you will really feel. 'In my region, if you take tiramisu with rum, then there must be rum, not drops,' says Luca, as I feel the heat of the alcohol mixing with the spongy chocolate and coffee-based sweetness in every spoonful. For having opened only six months ago, Luca's Panzerotti has already rounded up a tight-knit following of local Malaysians and higher-profile international Chinese and Indian tourists who want to go for something simple and street-savvy, but are still afraid of trying the local Penang street food that's often cooked and served out in the open. 'We give them the street food they crave for in a little more refined space, yet right in the thick of George Town's central food offerings,' says Luca, who takes care of everything himself and, following his past managerial acumen, anticipates that he may consider expanding into a little franchise after at least another year. 'I'll teach them everything, how to make panzerotti from scratch — but as these are some of my grandmother's original recipes, they'll have to love them as I do, or the magic of the best bread with belly won't happen.' For now, the best place to have authentic panzerotti on this side of the world is from Luca's hands, here in George Town, Penang.
Listly
20-05-2025
- Listly
5 Must-See Landmarks in Phuket You Can't Miss: A Highlight Reel
Far removed from the tourist-heavy beaches lies Old Phuket Town, a district that offers a window into the island's Sino-Portuguese heritage. Characterised by ornate shophouses, quaint cafes, and street art that narrates untold stories, this area embodies Phuket's cultural heart. Strolling along Thalang Road, one can observe the architectural blend of Eastern and Western influences, a remnant of the island's past as a major tin trading port. On Sundays, the Lard Yai Market brings the streets alive with artisanal crafts, local delicacies, and live performances. For those seeking a deeper understanding of the island's evolution, the Thai Hua Museum offers compelling exhibits on Chinese migration and community development in southern Thailand.
Forbes
21-04-2025
- Forbes
Where To Eat And Drink In Old Town Phuket, According Hotel Verdigris' Owner
Pichakorn "Peach" Phanichwong, owner of Hotel Vrerdigris. In 2023, I passed by Hotel Verdigris in Old Town Phuket—a Mr & Mrs Smith-vetted boutique stay (my personal trusted source for cool hotels) that looked like the perfect place to hole up for a long weekend. I flagged it for my return, and earlier this year, I finally made it back. This soulful part of Phuket is dotted with colorful Sino-Portuguese shophouses, hidden temples, a vibrant art scene, and plenty of amazing restaurants and bars. Hotel Verdigris feels like stepping into an 18th-century dreamscape—an ode to Martina Rozells, Penang's enigmatic Thai-Portuguese First Lady. Its owner, Pichakorn 'Peach' Phanichwong, describes the vibe as 'contemporary Eurasian with hints of old-world opulence.' I opted for the Billon Room, designed with solo travelers in mind (and Peach's personal favorite), featuring herringbone parquet floors, brightly colored kimono-style robes, and my favorite amenity: a balcony with a built-in terrazzo bathtub that looks up to the sky and down onto a koi pond. Hotel Verdigris The next day, Peach took me on a walk around town that included ร้านขนมแม่หงวด (Mae Nguad), where she handed me a bag of fried meatballs so I could walk, talk, and dip simultaneously. 'Delicious,' I screeched. Over snacks, we talked food, travel, and how she got into the hotel world. 'For me, travel isn't about checking off landmarks—it's about discovering how people live,' she said. 'I'm drawn to the rhythm of local life: what people eat, how they go about their day, and the small, everyday details that reveal the soul of a place.' Billon Room at Hotel Verdigris If you're a boutique hotel person like me, you'll appreciate the charm and personality of Hotel Verdigris. 'Boutique hotels reflect the spirit of their surroundings in a way that feels authentic and personal—through design, food, and hospitality,' says Phanichwong. 'Creating one here felt like a way to celebrate my roots and share that experience with others.' 'This part of town is still very much alive—we locals come here for dinner, drinks, coffee, and slow evening strolls,' she adds. 'I wanted to create a space where guests could be part of that rhythm. Not just a visitor, but a part of Phuket Town, even if only for a little while.' Hotel Verdigris. One of my favorite things? Breakfast. 'When I travel, I skip the standard hotel breakfast and search for those hidden local gems—the real flavor,' says Peach. 'So this is the kind of experience I've always wanted to offer guests: a chance to taste the city the way I do.' Dim sum at breakfast; Hotel Verdigris. Guests can go classic—croissants, eggs, the usual comforts—or take Peach's advice and order from her personal 'Peach-elin Guide,' a selection of beloved local spots where Phuketians actually eat. Think dim sum, rice soup, rice salad, noodles with curry—dishes that reflect Phuket's unique culinary identity. The most popular is Siu Boi, Phuket-style dim sum. 'Even Thai guests from other regions ask for it,' she says. The secret is in the Nam Chor dipping sauce: not as spicy as it looks, but rich with dried chilies, tamarind juice, and a blend of seasonings—totally different from the usual vinegar dip. The dim sum comes from a local institution that opens at 5 a.m. and usually sells out by 8. 'Our team picks it up fresh, reheats it for hygiene, and serves it when guests wake up,' Peach explains. 'So yes, you can have a 7 a.m. breakfast at 10, right here in the sunroom.' A local snack shop with no written menu, serving daily desserts, fried meatballs, and authentic Phuket coconut milk fried rice-noodles. 'My favorite, though, is Hoo Chae, a classic Phuket-style salad made with a mix of fresh and boiled vegetables, egg, and crispy noodles, all topped with Nam Chor, a signature dressing that brings sweet, salty, sour, and spicy together in one bite.' The Charm Dining Gallery. Go here with friends and order the entire menu. It's traditional Phuket food reminiscent of home-cooked meals. 'This place will always be at the top of my list, simply because they make food exactly like lunch at my grandma's. I always order the Pla Tau Eu, fried fish braised in soy sauce with garlic. And it's not just the taste they get right, they also never compromise on the freshness of their ingredients.' Phanichwong spent a few years in Melbourne and still thinks often of its distinct, multicultural food scene. 'Having a taste of that here in Phuket, especially from Chef Nattaphon 'Oat' Othanawathakij—who also lived in Melbourne—feels extra meaningful. With fresh local ingredients and Australian-inspired touches, it's just nice to have a little bit of Melbourne at home once in a while.' Surf & Turf by Soul Kitchen. I cut my flight close, wrapping up Old Town Phuket with a final dinner from Chef Tom Köffers and Peach. Originally from Germany, Köffers infuses Thai flavors with a European touch. 'He cooks every dish himself, so he's always there. In Phuket Town, even the architecture reflects our history as a Eurasian crossroads, and this place captures that spirit beautifully. One great example is his take on Hor Mok, the classic Phuket fish curry cake, reimagined to reflect East meets West. Or the prawn carpaccio with a subtle hint of Laab—chef's kiss.' A-Pong is a heavenly Phuket-style coconut pancake, cooked over charcoal with coconut milk, rice flour, and palm sugar. Phanichwong describes it as 'light, slightly chewy in the center, and crisp around the edges—all in one bite.' The recipe traces back to Indian appam, brought to Phuket through old trading routes. 'Locals made it thinner, sweeter, and uniquely ours. I love introducing it to my friends from Bangkok—not just because they can't find it there, but because most have never even heard of it.' Restaurant Royd. A creative reinterpretations of classic Southern Thai dishes made with local produce by way of the talented Chef Mond Suwijak Kunghae in an imtinamte but unpretentious space .'He celebrates Southern Thai cuisine with pride, and modern thoughtful approach. Sometimes fine dining can get so experimental that you lose sight of the original dish, but he manages to preserve the true flavors, even when the presentation looks nothing like the traditional version. This is a personal favorite for Phanichwong. 'I make it a point to visit local markets whenever I travel—they tell me the most about how people really live and eat. You can see what's in season, what people cook at home, and get a feel for the rhythm of daily life. In Phuket, the Downtown Market is that place. Locals have gone there for fresh fruits, vegetables, and everyday ingredients for as long as I can remember.' There are no shortages of great afés in Phuket. 'I have to give a special shoutout to Dou Brew. It's been there for me since the beginning, before the café scene really blew up in Phuket Town. Whether I'm craving a solid espresso, a clean filter brew, or feeling funky with their flavored dirty coffee inspired by local desserts, Dou Brew always hits the spot.' Coolies Club. 'Phuket has lived through many eras, and the tin mining period was especially important—it's what turned the area into a hub for trade. My grandfather even owned a tin mine, so that history feels personal, and Coolies Club captures the heritage well. The concept is inspired by a place where miners would unwind after work, with food and cocktails that focus on smoky flavors, which I absolutely love. The space has so much character with its eclectic interior.' 'Torry's has become synonymous with ice cream in Phuket and plays a big role in keeping our sweet traditions alive. I always come back to their Si Tau So, a local spin on cookies and cream. If you've stayed at my hotel, you might recognize the cookie from the minibar jar—Phuket's take on the classic Chinese walnut cookie. Torry's also serves flavors inspired by other local desserts like O-Aew jelly and Bi Ko Moi black glutinous rice.' 'I'm drawn to places that are a little obsessed with what they do—and it shows. Ryn is one of those spots where you instantly feel the care behind everything, from the wide variety of teas and brewing methods to the really great sweet treats that go with it.'
New York Times
20-03-2025
- New York Times
The Thai Island With a Food Scene That Rivals the Beach
Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we share things we're eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday, along with monthly travel and beauty guides, and the latest stories from our print issues. And you can always reach us at tmagazine@ The Restaurants That Make Phuket, Thailand, a Fine-Dining Destination Located on the Andaman Sea at the entrance to the Strait of Malacca, the tropical island of Phuket, Thailand, has long been known for its splashy beach resorts. But lately, its food scene has become just as much of a draw. It was named a UNESCO City of Gastronomy in 2015 and has evolved over the past decade with a set of fine-dining destinations. The most recent addition is Terra, a modern Italian restaurant in a renovated 1898 Sino-Portuguese mansion built during the island's tin-mining boom. It opened in January with two tasting menus featuring dishes like langoustine and shellfish emulsion with chestnut quenelles, and sole and sea urchin in an Amalfi lemon beurre blanc. It joins Royd, which in 2022 began welcoming visitors to a 12-seat table in a stylish 1970s shop house, where the Phuket-born chef Suwijak Kunghae riffs on traditional southern Thai cooking with dishes like tofu skin tart with smoked pig's head and tamarind sauce, and squid with Phuket pineapple and southern Thai sour curry. At Pru, founded in 2016, the Dutch chef Jimmy Ophorst cooks dishes like durian and caviar, roasting the notoriously odoriferous Southeast Asian fruit, then turning it into a mousse that he garnishes with local roe. When you've had enough courses, try one of Phuket's many small, inexpensive restaurants specializing in just one or two dishes. Krua Baan Platong uses local ingredients to produce Phuket comfort food like steamed pork belly with a southern Thai budu dipping sauce made with fermented anchovies; and Niyom Salt Grilled Duck is a simple roadside place serving juicy charcoal-roasted duck with a choice of spicy sour or tamarind dipping sauce. Glasses That Combine California Cool With Japanese Craftsmanship When it comes to manufacturing quality eyewear, no one does it like the Japanese. But finding and trying on great pairs outside of Asia can be somewhat challenging. As a daily glasses-wearer, I've long relied on Mr. Leight, the limited-edition range of luxurious, Japanese-made pairs designed by Garrett Leight in collaboration with his father, Larry Leight, who's best known for founding the brand Oliver Peoples in 1986. But now there's a new, slightly less rarefied option if you're looking to pick up a springtime pair of optical or sunglasses handcrafted on the archipelago: Garrett Leight Blue, which upgrades two of the company's most popular, California-inspired silhouettes (the Kinney and the Hampton) with premium details like adjustable titanium nose pads, subtly filigreed metal arm-detailing and quality acetate that's less likely to whiten or fade over time. Offered in a few off-kilter colors — think light pink or opal frames, with tinted, UV-protective lenses that have contrasting shades of deep oceanic blue or moss green — they're also just plain fun, down to the cerulean faux snakeskin case that's so bright it ought to prevent you from misplacing them. From $465, A New Hotel in Taiwan's Capital With Sweeping City Views and Personal Plunge Pools When Dunhua North Road was constructed after World War II, the wide, tree-lined boulevard linked what was then Taipei, Taiwan's main airport with the city center, welcoming international visitors to the growing metropolis. The newly built Capella Taipei sits on the northern end of the avenue that now bisects the city. Designed by the Hong Kong-based André Fu Studio, it has five restaurants, including Rong Ju — or 'banyan house,' the name a nod to the century-old trees growing in front of the hotel — which serves Cantonese cuisine under pitched ceilings resembling the red-tiled roofs that characterize some of Taipei's oldest neighborhoods. Floor-to-ceiling windows in the 86 hotel rooms frame city views that in some cases include the Taipei 101 tower (finished in 2004, it was the world's tallest building until 2010). The pool terrace suites have their own outdoor plunge pools, but guests who really need an escape can retreat to the wellness center, which offers a sensory deprivation flotation tank. Capella also plans to offer excursions for guests to explore Taiwanese culture, such as a visit to a tea farm nestled in the mountains that surround the city. Capella Taipei opens April 1. From about $620 a night, Olive Oils With Deep Roots While it's tempting to ration a nice olive oil, the liquid in the bottle is extremely perishable. According to the North American Olive Oil Association, a container should generally be drained within three months of opening to avoid oxidation, so you may as well splash it around un-self-consciously, and replenish it frequently. When it comes time to try a new one, go for an oil that can be traced to its origin, a strong signifier of quality. Agricola Maraviglia's oil comes from the Tuscan farm where one of its founders grew up, and where today they prune and pick by hand. After mapping his lineage to Sicily, the owner of a plant nursery in South Carolina returned to his ancestral land to launch Aulive last year, using succulent Nocellara del Belice olives. The founders of Olivaia's OLA spent half a decade rehabilitating an abandoned estate in California's Central Valley, nurturing century-old trees to produce a fruity blend of nine distinct cultivars. Oro di Milas, on the other hand, uses only Memecik olives grown in an ancient Mediterranean province of Turkey, earning the EU's Protected Designation of Origin, which certifies the provenance of both the olive and the finished product. Across the Aegean, Koroneiki olives from farmers in Messenia, Greece, fill Psyche Organic's sleek pouches, which have spigot dispensers that help preserve the oil in an airless chamber. By summer, when the Northern Hemisphere oils harvested the previous fall are passing their prime, Familia Zuccardi in Mendoza, Argentina, is just getting to work milling the Arauco olive, which has a spicy, tomato-like juiciness — ensuring that shoppers always have something freshly pressed to pour. In Pangrati, Athens, Creative Kitchens and Old-School Ice Cream Pangrati, the laid-back Athens neighborhood that's just a 20-minute walk from the Temple of Zeus and Syntagma Square, has recently been discovered by the fasaios (to use the Greek term for 'hipsters'). The buzz began about two years ago with the opening of Akra, a light-filled restaurant with a wood-fired oven near lively Proskopon Square. It's open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, serving dishes like moussaka with a mushroom ragout from the chef-owner Giannis Loukakis and baked goods including sourdough bread and a caramelized milk tart from the pastry chef Spiros Pediaditakis. The latest addition to the neighborhood is Aswtos Rogue Taverna, which opened late last fall. The music is loud, the servers tattooed; a DJ plays after hours. The menu features simple dishes like grilled cabbage salad with pickled carrot, cumin and hazelnuts, and the restaurant's take on a gyro. Down the street is the fine-dining restaurant Soil, where the chef Tasos Mantis offers a vegetable-focused tasting menu in a charming townhouse with a patio shaded by citrus trees. Afterward, head to the wine bar Materia Prima for a glass of white made with rare Bostilidi grapes. It's near Mesolongiou Square, which is fragrant with orange blossoms in the spring. During the day, Foyer Espresso Bar is the place to go for a pour-over coffee made with single-origin beans. Then there are the old-school favorites like Lido, a bakery that serves the best tsoureki (brioche-like bread often flavored with mastic or mahlab, a spice that comes from cherry pits) and Toula, an ice cream shop famous for its mustard flavor that's actually made with rose water, caramel and vanilla. Louis Vuitton Animal Plates Inspired by an Italian Futurist Artist While working in Rovereto, Italy, at the height of industrialization, the multidisciplinary artist Fortunato Depero helped define the Italian Futurism movement with paintings, advertisements and set designs that projected a Technicolor vision of modernity. He designed a block-lettered fair pavilion for the 1927 Monza Biennale Internazionale delle Arti Decorative, the triangular Campari Soda bottle that's still in use today and cover illustrations for Vanity Fair. While he faded from public view after Futurism fell out of favor owing to its association with Fascism, Depero's work has since been displayed in exhibitions at New York's Guggenheim and Museum of Modern Art. At this year's Milan Design Week, Louis Vuitton will debut a colorful collection of tableware and home textiles inspired by his designs. A six-piece set of plates, for example, playfully depicts Depero's signature style (primary colors, bold lines and geometric shapes) in the form of fantastical beasts. The Louis Vuitton Fortunato Depero Collection will be available to purchase in stores this June. Price on request,
