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Express Tribune
19-05-2025
- Sport
- Express Tribune
Daredevil feat
Mountaineering looks like a kid's stuff for us Pakistanis. And this is no overstatement. So many of our mountaineers have made the country proud by their daredevil exploits. Sirbaz Khan is the latest in the long list of Pakistani summiteers who have come up with record-setting feats. As Sirbaz scaled Kangchenjunga, the world's third highest peak having an altitude of 8,586 meters, this past Sunday, he clinched a remarkable feat – becoming the first Pakistani, and one of the very few elite mountaineers worldwide, to summit all the 14 peaks over 8,000 meters without supplementary oxygen support. The other 13 Eight Thousanders that Sirbaz has summited are Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu, Nanga Parbat, Annapurna I, Gasherbrum I, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum II and Shishapangma. However, the story of Sirbaz – like nearly all other Pakistani mountaineers – is of paucity and privation in peaking. In the pursuit of his goals, Sirbaz – hailing from Gilgit-Baltistan – has ever had to do without proper hiking gear and essentials. His accomplishments have resulted from pure alpine climbing passion, sans the support enjoyed by his counterparts in the developed world. This is putting life in danger for a national honour – daredevilry in every sense of the word. There is no death of Pakistani mountaineers who are making a name for the nation on course of their professional pursuit. Sadly though, mountaineers are among the most neglected sportspersons in the country – hardly ever accorded any attention by the government in terms of provision of professional, technical or monetary support that they need and so very well deserve. It's about time the government started paying due attention to the sportspersons who continue to hoist the national flag on the peak of the peaks.
Gulf Today
19-05-2025
- Sport
- Gulf Today
Pakistan's Sirbaz scales 14 world's highest peaks without oxygen
In a moment of great pride for Pakistan, renowned mountaineer Sirbaz Khan became the first person from Pakistan to summit all 14 of the world's highest peaks without supplemental oxygen, completing the milestone by reaching the top of Kangchenjunga. This remarkable feat was accomplished in Nepal, according to Karrar Haidri, Secretary of the Alpine Club of Pakistan. The final milestone came on Sunday when Sirbaz reached the summit of Kangchenjunga (8,586 metres) at 11:50am local time. A native of Hunza Valley, Sirbaz began his journey in 2017 with the ascent of Nanga Parbat. 'When I started this journey after summiting Nanga Parbat, my goal was clear: all 14×8000m peaks without supplemental oxygen,' he had said earlier during his Annapurna climb. Globally, fewer than 25 climbers have achieved this feat without oxygen, placing Sirbaz in one of the most elite circles in mountaineering history. Kanchenjunga, the third-highest mountain in the world, was scaled by Sirbaz in full alpine style-a method marked by complete independence and minimal support, without fixed camps or external oxygen. Haidri emphasised that Sirbaz Khan's incredible journey is a decade-long tale of passion, sacrifice, and endurance, adding that he climbed all the eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen and without using pre-established camps. This achievement not only places Sirbaz Khan among the elite ranks of the world's greatest climbers but also illuminates Pakistan's name on the global mountaineering stage. The Alpine Club of Pakistan has officially declared Sirbaz Khan a national hero, with Haidri noting that this son of Gilgit-Baltistan has etched his place among the finest climbers in mountaineering history. 'Sirbaz Khan's success,' said Haidri, 'is a glowing torch of inspiration for the new generation.' Sirbaz has consistently broken ground for Pakistani climbers. He became the first Pakistani to scale Lhotse in 2019, followed by Annapurna and Dhaulagiri in 2021, and Makalu in 2022—all without bottled oxygen. In 2023, he summited Cho Oyu, and in October 2024, he completed Shishapangma—his 14th and final peak. He also led all-Pakistani expeditions to Gasherbrum I and II, helping elevate Pakistan's profile in high-altitude mountaineering. By re-climbing the two previously oxygen-assisted peaks, Sirbaz Khan has not only met his personal goal but also set a new national benchmark in mountaineering excellence. Agencies
Express Tribune
19-05-2025
- Sport
- Express Tribune
Mountaineer Sirbaz achieves unique feat
Renowned Pakistani mountaineer Sirbaz Khan achieved yet another landmark in the history of high-altitude climbing as he successfully summited the world's third-highest mountain, Kangchenjunga, on Sunday morning. Khan reached the top of the 8,586 meters high Kangchenjunga at 5am Nepal Time. What makes this feat extraordinary is that he achieved it without the use of supplementary oxygen - a defining moment in Pakistan's mountaineering legacy. With this latest accomplishment, Sirbaz Khan becomes the first Pakistani, and one of the very few elite mountaineers worldwide, to summit all the 14 peaks over 8,000-meters - known as the 'Eight-Thousanders' - without supplementary oxygen support. Previously he has scaled Everest, 8,848 m; K2, 8,611m; Lhotse, 8,516 m; Makalu, 8,485m; Cho Oyu, 8,188 m; Dhaulagiri, 8,167 m; Manaslu, 8,163 m; Nanga Parbat, 8,126m; Annapurna I, 8,091m; Gasherbrum I, 8,080 m; Broad Peak, 8,051 m; Gasherbrum II, 8,035m; and Shishapangma, 8,027m. Sirbaz Khan's journey to this historic milestone spanned over a decade. His achievement on Sunday not only cemented his place among the greatest mountaineers of all time but also brings immense pride to the people of Pakistan. Khan hails from Gilgit-Baltistan (G-B). His accomplishment was made in the spirit of pure alpine climbing — minimal gear, no fixed ropes or camps set by Sherpas, and no oxygen support. "Sirbaz Khan has made the entire nation proud. Completing all 14 eight-thousanders without oxygen is a rare and heroic achievement. He is a symbol of Pakistani resilience, skill, and courage on the highest peaks of the world," Karrar Haidri, Secretary of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, said, in a congratulatory message to Khan.
Business Recorder
18-05-2025
- Sport
- Business Recorder
Sirbaz Khan becomes first Pakistani to summit all 14 highest peaks without oxygen
Sirbaz Khan on Sunday successfully summited Mt. Kangchenjunga, the world's third-highest mountain, without the use of supplementary oxygen, becoming the first Pakistani to scale all 14 peaks over 8,000 meters without bottled oxygen. The summit was achieved at 5:00am local time (4:15am PKT), in what experts are calling a rare and heroic feat of high-altitude climbing. The 35-year-old climber from Aliabad, Hunza in Gilgit-Baltistan completed the climb in true alpine style, with minimal gear, no fixed ropes or camps set by Sherpas, and no oxygen support. With this achievement, Sirbaz now joins an elite group of mountaineers worldwide who have completed all 14 of the world's 'eight-thousanders', including Everest (8,848m), K2 (8,611m), Kangchenjunga (8,586m), Lhotse (8,516m), Makalu (8,485m), Cho Oyu (8,188m), Dhaulagiri (8,167m), Manaslu (8,163m), Nanga Parbat (8,126m), Annapurna I (8,091m), Gasherbrum I (8,080m), Broad Peak (8,051m), Gasherbrum II (8,035m), and Shishapangma (8,027m). Mountaineer Shehroze creates history Alpine Club of Pakistan Secretary Karrar Haidri confirmed the summit and lauded the climber's unparalleled commitment. 'With this summit, Sirbaz Khan becomes the first Pakistani to climb all 14 highest peaks without oxygen. It is a rare and historic milestone. He has made the entire nation proud,' Haidri said. Sirbaz began his climbing career in 2016, and over the past decade has built a reputation for resilience, skill, and courage. He has been part of multiple major expeditions, including four alongside the late Muhammad Ali Sadpara, the legendary Pakistani climber whose dream was also to summit all 14 peaks. Speaking ahead of his successful Dhaulagiri expedition last year, Sirbaz had paid tribute to his mentor: 'I am looking forward to this expedition and reaching closer to the dream of my mentor Ali Sadpara, who had the similar dream of scaling the 14 highest peaks, but tragically lost his life earlier this year during a winter expedition on K-2.' Record number of climbers chase 14-peak dream in Tibet His latest feat has drawn congratulations from across the country, with climbers including Naila Kiani and Sajid Sadpara, as well as members of civil society and political leaders, commending his determination and contribution to Pakistan's mountaineering legacy. Sirbaz has long stated his mission is not only to raise the country's flag atop the highest mountains in the world, but also to inspire a new generation of climbers from Pakistan to dream big and embrace the spirit of adventure.
Express Tribune
18-05-2025
- Sport
- Express Tribune
Sirbaz is now among a select group of around 70 climbers globally to have summited all 14 peaks.
Listen to article Pakistani mountaineer Sirbaz Khan has made history by becoming the first Pakistani to summit all of the world's 8,000-metre peaks without the use of supplemental oxygen. Sirbaz Khan, who hails from Hunza Valley, reached the top of Kangchenjunga (8,586 metres) on Sunday, completing a years-long campaign across the world's highest and most dangerous mountains. While he had previously climbed all 14 peaks by 2024, two of his earlier summits had been made using bottled oxygen. In April 2025, he re-climbed Annapurna, and now Kangchenjunga, both without artificial oxygen, to accomplish the feat under pure alpine style. Sirbaz Khan is now among a select group of around 70 climbers globally to have summited all 14 peaks. Fewer than 25 have done so entirely without supplemental oxygen, a demanding feat that involves climbing in the so-called "death zone", where oxygen levels are critically low. His journey began in 2017 with a successful ascent of Nanga Parbat (8,126m), one of the world's most treacherous mountains. He went on to climb K2 in 2018, Lhotse in 2019 — becoming the first Pakistani to summit it — and Broad Peak without oxygen that same year. In subsequent years, Sirbaz Khan added Manaslu, Annapurna, Everest, Gasherbrum I and II, Dhaulagiri, Makalu, Cho Oyu, and Shishapangma to his record, often as the first Pakistani to do so. Earlier, Sajid Ali Sadpara successfully scaled Dhaulagiri, the world's seventh-highest mountain at 8,167 metres, without the use of supplemental oxygen.
