Latest news with #SirbazKhan
Khaleej Times
4 days ago
- Khaleej Times
Pakistan's climbers are taking the nation to the top of the world
On the jagged, wind-ravaged ridges of Earth's highest peaks, where oxygen is scarce and survival is never guaranteed, a quiet revolution is unfolding, led by Pakistanis. Once seen as the playground of foreign climbers and elite alpine nations, the world of high-altitude mountaineering is now being shaped by young Pakistani trailblazers who are not only challenging the extremes of nature, but also long-held narratives about what's possible. As the country marks independence, the ascent of four climbers - Asad Ali Memon, Sirbaz Khan, Sajid Ali Sadpara, and Naila Kiani - speak to a deeper national story: of resilience, reinvention, and reaching heights once thought unimaginable. Asad Ali Memon's journey from the flat, sun-scorched plains of Larkana to the towering summits of the world is a remarkable tale of determination, courage, and breaking barriers. Hailing from a region with no mountains, limited resources, and a climate that seems worlds apart from the icy peaks he now conquers, Asad's story is one of defying odds and challenging deep-rooted myths. In 2019, he made the bold decision to turn his passion for mountaineering into a full-time pursuit. With no prior international climbing experience and minimal support, he embarked on his first expedition to Mount Elbrus in Russia, the highest peak in Europe. Against all expectations, he became the youngest Pakistani to stand atop this summit, a moment that fueled his resolve and set him on a path of continuous achievement. 'Mountains don't let you rush,' Asad reflects thoughtfully while talking to Khaleej Times. 'They demand patience, respect, and a willingness to face failure before success.' His steady progression through the years culminated in a landmark achievement in 2023 when he summited Mount Everest, becoming the first Pakistani from Sindh and only the tenth Pakistani overall to do so. For Asad, reaching Everest's summit was more than a personal victory, it was a powerful message that no one's background or circumstances should define their potential. The challenges escalated further when he tackled Antarctica's Vinson Massif, the coldest peak on earth. 'Preparing for Vinson was unlike anything I'd faced before,' he recalls. 'Coming from the hottest part of Pakistan, I had to overcome not only the brutal cold but also mental battles. My gear was second-hand, and I had to rely heavily on breathing techniques and sheer willpower.' Despite the harsh conditions, Asad's unwavering determination saw him through. 'I told myself I didn't come this far to quit. Vinson was a test of everything I had learned, and I passed with frost and pride.' As he now looks ahead to completing the final climb of the Seven Summits, the highest peak of Oceania, Asad's vision transcends personal glory. 'This journey is no longer just about me,' he shares. 'I want young people from Larkana, or any part of Pakistan where privilege is scarce, to believe that the world is theirs to explore. Mountains are not just for those born in the hills; they're for anyone with the courage to climb.' Asad Ali Memon's story is a beacon of hope and perseverance, reminding us all that barriers are often illusions, the greatest limits exist only in our minds. Sirbaz Khan: The oxygen-free elite Sirbaz Khan has etched his name in history as the first Pakistani to summit all 14 of the world's peaks above 8,000 meters without supplementary oxygen — an extraordinary feat officially confirmed by the Alpine Club of Pakistan. The 34-year-old climber from Hunza Valley in Gilgit-Baltistan completed this monumental journey after conquering Nepal's 8,586-meter Kangchenjunga, the world's third-highest peak, in a triumphant ascent that marks the culmination of a remarkable career. Since beginning his climbing journey in 2016, Sirbaz has steadily pushed the boundaries of Pakistani mountaineering. He made history in 2019 by becoming the first Pakistani to summit Mount Lhotse without oxygen support and has since stood atop iconic peaks including Nanga Parbat, K2, Broad Peak, Annapurna, Gasherbrum II, and Everest. In October 2024, he reached the summit of Shishapangma in Tibet, sealing his place among the elite few worldwide who have conquered every 'eight-thousander' unaided by bottled oxygen. Sirbaz's achievement is a testament to relentless determination, skill, and the spirit of adventure thriving in Pakistan's mountainous north. Sajid Ali Sadpara: Legacy at altitude Carrying the legacy of his legendary father Muhammad Ali Sadpara, who tragically lost his life on K2 in 2021, Sajid Ali Sadpara is not just walking in his father's footsteps, he's carving a path of his own. In spring 2025, Sajid achieved a major milestone by summiting Dhaulagiri (8,167m) in Nepal without supplemental oxygen or porters, becoming the first to summit the peak that season. It marked his ninth 8,000-metre peak, all climbed solo and without oxygen. 'Climbing is not just my profession, it's my inheritance,' he said. 'Every step I take is for my father, for the country, and for the belief that Pakistani climbers belong on the global stage.' At just 29, Sajid is now positioned to become the youngest Pakistani to complete all 14 of the world's highest peaks without bottled oxygen, a mission he continues with humility and purpose. The summit of national pride What binds these climbers together isn't just geography or grit, it's their shared commitment to elevating Pakistan's global identity. Whether it's the determination of Asad in Antarctica, the discipline of Sirbaz at altitude, the legacy-driven mission of Sajid, or the ceiling-breaking success of Naila, each story speaks to a deeper narrative of progress. As Asad Ali Memon puts it: 'The biggest myth I've broken is that you need to be born in the mountains to climb them. You don't. You need heart. You need hunger. And you need to remember that nothing, not even the sky, is the limit.' This Independence Day, these climbers don't just remind us of the power of dreams, they prove that Pakistan is not just climbing, it's soaring.
Express Tribune
19-05-2025
- Sport
- Express Tribune
Daredevil feat
Mountaineering looks like a kid's stuff for us Pakistanis. And this is no overstatement. So many of our mountaineers have made the country proud by their daredevil exploits. Sirbaz Khan is the latest in the long list of Pakistani summiteers who have come up with record-setting feats. As Sirbaz scaled Kangchenjunga, the world's third highest peak having an altitude of 8,586 meters, this past Sunday, he clinched a remarkable feat – becoming the first Pakistani, and one of the very few elite mountaineers worldwide, to summit all the 14 peaks over 8,000 meters without supplementary oxygen support. The other 13 Eight Thousanders that Sirbaz has summited are Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu, Nanga Parbat, Annapurna I, Gasherbrum I, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum II and Shishapangma. However, the story of Sirbaz – like nearly all other Pakistani mountaineers – is of paucity and privation in peaking. In the pursuit of his goals, Sirbaz – hailing from Gilgit-Baltistan – has ever had to do without proper hiking gear and essentials. His accomplishments have resulted from pure alpine climbing passion, sans the support enjoyed by his counterparts in the developed world. This is putting life in danger for a national honour – daredevilry in every sense of the word. There is no death of Pakistani mountaineers who are making a name for the nation on course of their professional pursuit. Sadly though, mountaineers are among the most neglected sportspersons in the country – hardly ever accorded any attention by the government in terms of provision of professional, technical or monetary support that they need and so very well deserve. It's about time the government started paying due attention to the sportspersons who continue to hoist the national flag on the peak of the peaks.
Gulf Today
19-05-2025
- Sport
- Gulf Today
Pakistan's Sirbaz scales 14 world's highest peaks without oxygen
In a moment of great pride for Pakistan, renowned mountaineer Sirbaz Khan became the first person from Pakistan to summit all 14 of the world's highest peaks without supplemental oxygen, completing the milestone by reaching the top of Kangchenjunga. This remarkable feat was accomplished in Nepal, according to Karrar Haidri, Secretary of the Alpine Club of Pakistan. The final milestone came on Sunday when Sirbaz reached the summit of Kangchenjunga (8,586 metres) at 11:50am local time. A native of Hunza Valley, Sirbaz began his journey in 2017 with the ascent of Nanga Parbat. 'When I started this journey after summiting Nanga Parbat, my goal was clear: all 14×8000m peaks without supplemental oxygen,' he had said earlier during his Annapurna climb. Globally, fewer than 25 climbers have achieved this feat without oxygen, placing Sirbaz in one of the most elite circles in mountaineering history. Kanchenjunga, the third-highest mountain in the world, was scaled by Sirbaz in full alpine style-a method marked by complete independence and minimal support, without fixed camps or external oxygen. Haidri emphasised that Sirbaz Khan's incredible journey is a decade-long tale of passion, sacrifice, and endurance, adding that he climbed all the eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen and without using pre-established camps. This achievement not only places Sirbaz Khan among the elite ranks of the world's greatest climbers but also illuminates Pakistan's name on the global mountaineering stage. The Alpine Club of Pakistan has officially declared Sirbaz Khan a national hero, with Haidri noting that this son of Gilgit-Baltistan has etched his place among the finest climbers in mountaineering history. 'Sirbaz Khan's success,' said Haidri, 'is a glowing torch of inspiration for the new generation.' Sirbaz has consistently broken ground for Pakistani climbers. He became the first Pakistani to scale Lhotse in 2019, followed by Annapurna and Dhaulagiri in 2021, and Makalu in 2022—all without bottled oxygen. In 2023, he summited Cho Oyu, and in October 2024, he completed Shishapangma—his 14th and final peak. He also led all-Pakistani expeditions to Gasherbrum I and II, helping elevate Pakistan's profile in high-altitude mountaineering. By re-climbing the two previously oxygen-assisted peaks, Sirbaz Khan has not only met his personal goal but also set a new national benchmark in mountaineering excellence. Agencies
Express Tribune
19-05-2025
- Sport
- Express Tribune
Mountaineer Sirbaz achieves unique feat
Renowned Pakistani mountaineer Sirbaz Khan achieved yet another landmark in the history of high-altitude climbing as he successfully summited the world's third-highest mountain, Kangchenjunga, on Sunday morning. Khan reached the top of the 8,586 meters high Kangchenjunga at 5am Nepal Time. What makes this feat extraordinary is that he achieved it without the use of supplementary oxygen - a defining moment in Pakistan's mountaineering legacy. With this latest accomplishment, Sirbaz Khan becomes the first Pakistani, and one of the very few elite mountaineers worldwide, to summit all the 14 peaks over 8,000-meters - known as the 'Eight-Thousanders' - without supplementary oxygen support. Previously he has scaled Everest, 8,848 m; K2, 8,611m; Lhotse, 8,516 m; Makalu, 8,485m; Cho Oyu, 8,188 m; Dhaulagiri, 8,167 m; Manaslu, 8,163 m; Nanga Parbat, 8,126m; Annapurna I, 8,091m; Gasherbrum I, 8,080 m; Broad Peak, 8,051 m; Gasherbrum II, 8,035m; and Shishapangma, 8,027m. Sirbaz Khan's journey to this historic milestone spanned over a decade. His achievement on Sunday not only cemented his place among the greatest mountaineers of all time but also brings immense pride to the people of Pakistan. Khan hails from Gilgit-Baltistan (G-B). His accomplishment was made in the spirit of pure alpine climbing — minimal gear, no fixed ropes or camps set by Sherpas, and no oxygen support. "Sirbaz Khan has made the entire nation proud. Completing all 14 eight-thousanders without oxygen is a rare and heroic achievement. He is a symbol of Pakistani resilience, skill, and courage on the highest peaks of the world," Karrar Haidri, Secretary of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, said, in a congratulatory message to Khan.
Business Recorder
18-05-2025
- Sport
- Business Recorder
Sirbaz Khan becomes first Pakistani to summit all 14 highest peaks without oxygen
Sirbaz Khan on Sunday successfully summited Mt. Kangchenjunga, the world's third-highest mountain, without the use of supplementary oxygen, becoming the first Pakistani to scale all 14 peaks over 8,000 meters without bottled oxygen. The summit was achieved at 5:00am local time (4:15am PKT), in what experts are calling a rare and heroic feat of high-altitude climbing. The 35-year-old climber from Aliabad, Hunza in Gilgit-Baltistan completed the climb in true alpine style, with minimal gear, no fixed ropes or camps set by Sherpas, and no oxygen support. With this achievement, Sirbaz now joins an elite group of mountaineers worldwide who have completed all 14 of the world's 'eight-thousanders', including Everest (8,848m), K2 (8,611m), Kangchenjunga (8,586m), Lhotse (8,516m), Makalu (8,485m), Cho Oyu (8,188m), Dhaulagiri (8,167m), Manaslu (8,163m), Nanga Parbat (8,126m), Annapurna I (8,091m), Gasherbrum I (8,080m), Broad Peak (8,051m), Gasherbrum II (8,035m), and Shishapangma (8,027m). Mountaineer Shehroze creates history Alpine Club of Pakistan Secretary Karrar Haidri confirmed the summit and lauded the climber's unparalleled commitment. 'With this summit, Sirbaz Khan becomes the first Pakistani to climb all 14 highest peaks without oxygen. It is a rare and historic milestone. He has made the entire nation proud,' Haidri said. Sirbaz began his climbing career in 2016, and over the past decade has built a reputation for resilience, skill, and courage. He has been part of multiple major expeditions, including four alongside the late Muhammad Ali Sadpara, the legendary Pakistani climber whose dream was also to summit all 14 peaks. Speaking ahead of his successful Dhaulagiri expedition last year, Sirbaz had paid tribute to his mentor: 'I am looking forward to this expedition and reaching closer to the dream of my mentor Ali Sadpara, who had the similar dream of scaling the 14 highest peaks, but tragically lost his life earlier this year during a winter expedition on K-2.' Record number of climbers chase 14-peak dream in Tibet His latest feat has drawn congratulations from across the country, with climbers including Naila Kiani and Sajid Sadpara, as well as members of civil society and political leaders, commending his determination and contribution to Pakistan's mountaineering legacy. Sirbaz has long stated his mission is not only to raise the country's flag atop the highest mountains in the world, but also to inspire a new generation of climbers from Pakistan to dream big and embrace the spirit of adventure.
