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Telegraph
18-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Telegraph
The dos and don'ts of having a posh picnic
The spring/summer social season gets underway this week as the Chelsea Flower Show kicks off in London. Following hot on its heels will be the Cartier Queen's Cup, Royal Ascot and Henley Royal Regatta, among many other wonderful outdoor events. And this week, at least, the rain is holding off! If you're going to any of these and hosting friends too, you may want to up your picnic game. But there's no need to go full silver service, which frankly looks a bit naff these days. Instead, a mix of traditional crockery and practical, easy-to-serve dishes is the order of the day. Here, chefs Skye Gyngell and José Pizarro, who are collaborating at the Chelsea Flower Show pop-up restaurant Spring Garden, share their tips on how to put together a posh picnic. Posh doesn't have to mean expensive or fussy 'A salad of cooked beans – perhaps cannellini or borlotti – with olive oil, lemon zest, a touch of garlic, and plenty of herbs like parsley or dill is wonderful,' says Skye. 'I lean towards ingredients that hold their shape and improve in flavour as they sit. 'Beetroot is another favourite: roasted, then dressed with red wine vinegar, a little honey, and tossed with walnuts or goat's cheese. Grains like farro or barley also make a lovely base, carrying the flavours of seasonal vegetables and fresh herbs beautifully. 'I always gravitate towards dishes that are vibrant and unfussy. Something like smoked trout with noodles and chilli sauce that is deeply flavoured yet light, or a salad of broad beans, peas, spinach, cucumber, feta and purple basil that brings freshness. And I can't resist a crunchy summer slaw, using the best of what's in season – kale, carrot, beetroot, sour cherries, almonds, and a splash of balsamic work beautifully. Skye also recommends her poached chicken salad: 'Poach a whole chicken with garlic and thyme until tender. Once cooled, shred the meat and layer it over crisp iceberg lettuce. Sweet carrot and celery can add crunch, while toasted almonds bring richness. Finish the salad with a scattering of fragrant lovage. A bright dressing of extra virgin olive oil, lemon, and a touch of salt ties everything together – add this right before serving.' José agrees: 'Of course, I'm Spanish, so I would have a big plate of Jamón Ibérico, cheese, empanadas. You can also have skewers with vegetables, escalivada, and marinated chicken thighs. Bring a whole salmon with plenty of herbs and tomato salads. Growing up, we would have a Russian salad with potatoes, peas and carrots. 'You can pre-prepare a gazpacho or salmorejo and have it in the freezer. Preserved lemons are easy to make and great for salads or with cheese, cold meats, because of their saltiness. 'I used to have Spanish tortilla {potato omelette} with my parents, who were farmers, in Spain [José is from Extremadura]. You can make that in advance. One dish that is quite sentimental is chicken escalope. I remember when I was small, sitting outside looking after the animals and eating it. My mum had made it with flour, egg and breadcrumbs. I adore that.' Do use shop-bought – as long as it's quality Skye says: 'Perello olives are a favourite of mine – they are bright, briny, and full of character. A bag of really good quality crisps and perhaps a beautiful aioli from your local deli can turn even the simplest picnic into something special. And I can't recommend fresh sourdough bread enough – at Heckfield Home Farm's produce sales, we offer freshly baked loaves.' José agrees: 'Bring some olives – maybe deep fried and stuffed with manchego. And good, unsliced bread. You can just tear it apart at the picnic. And a tin of anchovies.' Don't forget about the temperature of meats and cheeses Skye says: 'Having a good picnic really comes down to keeping things cool and properly wrapped. For meats, I always pack them in a well-insulated cooler with plenty of ice packs — especially if they're cured or cooked ahead. You want to keep them at a safe temperature, but also protect their flavour and texture. With cheese, I avoid wrapping it in plastic – beeswax wraps or parchment are much better, as they let it breathe. And I always transport cheese in a cool bag, but let it come to room temperature just before serving. That way it's not sweaty or soggy, just soft enough and tasting as it should.' José adds: 'One cheese that does travel well is Torta del Casar. It's hard outside, soft inside, and you can serve it with croutons or bread. It looks good and is indulgent.' Do use what's in your garden Skye says: 'I always encourage people to grow what feels joyful and manageable—it should be a pleasure, not a chore. Tender herbs are a great starting point: chervil, tarragon, dill, and marjoram bring such freshness to dishes. Soft salad leaves like rocket, mustard frills, and sorrel add beautiful peppery and citrus notes. Edible flowers are wonderful for both flavour and beauty—nasturtiums for their gentle spice, violas for a soft sweetness, and borage with its lovely cucumber taste. 'If you have the space, grow a few heritage tomatoes or courgettes. Their flavour, fresh from the garden, is incomparable. 'Most recently I've been noticing more people gravitating towards pickled and fermented elements that bring a bright, lively note to dishes, whether it's quick-pickled cucumbers or a little sauerkraut tucked into sandwiches.' José says: 'I have a small patio, growing lemon verbena. Put it in your salad, then mix with edible flowers. It's pretty, but I always say if you put something in the food, you need to think of colours, flavours and textures too. I like very peppery leaves like rocket and crunchy lettuce leaves like oreja de burro or donkey's ear.' Don't bring mayonnaise – or anything that wilts 'Make your own dressing,' says José. 'Bring a small bottle of extra virgin olive oil.' Skye agrees. 'Add something simple like lemon and a touch of mustard – and shake it in a jam jar upright before serving. 'I tend to avoid foods that wilt, melt, or spoil easily in the warmth. Anything overly creamy or rich may not travel well or feel appealing outdoors. I'd also steer clear of complicated dishes that require last-minute assembly or are fussy to eat. A picnic should be generous, simple, and relaxed.' Don't use paper plates or plastics where possible 'I always prefer to use proper plates and cutlery, even when dining outdoors,' says Skye. It not only minimises waste, which is so important, but it also elevates the whole experience.' 'Paper plates and plastic are a no-no,' says José. 'It's about proper glasses, cutlery, proper plates, even bamboo ones. 'A beautiful tablecloth and proper napkins make it even more special. You could also use something from your grandparents, an heirloom. Make it comfortable with chairs, cushions and a table. And if you can, bring a bunch of beautiful seasonal flowers.' Do think about sustainability when transporting food Skye says: 'I like to keep things simple and practical, but always with a touch of beauty. I tend to use sturdy baskets to transport everything – they prevent things from sliding around and look lovely when you arrive. For the food itself, I prefer reusable containers and waxed cloth wraps rather than foil or clingfilm wherever possible. They keep things fresh without too much waste. If a dish is particularly delicate, I'll sometimes nestle it into a tin or a ceramic dish with a lid.' José agrees. 'Always use glass containers for packing, as it is more sustainable. Use muslin for wrapping your bread. Clingfilm is a no-no for me. It's very important to make sure everything is sealed and don't pack anything when it is hot. Plus, make sure any pre-prepared dishes are defrosted.' Do amp up the drinks 'I love homemade cordials – elderflower or rhubarb and sweet cicely – with sparkling water,' says Skye. 'For something a little stronger, a well-chilled rosé or a simple white wine works beautifully outdoors.' José adds, like a true Spaniard: 'Cava or Sangria is always good. Don't go for an Aperol Spritz, it's too complicated. Cava is value for money and no Prosecco! It's too sweet.' Or there's always Pimm's, of course! And finally… Do think about wildlife and potential food thieves José says: 'Outside once with my partner Peter [Meades], we had made beautiful lamb cutlets. We went into the kitchen briefly and the seagulls bloody took all of them – and they were hot!' Do have a backup plan Skye says: 'Maybe it's my Australian upbringing, but I've always felt there's a certain temperature it needs to be for people to feel truly relaxed. So, don't hesitate to move things undercover if the weather turns. A picnic isn't meant to be a battle with the elements.' Don't forget dessert 'I like a lot of fruit,' says José. 'Strawberries, cherries, or roasted peaches with honey and lavender from the garden.' Skye adds: 'Or you can bring a lovely cake with seasonal jams.' Don't forget to enjoy it! 'Our senses are more alive when we're in nature, which allows us to be more present,' says Skye. 'I think that can make even the simplest food feel more delicious, more memorable.' José agrees. 'Picnics are about not being in a hurry, not being stressed. In Spain, we have some music too. I love jazz or flamenco when I'm setting everything up, maybe Paco de Lucia or Camarón de la Isla. It's all about being with the people you like and creating memories. Everything tastes better when it's sunny.' Open during RHS Chelsea Flower Show from May 20 to 24, Spring Garden is a collaboration between luxury London caterer AP&Co and celebrity chef Skye Gyngell, with renowned restaurateur José Pizarro joining the team for 2025. To book your tickets visit:
Times
07-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Times
Six best lemon recipes from Sardinia
'T he first lemon I fell in love with was made of plastic and lived on the top shelf of my grandmother's refrigerator,' Letitia Clark recalls. 'It came out on special occasions or, more precisely, for prawn cocktails and pancakes.' Now that she lives in Sardinia, the chef, who trained with Skye Gyngell at Spring and Sam and Sam Clark at Moro, reaches for her favourite citrus fruit in all her cooking, whether to brighten an otherwise dull plate of food or to add a summery fragrance to a pudding. 'Even now after seven years in Italy, I still delight at the sight of a lemon — more so a lemon with leaves,' she says. Letitia Clark with her husband, Lorenzo, and their son CHARLOTTE BLAND Her latest book, For the Love of Lemons, is full
The Guardian
02-05-2025
- Business
- The Guardian
‘A younger crowd': the rise of Britain's early-bird restaurant dining
Previously sitting down for dinner at 5pm usually meant one of three things. You were going to the theatre. You had a toddler. You were of an age where you had a free bus pass. But now we are becoming a nation of early birds; 5pm is the new 8pm and restaurants are adapting accordingly. Special early-evening menus are on the rise. At Skye Gyngell's Spring restaurant in Covent Garden, a £30 'scratch' menu – featuring dishes made using waste produce such as a moreish bread-and-butter pudding made from yesterday's loaves – is served between 5.30pm and 6.15pm. Over at Bulrush in Bristol, which opened in 2015 and has held a Michelin star since 2018, diners can enjoy a mini version of its signature tasting menu three days a week at 5.30pm. Instead of £90 for nine courses, you pay £65 for six. The Portland in London, which has held a Michelin star since 2015, offers four courses for £55 between 5.30pm and 6.30pm. Its standard post-6.30pm tasting menu will set you back a steep £110 while a three course meal from its à la carte costs £89. Daniel Morgenthau, co-founder of the Woodhead restaurant group, which operates five restaurants including the Portland, said they originally planned to run the early menu for a month in January to celebrate its 10-year anniversary. Thanks to its popularity, six months on it has become a firm fixture. The cost of living is one of the factors driving demand. Morgenthau describes the Portland menu, which changes monthly, as 'striking a really nice balance between providing the full Portland experience and a lower price point'. George Livesey, chef and founder of Bulrush, said that prior to 2020 his 8pm tables were taken for casual dining by 'a much younger crowd' than now. Nowadays 90% were booked for special occasions. Part of the reason he introduced his earlier and cheaper menu was to attract the younger demographic back. 'This gives people a chance to experience a decent Michelin-sized tasting menu at a not outrageous price point,' Livesey said. Even east London hipsters are embracing toddler dining times. At Silo, the world's first zero-waste restaurant in Hackney Wick, 6pm diners can opt for an abbreviated version of its full tasting menu. At Pophams in London Fields, a 6pm booking gets you a £30 three-course set menu featuring dishes such as goat's cheese ravioli and an apple crumble croissant from its bakery. The trend is also having a knock-on effect on pre-dinner drinking. The Firmdale group, which includes London's the Covent Garden hotel, has introduced a Martini hour. From 5pm to 6pm it serves them shaken or stirred – with free chips. Hybrid working is another driving factor. Since January, OpenTable, an online reservation site, has seen a 6% rise in bookings for tables between 4pm and 6pm in Britain. Morgenthau describes the 5.30pm slot as 'busier than ever' across his group. The TWaT trend (Tuesday to Thursday in-office work) has also resulted in the traditional end-of-week dinner moving to Thursday. 'We get a lot of couples that come into central London to work,' Morgenthau said. 'They want to meet up before heading home but don't want to be out too late.' This week Livesey had a customer who flagged on their 5.30pm booking that they needed to leave by 8pm to catch a train home. Morgenthau said: 'What creates a good atmosphere in a restaurant isn't the time. The lovely hum comes from having a full room.' It seems nowadays you're more likely to find that before 8pm.
