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Economic Times
14-07-2025
- Business
- Economic Times
Prada vs Kolhapuri chappals: Controversies around cultural appropriation highlight need for increased GI tagging in India
Over the last few weeks, Indian heritage and culture came into sharp focus in global fashion circles. First, the good bit. French luxury label Louis Vuitton had models walk down a striking Snakes & Ladders-themed runway designed by renowned Indian architect Bijoy Jain. It was on point for the brand that had titled its Spring-Summer 2026 Men's Collection 'A Voyage to India'. But just a few days before that, in Milan on June 22, controversy struck when Italian luxury house Prada sent male models strutting in open-toe leather sandals 'inspired' by traditional Kolhapuri chappals. They did so without crediting Kolhapuri artisans for the inspiration. The furore that followed led to Prada admitting its mistake. The company then held discussions with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA) and said it has plans to send a delegation to Kolhapur to explore a potential collaboration. But the reality is that the whole shebang is nothing new, and the development that has come about as a result of the Prada controversy is rare. From designs to dishes, from paintings to pottery, and from tea to rice, Indian origin goods have found themselves at the receiving end of imitation over many Phyllida Jay, in her book Inspired by India, writes about India's role in global design from the 1600s to the present and raises concerns about colonial exploitation and cultural that is troubling enough, artisans and craftspeople are deprived of credit and dignified livelihood even as large companies, both Indian and international, monetise these individuals under luxury labels. One of the ways used to protect items from such issues is the Geographical Indication (GI) tag, a global system of labelling used on products that have a specific geographical origin and possess qualities or a reputation due to that origin. India has been using the tool to push back on plenty of products, but the latest round of controversies shows a need to raise the pitch and enforce such regulations. It also shows the need to add more Indian craftsmanship to the list of GI-protected items. According to the World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO), 'From a total of 86 national and regional authorities, there were an estimated 58,600 protected GIs in existence in 2023.' More than half that number is in the EU. India has 643 registered GIs. France has 681 just in food and beverages. For comparison, India is about six times the size of France by land area, and has 21 times more people. The Sant Rohidas Leather Industries & Charmakar Development Corporation Ltd (LIDCOM) jointly holds the Geographical Indication (GI) rights for Kolhapuri chappals with Karnataka's LIDKAR. Initial silence was broken by the brand only after things might have been even tougher if it were not for its GI its IP and heritage is something India is lagging behind in. Since 1990, India has cumulatively paid $100.8 billion while receiving only $11 billion in IP receipts — a net $90 billion deficit, according to an op-ed in ET. Expert Speak India's GI Act (1999) protects registered heritage goods like Kolhapuris domestically — but not globally. Even within India, unless the GI name is used in commercial communication, legal recourse is limited. Borrowing a silhouette isn't illegal. But calling something Kolhapuri without authorisation could be considered passing off. Internationally, however, we need bilateral trade agreements or global trademark registration for better protection — like in the case of Darjeeling Tea. —Priyanka Khimani, IP Lawyer. A lot of inspiration is taken by Indian designers, chefs, musicians and others from cultures across the world. In fact, I believe cultures evolve by taking inspiration from each other. We should give credit to where it belongs. Unfair practices should be avoided. — Toolika Gupta, Director, Indian Institute Of Crafts & Design It really comes down to the history of colonialism, power, and how we define cultural influence and borrowing. There's a difference between crosscultural design inspiration and stealing, and the sense of this is amplified when India is a country with a colonial history that saw its own textile industry dismantled by systemic forces. Added to that, we still have a global regime of value, whereby an international luxury brand can assert the value of something based on the idea of Italian or French 'prestige' even if the design inspiration or production is Indian. In the specific case of the Kolhapuri chappal, it has GI status and is ineluctably linked to particular communities and their craft traditions. Especially given that Prada's beautiful 'Made in India' collection was created with Chennai-based artisans in 2012. Regardless of whether this product would be for commercial sale or not, it's absolutely mystifying why Prada didn't work directly with artisans, with clear communication from its press team that this would have been 'appreciation'. Instead, it literally copied the chappals, with no acknowledgement, to add a cliched element of 'bohemian flair' to a rather flat menswear collection. — Phyllida Jay, anthropologist, fashion scholar and author My family — all 12 of us — has been making Kolhapuri chappals for the last 20 years. Our business, Abhishek Footwear, mainly sells through exhibitions and locally in the city. One chappal can take up to 16 hours or two days to produce. We manage to sell a few thousand pairs each year. Depending on the design, a pair can cost anywhere between `500 and `10,000. But every monsoon, our work comes to a standstill. Even putting food on the table becomes a struggle. When I was told that Prada's version of the Kolhapuri could fetch `1 lakh, I couldn't help but laugh — bitterly. This is why our karigar is dying. — Raviraj Kamble, Kolhapuri artisan
Time of India
12-07-2025
- Business
- Time of India
Prada vs Kolhapuri chappals: Controversies around cultural appropriation highlight need for increased GI tagging in India
Over the last few weeks, Indian heritage and culture came into sharp focus in global fashion circles. First, the good bit. French luxury label Louis Vuitton had models walk down a striking Snakes & Ladders-themed runway designed by renowned Indian architect Bijoy Jain. It was on point for the brand that had titled its Spring-Summer 2026 Men's Collection ' A Voyage to India '. But just a few days before that, in Milan on June 22, controversy struck when Italian luxury house Prada sent male models strutting in open-toe leather sandals 'inspired' by traditional Kolhapuri chappals. They did so without crediting Kolhapuri artisans for the inspiration. The furore that followed led to Prada admitting its mistake. The company then held discussions with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA) and said it has plans to send a delegation to Kolhapur to explore a potential collaboration. But the reality is that the whole shebang is nothing new, and the development that has come about as a result of the Prada controversy is rare. From designs to dishes, from paintings to pottery, and from tea to rice, Indian origin goods have found themselves at the receiving end of imitation over many years. ET Bureau Anthropologist Phyllida Jay, in her book Inspired by India, writes about India's role in global design from the 1600s to the present and raises concerns about colonial exploitation and cultural appropriation. While that is troubling enough, artisans and craftspeople are deprived of credit and dignified livelihood even as large companies, both Indian and international, monetise these individuals under luxury labels. Live Events One of the ways used to protect items from such issues is the Geographical Indication (GI) tag, a global system of labelling used on products that have a specific geographical origin and possess qualities or a reputation due to that origin. ET Bureau India has been using the tool to push back on plenty of products, but the latest round of controversies shows a need to raise the pitch and enforce such regulations. It also shows the need to add more Indian craftsmanship to the list of GI-protected items. According to the World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO), 'From a total of 86 national and regional authorities, there were an estimated 58,600 protected GIs in existence in 2023.' More than half that number is in the EU. India has 643 registered GIs. France has 681 just in food and beverages. For comparison, India is about six times the size of France by land area, and has 21 times more people. The Sant Rohidas Leather Industries & Charmakar Development Corporation Ltd (LIDCOM) jointly holds the Geographical Indication (GI) rights for Kolhapuri chappals with Karnataka's LIDKAR. Initial silence was broken by the brand only after backlash. But things might have been even tougher if it were not for its GI tag. ET Bureau Safeguarding its IP and heritage is something India is lagging behind in. Since 1990, India has cumulatively paid $100.8 billion while receiving only $11 billion in IP receipts — a net $90 billion deficit, according to an op-ed in ET. Expert Speak India's GI Act (1999) protects registered heritage goods like Kolhapuris domestically — but not globally. Even within India, unless the GI name is used in commercial communication, legal recourse is limited. Borrowing a silhouette isn't illegal. But calling something Kolhapuri without authorisation could be considered passing off. Internationally, however, we need bilateral trade agreements or global trademark registration for better protection — like in the case of Darjeeling Tea. —Priyanka Khimani, IP Lawyer. A lot of inspiration is taken by Indian designers, chefs, musicians and others from cultures across the world. In fact, I believe cultures evolve by taking inspiration from each other. We should give credit to where it belongs. Unfair practices should be avoided. — Toolika Gupta, Director, Indian Institute Of Crafts & Design It really comes down to the history of colonialism, power, and how we define cultural influence and borrowing. There's a difference between crosscultural design inspiration and stealing, and the sense of this is amplified when India is a country with a colonial history that saw its own textile industry dismantled by systemic forces. Added to that, we still have a global regime of value, whereby an international luxury brand can assert the value of something based on the idea of Italian or French 'prestige' even if the design inspiration or production is Indian. In the specific case of the Kolhapuri chappal, it has GI status and is ineluctably linked to particular communities and their craft traditions. Especially given that Prada's beautiful 'Made in India' collection was created with Chennai-based artisans in 2012. Regardless of whether this product would be for commercial sale or not, it's absolutely mystifying why Prada didn't work directly with artisans, with clear communication from its press team that this would have been 'appreciation'. Instead, it literally copied the chappals, with no acknowledgement, to add a cliched element of 'bohemian flair' to a rather flat menswear collection. — Phyllida Jay, anthropologist, fashion scholar and author My family — all 12 of us — has been making Kolhapuri chappals for the last 20 years. Our business, Abhishek Footwear, mainly sells through exhibitions and locally in the city. One chappal can take up to 16 hours or two days to produce. We manage to sell a few thousand pairs each year. Depending on the design, a pair can cost anywhere between `500 and `10,000. But every monsoon, our work comes to a standstill. Even putting food on the table becomes a struggle. When I was told that Prada's version of the Kolhapuri could fetch `1 lakh, I couldn't help but laugh — bitterly. This is why our karigar is dying. — Raviraj Kamble, Kolhapuri artisan
Time of India
08-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Time of India
Copy vs credit on global runway: Prada slammed, LV applauded; Pharrell's India-inspired show gets it right
As Prada continues to face criticism over its Kolhapuri chappal-inspired sandals, the broader fashion world is grappling with how to engage with Indian aesthetics without falling into appropriation. The Italian label was called out on social media and by industry insiders for using a design closely resembling India's traditional Kolhapuri footwear, without crediting the original artisans or cultural roots. The backlash has reignited long-standing concerns over luxury brands profiting from Indian heritage while erasing its origin stories. Louis Vuitton takes a different route In sharp contrast, Louis Vuitton's recent Spring/Summer 2026 men's show in Paris is being hailed as a masterclass in how to collaborate with, rather than co-opt, Indian culture. As reported by The Economic Times, Pharrell Williams , LV's Men's Creative Director, drew deeply from his week, long trip to India in March, which took him to New Delhi, Mumbai and Jaipur. The result was an immersive runway experience at the Centre Pompidou on June 24, titled Paris to India. The show's references were deliberate and credited. The Snakes & Ladders-themed runway was conceptualised by Indian architect Bijoy Jain. The music was scored by Oscar-winning composer AR Rahman. The collection incorporated Indian textiles and traditional silhouettes, presented with transparency about their sources. by Taboola by Taboola Sponsored Links Sponsored Links Promoted Links Promoted Links You May Like 척추관협착증으로 걷기 힘들다면, 비수술 치료로 통증 개선 가능, 보존적 치료부터 시작해보세요! 제일정형외과병원 더 알아보기 Undo A growing, assertive luxury market The timing is not coincidental. India's luxury market is rapidly expanding, it's valued at $17 billion and projected to hit $85 billion by 2030. Luxury houses including Dior, Gucci, and Valentino have already started designing India, specific collections or staging shows in the country. Dior's 2023 pre-fall show in Mumbai, in partnership with the Chanakya School of Craft, was another notable example of this shift. A symbolic gesture Pharrell closed the show in a simple gesture that resonated with many. He walked the runway in track shorts, folded his hands in a namaste, and bowed. The collection itself reflected India's diverse palette, with colours named turmeric, cinnamon, and 'coffee indigo'. As Pharrell said backstage to fashion journal WWD, the collection was inspired by 'the multifaceted sensibilities of present-day Indian sartorialism. ' Stay informed with the latest business news, updates on bank holidays and public holidays . AI Masterclass for Students. Upskill Young Ones Today!– Join Now
Time of India
07-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Time of India
Step away Prada, make way for Pharrell Williams as Desi ambassador
Mumbai: In the midst of the Prada-Kolhapuri chappal furore, the recent Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2026 show has been lauded for taking Indian inspiration through a truly global fashion route. Pharrell Williams , LV Men's creative director, turned his seven-day India visit in March-to New Delhi, Mumbai and Jaipur-into an immersive fashion moment at Paris's Centre Pompidou on June 24. From a Snakes & Ladders-themed runway conceptualised by architect Bijoy Jain to collaborating with music legend AR Rahman for the show's soundtrack, and a collection steeped in Indian craftsmanship , LV's show was all about respect and strategy. Every collaborator was acknowledged and credited. Dubai-based fashion writer Sujata Assomull, who tracks India's impact on the global luxury landscape, says that the message here was clear: India is no longer the distant muse or the luxury world's afterthought. "The Louis Vuitton show with Pharrell has been one of the most positive moves by a European house to talk about India's important role in global material culture," says Assomull. It's in stark contrast to the Prada-Kolhapuri controversy, where the fashion house has faced backlash for not giving credit where it's due. Gayatri Khanna, who is the chief executive of Milaaya Embroideries-an atelier headquartered in Mumbai but with offices in New York, Paris, Milan and London - has been talking about a Made in India tag. The company caters to several luxury houses across the globe. Hermes now puts the Made in India' tag on its ponchos, scarves and rugs. "When powerhouses like Louis Vuitton and Dior spotlight their Indian collaborators and inspirations, they don't just set a trend, but they help shift an entire industry's mindset," says Khanna. She calls Williams's show as significant for its visual homage to India and for publicly crediting the Indian artisans and ateliers involved. Brands like Dior have begun to understand this. Its collaboration with the Chanakya School of Craft in Mumbai signalled a celebration of Indian embroidery, as well as the community behind them, evident in their 2023 pre-fall show in Mumbai. Luxury brands have been wooing Indian customers, with Jimmy Choo, Christian Louboutin and even Valentino launching special edits. Gucci released limited edition 'Made for India' capsule collections back in 2011, the same year that Hermes released 28 saris for this market. Jean Paul Gaultier showed his love affair with India during his 2017 show at Paris Haute Couture Week, where he presented sari-inspired drapes. The recent inspiration was Alia Bhatt's Gucci lehenga-sari that she wore to Cannes this year. Williams, meanwhile, loves India. That was evident as he walked at the end of the show in track shorts and sweats, hands folded in a namaste to acknowledge the applause. Aptly called 'Paris to India', Williams was inspired by "the multifaceted sensibilities of present-day Indian sartorialism". The LV creative head said he was inspired by India's "colours". "You'll see turmeric. You'll see cinnamon. You'll see 'coffee indigo' denim," he told the fashion journal WWD backstage. For years, India's storied craftsmanship remained uncredited-often seen only as a workshop or as an exotic muse. But now, economic growth, digital adoption, younger clientele, growing appetite for luxury and an assertive consumer are powering it. India's luxury market, currently estimated at $17 billion, is forecast to reach $85 billion by 2030. Reliance Brands, with international luxury brands like Zegna, Canali, Tiffany & Co, Valentino, Tod's, Versace and Bottega Veneta, feels that the Indian consumer is no longer a passive recipient-they're informed and co-authoring the luxury narrative. An RBL spokesperson told ET: "Every detail of the LV show reflected a genuine intent to engage, not appropriate. And that's largely because Pharrell visited India; he listened, observed, absorbed nuance, and it showed. Cultural fluency like that isn't drawn from a mood board; it comes from true immersion."
