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The Soul Of Southern Food
The Soul Of Southern Food

Forbes

time4 days ago

  • General
  • Forbes

The Soul Of Southern Food

Trays and butcher paper with variety of barbecue The ingredients and cooking techniques of the South are fundamental to the overall American food scene as we know it. Whether is it BBQ, stews or indulgent desserts, so much of what the current American food experience is still relates to the south. It is also common knowledge that some of the best cooks down there are also taking strides to produce the same amazing flavors that are cleaner, healthier and more relevant today. There is something primal in confronting a state that has had such a troubling health and poverty problems and see it emerging--at least culinarily--out of the belly of the beast. In historical and political terms it might still take more time. So--foodwise--the traditional flavors are still here, although they have been jazzed up and sometimes made in a healthier style. It is hard for anyone person to try to encapsulate how food has evolved over the decades in a region, but I think I found a good emissary in Scott Jackson, the chef and owner of Jackson, Mississippi's Pig & Pint restaurant. I had the pleasure of meeting him at the JXN Food & Wine Festival—which brought together chefs from all over the state—in none-other-than Jackson, Mississippi. All answers have been edited and condensed for clarity. The bacon melt sandwich. Scott Jackson (SJ): Ingredients consist of anything we can grow or raise here, which is pretty much everything as we have a long growing season in a sub-tropical climate. Due to the effects of the Civil War, we learned to make food from alternative ingredients. For instance, wheat was unavailable as it doesn't grow here, so bread was made from cornmeal. As for BBQ, smoking meats might be the oldest form of cooking throughout history and widely embraced by the common man as a delicacy they could easily prepare - harvest an animal from your farm or the forest and cook it slowly over a wood fire: caveman stuff. There is also a heavy African influence in our cooking. BBQ tacos with crunch. S.J.: Mississippi's geography influences ingredients. The Gulf Coast region will feature more seafood while the rest of the state utilizes more freshwater fish. Also, the coastal region has more French, Italian and African fusion influences. There is a fair smattering of Asian (mostly Chinese and Vietnamese) communities throughout the state and there is a deep history of Chinese culture in the Delta region. I find that our ancestors did more stewing of vegetables than roasting. So, I have improved on what I learned from my grandmothers. Generally speaking, our state has evolved as Americans have learned more about healthy eating, including using organic ingredients. A high-high pulled pork sandwich. S.J.: I find that the vegetarian era is mostly a thing of the past here as we are learning that the food pyramid we were taught was a bunch of hooey. People are getting back to cooking with tallow and butter and eating more eggs and meat than in recent decades. The chef is based in Jackson, MS. S.J.: BBQ and the usual sides pair nicely with more fruit-forward styles of wine. California Zinfandel is my go-to for BBQ. But, other wines like Spanish Garnacha, Primitivo from Puglia, Rhône reds or even some of the richer Russian River Pinot Noirs work as well. S.J.: Vegetables have always been an important part of Mississippi food. Being a rural and mostly poor state, many people—certainly in the past—would often eat meals comprised of only locally grown vegetables some of which were seasoned with meat trimmings.

Old-school comfort with a modern twist: Salmon croquettes make a savory comeback
Old-school comfort with a modern twist: Salmon croquettes make a savory comeback

Yahoo

time31-05-2025

  • Health
  • Yahoo

Old-school comfort with a modern twist: Salmon croquettes make a savory comeback

The other day, I decided to revert to a childhood favorite for dinner. Salmon croquettes were a monthly staple that is so old school it's hip again. My Grandmother made them regularly for our evening meal and if we were lucky, there was a leftover or two for lunch the following day. Traditionally, croquettes were much fancier than we used to enjoy. By the simplest definition, it is a savory mixture of finely minced meat and some vegetables shaped into balls or cylinders and fried. That part is identical to ours except for the shape. However, the binder that held that mixture together was most often a thick version of bechamel sauce. That's where my Southern road forks, because we used either dry breadcrumbs or crushed saltine crackers and an egg. Of course, it was fried in bacon fat back in the day, but these days, I'm most likely to use the air fryer or skillet, with just a light coating of canola oil. It's enough to make the biggest skeptic salivate. Although we called them croquettes, ours were patties because they were flattened like burgers. I still do it that way and occasionally make them as burger substitutes served on small Hawaiian buns. Salmon has come a long way from the large red cans that used to contain bits and pieces of skin and bones. Those large cans have given way to smaller 5-ounce cans. Although it may still occasionally contain a small pin bone, the high temperature of the canning process makes it soft and edible. Just like tuna, canned salmon is fully cooked, but that doesn't mean it can't be fancied up by mixing and making it into a patty. I like serving it with some fresh dill and black pepper-enhanced Greek yogurt. Kiki asks, 'For some reason, I routinely end up with too much fat in my gravy. Is there any easy way to remove some before I serve it?' Kiki, If you have time, allow the gravy to cool and skim off the fat that forms on the top. Then reheat. If you don't have time, pour it through a sieve that contains ice cubes. The fat will cling to the ice cubes and solidify, making it easy to remove. Tammy Algood is the author of five cookbooks and can be seen on 'Volunteer Gardener' on PBS stations in Tennessee. Follow her at This article originally appeared on Southern Kitchen: Salmon croquettes make a comeback with a modern southern twist

Marlow East Brings Southern Charm Uptown
Marlow East Brings Southern Charm Uptown

New York Times

time27-05-2025

  • Business
  • New York Times

Marlow East Brings Southern Charm Uptown

Opening The South comes from the kitchen of Braxton Decker, a Virginian whose new restaurant is owned by the restaurateurs Elena and Dragan Ristovski, of Marlow Bistro on the Upper West Side. They bring Virginia oysters, country ham and pimento cheese croquettes, buttermilk fried chicken (off-menu, but always available) and deviled eggs to a light-filled duplex space; the bar is on street level. The beverage director Kat Foster, who has worked with the chef, devises drinks that sing of the South with elements like honey-butter-washed whiskey. (Opens Sunday) 1022 Lexington Avenue (73rd Street), 646-767-0123, Defying its underground location with effective lighting, Blue Peak Villa is a showcase for dishes said to hearken back to the Qing Dynasty, China's rulers from 1644 until 1912. The family of the executive chef, Jian Wu, cooked for an empress; he is serving aromatic Yunnan chicken with mashed potatoes, flamed golden eggs finished tableside, and caramelized pork ribs with black vinegar. On street level with a separate entrance (175 East Houston Street), there's Zhong Guo Xiao Long Bao, for soup dumplings, spicy wontons and noodle dishes. 200 Allen Street (East Houston Street), 917-717-1976, LDV Hospitality and the chef here, Francesco Battisti, can be forgiven for including trenette al pesto, a standard from a province well north of Rome, on a menu in an all-day restaurant that otherwise turns its focus on the Imperial city. Featured are pastas like cacio e pepe, carbonara and amatriciana, and also puntarelle salad, artichokes Roman style, pinsa pizzas, and lamb chops scottadito. Sleek décor with geometric pops of color define the former As You Are restaurant space. Ace Hotel Brooklyn, 252 Schermerhorn Street (Bond Street), Boerum Hill, Brooklyn, 718-313-3636, The four-year old restaurant run by the chef, Felipe Donnelly, and his wife, Tamy Rofe of Colonia Verde in Brooklyn, has undergone a refresh and has reopened with a new Latin American bistro menu (sea bream ceviche, spaghetti a la Huancaina) and brighter décor more focused on Latin America. Freehand Hotel New York, 23 Lexington Avenue (23rd Street), 212-475-1924, Italian Twinkies? Except that the rich filling oozes from the split top and isn't tunneled as with the Hostess snack cake, it's a close call. For Bauli, a company in Verona, Italy, that has been in business for more than 100 years and has been baking these since 2017, this is its first storefront and bakery in the United States. They are baked on premises and filled to order with creams in various flavors, plus toppings. 866 Broadway (18th Street), 646-368-9217, Want all of The Times? Subscribe.

The 20 Best New Restaurants In The South, According To Our Editors
The 20 Best New Restaurants In The South, According To Our Editors

Yahoo

time26-05-2025

  • Yahoo

The 20 Best New Restaurants In The South, According To Our Editors

Cobia Schnitzel. Tonka Bean Flan. Olive Oil Pancakes with Labneh. Catfish Frites. These dishes from this year's crop of best new restaurants proves that food in the South gets more diverse and delicious with each passing year. It's tough to keep up with the never-ending list of openings in our region, let alone narrow it down to a few favorites. These 20 places (listed in no particular order) served up some of our editors' most memorable meals, from standout Gulf seafood in Birmingham, to an ambitious tasting menu in rural Georgia, to a dessert-only spot in Asheville. Cheers to all of the establishments on the restaurants were picked by the editors of Southern Living who report, research, and visit restaurants across the South. Oklahoma City, Oklahoma When Perle Mesta opened in the Skirvin Hotel last summer, it was a full-circle moment for chef-owner Andrew Black, who moved to Oklahoma City in 2007 to run the dining program at the hotel. Nearly two decades and three restaurants later (including one that earned him a James Beard Award for Best Chef Southwest in 2023), Black has more than proven himself as one of the city's best talents. His latest venture shows off the best of his culinary creativity, which he credits largely to his Indo-Jamaican upbringing. Black's self-titled 'possibility cuisine" pushes the boundaries of cultures and flavors and draws inspiration from his global travels. The restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, dinner, Sunday brunch, and bar bites. Expect delights like Parmesan and truffle fried okra with candied lamb belly or grilled milked bread with Iberico ham and rosemary garlic aioli to start your meal. Entrees range from Suya-dusted lamb rack with red cabbage veal jus, braised eggplant, and mung bean cream to brick-oven roast steak with annatto coconut peppercorn sauce. —Tara Massouleh McCay, Senior Travel and Culture Editor 1 Park Ave, Oklahoma City, OK 73102 Lake Worth Beach, Florida For years, Oceano Kitchen's inventive pastas, seasonal salads, and pizzas drew people from all over South Florida to the town of Lantana, even though the restaurant was small, cash-only, and didn't accept reservations. In 2023, it gained national recognition with a James Beard nomination, only to close later that year. Owners Jeremy and Cindy Bearman had a bigger vision for their concept, and now, after reopening in Lake Worth Beach last year, they finally have a space worthy of their outstanding food and skilled service. Like before, the menu changes constantly, but you'll find more options for fresh seafood (like local swordfish with sweet corn, tomatillo, lime crema, salsa macha, and peanuts) and an expanded dessert menu. Even better: Reservations and credit cards are now accepted. —Lisa Cericola, Deputy Editor 512 Lucerne Avenue, Lake Worth Beach, FL 33460 Richmond, Virginia When Richmonders first heard that a former craft beer joint in the city's Fan district would soon become an oyster and cocktail bar, more than a few locals struggled to see the vision. But from Beaucoup's opening day at the beginning of 2024, diners embraced the friendly, laidback atmosphere, the seasonal house cocktails, and small, curated menu. The Beaucoup team has a clear preference for Virginia seafood and the oyster chalkboard often exclusively features selections from places like Cape Charles, Virginia Beach, and Hungar's Creek. If you can find a seat, don't miss the restaurant's 'Happy Hour And a Half' when you can sample these local delicacies for just $1 a piece. The rest of the French-inspired menu has comforting dishes including a classic burger, catfish frites, and rotating specials like a softshell crab sandwich or scallop rolls. —Brennan Long, Social Media 111 N. Robinson St, Richmond, VA 23220 Houston, Texas Located in the Heights, this Houston cafe opened in March 2024 and specializes in Mexican pastries, from plump conchas topped with colorful sugar crusts to guava-and-cheese empanadas. Beyond typical espresso offerings you'll find specialties like the warm-spiced Horchata Latte, and a full range of hearty brunch dishes like the Puerco Mole Enchiladas, stuffed with tender roasted pork and smothered in a silky, earthy black mole. Heirloom corn is central to the menu and is featured in both handcrafted tortillas and tetelas. —Alana Al-Hatlani, Associate Food 5307 N Main St Suite 100, Houston, TX 77009 Gulfport, Mississippi Hidden inside the Hotel Vela in historic Gulfport, Mississippi, this tiki-themed speakeasy serves up more than bespoke cocktails. Their admirably robust menu indulges coastal cravings via seasonal oysters and Gulf shrimp while appeasing land lovers with steakhouse favorites and handmade pastas. Swanky and cool, it's a fun spot for early birds and night owls alike. —Josh Miller, Senior Food Editor 1409 24th Avenue, Gulfport, MS 39501 New Orleans, Louisiana This new addition to the Bywater neighborhood of New Orleans celebrates coastal Mexican cuisine with dishes like the Shrimp Costra, which envelops the chipotle-seasoned Gulf seafood in a crispy cheese crust; and Arroz Negro made with mussels and squid ink. Owned and operated by chef Ana Castro and her sister Lydia, the stylish space has limewashed walls and pink tile backsplashes. And while seafood is the focus, the Tonka Bean Flan is easily one of the best bites on the menu. —Alana Al-Hatlani 3070 Dauphine St, New Orleans, LA 70117 Atlanta, Georgia Located inside FORTH Atlanta, this serene spot opened last summer. Serving breakfast, dinner, and weekend brunch, chef Jonathan McDowell's menu leans Mediterranean with a selection of colorful hot and cold mezze dishes (butternut squash with tahini, Aleppo pepper, and pepitas; labneh with za'atar, dill oil, and radishes), grilled meats and seafood, and fluffy olive oil pancakes for brunch. The bright and breezy dining room looks out over the pool deck, so even if you're not a hotel guest, you'll still catch vacation vibes. —Lisa Cericola 800 Rankin Street, Atlanta, GA 30308 Birmingham, Alabama Opening a restaurant solely dedicated to seafood might seem risky. But when it's the freshest catch from the Gulf in the kitchen of chef Rob McDaniel, you're practically guaranteed a great meal. Bayonet opened in downtown Birmingham earlier this year and already has a local following for its extensive oyster-focused raw bar, ice cold martinis, and creative dishes like its Cobia Schnitzel and Swordfish Reuben sandwich. Even if you think you're full, don't miss the excellent Coconut Cream Pie. —Lisa Cericola 2015 2nd Ave North Birmingham, AL 35203 Asheville, North Carolina Opened in early 2024 in the South Slope Brewing District of Asheville, Good Hot Fish is a neighborhood seafood counter brimming with light and cheer. Order a Capri-Sun, perch on a stool, and swivel between watching the world go by and chef Ashleigh Shanti at the helm. Every detail is considered, down to the most straightforward dish on the menu and its namesake. Shanti's fish sticks are generously cut into thick strips. Dredged in benne seed, a landrace sesame native to West Africa and a nutty-sweet staple of Southern Lowcountry cuisine, they are golden, flaky, and fall-apart tender with mouthwatering flavor. Ask for extra refrigerator pickles on the side, which are crisp, refreshing, and singularly spicy.—Catherine Jessee 10 Buxton Ave, Asheville, NC 28801 Johns Island, South Carolina We named this open-air kitchen and dining room Restaurant of the Year in our 2025 South's Best awards. Lost Isle may have a laid-back feel but chef Josh Taylor is serious about live-fire cooking and has created a menu full of memorable dishes like harissa cauliflower steaks and braised collards with coconut milk. A menu of fun, tropical-inspired drinks only adds to the fun here. 3338 Maybank Highway, Johns Island, SC 29455 Asheville, North Carolina Serving up a unique blend of Modern Appalachian and Italian fare and located in the new Flat Iron Hotel, Luminosa is twinkly, warm, and inviting to locals and travelers. The menu effortlessly balances family favorites like wood-fired pizza and pasta with creatively fused influences, like traditional agnolotti with ham hock and cornbread crumbs. The menu changes frequently based on the seasons and local offerings, like Waynesville's Sunburst Trout, which is served on a bed of fregola and creme fraiche. If you are lucky enough to visit in April, you might find your dish dotted with bright pink redbud, a sign of the changing season in Appalachia. —Catherine Jessee 20 Battery Park Ave Floor 1, Asheville, NC 28801 New Orleans, Louisiana Named for an oft-neglected bycatch, Porgy's is both a seafood counter and restaurant in Mid-City, New Orleans focused on sustainability and supporting the local fishing industry. Guests can grab both whole fish and filets, gulf shrimp, and even crawfish (when in season) from the case, or dine in to enjoy a full menu crafted by the owners and veteran chefs, Caitlin Carney and Marcus Jacobs. Offerings include raw preparations that highlight the freshness of their seafood, like the shrimp ceviche served with Zapps, and cooked items like the po'boys made with fish fried straight out of the case. —Alana Al-Hatlani 236 N. Carrollton Ave, New Orleans, LA 70119 Gay, Georgia A tasting menu restaurant is the last thing you'd expect to find in the tiny town of Gay, Georgia (population 116). But Uberto aims to surprise at every turn, from the winding journey to the space itself—past pecan groves, chicken coops, and fields of cattle—to the artful plates served up by award-winning chef Ryan Smith of Atlanta's Michelin-starred Staplehouse, who runs Uberto with his wife Kara Hidinger. Smith is the culinary director and a founding partner of World of Quercus, a luxury stay on a family-owned working ranch. A biodynamic farm provides chef Smith and his team a year's worth of seasonal ingredients that are used in meals (ranging from morning pancakes to 15-course dinners) for guests staying at the property. If you're not spending the night, reservations on Fridays and Saturdays are now open to the public. Smith takes seasonal cooking to new heights by celebrating the land that surrounds Uberto. (If possible, request a farm tour before your meal for the complete experience.) On any given evening, you might experience dishes like dry-aged venison from the property; steelhead trout with bok choy kimchi; and lemon verbena ice cream. The pairing of Smith's skills and creativity with the restaurant's glorious surroundings made for one of my most memorable meals ever. —Lisa Cericola 2 Jimmy Clark Rd, Gay, GA 30218 Nashville, Tennessee If fine dining typically makes you yawn (or roll your eyes), then this is the Nashville restaurant for you. Housed in a former Piggly Wiggly, Fancypants is all about injecting more fun into eating out, and they do so through an ever-changing choose-your-own-adventure menu. The concept is loosely based on a classic steakhouse format and comes from the folks behind Butcher & Bee and Redheaded Stranger. It blends a distinctly Southern sensibility with Asian flavors, which is perhaps best exemplified in the Jammy Deviled Egg that reinvents the appetizer using Japanese ingredients like furikake. —Alana Al-Hatlani 921 Dickerson Pike Nashville, TN 37207 Richmond, Virginia For a taste of Mexican hospitality in Virginia's River City, look no further than Cochiloco in the Scott's Addition neighborhood. Paulo and Nelson Benavides, veterans of Richmond's restaurant scene, opened this taqueria in 2024 as a celebration of their Jalisco roots. The indoor-outdoor bar offers agua frescas, horchata, and creative batched cocktails made with ingredients like prickly pear juice, guava nectar, or hibiscus. The streets of Guadalajara inspired the colorful metalwork and tile inside, welcoming diners to linger over guacamole-and-pico topped cali fries and quesabirria tacos made with beef shortribs and homemade mole. Save room for the tacos dorados, a potato-fried dish inspired by a Benavides family recipe. —Brennan Long 3340 Moore St, Richmond, VA 23230 Birmingham, Alabama You won't walk out of this Magic City hotspot hungry, that's for sure. A well-appointed raw bar sets the stage for the restaurant's real star: dry-aged steaks with plenty of decadent sides and accoutrements. Appropriately housed in a renovated meat-packing facility, the restaurant boasts a handsome dining room that you won't want to leave—unless it's to sneak into Pogo, a speakeasy tucked away in the basement. 2309 1st Ave N. Suite 201, Birmingham, AL 35203 Houston, Texas The menu at ChòpnBlọk (pronounced 'choppin' block') in Houston's vibrant Montrose neighborhood doubles as a soulful syllabus for West African cuisine. Nigerian-American chef Opeyemi 'Ope' Amosu, who moved from London to Texas when he was three, champions his roots with dishes that sing, like a Scotch Egg reimagined with Southern-inspired deviled filling and a spin on traditional jollof as 'jambalaya' with BBQ-style smoked sausage. —Kaitlyn Yarborough Sadik, Digital Editor 507 Westheimer Road, Houston TX 77006 Charleston, South Carolina Elegant ambiance, outstanding service, and exquisite plating elevate the dining experience at this Charleston hot spot. Land and sea spar for dominance on the menu, with hot and cold seafood towers vying for your appetite against a curated lineup of dry- and wet-aged American beef and Japanese and Australian Wagyu. Come hungry; there's also a list of a dozen side dishes you won't want to pass up.—Josh Miller 480 E Bay St, Charleston, SC 29403 Clarkston, Georgia Run by husband and wife Yapar Shel and Roi San (with help from their daughter Victoria), this newcomer just outside Atlanta specializes in Myanmar cuisine. The restaurant began in the couple's Clarkston home, gaining popularity through Facebook and word of mouth. Last year, they moved into a brick-and-mortar inside the new Clarkston Market development. Located in the heart of the city, which is known as the 'Ellis Island of the South,' the project is home to other international restaurants as well, and celebrates the diversity that scores of refugees, like the couple, have brought to the area. The aromatic fish noodle soup (mohinga) flavored with ginger, garlic, and lemongrass is a great place to start before moving onto pork skewers, curries, or a numbingly spicy whole ma la fish–just make sure to leave room for at least one of the many delightful desserts. —Alana 980 Rowland St suite 4130, Clarkston, GA 30021 Asheville, North Carolina Equal parts a dessert restaurant, wine bar, and Hi-FI listening lounge, Potential New Boyfriend is the coziest—and definitely the coolest—place in West Asheville to enjoy a sweet treat. Named for the lead hit single from Dolly Parton's 1984 album 'Burlap & Satin', Potential New Boyfriend shirks strict labels to create a concept of its own. The establishment's owner, Disco, spins records that match the mood of the dining room, and pastry chef Dana Amromin serves up a dessert menu that's seamlessly integrated into the wine and spirit offerings. I was surprised and delighted to discover that the coconut tres leches cake, a rich chocolate cake soaked in coconut cream and topped with pastry cream and flaky toasted coconut, was entirely vegan. Paired with a modest glass of deep, bittersweet cognac, it was one of the best bites I've had all year. —Catherine 647 Haywood Road, Asheville NC 28806 Read the original article on Southern Living

Dolly Parton brings Southern comfort to frozen food in new partnership
Dolly Parton brings Southern comfort to frozen food in new partnership

CBS News

time21-05-2025

  • Entertainment
  • CBS News

Dolly Parton brings Southern comfort to frozen food in new partnership

Dolly Parton has music hits that span decades, but now she's opening up about a new initiative involving her efforts to bring Southern comfort food to family tables. Parton is releasing her own line of frozen meals, including chicken and dumplings, shrimp and grits and country fried steak. During "CBS Mornings" on Wednesday, Parton said the inspiration for the idea came from her childhood and family. "I am a good Southern cook. I grew up eating good, Southern food and learned how to cook it coming from a big family and my aunts and my mom and my grandmas. So that's just a natural thing for country women to know how to cook," she said. Parton added it stemmed from the success with her baking mixes with Duncan Hines. "We thought, well, what else can we do because everybody loved it," Parton said. "I have always wanted to have my own line of frozen foods, where you can really have – there's good dishes, and just reach out into the refrigerator, pull them out and just eat them. Just heat and eat." Beyond her desire to create these Southern-style dishes, Parton spoke about the loss of her husband, Carl Dean. She said she's grateful for the love and support she's received since his death in March. The two were married for more than 60 years. "I've been staying busy, which that's always better for me. Of course… when you lose someone you love and when you have been with them for 60 years, that's a big loss," Parton said. "You have to learn new patterns, new ways, new thoughts and all that. I'll always miss him, but I try to bring him into all the things I'm doing." When asked about an online petition to rename the Nashville airport after her, Parton laughed, saying, "I'm very flattered. … I don't think anybody's that serious about that. We all make jokes about if it was that. ... It's a nice compliment."

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