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The Independent
24-02-2025
- Health
- The Independent
An expert says these are the best ways to get rid of acne scars and ‘brighten the skin'
If you've ever struggled with acne, you'll know that spots can sometimes leave their mark long after the initial inflammation is gone. Scarring can present as raised, bumpy texture, pigmentation and indents, and in the most severe cases, can be permanent. However, for some types of acne scarring, there are some specific ingredients which can help reduce the appearance of lesions, and typically, if you can avoid the temptation of picking and squeezing at your spot, you can reduce trauma to the skin, and thus decrease the likelihood of scars emerging. In order to bring you an in-depth guide into how scarring happens, what you can do to get rid of it, and the ingredients within your routine that can soothe skin, we've enlisted the help of Dr Stefanie Williams, cosmetic dermatologist and medical director of Eudelo Dermatology and Dr Aiza Jamil, consultant dermatologist and medical director of sk:n clinics. What causes acne scarring? 'Acne scarring is damage caused to the skin as a result of an inflammatory reaction to acne such as nodules, cysts, papules or pustules happening deep in the skin dermis', says Dr Williams. 'It occurs as an intense inflammatory response to ruptured acne lesions, coupled with collagen damage and abnormal healing. There is also a genetic element to it – some patients don't scar even after deep acne cysts, while others can scar from even moderate papules and pustules.' Dr Williams advises that picking or squeezing acne lesions can further increase inflammation, which can increase the risk of scarring. One of the most effective ways we've found to avoid picking at spots is to apply a hydrocolloid patch, which draws out fluid, stops bacteria from getting in and prevents you from touching your face. In our guide to the best spot treatments, we loved the Starface hydro-stars pimple patches + compact (£12.99, Cute and colourful, they get to work in a matter of hours. 'Starface recommends you leave them on for six hours – we wore one overnight as well as during the day working from home. In each pod there are 32 stars, so you'll always have a plentiful supply, and they're so weightless you'll forget you're wearing them,' our tester said. How to get rid of acne scars According to Dr Williams, scarring in the form of dents and textural changes in the skin's surface, cannot be fixed with over-the-counter skincare. 'Only in-clinic treatments such as Exokine-Needling or laser treatments can realistically achieve significant improvements of real acne scarring,' she advises. That's not to say there aren't some steps you can take within your skincare routine to support the treatment of scarring and prevent it from occurring in the first place. 'The best supportive acne scarring topicals are retinoids, as they can help remodel and regenerate the skin and soften depressed acne scars. Ideally, this would be a prescription-strength retinoid such as tretinoin, however, if that's not feasible, then a potent over-the-counter retinoid mix can be a good alternative,' she says. More importantly, if you are keen to treat scarring, Dr Williams strongly advises that active acne is cleared up first, as not doing this, can further fuel scarring. If you're not sure where to start with your skincare routine for active acne, read our dermatologist-led guide to the best skincare products for acne. Dr Jamil also recommends using chemical exfoliants in your day-to-day skincare routine to unclog pores, which is a leading cause of acne, as well as retinol which will exfoliate the skin, increase cell turnover and generally reduce the visibility of scarring. 'Similarly, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) both help to exfoliate the skin. AHAs also increase cell turnover while BHAs penetrate the skin for a deeper exfoliation. Both ultimately help reduce scarring on the skin. AHAs and BHAs work well together, but if you are looking to incorporate retinol into your routine as well it is best to rotate between them to prevent skin becoming dry and irritated,' she explains. What are the best products to treat acne scarring? The experts we spoke to both recommended using retinol to reduce the visibility of scars and soften them. In our guide to the best retinol creams and serums, the CeraVe resurfacing retinol serum with ceramides and niacinamide (£23, was our beauty writer's top pick for sensitive skin types, but its budget price tag is just as appealing. 'The formula is lightweight, absorbs quickly and contains encapsulated retinol alongside liquorice root extract', noted our writer. The product is 'designed to help reduce the look of any scarring left behind by acne, but it also helps brighten the skin. Alongside being suitable for sensitive skin, it would also be a great entry point into retinol for anybody new to the ingredient or curious about it,' our tester added. Dr Jamil also recommended AHAs and one of the most common types is glycolic acid, which sloughs off dead skin cells to deliver a brighter, radiant complexion. It's one of the main ingredients in the Kate Somerville liquid exfolikate triple acid resurfacing treatment (£58, which took home the took the top spot in our previous review of the best exfoliating toners. 'Considering its 10 per cent acid blend – glycolic, malic and lactic – and exfoliating fruit enzymes including papaya and pineapple, you'd expect this to be quite an aggressive exfoliant. But while it's highly effective in smoothing rough texture, improving the appearance of pores by clearing out build-up, and generally yielding glowy, clear skin, it's also very gentle, thanks in part to the inclusion of honey in the formula,' revealed our tester. Lastly, Dr Jamil recommends wearing SPF daily. If you're not already, she says doing so 'will help prevent the scars darkening and becoming more prominent'. Our beauty experts have put plenty to the test in our lengthy review of the best sunscreens for your face, and taking the coveted top spot was the La Roche-Posay anthelios UVmune 400 oil control fluid (£20, Not only does it reduce shine, but its fluid texture is fast-absorbing and non-greasy, all while providing UVA, UVB and long UVA protection. 'Incredibly easy to apply, the thin neck tube dispenses just the right amount to cover every area of the face, and the lightweight lotion instantly absorbs into the skin. Reducing shine, we found you'll still get a fresh-faced glow minus any sticky or oily sensation, and it keeps you safe from the sun no matter how strong,' said our beauty expert.
The Independent
30-01-2025
- Health
- The Independent
Peptides: An expert explains the ins and outs of the popular anti-ageing ingredient
Peptides are the talk of the skincare sphere at the moment and are popping up in new products left, right and centre. Take Medik8, for instance; just two days ago (28 January) the brand launched its liquid peptides advanced MP serum (£79, which claims to reduce wrinkles in as little as eight weeks. Likewise, earlier this month Paula's Choice dropped a new pro-collagen peptide moisturiser (£49, and, back in 2024, we saw peptide-led formulas introduced from the likes of Glow Recipe, L'Oréal and more. There's no denying the ingredient's popularity but what are peptides, really? We wanted to get granular about the science behind the supposedly anti-ageing component. How does it work? And are they sensitive skin approved? We reached out to an expert in the skincare field to inform our research, garnering kernels of cosmetics wisdom from their numerous years in the industry. Here's what they had to say. Meet the expert Emma Wedgwood is an advanced aesthetics nurse of more than 20 years. As well as working as an intensive care nurse for the NHS, she trained in aesthetic medicine on Harley street where she now works within her self-founded clinic, Emma Wedgwood Aesthetics. What are peptides? 'Peptides are small chains of amino acids, which are the basic components that make up the proteins found naturally in your body,' reveals Wedgwood. She goes on to say that they're very important in terms of skincare because they help to support your skin's structure and functions. What do peptides do? Putting their purpose into simple terms, Wedgwood explains: 'Peptides send signals to your skin which essentially tell your skin cells to do certain things.' Breaking this down, she credits peptides as anti-agers, owing to the fact that they 'signal your skin to produce more collagen, which makes your skin firmer and less wrinkled'. She adds that peptides boost hydration and, by working to support the natural healing process, thus promote a healthier skin barrier. 'Some peptides can even calm inflammation and help heal signs of damaged skin,' she says, which makes them particularly good for people with sensitive or acne-prone skin. Are peptides good for skin? 'Definitely!' Wedgwood confirms. Circling back to the function of peptides, she adds that they're great for 'improving skin texture and increasing hydration'. Which peptides are best for anti-ageing? For those who don't know, there are thousands of different types of peptides, 7,000 of which (according to LA-based private healthcare providers, Next Health) are naturally occurring in our own bodies. Touching on this, Wedgwood pinpoints four types of peptides she recommends for more mature skin types. ' Matrixyl is one of the most popular peptides for boosting collagen and reducing wrinkles,' she begins, adding that ' copper peptides promote collagen and elastin production while also helping to heal the skin.' Both of these, respectively, are featured in No7's protect and perfect intense day cream (£24.95, and Cosrx's 6 peptide skin booster (£18.90, Completing her trifecta of collagen-producing peptides, Wedgwood recommends palmitoyl tripeptide-1, which is one of the key ingredients in The Inkey List 's affordable collagen peptide serum (£11.25, Finally, Wedgwood suggests argireline. Surprisingly, she adds that 'it's sometimes compared to botox because it helps reduce the appearance of fine lines by relaxing the facial muscles'. Any alternative to injectables has our attention so, after spotting The Ordinary's very own argireline solution (£9.20, we'll be stocking up. Who needs peptides, typically? While Wedgwood admits that peptides are good for everyone to use, she does caveat that they're particularly good for people who are concerned about ageing, dry, or sensitive skin. To this, she adds that they can be an effective skincare addition to those suffering sun damage or acne scarring because 'they support skin healing'. Wedgwood goes on to say that people with younger skin can benefit from peptides, too, largely because of their hydrating and skin health-boosting properties. Can peptides cause acne? Dispelling rumours that peptides are bad news in terms of breakouts, Wedgwood states that they're are actually good for acne-prone skin. This, she says, is because they have both skin healing and anti-inflammatory effects. Can peptides be used with retinol? In short: Yes! In fact, Wedgwood assures: 'They can help calm some of the irritation that comes with retinol, so they are great to use together.' Can peptides be used with vitamin C? Again, it's a yes from Wedgwood. Though, she suggests using your Vitamin C product first, followed by peptides. Are peptides safe? Wedgwood confirms that peptides are 'very safe and gentle', adding that 'they're less likely to irritate your skin compared to stronger products like acids or retinol'. Taking us through their origins, she details how peptides are natural amino acids – AKA the building blocks of proteins – from plants such as soy, rice or sometimes animals. However, you can also get synthetic peptides, which involve a chemical process called synthesis. Wedgwood assures that most people would be fine using both types, natural and synthetic. As ever, caution is advised for anyone particularly irritation-prone and, indeed, Wedgwood recommends those individuals always carry out a patch test on a small area of skin.
