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London Fashion Week Unveils First Schedule Under New Strategy
London Fashion Week Unveils First Schedule Under New Strategy

Vogue

time23-07-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Vogue

London Fashion Week Unveils First Schedule Under New Strategy

This article originally appeared on Vogue Business. To receive the Vogue Business newsletter, sign up here. London Fashion Week's Spring/Summer 2026 edition marks a new era for the event—its first under recently joined British Fashion Council CEO Laura Weir. And the provisional schedule, released today, features some exciting events alongside the city's flagship brands, with the aim of creating more buzz and decentralizing British fashion. Running from September 18 to the 22nd, LFW will feature 18 percent more shows and presentations this season than the spring 2025 collections, according to the BFC. It comes just over a week after Weir announced her first moves in her new role, including scrapping fees for BFC members to show on-schedule. 'This season marks my first as CEO of the British Fashion Council, and 12 weeks into the role, I am pleased to announce an 18 percent increase in designers showing physically and digitally on-schedule,' said Weir in a statement today. 'My intention is to build on the foundations of LFW by focusing on cultural relevance, global competitiveness and meaningful support for designers. Last week, I announced some urgent strategic moves for September, which included waiving show fees for designer members showing physically on the main schedule and doubling the investment in the LFW guest programme to welcome more of the world's leading press, cultural commentators and buyers to the city. This season signals a designer-first approach to LFW that is ambitious, purposeful and rooted in the creative energy of London.' BFC Chief Exec Laura Weir Sets Out Vision For 'Next British Fashion Era' It's been 11 weeks since Weir stepped in to lead the organisation behind London Fashion Week and the Fashion Awards. Last night, she revealed her first moves. Burberry, Roksanda, Erdem, and Emilia Wickstead will return this season, joining the likes of small to mid-size labels Ahluwalia, Harris Reed, Labrum London, Marques Almeida, Paolo Carzana, Patrick McDowell, Richard Quinn, and Tove on the schedule. Elsewhere, BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund winner Conner Ives—who found global fame with his 'Protect the Dolls' T-shirt in support of Trans Lifeline—will show in September for the first time (he normally only shows in London once a year, in February). Cult duo Chopova Lowena will stage their annual show, which has been a highlight of the September calendar since their runway debut in for SS23. Cheshire-born designer Talia Byre, whose presentation last season garnered a lot of editor praise, will make her runway debut.

Ideas Over Ego: Vivienne Westwood's Return To Milan Men's Fashion Week
Ideas Over Ego: Vivienne Westwood's Return To Milan Men's Fashion Week

Forbes

time14-07-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Forbes

Ideas Over Ego: Vivienne Westwood's Return To Milan Men's Fashion Week

MILAN, ITALY - JUNE 22: Andreas Kronthaler and all the models attend the Vivienne Westwood ... More Presentation during Milan Fashion Week - Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 on June 22, 2025 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by) When Vivienne Westwood unveiled its latest dedicated menswear in a caffè in Milan, it felt less like a runway show and more like an intimate cultural reset — not just for fashion week but the world of fashion at large. The choice of a caffè was unpretentious, warm, alive with possibility. A place where ideas are exchanged over espresso and where vulnerability felt welcome. Where Westwood's Spring/Summer 2026 collection, Colazione Da Andreas, could easily unfold under the 'Dandy Meets Granny' theme. You heard that right—Dandy Meets Granny. Masculine silhouettes softened with lace, baroque florals on sharply tailored suits, pearls defying combat boots — a visual dialogue of contradictions that felt both timely and timeless. But beyond the aesthetic, the brand DNA set the disruptive and some would say 'rebellious' tone. A complete absence of ego (well, ego in the negative sense anyway.) In the world of fashion — often dominated by personality cults and towering egos — this brand was all about ideas not egos. Collaboration not cut-throat. It was so refreshing to experience — the ultimate, elevated brand experience. And I have no doubt it was a glimpse into the future of fashion culture across the board. Accessible. Achieveable. Inspiring. Inviting. Aspiring. Oozing attitude — but in the right way. So what can we learn from the show that I believe stole the limelight at Milan Men's Fashion Week? The Caffè: A Symbol of Unscripted Disruption MILAN, ITALY - JUNE 22: A model walks the runway at the Vivienne Westwood presentation during Milan ... More Fashion Week Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 at Caffe Rivoli on June 22, 2025 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Max Cisotti/) The café wasn't just a venue — it was a symbol of the brand and immersive experience. A place where high culture collides with everyday life, where surprise is more important than perfection, where rebellion feels accidental rather than staged. And where you are genuinely invited into the world of Vivienne Westwood. It felt like a bit of a throwback to what I imagine were the early days of the brand on King's Road, when Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren shaped a punk aesthetic that would inspire generations with a Milanese twist. From the Sex Pistols to today's global designer pieces, Westwood has always blurred the line between fashion collections and cultural movements. Punk rock group "Sex Pistols" manager Malcolm McLaren and friend designer Viviane Westwood seen here ... More outside Bow Street Magistrate Court, after being remanded on bail for fighting. (Photo by Daily Mirror / Bill Kennedy/Mirrorpix/Mirrorpix via Getty Images) After the show, Andreas Kronthaler, Vivienne Westwood's part owner and creative genius and — dare I say vulnerable — architect behind this collection and behind the brand for quite some years now, told me how he didn't like the term 'rebellious.' Rebellion, he explained, implies a deliberate, strategic act of defiance whereas his creative process isn't about staging battles, it's about openness to accidents that give birth to genuine expression. MALDIVES - NOVEMBER 2: (UK TABLOID NEWSPAPERS AND MAGAZINES OUT) Vivienne Westwood and Andreas ... More Kronthalier attends the One & Only Resort Party on November 2, 2005 at Reethi Rah Island, Maldives. (Photo by Dave M. Benett/Getty Images) Andreas is neither a commander obsessed with breaking rules nor is he a designer interested in shock value. He's a leader who reveals rather than performs, who invites rather than dictates. And in a world that seems to be increasingly lacking kindness and connection, the concept of the power of vulnerability, I believe is only gaining greater momentum. In fact, research published in Harvard Business Review shows that leaders who openly express uncertainty and reveal imperfections foster greater trust, loyalty, and emotional connection with their audiences and teams. Rather than undermining authority, this openness is seen as a sign of strength and courage, encouraging authenticity and deeper engagement. The Celebration of Contradiction 'Dandy Meets Granny' embodied contradiction at its most compelling. Masculinity and femininity, the past and the future, softness and sharpness — all collided in a way that felt deeply human. And for those of you who have read The Kim Kardashian Principle, I emphasize the power of contradiction in branding. It's definitely a counter-intuitive approach but, Westwood's legacy — from sterling silver orb necklaces to her bridal collection reinterpretations — has often been about holding tension and turning it into art. It's the same ethos that has earned her pieces a place at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and inspired designers from Rei Kawakubo to pioneering supermodels like the first British Black supermodel to front British Vogue, Naomi Campbell or even Kate Moss. MILAN, ITALY - JUNE 22: A model walks the runway at the Vivienne Westwood presentation during Milan ... More Fashion Week Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 at Caffe Rivoli on June 22, 2025 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Max Cisotti/) At a time when some brands are still performing inclusivity and authenticity as carefully scripted acts, Vivienne Westwood's approach felt like an invitation to breathe. There was no posturing for the algorithm, no orchestrated controversy. And while I talk alot about brands releasing societal tension to gain cultural relevance, it also reminded me that brands don't have to resolve tensions to be loved. In fact, audiences today can crave complexity and the freedom to hold multiple truths at once. I've said it before and I'll say it again Gen Z want to know what's really going on behind the scenes so they can connect with brands on a values level. Recent research confirms that audiences increasingly crave transparent and multi-dimensional brand narratives. One survey reports that 82% of Gen Z say they trust a company more when real customers appear in its marketing, while 72% are likelier to buy from brands supporting social causes. The much loved Edelman trust barometer reveals that 81% say trust influences their purchasing decisions. Additionally, a Stackla report reveals that 86% of consumers consider authenticity a key factor in choosing brands. Bottom line? Dropping the performative act of inclusivity—eschewing staged controversy or algorithm-driven campaigns—allows brands to 'invite rather than dictate,' fostering deeper connection by embracing complexity and revealing who they truly are. The New Masculinity: Fluid, Playful, Free For a new generation increasingly unwilling to accept binary definitions, Vivienne Westwood's collection doesn't shock; it liberates. Rather than trying to predict trends, I'd say it offers an entirely new narrative — one rooted in curiosity, self-expression, and a refusal to simplify. MILAN, ITALY - JUNE 22: A model walks the runway at the Vivienne Westwood presentation during Milan ... More Fashion Week Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 at Caffe Rivoli on June 22, 2025 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Max Cisotti/) Much like Vivienne's iconic Harris Tweed reinterpretations — designing bondage trousers made from the fabric for her Worlds End boutique — or her controversial takes on traditional punk hardware, this collection encouraged exploration over conformity. And as I've said for a while, I predict this exploration will ultimately see the merging of men and women's fashion week. Lesson for leaders? Brands chasing relevance through surveys and hashtags might consider what it means to better listen instead of react, to explore instead of control. Take for example one survey that found that 50% of Gen Z and 56% of Millennials view traditional gender roles as outdated, and 52% agree gender isn't binary. Another study of over 4,600 university students across the U.S., U.K., and Australia reported — 'We are no longer this or that. We are this AND that.' Gen Z is actively rejecting rigid labels, favoring fashion that allows freedom and curiosity. These findings affirm that when brands — much like Andreas Kronthaler's work — offer narratives rooted in exploration instead of conformity, they resonate more deeply, because audiences crave complexity and the freedom to hold multiple truths simultaneously. Invitation Over Instruction: A New Blueprint for Brand Leadership The return of Vivienne Westwood to Milan Men's Fashion Week after a decade and amidst the scent of espresso at Caffè Rivoli, one truth became clear: the future belongs to leaders willing to exchange ego for ideas, and presence for performance. True innovation stems from openness, not orchestration. Audiences today crave brands that prioritize substance over self-importance, and complexity and contradiction can be the very foundation of authenticity and connection. LONDON, ENGLAND - FEBRUARY 14: Dame Vivienne Westwood attends the Vivienne Westwood AW20/21 ... More presentation and exhibition during London Fashion Week February 2020 at The Serpentine Gallery on February 13, 2020 in London, England. (Photo by David M. Benett/) I agree with Andreas, I don't believe Vivienne Westwood's collection was about rebellion in the traditional sense. To me, it was about revealing something honest and unguarded — and in doing so, reminding us that the most powerful statements aren't shouted; they're shared. Because in a market oversaturated with noise — from New York City flagships to global boutiques on Davies Street and Melrose Avenue — I believe the boldest move isn't to provoke; it's to reveal. That's how savvy audiences today will judge you, connect with you, and ultimately decide if you are worthy of their loyalty. So let me leave you with this: the brands — and leaders — who will define tomorrow won't be the loudest, the slickest, or the most meticulously crafted. They'll be the ones daring enough to strip off the mask and show us exactly who they are — contradictions, imperfections, and all. Named Esquire's Influencer of the Year, Jeetendr Sehdev is a media personality and leading voice in fashion, entertainment, and influence, and author of the New York Times bestselling phenomenon The Kim Kardashian Principle: Why Shameless Sells (and How to Do It Right).

Three Trends From Paris Fashion Week Men's Spring/Summer 2026
Three Trends From Paris Fashion Week Men's Spring/Summer 2026

Forbes

time04-07-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Forbes

Three Trends From Paris Fashion Week Men's Spring/Summer 2026

Backstage at the Dior Homme show as part of Paris Men's Fashion Week on June 27, 2025 in Paris, ... More France. (Photo by Kuba Dabrowski/WWD via Getty Images) As Paris Fashion Week Men's Spring/Summer 2026 comes to a close this week, there is undoubtedly a well of inspiration coming from the City of Lights. This season blended bold designs, subdued silhouettes and interesting footwear to tell us one thing: menswear is slowly but surely becoming on-par with its female counterpart. Keep reading to see how design hours like Dior, Dries Van Noten and Willy Chavarria are leading the charge in defining the potential of menswear. Keeping It Colorful Bright colors are nothing new when it comes to a spring wardrobe—one needs something to combat the gloomy rain—but Paris brought this to another level. Unexpected color combinations and fabric patterns took center stage at more than one show this season. For example, Dries Van Noten was a masterclass in showing us that being effortlessly elegant doesn't mean succumbing to a monochromatic wardrobe. Quite the opposite, in fact. As the first collection under the house's new creative director, Julian Klausner, there is an undoubted weight in showing such a bold collection, but keeping within the brand's well-established design principles made the transition all the easier for fans of this Belgian brand. Red was the star of the show, cropping up throughout the presentation, paired with equally eye-catching blue sweaters, silky purple button-downs and impossibly short shorts. For a more principles approach to color theory, three brands stood out. The first among them is Sanderlak, whose debut presentation in Paris was inspired by the washed-out tones of Los Angeles. 'There's something about the light in LA that always gets me. It's soft yet harsh and dry, and it settles over everything in this quiet way,' says founder Sander Lak. Taking inspiration from endless vistas and the Golden Coast, these same colorways made it into the 51-piece collection, predominated by desaturated pinks, yellows and blues. Similarly inspired by place, Willy Chavarria used his hometown of Huron, California as the starting point for his politically-charged collection. The opening of Chavarria's show highlighted thirty-five men, dressed in white shirts, who knelt on the runway, hands behind their back, as a symbolic statement of the impact the Trump Administration's weaponization of ICE has caused in his hometown. Models on the runway at the Willy Chavarria show as part of Paris Men's Fashion Week held at the ... More Salle Pleyel on June 27, 2025 in Paris, France. (Photo by Swan Gallet/WWD via Getty Images) 'The opening piece was to contrast against the beauty of the people that are actually being kidnapped and shipped away, broken away from their families, the chaos that we're seeing right now,' explains Chevarria about his controversial opener. And in stark contrast to this opening was a collection that was big, bold and full of character—or, as the designer put it—it's 'color as an act of rebellion.' Utilizing oversized silhouettes at near-zoot suit level proportions, Chevarria's collection was filled to the brim with pink, yellow and turquoise, a visual representation of rebellion against the norms which define menswear—and, to an extent, the broader political tensions that are happening outside the runway. Model on the runway at the Willy Chavarria show as part of Paris Men's Fashion Week held at the ... More Salle Pleyel on June 27, 2025 in Paris, France. (Photo by Dominique Maitre/WWD via Getty Images) Old-Money Aesthetics Are Here to Stay There seems to be an interesting dichotomy at play when it comes to the cultural conversation around money. At once, income equality is at an all-time high and continues to be a flashpoint across the political spectrum (for example, the criticisms following the Bezos-Sánchez wedding last week). And yet, there is a continued fascination with the upper-class way of life, with elements of that familiar TikTok trend of hashtag-Old Money becoming ever more present in recent collections. It is as if society is saying: If you're going to have money, at least look the part. Leading this aesthetic is Jonathan Anderson, whose highly anticipated first collection as the newly creative director of Dior was presented during Paris. Pulling elements from French aristocracy, Jean-Michel Basquiat and the Dior archives, Anderson presented a collection that was understated, yes, but entirely singular in its vision of understated elegance. From cravats tied around models' necks to slouchy pullovers loosely draped across their backs, the small details of this collection show an innate understanding that style is as much how you wear something as to what you're wearing to begin with. It should come as a surprise to no one to find The Row, Lemaire and Hermès as strongholds in the conversation around sophisticated styling. Each brand kept within a similar monochromatic color palette of black, tan and grey, making for a wardrobe in which one can create a kind of uniformity to their personal style. Loose-fitted garments remain the standard, with flowing shirts and loose-fitted pants focusing more on comfort and fabric versus the model's body, giving one room for movement when walking the streets of New York, Paris or Milan. A model presents a creation by Dior Homme for the Menswear Ready-to-wear Spring-Summer 2026 ... More collection as part of the Paris Fashion Week in Paris, on June 27, 2025. (Photo by Bertrand GUAY / AFP) (Photo by BERTRAND GUAY/AFP via Getty Images) Footwear Gets Its Moment Here is a riddle for you. What do beachgoers in the southern United States and models on the runways in Paris have in common? If you said an appreciation for sandals, then you'd be correct. More and more, designers this year have embraced the sandal, making for an interesting departure from the more sophisticated boots and trainers that have long dominated the spring shows. Lemaire, Louis Vuitton, Hermès and Dries Van Noten all styled their models with a toes-out look, showing a bit of unconventional skin during an otherwise conservative runway. Another designer who showed us that footwear remains an untapped canvas for creativity in menswear was Wales Bonner. While this should come as no surprise (the British brand has held a longstanding partnership with Adidas since 2020). Now, designer Grace Wales Bonner seems to have adapted an almost feminine ballet flat-style driving shoe for her menswear collection, with a flat, low sole that hugged the models' feet as they walked down the runway in clothes that were a continuation of the Met Gala's earlier theme, Superfine: Black Tailoring Style. PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 28: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from ... More Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Hermès Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 28, 2025 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal) Mark Your Calendars Just because Paris is now behind us, there remains a full calendar of fashion weeks still ahead, both for menswear and womenswear. To see all upcoming shows, visit the official calendar by the CFDA. Backstage at Wales Bonner show as part of Paris Men's Fashion Week on June 25, 2025 in Paris, ... More France. (Photo by Kuba Dabrowski/WWD via Getty Images)

Look of the Week: Marc Jacobs totes a boxed Labubu
Look of the Week: Marc Jacobs totes a boxed Labubu

CNN

time03-07-2025

  • Entertainment
  • CNN

Look of the Week: Marc Jacobs totes a boxed Labubu

When Marc Jacobs designed The Tote Bag, it seemed like the world nodded and scurried out to buy one overnight. When he launched his junior sub-brand Heaven, the notoriously elusive Gen Z shopper quickly claimed it as the aspirational label du jour. So it's perhaps fitting that on Monday, before he had even shown his Spring-Summer 2026 collection, Jacobs had another stroke of innovation — this one was box-fresh. On the day of his latest runway, Jacobs was photographed walking into the New York Public Library — where his off-schedule collection would show hours later — carrying a black leather Hermès Birkin bag adorned with a shrimp tempura Labubu. Unlike most Labubu enthusiasts, though, who attach the grinning toy to their bags with its built-in carabiner, Jacobs chose to attach the bag charm without removing it from its blister pack, hooking it on as if he were putting it on a retail rack. Jacobs joined the Labubu craze thanks to makeup artist and longtime collaborator, Pat McGrath, who posted a video to TikTok of the designer receiving the gift. 'She's major,' Jacobs said, attaching the box to his bag. 'Is this how you do it?' McGrath laughed, replying: 'Well, to each his own.' Honored to gift my dear friend @marcjacobs HIS FIRST #Labubu Enjoy xx SO divine! 💋💄💫 Created by artist Kasing Lung and sold by Chinese toy maker Pop Mart, Labubus were popularized in 2020, though they've become a full-blown phenomenon in the past year as customers scramble to collect the sought-after limited editions for resale — with one Labubu selling for $150,000 earlier this month at an auction in Beijing. Fastening a Labubu to a designer handbag has become a new favorite habit of the fashion set, who have been wearing theirs to runway shows for a number of seasons. The high-low contrast between a $27.99 toy and, say, a $4,700 Bottega Veneta Andiamo leather tote bag has become a knowing wink, a 4-inch-tall totem of irony. Even celebrities such as Rihanna, Lisa and Dua Lipa — the last of whom is known for her Jane Birkinification of whatever bag is in the crook of her elbow — have been spotted with the furry monsters in tow. That Jacobs has joined in is no surprise — his own playful, pop-culture influenced designs are a natural fit for the accessory, and TikTok users have been painstakingly color-matching their Tote Bags to the cartoonish toys for months. But the choice to wear his Labubu boxed is a touch of camp for the designer, who has been metaphorically unboxing dolls on the runway for multiple seasons. Inspired by the artifice of playthings, Jacobs turned to 1960s paper dolls last February, and this season opened the door to the dollhouse once again with clownish, clomping platform heels that forced his models to walk with a Barbie-like gait. Many models were adorned with huge bows in their hair — stiff and flat as cardboard — with puff-sleeves so large they could double as airbags. Although protective Labubu cases are already creeping onto the market, perhaps Jacobs' pristine in-the-packet approach will kickstart a new trend — even if the designer was just trying to safeguard his latest investment. After all, Jacobs is a collector at heart. He spent years acquiring original works by John Currin, Andy Warhol, Richard Prince and Ed Ruscha, and, in 2019, he announced that he would be selling most of his fine art via Sotheby's to make space to 'start again.' Now, that collection is sure to be filled with the toothy-grinned PopMart bag charms — in their boxes of course — in no time.

Look of the Week: Marc Jacobs totes a boxed Labubu
Look of the Week: Marc Jacobs totes a boxed Labubu

CNN

time03-07-2025

  • Entertainment
  • CNN

Look of the Week: Marc Jacobs totes a boxed Labubu

When Marc Jacobs designed The Tote Bag, it seemed like the world nodded and scurried out to buy one overnight. When he launched his junior sub-brand Heaven, the notoriously elusive Gen Z shopper quickly claimed it as the aspirational label du jour. So it's perhaps fitting that on Monday, before he had even shown his Spring-Summer 2026 collection, Jacobs had another stroke of innovation — this one was box-fresh. On the day of his latest runway, Jacobs was photographed walking into the New York Public Library — where his off-schedule collection would show hours later — carrying a black leather Hermès Birkin bag adorned with a shrimp tempura Labubu. Unlike most Labubu enthusiasts, though, who attach the grinning toy to their bags with its built-in carabiner, Jacobs chose to attach the bag charm without removing it from its blister pack, hooking it on as if he were putting it on a retail rack. Jacobs joined the Labubu craze thanks to makeup artist and longtime collaborator, Pat McGrath, who posted a video to TikTok of the designer receiving the gift. 'She's major,' Jacobs said, attaching the box to his bag. 'Is this how you do it?' McGrath laughed, replying: 'Well, to each his own.' Honored to gift my dear friend @marcjacobs HIS FIRST #Labubu Enjoy xx SO divine! 💋💄💫 Created by artist Kasing Lung and sold by Chinese toy maker Pop Mart, Labubus were popularized in 2020, though they've become a full-blown phenomenon in the past year as customers scramble to collect the sought-after limited editions for resale — with one Labubu selling for $150,000 earlier this month at an auction in Beijing. Fastening a Labubu to a designer handbag has become a new favorite habit of the fashion set, who have been wearing theirs to runway shows for a number of seasons. The high-low contrast between a $27.99 toy and, say, a $4,700 Bottega Veneta Andiamo leather tote bag has become a knowing wink, a 4-inch-tall totem of irony. Even celebrities such as Rihanna, Lisa and Dua Lipa — the last of whom is known for her Jane Birkinification of whatever bag is in the crook of her elbow — have been spotted with the furry monsters in tow. That Jacobs has joined in is no surprise — his own playful, pop-culture influenced designs are a natural fit for the accessory, and TikTok users have been painstakingly color-matching their Tote Bags to the cartoonish toys for months. But the choice to wear his Labubu boxed is a touch of camp for the designer, who has been metaphorically unboxing dolls on the runway for multiple seasons. Inspired by the artifice of playthings, Jacobs turned to 1960s paper dolls last February, and this season opened the door to the dollhouse once again with clownish, clomping platform heels that forced his models to walk with a Barbie-like gait. Many models were adorned with huge bows in their hair — stiff and flat as cardboard — with puff-sleeves so large they could double as airbags. Although protective Labubu cases are already creeping onto the market, perhaps Jacobs' pristine in-the-packet approach will kickstart a new trend — even if the designer was just trying to safeguard his latest investment. After all, Jacobs is a collector at heart. He spent years acquiring original works by John Currin, Andy Warhol, Richard Prince and Ed Ruscha, and, in 2019, he announced that he would be selling most of his fine art via Sotheby's to make space to 'start again.' Now, that collection is sure to be filled with the toothy-grinned PopMart bag charms — in their boxes of course — in no time.

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