4 days ago
This fairytale corner of Central Europe is perfect for a break in the great outdoors
There are more crystal-clear alpine lakes, rushing turquoise rivers, dramatic gorges and thundering waterfalls in northwest Slovenia than you can count. Surrounded by the high peaks of the Julian Alps, marking the border between Slovenia and Italy, this region offers every outdoor activity imaginable.
With neighbouring Croatia, Austria and the Italian Dolomites already attracting the adventure set in droves, for those in search of adrenaline kicks, like me, it's an overlooked gem.
Here's where to go and how to explore from my tour of four of the region's top spots.
Lake Bled
Europe's most picturesque lagoon
The allure of world-famous Lake Bled, with its fairytale island, is easy to understand. The lake and Church of the Assumption on Bled Island have long been a place of pilgrimage, and, supposedly, ringing the bell in the church on the island will grant wishes.
What to do
The best way to reach the island is by catching one of the traditional pletna boats, operated by a select few families who have permission to row the vessels. Srečo Zupan built his by hand and rows using an ancient standing technique – once he retires, his sons will take up his mantle (€20 for adults; €10 for children;
Alternatively, book a rowing session with an Olympian. I joined three-time Olympian Miha Pirih (from €240 per person; on a double scull out onto the lake. After a few false starts, and a lot of patient encouragement, we were flying along at a grand pace.
Where to eat
Garden Village, roughly a 10-minute walk from the southern shore of the lake, has outside tables near a swimming pond populated by 'singing' frogs.
Where to stay
In Bled, Vila Adora, on the south shore, is whimsically furnished with glamorous lake-view terraces; double rooms cost from €430, including breakfast. Hotel Starkl, also close to the south shore, has small but very well-appointed rooms; doubles from €206, including breakfast (two-night minimum stay).
Lake Bohinj
Slovenia's largest glacial lake
Lake Bohinj, 30 minutes west of Bled, is known for its natural beauty and is one of my favourite places in Slovenia. It's a great starting point for hiking, and it's also possible to swim and canoe on the lake.
What to do
However, the best view of Bohinj is from above. As I flew high in a tandem paraglider (from €190; the water looked completely still, mirroring back the surrounding green forests and snowy mountain peaks.
Where to eat
Hisa Linhart, in the nearby village of Radovljica, is home to Michelin-star dining (five-course tasting menu, £75)
Where to stay
Luxurious Vila Muhr, close to the eastern shore of the lake in the village of Ribčev Laz, is a former royal hunting lodge and has suites from €950 in high season, including breakfast.
Lake Zelenci
A protected landscape
Part of the Zelenci Nature Reserve, Lake Zelenci is a colourful lake that gleams neon-blue and lime-green under the sun. In a mesmerising sight, pressure from natural springs under the lakebed causes the water to bubble to the surface. Nearby, Lake Jasna, a serene artificial lake, was created in the Eighties for recreation – visitors can now enjoy well-maintained walking trails, fishing and a lakeside library.
What to do
From the nearby town of Kranjska Gora, an old railway line has been converted into a dedicated cycle path, which I used to access the nature reserve. Guided cycling trips including routes over the Italian border to see Laghi di Fusine (€120 half day/€200 full day, for up to eight people;
Where to eat
Oštarija restaurant in Kranjska Gora serves hearty hog roast and traditional Balkan slow-cooked dishes.
Where to stay
In the village of Gozd Martuljek, Hotel Triangel has comfortable rooms, a wellness centre and splendid views of Špik mountain; doubles from €325, including breakfast (self-catering apartments also available). Vila Paulina, in the centre of Kranjska Gora, offers apartments from €350, for four nights.
The Triglav Lakes
The Valley of the Seven Lakes
The real jewel of this region is the Valley of the Seven Lakes, a pristine alpine valley known for its stunning natural beauty, botanical richness and a series of natural lakes.
The valley's remote lagoons can only be visited on foot, by completing a challenging hike through the limestone landscape.
What to do
The hike through the valley was the highlight of my trip, and arguably is the most beautiful route in the Julian Alps. The best starting point is Planina Blato, near the village of Stara Fužina. To see all seven lakes in one day is a strenuous hike (12 hours) – instead, stay overnight and split the distance into two days. The Triglav lakes are protected, and swimming is not allowed in order to protect the fragile ecosystem. Guided tours with Mitja Sorn start from €550 in the high season for up to eight people (
Where to eat
Koča pri Triglavskih jezerih (Triglav Lakes Lodge) serves traditional Slovenian food from mid-June to September. Try the ričet (barley stew) and the traditional Štruklji (dumplings); bring cash as huts often don't accept cards.
Where to stay
The Triglav Lakes Lodge also offers accommodation, but requires advanced booking; prices vary by accommodation type, starting from €36 per night in a dormitory room, excluding breakfast, from mid-June to September.
How to get there
British Airways, easyJet and RyanAir fly from London to Ljubljana airport, an hour's drive from Lake Bohinj or 30 minutes to Lake Bled.
