31-05-2025
Is Skye really a dog-friendly destination? We went to find out
Yet although our beaches and rolling hills are a pooch's paradise, it isn't always easy to find dog-friendly hotels or restaurants beyond the city. Accommodation is often limited to pods or huts, putting the more highbrow hotels out of bounds for four-legged friends, while options for food and drink can be sorely lacking.
So it was with some trepidation that I booked a trip to Skye with my springer/poodle Paddy. After blanching at some of the prices for dog-friendly Airbnbs, it was a huge relief to discover that the Skeabost House Hotel (one of Skye's oldest and finest hotels) had an array of dog-friendly rooms. It meant I could be looked after by the excellent hospitality of a traditional hotel, while Paddy was spoiled with a large garden area to run around in – plus his own dog bed to curl up in afterwards.
(Image: Skeabost House Hotel) The Skeabost, which began life as a hunting lodge in 1871, boasts an idyllic position on the edge of the River Snizort, the best salmon and trout fishing river on the island. But does that make it inaccessible? Far from it. I hopped on the local bus from right outside the hotel entrance –with Paddy in tow– and within 15 minutes arrived in the centre of Portree, the beating heart of Skye's culture and nightlife.
It was a pleasant surprise to discover that almost every pub and bar was dog-friendly, including the rather stylish Caberfeidh Bar and Restaurant, a moodily lit cocktail bar that wouldn't look out of place in the trendier haunts of Finnieston. There's more traditional Highland hospitality too, if that's what you are after, including in the Antlers Bar and Grill where we had delightful fish and chips, and in the Isles Inn, where we struck up conversation with visiting American tourists. Although, in truth, they were far more interested in saying hello to Paddy than to my partner and I.
The barmaid advised us that we could catch live traditional music at 1820 An Talla Mòr, a converted church that now operates as a bar and music venue – perhaps a microcosm of how Skye looks to adapt its once devoutly religious culture for a new generation. It was a complete joy to hear authentic music as part of the island's Trad Fest in such a setting, especially when the band called everyone up for a rendition of Strip the Willow (which even Paddy got whirled around for).
Nursing slightly sore heads the next morning, we made the short drive into Portree on the hunt for a pick-me up, promptly delivered via coffees and scones at Café Arriba. It's a quirky little venue – designed to look Latin American but with sweeping views over Portree harbour. A special mention must be given to their delightful staff, who made a huge fuss of Paddy and slipped him a dog biscuit (or seven).
We then braved the rain and howling winds with a drive to the Quiraing. This obscure formation of rocks was created via a landslide occurring over millions of years, a statistic wasted on Paddy, who was only interested in sniffing the grass.
(Image: Alex Burns) There's a straightforward path from the car park that leads to a cracking viewpoint – like many places on Skye, the Quiraing looks just as majestic in gloomy, cloudy conditions as it does on a bright sunny day. After a certain point though, the path narrowed considerably, and with Paddy determined to pull us along the slippy cliff edge we decided to return to the hotel.
A three-course meal at the Skeabost was the ideal way to warm up after our excursions, with the Maître d', John, charming us with his customer service and wine selections while politely correcting our awful pronunciation of some of the place names on Skye. Dogs weren't allowed in the restaurant, but it was a relief to have a night off from dog duties while knowing Paddy was happily snoring in the room.
After breakfast the next day we departed – on John's recommendation – to Ben Tianavaig for a hill walk. Although Skye boasts spectacular scenery on its Cuillin ridges, the rocky terrain and steep drops are unforgiving and have been the scene of several fatal accidents. Ben Tianavaig, in comparison, gives a gentle, grassy incline, much more suitable for dogs, and takes less than three hours to get up and down.
(Image: Alex Burns) Yet the views are still spectacular, taking in great swathes of the sea, surrounding hills and Isle of Raasay beyond. Feeling smug about our excursions, we decided we more than deserved a sweet treat from the Coffee Bothy on the road back towards the mainland.
I crossed back over the Skye bridge feeling mixed emotions. Relief, that the trip had been such a success, and that Paddy had been welcomed with open arms, but also genuinely sadness to be leaving after 48 short hours.
Knowing now how dog-friendly Skye really is, I am already planning a trip back in the summer. Those lockdown dreams might come true after all…
