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Indianapolis Star
6 days ago
- Entertainment
- Indianapolis Star
Popular fried chicken, country music spot once home to the Ice House will close this fall
After seven tumultuous years that saw multiple owners, hundreds of guitar-picking musicians and a whole lot of fried chicken, Duke's will close its doors for good this fall. The popular southside restaurant and honky-tonk bar, which in 2018 opened in the venue that the beloved Ice House bar occupied from 1983-2017, recently announced on social media that its last day of business will be Nov. 22. In posts to Facebook and Instagram, Duke's staff cited local competition, wear and tear on the bar's storied building and general economic challenges for the decision to "end things on our own terms" rather than close unexpectedly. "As a community we've mourned far too many sudden losses and we want to honor this magical space by giving y'all as much time as possible to say good-bye," the post read. Duke's began with the vision of Beech Grove native and onetime Sun King Brewing production manager Dustin Boyer, known to friends simply as D. In January 2018 Boyer told IndyStar he had had a vision for a Southern-inspired road house and live music venue for 12 years before he bought the spacious building at 2352 S. West St. Boyer named his passion project for his late grandfather, Hayes "Duke" Boyer. Duke's quickly found a following thanks to its acclaimed fried chicken and regular live music performances. But the popular haunt suffered its first major loss just three years later when Boyer died at age 40 on April 28, 2021. Boyer's close friend and financial partner Andy Fagg stepped in with a handful of employee-operators to run Duke's until late 2023, when Patrick Kennedy purchased the restaurant. In its farewell, Duke's staff invited customers to come make a few last memories at the restaurant and thanked the Indianapolis community for the last seven years. "It has been a tremendous honor and truly the joy of our lives to serve Indianapolis," the post read, "bringing independent country and western music artists to eager audiences, serving the best damn fried chicken and carrying the torch D lit."
Indianapolis Star
02-08-2025
- Entertainment
- Indianapolis Star
We tried 12 wild Indiana State Fair dishes and ranked them from worst to best
Every year, our IndyStar tasting team is more than happy to provide the important reader service of testing a variety of Indiana State Fair foods and telling you exactly what we think of them with no holds barred. This year, we sweat our way from one end of the fair to the other, sampling a bunch of new dishes and a few that we thought were just downright wild. Find our takes below, ranked from worst (one star) to best (five stars). We hope these insights help you make the best possible investment with your fair dollars. Freund Family Foods Gourmet Funnel Cakes. Across from Corteva Coliseum. $18. IndyStar taster rating:⭐ (1 star) Given my Italian heritage, I really wanted to enjoy this sampling of three famous flavors: Italian wedding cake, tiramisu and cannoli. But unfortunately, neither the cannoli nor tiramisu sections contained any oomph on the front end, and aftertastes were lacking as well. — Domenica Bongiovanni Indiana ribeye truck near the fair Midway. $12. IndyStar taster rating: ⭐⭐ (2 stars) This is not a drink. This is a tug-of-war battle between you and your little sibling. One sip in, you know it's too much sugar, you hand it over to them, but also, you're like, 'Wait, come back, I want it.' It's juicy, it's poppy (but only from the boba), and the flavor screams summer. That said, if you don't shake it around hard, you're just slurping syrup at the bottom like a hummingbird on a Red Bull bender. Sip with caution. And share with a sugar goblin you trust. — Sam Habashy Sun King Brewing in the Taproom across from the Indiana Farmers Coliseum. $12 for 16 ounces. IndyStar taster rating: ⭐⭐ (2 stars) Sun King's cotton candy ale didn't quite do for me what last year's pickle beer did, but that probably says more about me than the drink itself. This take on the classic state fair confection is surprisingly refreshing, with an ambiguously fruity taste that isn't as cloyingly sweet as the beer's frightening shade of teal might suggest. Alas, the opposing flavors just don't mesh as well as you'd hope, which may simply be the result of infusing a drink only consumed legally by people over 21 years old with a food eaten almost exclusively by people under the age of 10. — Bradley Hohulin Jamaican Breeze. Next to the Department of Natural Resources building near the main entrance. $12. IndyStar taster rating: ⭐⭐ ½ (2.5 stars) I was hoping for a trip to flavor town with this one, but sadly, it didn't deliver. The best way to describe the dish? Tame. The jerk sauce had a faint sweetness but lacked the bold, spice-rich taste you'd expect. The cheese was barely noticeable, leaving the fries feeling more like a missed opportunity than a standout snack. At $12, it's hard to justify the price for something so underwhelming. If you're craving bold Caribbean flavors, you might want to keep looking. — Ethan Hylton Dairy Bar. Across from Corteva Coliseum. $5. IndyStar taster rating: ⭐⭐⭐½ (3.5 stars) The barbecue sauce reminds me somewhat of Sweet Baby Ray's, which is a little too sweet for my Kansas City-groomed tastebuds. But the salty, creamy gouda and the slices of perfectly buttered and toasted bread make up for the slight sugar overreach. — Domenica Bongiovanni Black Leaf Vegan Food Truck. Across from Pioneer Village. $17. IndyStar taster rating: ⭐⭐⭐½ (3.5 stars) The plant-based "meat" is coated in a vegan "cheez" sauce that has a fruitiness reminiscent of the sticky-sweet coating on your favorite childhood mall Chinese chicken. The protein and peppers were cradled in a hoagie with enough fluff and chewiness to meet all of my expectations. Overall, this sandwich is a pleasant diversion from the deep-fried cheesy flavors that populate so much of the fair. — Domenica Bongiovanni Urick Concessions. Inside the Agriculture and Horticulture building. $20. IndyStar taster rating: ⭐⭐⭐½ (3.5 stars) If you're looking to escape the summer heat with a refreshing adult beverage, the brunch mimosa might be for you. Light, crisp and not overly sweet, the mimosa was a pleasant surprise, especially with white wine replacing the usual champagne. That twist added a subtle depth that worked well. However, at $20, I expected more from the accompanying fruits, waffles and donuts. They looked promising but didn't quite deliver on flavor. Overall, it's a fun treat if you're in the mood for something light and boozy, but the price-to-quality ratio holds it back. — Ethan Hylton Pickle barrel concession right when you enter by the Hoosier Free Stage lottery. $12. IndyStar taster rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐ (4 stars) This is what happens when your taste buds and your inner feral child make a pact. It's giving "a dare gone too far but also… kinda genius?" It tastes like a sleepover where no one's mom is supervising and someone goes, 'Let's mix everything in the pantry!' I felt nine years old and unhinged in the best way while eating this salty, sweet and weirdly nostalgic confection. I double-dog dare you to eat the whole thing without questioning your life choices — unlike my co-workers, who did not appreciate the admittedly odd flavor palate. — Sam Habashy Hook's Drugstore Museum by the Indiana Arts Building near Gate 1. $9. IndyStar taster rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐ (4 stars) A crisp cup of vanilla cold brew receives vanilla ice cream, whipped cream, Biscoff cookie butter and Biscoff crumbles, all topped with a maraschino cherry. The concoction looks untenably sweet, but it's a far cry from the massive syrup-spiked drive-thru iced coffees that makes you feel like you're having a panic attack after three sips. Aside from some slight whipped cream separation, everything comes together very nicely in a lovely mocha-colored swirl. Just know your limits — full-fat dairy and extra-strength coffee make this sweet treat quietly one of the more intestinally challenging offerings at the State Fair, which is saying a lot. — Bradley Hohulin Red Frazier Bison. Across from Pioneer Village. $20. IndyStar taster rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐ (4 Stars) Mind you, this was my first time trying bison, so I was a bit apprehensive going into this, but boy am I glad I tried it. The bison patty was cooked well and surprisingly juicy. What really stood out, though, was the Texas toast: crunchy, flavorful, and perfect for soaking up all those savory juices. I did discover that pimento cheese isn't my thing, but don't let that stop you — it's a solid burger overall. If you're feeling hangry and want a hearty, satisfying option, this is a safe bet. The $20 price tag is a little steep, but the quality makes it worth considering. — Ethan Hylton J&J A Taste of Home along the northwest side of the West Pavilion. $17 for two rolls. IndyStar taster rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐½ (4.5 stars) Following up last year's confoundingly delicious spaghetti and meat sauce egg rolls, J&J presents my favorite bite of the fair with a 4-inch payload of chopped chicken and cheese that is wrapped and fried, doused in a fire-orange blend of hot honey, lemon pepper and buffalo sauce and drizzled with ranch dressing. Combining the trademark flavors of Philadelphia, Atlanta, upstate New York and the Midwest feels almost heretical yet totally works here. While I admittedly miss the crispness of a traditional egg roll, the tang and heat of the sauces is a worthy trade-off, and I suppose it wouldn't be in the spirit of a Philly cheesesteak if the dish were even remotely tidy. — Bradley Hohulin Wilson concessions truck. By the agriculture building. $12. IndyStar taster rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐½ (4.5 stars) Bites? They meant it. These are the perfect portion sizes that fit in your mouth with no hassle. It's coated in just enough cinnamon sugar, but it's not overpowering. And the cereal is quite the throwback as I hadn't had it in years. The cookie butter drizzle is the main character. It adds a subtle softness to contrast the crunch. The bites were gone in minutes, and I was left wanting just one more. — Sam Habashy More: Taste of the Fair: Indiana State Fair announces new foods for 2025 Contact dining reporter Bradley Hohulin at bhohulin@ You can follow him on Twitter/X @BradleyHohulin and stay up to date with Indy dining news by signing up for the Indylicious newsletter.
