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Forbes
3 days ago
- Lifestyle
- Forbes
Why Now Is The Time To Sail The Azores, In 12 Stunning Photos
Hiking in São Miguel Island, Azores Millions of years ago, a dramatic series of volcanic events gave rise to nine islands in the middle of the North Atlantic called the Azores. Today, this amazing archipelago situated about 1,000 miles west of Portugal offers travelers adventure and escape from life on the mainland. Given that it's not particularly close to anywhere else, the experience of being here is like nowhere else. Give yourself a week to explore the outlying islands beyond São Miguel, because each has its own unique attributes. You'll discover dramatic coastal landscapes, epic hiking trails, bubbling volcanic hot springs, deep dark caldera caves, and slow cooked, homegrown food. Theirs is a culinary culture that celebrates the centuries-old skill of local dairy farmers, fisherman, tea planters and viticulturists who have figured out how to coax wine from basalt rocks — as if they just didn't get the memo on global industrialization. Which is fantastic. Because everything about it smells, tastes and feels distinctly Azorean. With direct flights now available via Azores Airlines from Boston and New York to Ponta Delgada (PDL) on São Miguel Island, reaching this mid-Atlantic paradise is easier than ever. Early summer is also particularly good for spotting blue whales and sperm whales, which are emblematic of the Azores. The Azores are a destination ideally seen from the bow of a ship, like the salty whalers of yore. The nine isles are organized into three geographic clusters—east, central, and west. You can take year-round ferries to get around each cluster, but that takes a lot of planning, flexibility and patience because the Azores are known for having four seasons in a day. Weather can change quickly, and all ferry services are subject to the weather. A more comfortable, upscale option is to consider one of Sea Cloud's yachts or a National Geographic-Lindblad cruise, which offers 8-day expeditions to the Azores including visits to Pico, Faial, São Jorge, Graciosa, Terceira, and Santa Maria. Most of these are original photos captured by passengers of National Geographic-Lindblad's Endurance, which sailed in April. We climbed down into caldera caves, patronized the best gin bar in the Azores, and survived an epic hike in São Jorge during a howling rain storm. Only one of us actually required an ATV rescue mission (provided by a friendly local farmer), while the rest of us soaking mewls scrambled down from the peak of Pico da Esperança mountain in search of lunch. 1) Terceira Island: Hiking Baias de Agualva Hiking Baias de Agualva, Terceira Island, Azores If someone tells you to 'take a hike!' by all means do it here. Known as Lilac Island, Terceira is lush and green with breathtaking viewpoints from practically all sides (it's the roundest of the Azores). Most of the coast is ringed by cliffs, bringing you straight to the precipice of the vast deep blue. The best part? It's not crowded compared to other Atlantic hiking destinations. So, it feels like having the ocean all to yourself. 2) Terceira's Angra do Heroísmo The Cathedral of Angra do Heroísmo, an example of Portuguese 16th-century architecture on Terceira Island, Azores. The Monte Brasil peninsula of Terceira provides excellent trails with panoramic views over Angra do Heroísmo, the Azores' oldest and most colorful town. A UNESCO World Heritage site since 1983, it is home to historic imperial Portuguese and Spanish architecture in varying shades of pinks, yellows, blues and purples. Take a stroll and look out for island-wide impérios, the dainty but incredibly ornate chapels of the Holy Spirit, of which there are 70. 3) Santa Maria: Island of Many Firsts Santa Maria Island. Photo by Paul Steinke (April, 2025). This striking photo by fellow Endurance sailor and avid photographer Paul Steinke really captures the spirit of Santa Maria for me. The laundry line, the sun-bleached house with a clay-tiled roof, the still horizon, and a fleeting moment with a tame horse who seems to say: Life is supposed to be this wild and free. Let's ride. I've never seen a horse in these circumstances before, but Santa Maria is an island of many firsts. It was the first Azorean island formed geologically, the first encountered by Portuguese explorers (1427), and the first settled by mainlanders (c. 1439). 4) Santa Maria's Pier A view from the pier in Cais Vila Porto, Santa Maria Island, Azores Arriving in Santa Maria alongside the commercial pier in Cais Vila Porto. Plan to spend a day here, as it is the only island in the archipelago that boasts blond beaches, as opposed to the rough volcanic sand found on its peers. 5) Pico's Vineyards Welcome to Pico, a dormant volcano whose claims to fame are whaling history and wine. Welcome to Pico, a dormant volcano whose claims to fame are whaling history and wine. Here you can take a leisurely hike through moonscape terrain left by lava flows that have been painstakingly converted to vineyards. Reach out and touch the rough lava stone corrals built up around the precious vines which produce three dominant varieties of white wine: Verdelho, Arinto dos Açores and Terrantez do Pico, which nearly went extinct but what survives adds complexity, elegance and floral notes to the other Pico whites. It's like ingenuity in a glass. 6) Faial: The Blue Island Waterfront view of the city of Horta, Faial Island, Azores, Portugal Faial, so named 'the blue island' due to the sheer quantity of bright hydrangeas that cover the island in July and August (another reason to make this a summer trip). As this is the mid-Atlantic's yachting capital, and an anchorage for caravels, clippers and seaplanes, the spirit of nautical bonhomie is pervasive. Stroll the marina and explore the jetty murals, where sailors have a tradition of painting the name or likeness of their vessel on the marina walls. 7) Horta: Peter Café Sport On Horta Island, this is Peter Café Sport, a legendary whaler's haunt with a scrimshaw museum upstairs. As evening approaches, go drink gin and tonic at Peter Café Sport, a legendary whaler's haunt with a stunning scrimshaw museum upstairs. It's a ramshackle pub that doubles as a time capsule. Firstly, there are widow's walks —lookout points facing the harbor in search of long lost whalers — still built into the surrounding architecture despite the fact that whaling has been outlawed in the Azores since 1984. It's also a place that inspires drunken re-tellings of In the Heart of the Sea (or so I've heard). The story recounts a New England whaling ship's sinking by a savage sperm whale in 1820, the real-life event that inspired Herman Melville's Moby Dick. The movie stars Chris Hemsworth. Enough said? 8) The Whales A sperm whale off the coast of Faial, Azores. Pico, São Miguel and Faial are considered the best islands for whale watching. Did you know sperm whales float vertically to the surface to breathe? There are few marvels in this world so beautiful to witness. The other perk of a Nat Geo expedition is that they typically invite whale experts on board, like Douglas Nowacek, a PhD from MIT and professor at Duke University's Marine Lab, to tell you everything scientists know about the mating habits, sound production and migration patterns of marine mammals. 9) Graciosa: The Caldera Cave Visitors inside Furna do Enxofre, a caldera cave found in Graciosa Island, Azores. Aptly named, this 'graceful' remote island is a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve thanks to its Furna do Enxofre, a caldera cave that is considered the most significant geosite in the Azores. Look up and you'll see a stunning natural ceiling of stalactites that create a home for birds and bats; look down and let the damp stone staircase guide you 300 feet underground to this ethereal lake. 10) The Sulfur Grotto The lake inside Furna do Enxofre, Graciosa Island, Azores This lake occupies the deepest part of the cave, which lies below sea level. It's a secret world where the smell of sulphur is omnipresent, and you can actually see it bubbling up from beneath the surface. 11) São Miguel: Geothermic Hotsprings The town of Furnas on São Miguel Island The small town of Furnas on the eastern part of São Miguel looks otherworldly. Picture a landscape of steaming hot springs and fumaroles, gurgling mud pools and geothermal fields encircled by bright green mountains and lush botanical gardens. Through the fog, you kind of wonder how it's not erupting right now. While you ponder this, head over to the island's popular tea plantation Gorreana and ask to taste purple tea (what happens when hot green tea mixes with the unoxidized iron found in volcanic waters). 12) São Jorge: Cheese Island On São Jorge island, there are more cows than people. You can't come to São Jorge and not pay homage to the cows, because there are more cows than people (population: ~8,000). So, this is also known as cheese island. Queijo São Jorge cheese is deliciously salty because we're in the middle of the North Atlantic. 'We say seven cows per person,' jokes our Portuguese hiking guide Everisto. But it's no joke: Hiking Pico da Esperança mountain means hiking right alongside heifers-in-the-mist, through cow dung of Jurassic proportions. Even in relentless rain, it's all worth it if you can make it down to the Fajã de Santo Cristo, a spectacular, secluded sanctuary for bodyboarding and surfing. The best time to do it? All summer long.
Forbes
15-05-2025
- Forbes
The World's Largest Hotel Gin Collection? It's Not Where You Think
Ali Bullock at the Gin Library at Solar Branco Eco Estate in the Azores Adam Morganstern Lots of travelers bring home a bottle of local gin from their vacation, but one hotel in the Azores has people packing a bottle when they leave for their trip instead. 'The rules are if they bring one I already have — I get to keep it,' laughs Ali Bullock, proprietor of the Solar Branco Eco Estate on the island of São Miguel. 'But if it's a new one they get to swap it for one of my gins. It's amazing. We're getting incredible gins that you will never see anywhere else in the world all in one place.' With this organic approach, and a slew of international guests bringing small-batch craft gins from their hometowns, Bullock has recently announced the addition of his 2,000th bottle and claims the largest gin collection of any hotel in the world. 'We started with my own personal stash of 300 and now we have bottles from 72 countries and every continent except Antarctica,' says Bullock. 'We'll have someone visit from a small town in Tasmania and say 'You don't have my local gin' and I'll say 'Here it is.'' The Gin Library at Solar Branco Estate Rui Soares The collection is on display at the hotel's 'Gin Library,' a former farmer's cottage on the property, which was built in the 1800s. All guests are invited for a complimentary gin and tonic every evening, and there are gin flights and gin masterclasses available as well. And for those who want to taste through the rarities among the 2,000 bottles — the Library has a very democratic approach. 'It's €14 to have a drink with any of them.' says Bullock, 'All the same price.' But was there ever one he liked so much that he took it out of the library to keep all for himself? 'Yes, a Jettywave from California,' he admits. 'But then I brought it back because I thought everyone should enjoy it.' Unsurprisingly, Bullock met his wife (and co-proprietor of Solar Branco) Caroline Bullock over a gin and tonic. 'I was helping out at a friend's bar and saw her across the room and handed her a drink and said 'this is for you,'' laughs Bullock. The English couple married and both took jobs that moved them to Hong Kong. After 15 years there they were ready for a change and they decided to open a hotel on the Azores which they had visited on their honeymoon. Bullock had stringent requirements for the kind of place he wanted to run. 'I've been to a hundred countries. I've fallen in love on holidays, I've been dumped on holidays. I've fallen in love and been dumped on the same holiday. I've been mugged and I've been in the middle of a military coup. But the one thing I've always hated most is every single minibar. My minibar will be free!' Solar Branco Eco Estate Courtesy of Solar Branco Eco Estate Along with the complimentary minibar Solar Branco Eco Estate holds comfort and sustainability as equally important goals. There are eight luxury suites and cottages, four of which are located in the 'solar' (the original country mansion). The hotel uses solar power for up to 80% of its energy use, grows produce on site (and buys the majority of the rest from local farmers), has 50 cage-free chickens foraging on the property and bans single-use plastics. 'And we have the most comfortable beds in Portugal,' boasts Bullock. The hotel also supports the Ocean Azores Foundation, another of Bullock's projects, that has made the surrounding waters of the islands (an autonomous region of Portugal) a whale sanctuary. Bullock has also combined his love of the ocean and whales with his favorite spirit, and distills his own line of gins called 'Ghosts of the Ocean.' The lineup of ten gins includes 'Baleia' which is made with local seaweed in the base, 'Azorean Yuzu' made with Japanese citrus that is grown on the island, as well as a 'London Dry' and a 'Medusa Pink Gin.' But one of the closest to Bullock's heart is his 'September 10 1987 Limited Edition' — named for the day after the last whale was killed in the Azores and the ban on the practice went into effect. 'I didn't want to celebrate the last day one died, I wanted to celebrate the day they became protected.' Sushi dinner at Senhor Raposa's Secret Drinking Den Rui Soares The Gin Library is open to all visitors, not just hotel guests, and those wanting an even more special experience can arrange a sushi dinner at 'Senhor Raposa's Secret Drinking Den,' a speakeasy hidden behind one of the gin-covered bookshelves. Chef Joana, a native of São Miguel, offers an omakase-style dinner featuring local fish paired with the extensive gin collection (vegetarian and vegan options are also available). 'Senhor Raposa was the gentleman who built this estate in the 1800s,' says Bullock. 'Legend has it he left the island at age 15 in search of an adventure and came back a very wealthy man. But when he returned it was decades later and no one knew who he was. So they nicknamed him 'Senhor Raposa' which means 'Mr. Fox.'' Along with the Jettywave from California, some of Bullock's favorite gins from the collection include Tarquin's Cornish Gin from the U.K., ClemonGold gin from South Africa, Hapusa Himalayan Dry Gin from India, 44°N Gin from France and Arapuru Gin from Brazil. The collection includes rarities from places most people have never had a gin from, including Bolivia, Botswana, Uganda, Bulgaria and Guatemala. 'That's the great thing about having guests from around the world coming together over drinks,' says Bullock. 'Everyone can put their political or cultural differences aside. The one thing that unites everyone is gin.' And though he's hit his marker for claiming the world's largest hotel gin collection, Bullock doesn't seem to want to rest on his laurels. 'I told my wife I'd stop at 1,000 — then I told her I'd stop at 1,500,' says Bullock. 'And now we're at 2,000, but there's got to be at least 15,000 more in the world. So will I stop at 4,000? I think as long as people bring us more gin, why would we stop? I'll just keep building more shelves.'
Forbes
12-05-2025
- Forbes
Top Things To Do In The Azores: Discover Portugal's Hidden Island Gem
Sete Citidades, the Azores Roughly half way across the Atlantic Ocean between continental Europe and North America are the Azores, a group of nine Portuguese volcanic islands offering a fantastic blend of natural beauty, rich culture and outdoor adventure. With lush landscapes, dramatic coastlines and beautiful lakes, the Azores are an undiscovered gem for nature lovers, hikers and travelers seeking a peaceful getaway. Whether you're exploring the volcanic craters of São Miguel, taking a dip. in hot springs or attending the annual experimental music festival, Tremor, the island of São Miguel, the largest of the Azorean archipelago, is a truly magical destination. The Zenmenn at Tremor Festival 2025 Tremor, an annual experimental music festival every April, is reason enough to visit the Azores. Portuguese and international artists perform in wonderful indoor settings and spectacular outdoor venues across the island. Tickets for the next festival (24-28 March 2026) are being released in stages and are already available. Sete Cidades lake in The Azores If you visit the Azores for Tremor, you'll have plenty of time to explore Sao Miguel as gigs are mostly in the evenings. Start with a private island tour with Get Your Guide. The company's 4×4 Tour from Ponta Delgada Day Tour with Sete Cidades will take you to view crater lakes, volcanic landscapes, with a stop for a traditional village meal. Within a massive volcanic caldera, the twin lakes of Sete Cidades present one of São Miguel's most incredible landscapes, a must for any visit to Sao Miguel. The derelict Monte Palace, a former French-owned 5-star hotel on the edge of a crater. Another unexpected highlight of the tour is a visit to the ruined Monte Palace, a former French-owned 5-star hotel on the edge of a crater. The hotel opened in 1991 and closed just over a year later. It's been derelict ever since. Visitors are able to explore five floors of ruined corridors, rooms and balconies unrestricted while marvelling at walls covered in colorful paintings and grafitti. A sperm whale off Sao Miguel Island, Azores, Portugal. Situated on a key Atlantic marine migration route, the Azores are a world-renowned whale-watching destination. Futurismo Azores Adventures is a great choice for a whale watching adventure from the harborin Ponta Delgado. With expert biologist guides and spotters working from inland, you'll have an excellent chance of encountering cetaceans, including sperm whales and dolphins, as you embark on an unforgettable boat tour. While it's not guaranteed that you'll see anything (especially whales), if you see nothing, Futurismo allows a second (free) outing. Half day (early morning or afternoon) excursions are 65€. Arquipélago – Contemporary Art Center Indeed, Sao Miguel has a thriving contemporary art scene. Arquipélago – Contemporary Art Center just above the seaside at Ribeira Grande is in a 19th-century alcohol and tobacco factory. The imposing volcanic stone building houses several temporary exhibitions each year in an attempt to combine local heritage with contemporary artistic expression. Vaga, a contemporary art space in Ponta Delgado Vaga, in Ponta Delgado, is a contemporary art space with engaging temporary shows and events that's also the headquarters of a new art biennial, Walk and Talk that will launch 25 September and run until 30 November 2025. For Gestures of Abundance, invited international artists and curators will consider how we can change our perception of scarcity to one of cooperative abundance. MAAT, Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology, Building, Belem, Lisbon, Portugal. The Portuguese capital deserves a special mention as you'll likely get your connecting flight to the Azores here. If you fly TAP, you'll have a free stopover to stay a night or two to explore Lisbon. There's plenty to enjoy, and a perfect day could include a visit to the contemporary art museum Maat (Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology) on the outskirts of Lisbon in Belem, a stroll along the River Tagus past the 25 de Abril bridge (commemorating the Carnation Revolution that ended the Portuguese dictatorship and established democracy in 1974) and a stop in the famous cafe and bakery Pasteis de Belem to discover and taste the famous custard tarts, pastel de nata. O Americo, the Azores Azorean food is a flavorful fusion of land and sea. From the ocean, you'll find limpets (small shellfish), octopus and tuna on most menus. And from the land, traditional stews like cozido das Furnas, dairy products and pineapples. Baked goods are very particular to the islands, including bolo lêvedo, a soft, muffin-like flatbread from Furnas that's lightly sweet and perfect for breakfast or as a sandwich bun. Many Azorean desserts feature eggs, cinnamon and local cheese, such as queijadas da Vila, a creamy tart from Terceira made with fresh cheese and sugar. Restaurante Monte Verde on the beachfront in Ribeira Grande is a family-run traditional restaurant that's been serving fish since 1986. The grilled tuna served with tomato rice and potatoes is excellent. Grilled octopus at O Americo Grilled Octopus with potatoes is a firm favorite at family-run O Américo de Barbosa in Mosterios: an essential lunch stop when touring the island. In Ponta Delgada, if you'd like a change from fish, Nonnas serves authentic and delicious Neapolitan pizza using Italian and local ingredients. Green love is a calm pitstop for coffee and cake (try the sweet cheese tart, queijada San Jorge), while sightseeing in Sete Citades. Holy Cow guesthouse, Ponta Delagada Neat hotel is a 3 star, well equipped business hotel in an ideal location near the main attractions of Ponta Delgada. For something with lots of character, The Holy Cow is a cute guesthouse with five guestrooms, a comfortable lounge, terrace and an excellent continental breakfast with local products. Sao Miguel, Azores, Portugal São Miguel is a two-hour flight from Lisbon and Oporto, and a six-hour flight from Boston. Ponta Delgada's João Paulo II Airport is only ten minutes from downtown and is serviced by several national airlines with both direct and easy connecting flights. With daily flights to the Azores from Lisbon, TAP Air Portugal is a good option. The airline offers flights from London Heathrow and London Gatwick to Ponta Delgada, the Azores, via Lisbon. An optional free stopover in Lisbon on the way there or back is a great way to extend your trip and see more of Portugal. If traveling from North America, TAP flies from Boston, Chicago, Miami, Montreal, New York, San Francisco, Toronto and Washington to the Azores, via Lisbon and offers the same free stopover. While there are local buses on Sao Miguel, they aren't frequent and you'll waste precious hours getting to places. The roads are well maintained so a better option is to rent a car from an agency like the excellent Azores Easy Rent who will pick up and drop off at your hotel or the airport. All cars come with unlimited mileage and their Super Easy Insurance pack is the best option.
