Latest news with #TaiyabaAli
Mint
6 days ago
- Entertainment
- Mint
Weekend food plan: Regional pop-up menus
Odisha's diverse culinary traditions remain largely unexplored in the mainstream dining scene, despite its unique temple feasts, lip-smacking street snacks, and home cooking that honours seasonality and local produce. Savour all this and more at an ongoing Odia food pop-up, where the menu is thoughtfully curated by chef Ananya Banerjee, featuring favourites like dahi bada aloo dum, muri mansa, which is mutton curry served with puffed rice, kukuda bhaja, or fire-roasted chicken, dalma (lentils and vegetables), macha besara, or mustard-based fish curry to name a few. End your meal with Odisha's cult sweet dish chena poda, or baked cottage cheese. When: Until 31 July Where: HyLo, Building 30, K Dubash Marg, Kala Ghoda, Fort, Mumbai Contact: 9004191901 Enjoy the last of the mango season with a pop-up that celebrates the king of fruits in all its glory. 'Aam Baat' is crafted by chef and writer Taiyaba Ali, and is a seven-course meal that reflects her heritage, borrowing from her roots in Malihabad (Lucknow district), which is known for its exceptional dasheri mangoes. Hosted at Indica, the menu beautifully blends in the romance of a much-loved fruit, with memory and storytelling. Highlights include dal moradabadi, qalya amba or mutton served with sheermal and a sweet and tangy salsa, and akhti that comes as a tofu (vegetarian)/prawn (non-vegetarian) dumpling paired with raw mango and mustard. When:25 & 26 July (dinner), 26 & 27 July (lunch) Where: Indica, Kh. 620, GF, Zero Number Road Ghitroni, New Delhi Contact: 9810233892 Home chefs Arati Naik and Reshma Mane have teamed up for a pop-up experience that combines their rich food cultures of Kolhapur and Karwar. The thali menu comprises dishes from both the regions with a focus on spicy mutton delicacies like pandhara rassa, chicken Kolhapuri, raw banana vade, meat and prawn pickles, and coconut-rich curries. From tisrya (clams) and prawns to fried fish and dried mackerel kismori (salad/accompaniment), this is a feast for seafood lovers. When: 25 July (dinner), 26 & 27 July (lunch) Where: Lallubhai Park, Andheri (W), Mumbai Contact: 9819875010
Time of India
18-07-2025
- General
- Time of India
Cooking with mangoes: Aam's the khaas ingredient in desi kitchens
From tenderisers in meat curries to desserts, comforting dals, pickles and chutneys that pack summer in a jar From intensely sweet and floral alphonso and kesars to tangy varieties like totapuri and langda, Indian mangoes span a wide flavour profile. They stir senses, spark nostalgia and find a special place in the Indian regional kitchens. Just as their taste and texture vary, so do their culinary uses, with every region giving the fruit its distinctive twist – from tenderisers in meat curries to desserts, comforting dals, pickles and chutneys that pack summer in a jar. Adding a tang with kachcha aam Raw mangoes, prized for their tartness, are a common thread in regional Indian cuisines, used to add freshness, tang and complexity to savoury dishes. Mamadikaya pulihora A summer favourite in Andhra Pradesh, mamidikaya pulihora is a tangy rice dish made with grated raw mango, tempered with mustard seeds, curry leaves and green chilies. Mamadikaya pulihora (Pic: @chefreetuudaykugaji) C hef Sadaf Hussain, who curated a mango-inspired menu for a recent Bazm-e-Aam event, says, 'There's no other fruit that offers such versatility, from raw to ripe.' His regional spread featured dishes like Gujarat's ras no fajeto, Manipur's heinou metpa, Andhra's mamidikaya pulihora (mango rice), Bihar's aam ka koocha, and Rajasthan's kachche aam ki kheer - all celebrating mangoes across India's culinary map. ' Mango preserves Mango preserves are a part of many culinary cultures. Be it aam ki launji, galka or gudamba, raw mangoes are used to make sweet-spicy jams across the country. About the culinary use of mangoes in Bihar, chef Nishant Choubey, says, 'Gudamba is a chutney-like preparation made from raw mangoes, jaggery and red chillies. It is a mix of sweet and sour with a hint of heat.' The jam-like galka, made with raw mangoes and sugar or jaggery, is a Lakhnawi household favourite, says chef Taiyaba Ali. Green mangoes are indispensable in Bengali kitchens (Pic: @samitacuriouscook_) Aam bata In Bengali cuisine, aam bata is a traditional raw mango mash or paste, typically made in the summer. It is prepared by boiling or roasting green mangoes, then mashing them with mustard oil, salt and green chillies. Aam bata (Pic: @samitacuriouscook) Achraj Achraj is a traditional minced-mutton dish of the Awadhi cuisine. It blends finely minced goat meat cooked in aromatic spices and enriched with raw mango, added towards the end for a sharp, tangy finish. In the Awadhi cuisine, chef and writer Taiyaba Ali notes that raw mango is used not just for its flavour but as a tenderiser. 'One will see raw mango being cooked with meat, like in Achraj, a qeema and aam dish.' In her recently curated seven-course mango-forward dining experience, Aam Baat, the chef featured a mix of traditional dishes inspired by home-cooked Awadhi food with a twist, like acharaj pulao. Achraj, prepared by chef Sadaf Hussain as a part of a five-course mango-forward dinner Indulgence with the sweet ripe side If raw mango adds tartness, ripe mango is all about indulgence. Chef Ashish Bhasin reflects on how mango is deeply rooted in the Indian food psyche 'Unlike fruits introduced through invasions, mango is truly ours. Ripe mangoes lend a natural sweetness. Balanced with spices, they create flavours that are deeply Punjabi. Fajeto Fajeto is a Gujarati kadhi where the puree of ripe mangoes meets whisked curd and besan. It is slow-cooked with ginger, green chillies, and spices and topped with a generous ghee tempering of mustard, cumin, fenugreek, cinnamon and dry red chilli. Fajeto (Pic: @chefreetuudaykugaji) Aamras Aamras is a silky mango puree made from ripe mangoes, typically flavoured with cardamom or saffron. 'Popular in Maharashtra and Gujarat, it's often served chilled with puris as a summer delicacy. Aamras (Pic: @chefreetuudaykugaji) The mango seed acts as a preservative for aamras and prevents enzymatic browning or oxidation when aamras comes in contact with the oxygen in the air,' shares culinary consultant Reetu Kugaji, adding, 'The natural balance of sugar and acidity in mangoes, along with its ability to absorb spices, makes them ideal for traditional sweets like aamras, aamrakhand or mambazha payasam' Mambazha pulissery In Kerala, the sweet side of mangoes is showcased in dishes like pulissery, a yoghurt-based curry, where the fruit imparts richness while the yoghurt provides tang. 'It's a balance of sweet and sour that defines summer meals in the south,' adds chef Rakesh Raghunathan. Mambazha pulissery (Pic: @_usha_mathew_) Amrakhand Amrakhand, a delicious blend of ripe mango pulp and creamy hung curd, enhanced with sugar, cardamom and saffron. Enriched with blanched charoli seeds, pistachios, almonds; amrakhand is a chilled, fragrant indulgence that captures the soul of Maharashtrian and Gujarati summers Amrakhand (Pic: @chefreetuudaykugaji) Mango leather The chewy, sun-dried slices of mango takes on different names across India. It's known as aam papad in the North, mamidi tandra in Andhra Pradesh, amba poli in Maharashtra and aam sotto in Bengal. Usually made with ripe mango pulp sweetened with sugar or jaggery, some regional recipes add a bit of raw mango for a tangy twist. In Bengali cuisine, too, ripe mangoes shine in festive fare. 'We make payesh (rice pudding), doi (mango-infused curd), sandesh, sotto (aam papad) and even enjoy ripe mango with boiled rice,' says Samita Haldar. Mango leather (@msaggarwal)
Time of India
24-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Time of India
Bengal's mangoes find a home in Awadhi flavours
Chef and writer Taiyaba Ali known for documenting and celebrating home cooked aspects of Lucknawi cuisine brought to Kolkata her pop-up titled Aam Baat co-curated by Shuli Ghosh of Sienna and bespoke experiences designer, Rini Chatterjee on June 14. The pop-up delved deeper into everyone's love for mangoes through a seven-course dinner of mango inspired dishes. While the pop-up represented Awadh and its flavours, the highlight of the seven-course dinner was the Jugalbandi between the flavours of Awadh and the mangoes of Bengal. Alongside the pop-up, we caught up with the chef who told us about the versatility of mangoes, its use in Awadhi cuisine and more. Riwayat aur raunaq: Breathing new life into old Awadhi recipes Chef Taiyaba Ali approaches her craft with a profound respect for culinary heritage, yet she believes in its dynamic evolution. 'Cultural continuity demands a balance between nostalgia and relevance. That's the lens I bring to every menu: to honour tradition while pushing its edges." For Chef Taiyaba, Awadhi cuisine is far from a static historical artifact. "Awadhi cuisine, rich with stories, techniques, and community wisdom, deserves to be seen not as historic but as something very much alive and moving forward, as a cuisine of the local communities as much as of the Nawabs,' she added. Mango- the muse, the medicine, the philosophy Mango is far more than just a sweet seasonal treat. Chef Taiyaba Ali, in her recent Kolkata pop-up, demonstrated its incredible versatility, calling it a "seasonal muse" that respectfully bridged two distinct culinary worlds. "With mango as our seasonal muse, this pop-up pays tribute to Lucknow's kitchens and flavours, while gently conversing Kolkata's lovely mangoes," Historically, the mango's role extended beyond mere flavour. 'Mango was integral to nutrition, medicine, and even philosophy. In the royal kitchens of Lucknow, raw mango proved its multifaceted genius by acting as a natural tenderizer in meat dishes, lending not only a distinctive sourness but also unique textures and sophisticated techniques, as seen in forgotten gems like Achraj (minced meat with raw mango) or Kalyan Amba (mutton simmered with mango). Furthermore, its adaptability shines through its ability to be savoured fresh in season or ingeniously preserved—pickled, dried, and stored—to enrich meals long after summer fades,' added the chef. 'Both Awadhi and Bengali cuisines thrive on seasonality. While the flavours of our menu were rooted in Lucknow, we made it a point to use mangoes local to Kolkata—like Gulab Khas and Himsagar, fazli. That's where the magic really began' 'We wanted diners to experience the emotional landscape of mango—its joy, nostalgia, surprise, and simplicity. Each course is anchored in a different variety of mango, reflecting how it's loved in different pockets of Lucknow at different times' 'I want people to feel the plurality of mangoes, of communities, of recipes passed down quietly over generations. The real flavour of Indian mangoes is not singular' -Chef Taiyaba Ali On the menu >Aam papdi >Dal moradabai >Murgi karari kairi wali >Akhti >Aam panna popsicle >Qalya amba >Achraj Pulao >Mango balai
The Hindu
28-04-2025
- Entertainment
- The Hindu
Bengaluru's chefs are curating Indian meals, sushi, and bar snacks with mangoes
The king of fruits is finally here and is lining local markets, larders, and restaurant menus alike. For those looking at eating seasonal, now is the time to indulge in all varieties and forms of mango. . Be it in a curry or cheesecake, a soup or sushi, chefs in Bengaluru are crafting menus to celebrate the fruit in all its glory. Chef Taiyaba Ali, former headchef and curator at the erstwhile Awadhi restaurant Khanposh, is all set to host her pop-up dedicated to the mango from May 2 to May 4at The Conservatory. Titled Aam Baat, the seven-course tasting menu focusses on the beauty of cooking with raw mangoes. The chef, who hails from Malihabad near Lucknow, says the region is popularly known as India's mango capital. 'The mango season starts earlier in South India. We get our mangoes only by July and August. While the rest of the country is enjoying the fruit, we cook with the raw variants,' says Taiyaba, who has crafted dishes including aam paapdi, akhti (tofu dumplings with raw mango), and dal Moradabaadi. Varieties such as the dussehri, alphonso, and mallika will be used for desserts, the sidhura for chutneys and in stews (instead of jaggery), she adds. Raw mango, says Taiyeba, is commonly used as a meat tenderiser in Lucknow. 'We cook a lot of red meat and raw mango together,' she says, adding how she aims to represent home kitchens and the women in Lucknow's food scene. 'My focus is always on dishes that come from homes. For example, there are no kebabs or biryanis on my menus, and even if I do have them, there is a homestyle inspiration.' The menu, Taiyeba says, not only celebrates culinary heritage, but is a 'political commentary of representation and identity. I want to bring to the fore our style of cooking. There is a generalisation that people in Lucknow eat meat everyday, but that isn't true. Many aren't prosperous enough to afford meat on a daily basis.' For instance, a vegetable preparation common in Lucknow's Hindu households, she says, is made with potato, okra, kalonji (nigella seeds), and raw mango. 'I have revisited this dish for the menu's third course. Mysubz karari kairi wali features crispy layered potatoes, totapuri mango mayonnaise, and okra chips.' On a platter Another dish that has been adapted to suit local tastes is the mango seekarne with jowar bhakri at Kamat Restaurant's various branches. Akashrai Kamat, COO, Kamat Yatrinivas, says the seekarne is similar to the aamras, but has a savoury twist. 'We cook the mangoes in a flavourful broth, and then give it a tadka,' he says. 'Traditionally, the dish was called mangoupkari, but when we started making it, we called it seerkarne.' The restaurant is also serving other delicacies like aamras, and amrakhand, and a mango menu is being offered at their Malleswaram branch. The latter, called Mavina menu, features dishes such as mango rasayana, aamchuri chana masala and raw mango sambar. For the last three years, Hallimane's mango meal has been popular on social media, and Raghavendra Sanjeeva Rao, managing partner at the Malleswaram restaurant, says the response has been overwhelming. Usually available only in May, this year they kickstarted the special meal in April due to the high demand. 'We use varieties such as totapuri, alphonso, and sindhura that we source from Ratnagiri and Krishnagiri, and have dedicated teams for each part of the meal,' says Raghavendra, who has temporarily discontinued the breakfast menu to focus on the mango meal that is served on a plantain leaf. 'We want it to be worth the wait.' Available for lunch and dinner until May 31, the meal comprises dishes such as holige, rasmalai, halbai, chitrana, kadabu and kosambari all using mango. Starting May 1, the meal will also be available for lunch (with options to pre-book) at their newly-opened Dose Camp at Kalyan Nagar. With diners coming in from Delhi and Mumbai, the restaurant caters to an average of 1,000-1,500 diners for the lunch service on weekends. On what prompted them to curate this menu, Raghavendra says, 'We have friends in Maharashtra who make dishes with the mango, and I learnt how to make mango malai. When I tried to replicate it here, it did not turn out well so I made it into a holige. This was popular on our menu for many years, as were the mango milkshake, mango halwa, etc. A food blogger wanted to shoot these dishes as a platter, and when that went viral, we went on to curate a mango menu, and later expanded to a full-fledged meal.' Alphonso in your sushi Regional favourites aside, chefs are giving the mango a contemporary twist in international cuisines too. At Fatty Bao, their seasonal menu features mango avocado cream cheese sushi and mango maki, among others. Tushar Fernandes, local partner at Olive Bar & Kitchen (that runs Monkey Bar, Cantan and Fatty Bao in Bengaluru), says mango is the star of their summer menu. 'Besides the year-round raw mango salad, we use varieties of ripe mangoes in sushi, salads, compotes, desserts, and sangrias. Currently, we work with small farms around Bengaluru, and mainly use the alphonso and badami varieties.' At Monkey Bar, a mango festival will kick off in May and highlights include a mango chicken salad and tandoor paneer with a spicy mango mix. Brand Chef Ashley DSouza says the mangoes (totapuri and banganapalli) this year are being sourced from Velanga Orchards in Andhra Pradesh. 'The recipes are centred around Asian flavours, and Indian classics. For example, I am using raw mango in a house-made curry with coastal tones, and also using mango as a bar snack much like you'd find at a local toddy shop.'
