Latest news with #TamanCheras
Malay Mail
26-07-2025
- Malay Mail
From peerless risottos to pistachio fondant, hidden upstairs café CHUMS is worth the climb in Taman Cheras
KUALA LUMPUR, July 26 — The first spoonful still stays with me: a dashi-softened risotto carrying a savoury warmth that unfolds gently, each grain holding a quiet hum before giving way to the sea-sweetness of Hokkaido scallops. Their caramelised edges provide the lightest contrast, snow peas snapping green through the richness, trout roe scattering bright bursts of brine that sharpen everything for a heartbeat. This is the Hokkaido Scallop Risotto at CHUMS, a café-restaurant blending Australian flavours with a Malaysian touch, and it's divine. The shop's entrance is easy to miss (left). Iced Americano and Genmai Lemon Tea (right). — Pictures by CK Lim Located in a row of shophouses in the always-busy Taman Cheras (also known as Yulek), CHUMS isn't the sort of place you stumble upon; its sign at street level is easy to miss, and the four of us almost did. The climb up a narrow staircase leads us into a room where pale wood furnishing reigns. Potted greens anchor the space, and a faint trace of dried eucalyptus drifts in the air, clean and herbal. The restaurant-café feels aptly named; 'chums' is but another way of saying 'close friends', after all, so we feel the place was made for our little quartet. The space is washed with soft daylight. — Picture by CK Lim Indeed, this isn't a room designed for haste, but one that invites us to take our time, to let the meal stretch into the afternoon. Three of us order black coffee, iced Americanos brewed from Ethiopia Sidama beans that reveal themselves slowly — blueberry brightness at first, then bergamot's floral trace, finishing with the gentle sweetness of demerara sugar. The fourth opts for an iced Genmai Lemon Tea, its citrus brightness layered over the toasted warmth of roasted rice, a refreshing counterpoint that lingers just long enough. The space is washed with soft daylight. Small details such as wine bottles filled with fresh flowers by the windowsill catch our eyes. It feels almost an interruption to our meditative reverie when our mains finally arrive, each set before us like a quiet offering. Duck Rigatoni (left). Wine bottles with fresh flowers (right). — Pictures by CK Lim Across from me, the Duck Rigatoni holds a wine-dark sauce, each hollow tube heavy with braise, shreds of duck collapsing under their own tenderness, red wine and herbs still resonant in the meat. Cheddar lends a sharpness, an edge that cuts through the warmth, while mozzarella brings a gentle stretch, a milky softness that lingers between bites. It is a sturdy dish, layered and deeply savoury. My own Iberico Pork Risotto unfolds in pale rose hues, threads of cured jowl weaving nutty sweetness through the rice. The rose cream adds its delicate perfume, pesto flecks bring bright herbal notes whilst dollops of spring onion cream cheese add a welcoming tang. I taste a spoonful and then another. This might be a dish one feels the least inclined to share, if I'm honest. It's the dish that stays with me the most, surpassing even the scallop risotto that another had ordered and that we have all sampled. (Do note that the Iberico Pork Risotto is typically a dinner menu item; however, the staff had kindly informed me they had it available for lunch too. Lucky me.) Iberico Pork Risotto (left). Fish & Chips (right) -- Pictures by CK Lim Fish & Chips might seem a terribly safe choice, but the most effortless of dishes (at least seemingly so) can be the hardest to perfect. Barramundi, cloaked in a batter so fine it shatters at the touch, gives way to flesh white and mild, its brininess momentarily lifted by a squeeze of lemon. Golden fries, edges just catching crispness, beg to be dragged through tartar sauce, caper-sharp yet mellowed by cream. As good as the original wrapped in greasy old newspapers in a London chippy. When the plates are cleared, conversation drifts into its own rhythm until desserts arrive, meant for all of us to share. The 'Crack It' Tiramisu comes first, its cacao-dusted chocolate lid waiting to be struck; we tap it gently, shards splintering into rum-laced mascarpone and sponge soaked through with espresso, bitter coffee and cocoa balancing the warmth of spirit. The 'Crack It' Tiramisu. — Pictures by CK Lim Then the Pistachio Fondant, unassuming in its muddy green crust, gives way to a slow spill of molten pistachio cream. Its nut-buttery richness is balanced by the bright, tropical chill of passion fruit gelato, a fleeting equilibrium of heat and brightness that has us chasing the last spoonfuls. By the time the plates are empty, the afternoon has slipped into an unhurried tempo, as though time itself has loosened its hold. We sit there a while longer, reluctant to disturb what we've found — this pocket of light, the lingering scent of eucalyptus, the simple pleasure of a meal shared without hurry. Descending the staircase back into the street, I carry the memory not as a list of flavours but as a trace of warmth, the kind that remains when the company and the conversation are what you remember most. Pistachio Fondant.— Pictures by CK Lim CHUMS 16, Jalan Kaskas 3, Taman Cheras, KL Open Fri-Wed 12pm-10pm; Thu closed Phone: 012-370 2972 IG: FB: *This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal. *Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.
Malay Mail
23-05-2025
- Business
- Malay Mail
For braised duck rich in flavour and character, head to Mr Duck Teowchew Braised in Taman Desa Aman, Cheras
KUALA LUMPUR, May 23 — Last month, I wrote a story about Ah Sang Teochew Restaurant, a business that has been selling braised duck in the Taman Cheras (Yulek) area since the 1980s. In that piece, I cited a Guang Ming Daily article that traced the restaurant's history back to the current owner's father. Among the details that piqued my curiosity was a passing mention of a younger brother who had also started his own braised duck place. That lined up with what my colleague told me when he first passed on the tip. So I set out to try it. If Ah Sang, despite moving to a new shop as recently as 2023, stands for the older, still-existing side of Cheras, then Mr Duck is playing for the other team, the newer, flashier, more air-conditioned Cheras. The restaurant is conveniently located on the ground floor of Wisma Aman Elite. — Picture by Ethan Lau The Guang Ming Daily story mentioned that the younger brother first set up in Taman Taynton View. He moved Mr Duck to Wisma Aman Elite, directly across from EkoCheras Mall, in December 2022. Ample basement parking is one of the perks of being in a commercial development like this, along with a steady supply of office workers. On a weekday afternoon, there were one or two big groups, with the rest made up of smaller duos and trios from nearby offices. The menu doesn't stray far from the expected: braised duck, chicken, pork, tofu and porridge. But it's geared toward both large sharing options and smaller, individual portions for solo diners. Plain, watery white porridge with braised pork ear/face, and the super sharp chilli sauce. — Picture by Ethan Lau I settled for a small portion each of braised duck (RM13), braised pork ear and face (RM8), and a large white porridge (RM2). It is tempting to do the obvious and compare the two, to subject you, dear reader, to the rigmarole of 'which brother does it better?' as if there is only one way to enjoy braised duck. I must resist that temptation, but only because the two are so clearly and distinctly different in style that any comparison would miss the point. They may make the same dish, may have learned from the same father, and are still only five minutes apart, but each has taken his braised duck in a different direction. The braised pork ear/face contains slices from both parts, contrasting soft fat and snappy cartilage. — Picture by Ethan Lau Both duck and pork are braised till tender, though the face, or more accurately, the cheek, is just slightly more luscious, while the ear is full of snappy cartilage. The real test, though, is in the braising stock, and Mr Duck favours a heavier hand with the spices. Clove is particularly distinct; it is the first thing you taste, and it lingers all the way through. That strong, sweet warmth is offset by a sharp, spicy chilli sauce, though on its own, the stock can be overwhelming for some. It is a flavour profile suited to those who prefer intensity and depth in their braised meats without the cloying weight of something more savoury, though you do have to like clove to really enjoy it. A small portion of braised duck at Mr Duck Teowchew Braised. — Picture by Ethan Lau Surprisingly, I found myself pouring the sauce into my plain, characteristically watery porridge, despite not thinking of myself as a clove fan. There is a balance to the stock, and Mr Duck walks that line well. In the end, trying Mr Duck only deepened my conviction that putting the brothers head to head does a disservice to both. Each has taken the same dish in a different direction, shaped by their own tastes and ideas of what braised duck should be. Rather than ask which is better, it is more rewarding to appreciate the variety they offer: two great takes on braised duck that coexist, each with its own character and loyal following. 鸭先生-潮州卤味 Mr Duck Teowchew Braised (since 1988) G-02, Wisma Aman Elite, Jalan Desa Aman 1, Taman Desa Aman, Kuala Lumpur Open Tuesday to Sunday, 11am-3.30pm, 5-8pm Tel: 012-236 6688 Facebook: Mr Duck Teowchew Braised * This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal. * Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems. * Follow Ethan Lau on Instagram @eatenlau for more musings on food and mildly self-deprecating attempts at humour.
