5 days ago
From The Land Of Tequila, Guadalajara's Bar Scene Shines Brighter Than Ever
Jalisco is the heart of tequila production in Mexico, and Guadalajara is its capital. Tequila Cazadores
Name a city known for its bar scene. If you answer with anything other than Mexico City, you likely haven't been paying attention. With a coterie of award-winning cocktail bars, and Handshake Speakeasy even earning this year's highest honor from The World's 50 Best Bars, it's the place to be for an inspired sip.
But what about the bar scene closer to the source of Mexico's most iconic homegrown spirits? In the heart of tequila country, just a short drive from the town of Tequila itself, Guadalajara has its roots in the rich tradition of agave, literally and figuratively. Now, its bar scene is booming, growing big and buzzier yet with a distinct identity that blends tradition with innovation all its own.
Historic Guadalajara, Mexico. Guadalajara Tourism
Though Guadalajara is one of Mexico's biggest metropolises, it has just a fraction of the inhabitants of sprawling Mexico City, but remains a cultural cornerstone with a country-wide impact. "Guadalajara is considered the 'most Mexican' city as it is the birthplace of Mexican icons like mariachi and tequila," says Gustavo Staufert, CEO of Guadalajara Tourism.
To drive just beyond the city limits of Guadalajara is to be surrounded by hillsides coated with the regal blue agave plants that offer such a rich bounty of now world-renowned spirits like tequila. Keep driving about an hour down the road and you'll hit the town of Tequila after which the country's most famous spirit is named. Here, visitors find the sprawling distilleries of big name brands like Jose Cuervo and Hornitos.
Even so, small-batch, high-quality tequila, mezcal and other agave-based liquors felt hard to find in Guadalajara.
"In terms of tequila brands, 10 years ago, you wouldn't find any good brands around... it was still considered very niche and something you really had to hunt for," says Freddy Andreasson, founder of El Gallo Altanero, the premier cocktail bar in Guadalajara. "The difference now is like night and day."
Guadalajara's award-winning cocktail bar, El Gallo Altanero. El Gallo Altanero Behind the Bar
An early champion of small-batch, local production over big name brands was Pare de Sufrir, a mezcalería dedicated to curating a collection of the world's best mezcals. Located in the heart of Guadalajara, this inspiring outlet has nearly 100 different types of locally-sourced mezcals to choose from.
Pare de Sufrir is now a famous after-hours spot for local bartenders and visitors alike, but its mission runs deeper than just facilitating a good time. It works in tandem with founder Pedro Jiménez's other beloved brainchild Mezonte, a non-profit mezcal producers' organization dedicated to preserving and promoting traditional mezcal culture while supporting local communities that rely on the craft.
Andreasson credits Pare de Sufrir with helping pave the way for El Gallo Altanero, now Guadalajara's most famous cocktail bar and number 48 on the list of The World's 50 Best Bars. Even with such award-winning mixology, it's the team's dedication to independent spirits that inspired it all and keeps them rooted even amidst such a spotlight.
"The bar really exists because we wanted to highlight these independent spirits on a wider scale," says Andreasson. "That wasn't as sexy as it is now, you end up with quite a singular type of crowd... So we thought a cocktail bar is, you know, a great sort of mix and the perfect way to get people in the door."
Now, to peruse the menu at El Gallo Altanero feels like picking up a bible dedicated to all things local liquors. Here, guests learn about lesser-known liquors that also derive from the agave, like sotol, raicilla, and pulque. It's a master class in Mexican spirits, met with a passion from Andreasson and his entire team to show off what they deeply love. Beginners mix with experts over a genuine love for the craft in a way that always feel authentic, and is always a good time.
Freddy Andreasson behind the bar at El Gallo Altanero. El Gallo Altanero Next Gen
The impact of elevating the profile of smaller, more local brands extends far beyond a single bar, affecting the city and region more broadly. "Guadalajara's bar scene has undergone dramatic changes in the last few years," says Guadalajara native Tania Oseguera, master tequilier at Tequila Cazadores, and one of the only female master tequiliers certified from the Mexican Tequila Academy.
"When it comes to tequila cocktails, in the past, most restaurants would only offer 'palomas,' 'charro-negros (tequila, lime and coke), and neat tequila with 'sangrita' as a chaser. Now, upscale restaurants offer a wide variety of cocktail creations that would have been unimaginable in the past."
Long-standing places are adapting to changing keep up with trends as new bars pop up across the city to meet growing demand. Three other Guadalajara bars, Pare de Sufrir included, made the most recent The World's 50 Best Discovery list, an extension of the traditional list of top spots that meet similarly high standards.
Among Guadalajara newcomers is Mecenas, which recently opened its doors in the buzzy Colonia Americana neighborhood. Here, mixologists experiment with a cocktail menu that features all homemade liquors, wines and spirits. On the dream team behind the project are Nick Kendall, founder of Mira Earth Studios in Mexico's Valle de Guadalupe wine region, and Jose Luis Hinostroza, the renowned Mexican chef responsible for Tulum's award-winning restaurant and bar, ARCA.
Tequila production calls on a long legacy, and the most rooted brands are dedicated to preserving it. Tequila Cazadores Rooted in Tradition
Amidst so much innovation, there's a unifying thread among the leaders in the industry: a commitment to staying rooted in the traditions that are so important to the region.
"As more people around the world embrace tequila, [we have] amazing opportunity to share the soul of our brand.... everything from where our tequila is made in the highlands of Jalisco and the artistry behind every bottle, to the passion that's been part of our story for many years," says Oseguera.
"We don't want to change anything," says Andreasson of innovation at El Gallo Altanero, "just continue improving our craft but keeping true to our mission to highlight these small batch producers. I think that's part of being authentic and certainly part of our success."
Because Guadalajara is much more than just a Mexico's second city, more than a copy-paste of the capital. It's been the beating heart of the development, growth and innovation of spirits in Mexico all along—even if others seem to just be starting to catch on.
